seattlewiseguyz
Well-Known Member
so i woke up today and my little babey has discoloreation on the leafs, and yesterday i dound small webs so iam allkinda of fucked! some one please tell me what i need to do to save the smallplant, thanks
spider mights?!?!?!?!?
- Thread starter seattlewiseguyz
- Start date
seattlewiseguyz
Well-Known Member
i only have twoplants,,is there no way to save it?
eLLisD
Well-Known Member
This might help also....
THE MITE
Spider mites are not insects but are more closely related to spiders. These arachnids have four pairs of legs, no antennae and a single, oval body region. Most spider mites have the ability to produce a fine silk webbing. Spider mites are very tiny, being less than 1/50 inch (0.4mm) long when adults.
Female, Male, Larva
TYPES OF DAMAGE
Spider mites have tiny mouthparts modified for piercing individual plant cells and removing the contents. This results in tiny yellow or white speckles. When many of these feeding spots occur near each other, the foliage takes on a yellow or bronzed cast. Once the foliage of a plant becomes bronzed, it often drops prematurely.
Heavily infested plants may be discolored, stunted or even killed. Web producing spider mites may coat the foliage with the fine silk which collects dust and looks dirty.
LIFE CYCLES AND HABITS
Spider mite species seem to be warm weather or cool weather active pests. The twospotted, European red, honeylocust, and oak spider mites do best in dry, hot summer weather. The spruce and southern red spider mites do best in cool spring and fall weather.
Most spider mite activity peaks in warmer/drier gardens or climates. They can develop rapidly in these conditions, becoming full-grown in as little as a week after eggs hatch. After mating, mature females may produce a dozen eggs daily for a couple of weeks. The fast development rate and high egg production can lead to extremely rapid increases in mite populations.
All spider mites go through the same stages of development. Adult females usually lay eggs on their host plants. The eggs hatch in days to weeks into the first stage, called a larva. Larvae are round bodied and have only three pairs of legs. The larvae feed for a few days, seek a sheltered spot to rest and then molt into the first nymphal stage. The first nymph now has four pairs of legs. The first nymphs feed a few days, rest and molt into the second nymph. The second nymphs feed, rest and molt into the adult stage. The males are usually the size of the second nymph and have pointed abdomens. The females have rounded abdomens and are the largest mites present.
Most spider mites spend the winter in the egg stage but the twospotted spider mite overwinters as adult females resting in protected places. The fact that the eggs lay dormant is another big problem. you can have all of the lil buggers killed and the eggs hatch on down the road. That's why you find out later that multiple applications of solution/treatment are needed to completely rid yourself of the spider mite problem.
Control Strategies
Early detection of spider mites, before damage is noticed, is important. The tiny spider mites can be detected by taking a piece of white paper or cardboard and striking some plant foliage on it. The mites can be seen walking slowly on the paper. If 10 or more mites per sample are common, controls may be needed.
Option 1: Cultural Control - Syringing- Since rainy weather seems to knock off spider mites, using a forceful jet of water from a hose (syringing) can perform the same task. This technique also helps conserve natural predators. A regular syringing can keep spider mites under control, as well as remove the dust that collects on foliage and interferes with mite predators. Disruption of the webbing also may delay egg laying until new webbing is produced. Sometimes, small changes where mite-susceptible plants are located or how they are watered can greatly influence their susceptibility to spider mite damage.
Option 2: Cultural Control - Quarantine and Inspection - The twospotted spider mite is often introduced on infested bedding and house plants. Carefully inspect the lower leaf surface for any signs of mite activity. New plants should be quarantined from other plants until you are sure that no mites are present.
Option 3: Biological Control - Predators - There are numerous insects (lacewings and lady beetles) that prey on spider mites. However, the most commonly sold predators are other types of mites. Predatory mites (usually Phytoseiulus spp., Amblyseius spp. or Metaseiulus spp.) can be purchased and released onto infested plants. Be sure to check listings to determine which species is appropriate. Some species are host specific and each predator works better under different weather conditions. If predators are used, do not apply pesticides that will kill them.
Option 4: Chemical Control - "Soft Pesticides"- Most spider mites can be controlled with insecticidal oils and soaps. The oils, both horticultural oil and dormant oil, can be used. Neem oil is a commonly used, readily available product. Thre are many others. Horticultural oils can be used during the summer at the 1 to 2 percent rate. Higher rates of horticultural oil (3 to 4 percent) or dormant oil are useful for killing mite eggs and dormant adults in the fall and spring. The insecticidal soaps are useful in the warm season. Remember that mites are very tiny and soaps and oils work by contact only. Therefore, THOROUGH coverage of the plant is necessary for good control.
