Some General Advice For Other Noobs Like Me, Growing in Organic Soil / Super Soil.

Always take what others say with a grain of salt, including also what i'm suggesting. Because it is often not the case.

But I want to offer some advice. Which I've found has helped me a lot the last several years. And that's to minimize using a calmag salt solution, instead of an organic alternative.
There's an organic chelation effect occurring in your soil, all the time, and it's continuously changing a little. Depends on the nutrient profile of the soil, but especially due to soil environment. One example is your watering cycle. Another is temperature, ph, aeration, water holding capacity, organic matter, etc etc. They all matter and they all make a difference.

Happens a lot that there's a calmag deficiency growing these plants. It's probably the most common deficiency growers see, next to nitrogen.
This is where I want to offer the advice to always err towards an amendment intended for organics first.
Calmag salt solution is already chelated and readily absorbed by the plants. It's virtually a calmag drip. There're often growers experiencing calmag problems and are told by their hydro store or friends, to give them calmag solution for a fix. But best it is, is a Band-Aid.
Organic soil growers are reliant on the microbes to break everything down into a usable form. And the water to dissolve it for the plants to absorb. This is where calmag solution, imvho, becomes virtually useless as a permanent fix.
For one the microbes can't break it down. Secondly being chelated, it has an immediate change in nutrient profile. Can be helpful as a quick fix, but make a problem even worse, if deficiency isn't the root cause. Lastly because it's chelated already then there's no slow release of calmag either. Meaning you still have to add some slow release amendment, or use calmag all the time. It also runs out in the waste.

Always rule out overwatering, lack of aeration / drainage, or overfert first. That's more than likely the cause.
Keep your amendments organic, for organics, as best you can. The soil and microbes will take care of the rest.

Hope it helps another fellow noob. Take care and grow on!

Aussieaceae said:

Always take what others say with a grain of salt, including also what i'm suggesting. Because it is often not the case.

But I want to offer some advice. Which I've found has helped me a lot the last several years. And that's to minimize using a calmag salt solution, instead of an organic alternative.
There's an organic chelation effect occurring in your soil, all the time, and it's continuously changing a little. Depends on the nutrient profile of the soil, but especially due to soil environment. One example is your watering cycle. Another is temperature, ph, aeration, water holding capacity, organic matter, etc etc. They all matter and they all make a difference.

Happens a lot that there's a calmag deficiency growing these plants. It's probably the most common deficiency growers see, next to nitrogen.
This is where I want to offer the advice to always err towards an amendment intended for organics first.
Calmag salt solution is already chelated and readily absorbed by the plants. It's virtually a calmag drip. There're often growers experiencing calmag problems and are told by their hydro store or friends, to give them calmag solution for a fix. But best it is, is a Band-Aid.
Organic soil growers are reliant on the microbes to break everything down into a usable form. And the water to dissolve it for the plants to absorb. This is where calmag solution, imvho, becomes virtually useless as a permanent fix.
For one the microbes can't break it down. Secondly being chelated, it has an immediate change in nutrient profile. Can be helpful as a quick fix, but make a problem even worse, if deficiency isn't the root cause. Lastly because it's chelated already then there's no slow release of calmag either. Meaning you still have to add some slow release amendment, or use calmag all the time. It also runs out in the waste.

Always rule out overwatering, lack of aeration / drainage, or overfert first. That's more than likely the cause.
Keep your amendments organic, for organics, as best you can. The soil and microbes will take care of the rest.

Hope it helps another fellow noob. Take care and grow on!

Click to expand...

What's the easiest way to get supersoil?
Is ffof or happy frog super soil

Dapper_Dillinger said:

What's the easiest way to get supersoil?
Is ffof or happy frog super soil

Click to expand...

No, but you can turn it into super soil.

PadawanWarrior said:

No, but you can turn it into super soil.

Click to expand...

How would I go about doing that? Any good threads or links to put me in the right direction? I'm looking for as close to water only as possible

Dapper_Dillinger said:

How would I go about doing that? Any good threads or links to put me in the right direction? I'm looking for as close to water only as possible

Click to expand...

There's some good stuff sticky'd in the Organics section. I think the name of one is ROLS.

But honestly, make a few mistakes and experiment a bit. You'll be able to tell what you need eventually by it's looks, feel and colour.
Having plenty of organic matter for the microbes + high water holding capacity + great aeration / drainage, are probably the 3 most important factors to a good, healthy soil.

I'm almost solely organic no-till. But you can also buy "supersoil", but it's really expensive. Better off making your own.

If I can recommend any resource for the general principles of organic gardening. Old school vegetable gardening books and websites are the best imo.

Figured I'd search a little and hunt down some information, which may help some understand the concept further.
It does go a little in depth but should be helpful to some.

.

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For people interested, you can actually feel the Humus in your soil. Especially when forming a bolus. It'll form a greasy layer on your hands.
Humus in a sense is alive! It is most often a clear indication of microbiological activity!

Some information about the importance and influences of soil pH. I've included an attachment as well.

Probably at it's most basic, you must have good aeration. Because the wetter your soil is, generally the less oxygen it contains. Oxygen is freed from the water molecules and eventually it leads to an abundance of hydrogen. Leading to an acidic, anaerobic soil.
So we must be cautious about how often we water (H2O) and have ample aeration / drainage. This is so important!

We must also be cautious about salts. Especially sodium and fertilizer salts. If the medium is too salty, then the plant can't uptake water, or nutrient nearly as efficiently. No matter how much they try.


One of the most common mistakes for growers, because it so easy to do, is a combination of over fert and over watering at the same time.
Thirsty because they're over ferted and the soil is salty. Plus locked out because the roots can't breath and the soil is turning anaerobic. Which may lead to a drop in pH, but more importantly lead to root disease and pests.

Potential Hydrogen (pH) is NOT to be underestimated. Especially in heavy, poorly aerated soils.

Some information for growers wanting to analyse their garden soil.
.
You want a loamy soil, because it contains heaps of Humus, plus great texture and fertility. ( I aim for a sandy loam)


I use a mortar and pestle + some distilled water. Then roll a bolus in my hands, about the size of a golf ball.
If you find you have silt / clay, check for dispersion. Basically soak a hard, dry lump of it in a dish of distilled water.
Dispersion is an indication of sodium levels in the soil. If dispersion is present you likely want to add gypsum to your soil. As well as more organic matter.

Apologies for anything I may have missed, or my grammar. I'll edit any mistakes I notice, or add anything I think is useful. Please mention if notice something, or want some further information. More than happy to help if I can.

Peace, much love, and grow on!

This post is a little out of context, but still very relevant to organic gardening.
Should be useful for other beginner organic growers to understand, why we choose the amendments we use. And why soil carbon, H2O, aeration, drainage, WHC, ph, texture and ample rich organic matter is so important.