Spider mite infestation 24h

Discussion in 'Bugs' started by Samno, Dec 13, 2016.


    Samno Active Member

    IMAG1923.jpg IMAG1927.jpg Hi guys, just thought I would share this, the other day while inspecting my flowering room I found one of my clones out of 32 had the beginning signs of spider mites, I quickly removed the plant and inspected all the rest but luckily they did not show any signs, the next morning the plant was entirely covered, I've never seen this happen to such an extent in less then 24h!

    I sprayed the isolated plant with a canola oil and garlic combination and within a few days was looking good again but have not put it back into the may flowering room.

    In the first pic you really have to zoom in to see any signs of this but the second pic the day after is really impressive!
    MMJ Dreaming 99

    MMJ Dreaming 99 Well-Known Member

    I have used Canola with a (very little) soap. Canola with Bronners Peppermint soap. Bronners has lots of oils. Ivory dish soap instead of Dawn.

    Buy one bar of Fels Naptha at an detergent aisle at a grocery store of Wal Mart for $1.19. Get a $1 cheese grater at Dollar Tree. Grate about 1 to 1.5 inches in a quarter container. Add warm water. Let is sit. STir it up. Makes this slurry. Mix about 2 to 3 tablespoons with 1 gallon of water in a sprayer.


    You may want to spray - let it sit for an hour, turn on fans, come back 4 hours later before light come back on and spray with clear water.
    Chunky Stool likes this.

    SSHZ Well-Known Member

    Once they get to that point, you'll never fully get rid of them. The plants health is compromised, yield will be way off and it's probably not worth saving. The real question is how did you not notice it WAYYYYYYYYYYYYY before letting it get that bad?

    Forbid 4F is the only thing that worked for me, and I've tried everything on the market over a two year period. Probably spent $1000 total, and although some helped, I was unable to totally eliminate them in flowering- they'd just keep showing up around the 4th week in flowering. Until now that is after throwing everything out, pots, floor covering, etc. Sprayed the room down with Avid, and sprayed the plants once with Forbid 4F last in veg.
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2016
    MMJ Dreaming 99

    MMJ Dreaming 99 Well-Known Member

    The guy screwed up waiting too long but they can explode pretty fast, You really need to be checking leaves every day plus have a plan and the bug spray ready before anything happens.
    Coloradoclear and Bakersfield like this.

    SSHZ Well-Known Member

    Absolutely correct.....

    Bakersfield Well-Known Member

    My plants were hit hard with mites last summer, I used Pyrethrum TR to knock them down and then used azamax as directed.
    The little demons laughed at that.
    So I declared total war and used forbid 4f
    and now they are a distant memory.
    Afgan King, Samno and MMJ Dreaming 99 like this.

    SSHZ Well-Known Member

    Here's a website to buy various products to fight the borg......some are OK to use on pot plants, some are not so make sure you read everything to be sure. I just read a report regarding 3 of the most commonly used products: Avid, Floramite and Forbid 4F. The only product that was shown to be found neglegible after 2-3 months in drying was Forbid. Personally, I use Avid to wash everything down after the crop is finished, i.e. pots, floors and walls, light shields and ballasts, fans, etc. I use forbid on the plants directly.

    MMJ Dreaming 99 likes this.
    MMJ Dreaming 99

    MMJ Dreaming 99 Well-Known Member

    I am not sure I would use Forbid after 3 weeks in flower. It is systemic so it gets in the plant and mites run away. I think that lasts for about 3 to 4 weeks - essentially it is like shield as is Floramite.

    Forbid is a Bayer Chemical product and they make a version for palm trees and other plants for white flies which are big in Florida. White flies are kind of like spider mites. They get under the leaves of palm trees and some other trees and bushes. They suck the juice out like mites. They excrete this black goo that can get on your house, pool area, car, driveway and it is like tar.
    The Bayer product you sprinkle around the base of the tree. It sucks it up and the white flies go elsewhere.

    If you spray Forbid, Floramite and probably Avid - wear gloves, long sleeve shirts and pants plus a respirator and shield or glasses. After spraying wash you clothes and take a shower. It is strong stuff.
    Bakersfield likes this.