Good old, reliable garden-grade sulfur still appears to be the best control for spider mites, and is also an economical, effective fungicide for control of diseases at the same time. Sulfur can be purchased in powder or liquid form. I find the liquid more effective, but the limitations of spraying are often a problem as it cannot be sprayed when temperatures are very warm or very cool. Winds must be calm, and bright sun hours away. This can be overcome by spraying late in the evening or very early in the morning. The biggest drawback of the sulfur is the smell which can last for days.
Having said that, strains of spider mites resistant to pesticides frequently develop, making control difficult. Because most miticides do not affect eggs, a repeat application at an approximately 10- to 14-day interval is usually needed for control.
Option 5: Chemical Control - Miticides - Spider mites are usually not killed by regular insecticides, so be sure to check the pesticide label to see if "miticide" is present. Pesticides claiming "for mite suppression" are usually weak miticides and will not perform well.
Option 6: wawona's tilt- The breakdown and clean method- Having had a spider mite problem in 2 rooms, simultaneously, I feel that I have something to share. I highly suggest you find a way to control and minimize the problem and harvest what you can. After harvest, break down the room and clean EVERYTHING that was in there with bleach water, fog the room a couple times and then wipe the room down with the bleach water AGAIN. (We'll discuss the foggers in a bit) When I say clean EVERYTHING in the room, I mean clean EVERYTHING that has come in contact with those plants or that room. Fans, water jugs, duct work, containers, meters, etc....... It would be a great idea to put a fresh coat of paint on the walls and/or replace the wall covering.
So, how do you control the pest problem so you can salvage at least some harvest???
The first thing you gotta do is to keep the grow op clean. I mean spotless from here on out. Pick up all of those dead leaves and wipe those fans down at the least.
If you notice the problem at an early stage it is much easier to contain. Once the plants are more mature, and have lots of foliage for the mites to hide, it definately becomes more of a matter on control rather than eradication. It is much easier to get FULL COVERAGE on smaller plants. FULL COVERAGE is the key no matter what product you decide best suits your garden.
starting on the plants with a product calledSMC leaf wash. or a similar product. SMC Premium Quality Leaf Wash is a 100% organic blend of pure plant oil extracts. Used as a mist spray, SMC Leaf Wash helps to keep valuable plant leaves free of dust and and other airborne debris, insect eggs, soil, and other contaminants that can restrict a plant's leaves ability to function properly. This should be used at least three times 5-7 days apart. This product can be used even before you have a mite problem as a preventitive method. The leaves are uninhabitable for mites after this product is applied. Their slogan is, "a clean leaf is a healthy leaf."
these lil pests become immune to a single control product, if used continuosly by itself.
BTW, during this whole process, which could take up to a month, make sure that your plants are free from extra stress. Make sure they get plenty of fresh water and air and that the temps are not too hot.
THE MITE
Spider mites are not insects but are more closely related to spiders. These arachnids have four pairs of legs, no antennae and a single, oval body region. Most spider mites have the ability to produce a fine silk webbing. Spider mites are very tiny, being less than 1/50 inch (0.4mm) long when adults.
Female, Male, Larva
TYPES OF DAMAGE
Spider mites have tiny mouthparts modified for piercing individual plant cells and removing the contents. This results in tiny yellow or white speckles. When many of these feeding spots occur near each other, the foliage takes on a yellow or bronzed cast. Once the foliage of a plant becomes bronzed, it often drops prematurely.
Heavily infested plants may be discolored, stunted or even killed. Web producing spider mites may coat the foliage with the fine silk which collects dust and looks dirty.
LIFE CYCLES AND HABITS
Spider mite species seem to be warm weather or cool weather active pests. The twospotted, European red, honeylocust, and oak spider mites do best in dry, hot summer weather. The spruce and southern red spider mites do best in cool spring and fall weather.
Most spider mite activity peaks in warmer/drier gardens or climates. They can develop rapidly in these conditions, becoming full-grown in as little as a week after eggs hatch. After mating, mature females may produce a dozen eggs daily for a couple of weeks. The fast development rate and high egg production can lead to extremely rapid increases in mite populations.
All spider mites go through the same stages of development. Adult females usually lay eggs on their host plants. The eggs hatch in days to weeks into the first stage, called a larva. Larvae are round bodied and have only three pairs of legs. The larvae feed for a few days, seek a sheltered spot to rest and then molt into the first nymphal stage. The first nymph now has four pairs of legs. The first nymphs feed a few days, rest and molt into the second nymph. The second nymphs feed, rest and molt into the adult stage. The males are usually the size of the second nymph and have pointed abdomens. The females have rounded abdomens and are the largest mites present.
Most spider mites spend the winter in the egg stage but the twospotted spider mite overwinters as adult females resting in protected places. The fact that the eggs lay dormant is another big problem. you can have all of the lil buggers killed and the eggs hatch on down the road. That's why you find out later that multiple applications of solution/treatment are needed to completely rid yourself of the spider mite problem.
Control Strategies
Early detection of spider mites, before damage is noticed, is important. The tiny spider mites can be detected by taking a piece of white paper or cardboard and striking some plant foliage on it. The mites can be seen walking slowly on the paper. If 10 or more mites per sample are common, controls may be needed.
Option 1: Cultural Control - Syringing- Since rainy weather seems to knock off spider mites, using a forceful jet of water from a hose (syringing) can perform the same task. This technique also helps conserve natural predators. A regular syringing can keep spider mites under control, as well as remove the dust that collects on foliage and interferes with mite predators. Disruption of the webbing also may delay egg laying until new webbing is produced. Sometimes, small changes where mite-susceptible plants are located or how they are watered can greatly influence their susceptibility to spider mite damage.
Option 2: Cultural Control - Quarantine and Inspection - The twospotted spider mite is often introduced on infested bedding and house plants. Carefully inspect the lower leaf surface for any signs of mite activity. New plants should be quarantined from other plants until you are sure that no mites are present.
Option 3: Biological Control - Predators - There are numerous insects (lacewings and lady beetles) that prey on spider mites. However, the most commonly sold predators are other types of mites. Predatory mites (usually Phytoseiulus spp., Amblyseius spp. or Metaseiulus spp.) can be purchased and released onto infested plants. Be sure to check listings to determine which species is appropriate. Some species are host specific and each predator works better under different weather conditions. If predators are used, do not apply pesticides that will kill them.
Option 4: Chemical Control - "Soft Pesticides"- Most spider mites can be controlled with insecticidal oils and soaps. The oils, both horticultural oil and dormant oil, can be used. Neem oil is a commonly used, readily available product. Thre are many others. Horticultural oils can be used during the summer at the 1 to 2 percent rate. Higher rates of horticultural oil (3 to 4 percent) or dormant oil are useful for killing mite eggs and dormant adults in the fall and spring. The insecticidal soaps are useful in the warm season. Remember that mites are very tiny and soaps and oils work by contact only. Therefore, THOROUGH coverage of the plant is necessary for good control.
Good old, reliable garden-grade sulfur still appears to be the best control for spider mites, and is also an economical, effective fungicide for control of diseases at the same time. Sulfur can be purchased in powder or liquid form. I find the liquid more effective, but the limitations of spraying are often a problem as it cannot be sprayed when temperatures are very warm or very cool. Winds must be calm, and bright sun hours away. This can be overcome by spraying late in the evening or very early in the morning. The biggest drawback of the sulfur is the smell which can last for days.
Having said that, strains of spider mites resistant to pesticides frequently develop, making control difficult. Because most miticides do not affect eggs, a repeat application at an approximately 10- to 14-day interval is usually needed for control.
Option 5: Chemical Control - Miticides - Spider mites are usually not killed by regular insecticides, so be sure to check the pesticide label to see if "miticide" is present. Pesticides claiming "for mite suppression" are usually weak miticides and will not perform well.
Option 6: wawona's tilt- The breakdown and clean method- Having had a spider mite problem in 2 rooms, simultaneously, I feel that I have something to share. I highly suggest you find a way to control and minimize the problem and harvest what you can. After harvest, break down the room and clean EVERYTHING that was in there with bleach water, fog the room a couple times and then wipe the room down with the bleach water AGAIN. (We'll discuss the foggers in a bit) When I say clean EVERYTHING in the room, I mean clean EVERYTHING that has come in contact with those plants or that room. Fans, water jugs, duct work, containers, meters, etc....... It would be a great idea to put a fresh coat of paint on the walls and/or replace the wall covering.
So, how do you control the pest problem so you can salvage at least some harvest???
The first thing you gotta do is to keep the grow op clean. I mean spotless from here on out. Pick up all of those dead leaves and wipe those fans down at the least.