    SSHZ Well-Known Member

    Forbid is not systemic..........better check your facts. It is translaminar, which means it will pass from the top of leaves to the bottom of them. Systemic is when the chemicals will pass thru the vascular system (relating to or denoting the plant tissues (xylem and phloem) that conduct water, sap, and nutrients in flowering plants, ferns, and their relatives)- normally starting in the roots and passing thru the plant. Forbid will be effective approx. 6-6 1/2 weeks. Mites don't run away........LOL. They suck the vascular liquid (I guess sap) from the leaves and the Spiromesifen, the main ingredient, blocks their fat synthesis so the mites dry out and die.

    Please don't post unless you check your facts and know what you're talking about......

    SSHZ Well-Known Member

    Didn't mean to sound like a dick, MMJ.....I know you're trying to help too.
    MMJ Dreaming 99 likes this.

    whitebb2727 Well-Known Member

    That is bad. Not the beginning. You had to ignore it.

    I use spinosad. It is safe and effective. A few foliar treatments and add it to your water a few times for systemic.

    Samno and MMJ Dreaming 99 like this.
    MMJ Dreaming 99

    MMJ Dreaming 99 Well-Known Member

    No problem bro. Great information. Expert info sure beats people telling desparate growers to go buy ladybugs, which do not work on mites.

    It is good to know that it is effective for that long and can get people through flower. Do you ever do any dunking or washing after cutting down? I know Jorge Cervantes says t is okay to dunk with some 5% hydrogen peroxide in a plastic tub of water to get rid of any PM but some folks say that washed away trichomes and frostiness.

    I am curious - how does the Forbid's Spiromesifen stay on the leaves (top and bottom) if it does not become absorbed into the plant? I assume it gets into the leaves but not in the main vascular system of the plant?

    Also when spraying - can someone just drench the tops spraying with Forbid versus diligently spraying under the leaves which takes more time? I ask because even with long sleeves and a respirator - I want to get the hell out of the room as fast as possible.

    I made the mistake of spraying once without a respirator and hopefully it will not cause long term damage.
    Bakersfield likes this.

    SSHZ Well-Known Member

    I don't dunk, namely because my issues show up in flowering and the plants are too large to consider moving and turning up side down........for PM, there are things that are available (look up Flying Skull- a company out there) for something effective.

    Forbid doesn't "stay on the leaves"- it is absorbed by the leaves but does not travel throughout the plant. I add a surfactant to the Forbid mix made by Southern AG which increases coverage and penetration. It's cheap and works well. I found without it, the forbid does not stay on the tips of the leaves (it rolls off) and that's where the mites tend to end up. By using it, it increases the spreadability.

    It's best to spray the whole plant down, top to bottom- not just the leaves. I usually have 24 plants in my room, and I'll use at least a gallon of spray, sometimes more to be most effective. Just cover up well, wear gloves, goggles, long sleeve shirts and pants, socks and a respirator and you'll be fine. Take off everything when finished and wash it, take a shower to be sure and you'll be fine.

    Remember, miss one mite and they'll be back so spray the shit out of the room. I use forbid at .6ml per gallon right before flowering. I sometimes hit them again in about 2 weeks just before budding begins.
    MMJ Dreaming 99 and Bakersfield like this.

    SSHZ Well-Known Member

    Also know that dunking plants also adds moisture to the plants and can increase the chances of getting PM.......I would dunk early in the morning to give plants a chance to dry off through out the day in the warmth of the lights......and of course a fan blowing all day and night.

    Flying Skull's "Nuke Em", a mite product some people use also does a great job on PM. If you go to their web site, there is a discount coupon for 1st time buyers. I found Nuke Em a lot more effective against PM than mites......it never totally got all the mites, although i saw some temporary improvement.
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2016
    MMJ Dreaming 99 likes this.

    CaliSmokes Well-Known Member

    Fire, burn it with fire.
    We Can Make Sandwiches

    We Can Make Sandwiches Well-Known Member

    holy fucking shit at the second pic..wrap it in a garbage bag and incinerate it
    MMJ Dreaming 99 likes this.

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