If you notice the problem at an early stage it is much easier to contain. Once the plants are more mature, and have lots of foliage for the mites to hide, it definately becomes more of a matter on control rather than eradication. It is much easier to get FULL COVERAGE on smaller plants. FULL COVERAGE is the key no matter what product you decide best suits your garden.
starting on the plants with a product calledSMC leaf wash. or a similar product. SMC Premium Quality Leaf Wash is a 100% organic blend of pure plant oil extracts. Used as a mist spray, SMC Leaf Wash helps to keep valuable plant leaves free of dust and and other airborne debris, insect eggs, soil, and other contaminants that can restrict a plant's leaves ability to function properly. This should be used at least three times 5-7 days apart. This product can be used even before you have a mite problem as a preventitive method. The leaves are uninhabitable for mites after this product is applied. Their slogan is, "a clean leaf is a healthy leaf."
these lil pests become immune to a single control product, if used continuosly by itself.
BTW, during this whole process, which could take up to a month, make sure that your plants are free from extra stress. Make sure they get plenty of fresh water and air and that the temps are not too hot.
seattlewiseguyz
Well-Known Member
Like allways guys! thank you kindly! iam hoping they dont kill it,,,,the plant i have going is my first and shes going strong. iam hoping to do well my first time out ya know
seattlewiseguyz
Well-Known Member
so hear this, after reading all that right, and doing a little hunting i found this stuff called ORGANOCIDE for bugs and mold. Organocide is an OMRI certified organic insecticide/fungicide ready to use spray. Kills 25 problem insects, 4 major diseases, and can be used safely around people, pets and the environment. Very effective on spider mites, aphids, thrips, whiteflies, and scale.
eLLisD
Well-Known Member
in the pictures above I have never had a leaf that looked that bad. i dont even know for sure if my plants got it that bad from the spider mites. Never noticed webs. Usually when I look under the leaves I dont see any. I mainly see them crawling on the buckets I have the plants in. And if I do see them I spray the plant all over with neem oil with a few drops of dish soap. Compared to a few days ago, I think the population has decreased, unless they have organized themselves into some secret-underground spider mite society!
seattlewiseguyz
Well-Known Member
nice! well i have a bottle of the orangacide on its way,,it had great reviews so we will se how it works,,it was only 13.95, so iam hoping its a good deal..
if it works ill let you know for sure
if it works ill let you know for sure
Nemsist221
Well-Known Member
some pesticides are harmful for cannibis, try using neem oil
seattlewiseguyz
Well-Known Member
naaaaa! orangacide was featured in hightimes, its all good. its not harmful to plants, kids, pets. and pramotes healthy roots.
seattlewiseguyz
Well-Known Member
it only comes from what i can fined in a windex size bottle. or elase ied send ya some
battosai
Well-Known Member
here is a trick. take a vacuum cleaner with a hose. take a bic ball point pen. now remove the guts from the pen so you only have a plastic stem. use duct tape and put the pen tube partially inside the vacuum hose. use the tape to make it air tight, so if it was turned on only air goes through the hollow pen, looks like this: [tip of hose]= <-- pen attachment. now you have pen point vacuuming, which u may carefully suck off all mites and webs. CAREFUL not to be vicious and suck off all your crystals too. make some garlic+cyanne pepper and mix it with water. mist this on your stocks and fan leaves to try to deter them from coming back.
note: ive only done this as a quick fix. a few more weeks of flowering, the mites came... worked great.
GOOD LUCK
ive also heard that taking dead insects of the kind u dont want to have on your plants and crushes them into water will work as a deterrent for thatspecific bug. maybe modify the apparatus above and put a super thin kief screen to catch the mites. mash and mix then spray them on (ive never tried it, and id be afraid of not mashing the eggs good enough)
note: ive only done this as a quick fix. a few more weeks of flowering, the mites came... worked great.
GOOD LUCK
ive also heard that taking dead insects of the kind u dont want to have on your plants and crushes them into water will work as a deterrent for thatspecific bug. maybe modify the apparatus above and put a super thin kief screen to catch the mites. mash and mix then spray them on (ive never tried it, and id be afraid of not mashing the eggs good enough)
rocknrollratfink
Active Member
i got these bastards on my buds. im a bit of a dirtbag and may just smoke them lol anyone know if it may hurt me? 
???????
jact55
Well-Known Member
i got the same thing as well. i am using what is called a "no pest strip" you just hang it in your room for like a week and it is suppose to kill all bugs. it is good for up to 900-1200 cu. ft. and works for 4 months. i have read that a week in the grow space will kill anything. so i am assuming it is some pretty toxic shit, but it isnt on your leaves. cost like 7 bucks at home depot. i just put it up yesterday so i cant say from personal experience that it works. but there is a good amount of people that say it does if you just search around the net. good luck.
also i have good things about azamax, so you might want to look into that.
also i have good things about azamax, so you might want to look into that.
Neem oil is mixed with water. I believe 1.5 oz per gallon with 1.5 oz of dish soap as a surfacant.