Super-Cropping 09 - You Can Too!

Howdy, fellow green thumbs! After a few years I have to decided to jump back on the Cannabis Forums so see if i can share some of the knowledge i have gained over the years! About five years back I was a member of a certain online community of cultivators, whose demise by the hand of the Canadian and U.S. enforcement agencies left me skeptical of putting this sort of information online for all to see. For the moment it appears the tide is turning in our favor. Though I would strongly advise discretion when posting personal information and pictures.



Here on the 45th Latitude, I have taken to a practice in which each and every one of your plant's are cultivated to maximum potential in relation to certain environmental factors. Light, soil fertilization, soil permeability and drainage, as well as season length, and functionality of seed genetics are all tweaked to 110%. If done correctly and with dedication this technique produces rapid growth, very large yields, and generally high potency grass.

First one must consider how much weight one desires. For hypothetical purposes we will keep our experimental goal at: 1 pound = 1 plant.

So with that in mind; 1 plant = 1 pound, one might wonder: "How big is a pounder plant?" BIG. REALLY BIG. Generally 8- 12 feet tall. To get this big, a plant requires a hole no smaller than 1 cubic yard, at least 10 hours of direct intense sunlight a day, and heavy feedings. More importantly, to get this big most seeds need to be germinated as early as February. So they are about 2-3 feet tall when transplanted outside into their permanent environments. This way the plant is already in its vigorous stage of vegetative growth early in the Summer. When most are plants small and fragile, our plant is strong and able to fully utilize the intense summer sun.

PART 1: Light = Location
Without question the most crucial factor for growth with any plant is light. In an controlled indoor climate as much as 18 hours of intense light can be utilized by the Cannabis plant per day. That being said most outdoor growers will be unable to procure a location that provides more than 15 hours of light a day, unless they are lo lucky as to have a south facing slope at their disposal
I like to plant on valley floors near brooks or streams, where the soil is fertile and undergrowth is dense, perfect for hiding a plant roughly the size of a Christmas tree.. Its nice planting on the edge a stream for several reasons. First is the fact that if you travel to your plant via a stream no trail or sign is created that may draw in curious individuals. Second, an abundance of water allows you to never worry about watering your plant. If the soil is "soft" and your plants roots can penetrate deep enough you wont have to water your plant once the whole summer. Lastly, as water flows out of the hills and through the pastures it carries with it nutrients that leech out into the major water basins. This is where the most plant life exists. And of course the more plants in an area the more rich and healthy the ecosystem is, providing ideal camouflage, and ample sources of Nitrogen, Phosphate, and Potash.

I will have to continue with this tomorrow as the sun is rising and and am falling asleep at the keyboard.


-TH

good info...keep it coming

i wanna hear every detail on super-cropping ,no matter how mundane, im all ears!

me too! let's get into the nitty-gritty of it all. and are you referring to "super-cropping" the technique of pinching and twisting a branch to break down the innards with the idea of it growing back even stronger, similar to the human body and muscles?

Personally the Ideal location for me is a south facing slope near or on a stream, to provide maximum resources for your vigorous little plant.

So now that we know that Light and Location are you #1 priority when it comes to making your outdoor patch, we'll move onto what we want for soil and enriching ingredients, in this cubic yard hole of ours.

PART 2: Soil Fertilization

Since we're green thumbs here and we use our noodles when we grow our beloved herb, we have already made this step easy. Most stream areas have fairly permeable soil; meaning that the fine Cannabis roots can penetrate without too much difficulty. Also since we are on a valley floor the soil we are working with will be rich so little supplemental fertilizers will be necessary. Usually I will add few shovels full of chicken manure to the hole and full it with the existing soil (If you want to go all out use 1:1 ratios of sheep/horse/cow manure to the natural occurring soil and your plants will get HUGE!) They key element for vigorous vegetative growth (leaves, stems, etc.) is Nitrogen. This is by far the most important nutrient your plant needs and it is found in all sorts of organic materials. Some would include: horse, cow sheep, pig, manures all have good quantities of nitrogen. Poultry droppings have more nitrogen than these others and must be applied with care or it will burn your plants it is so acidic. Potash aka potassium will promote a healthy stem and help keep the plant safe from disease. Phosphate is necessary in substantial amounts during flowering to promote heavy yields. other elements are also essential for all plant growth. Calcium sometimes considered the 4th "Macro Nutrient" is very important to your plants health.

I have heard stories from my fathers old hippie buddies, about guys planting a few seeds in their compost piles (think a truck load of manure/ compost/ organics with a couple seeds planted around it) and growing monster tree's. This is the idea behind Super Cropping, MAXIMIZE your conditions.

treehopper said:

Personally the Ideal location for me is a south facing slope near or on a stream, to provide maximum resources for your vigorous little plant.

So now that we know that Light and Location are you #1 priority when it comes to making your outdoor patch, we'll move onto what we want for soil and enriching ingredients, in this cubic yard hole of ours.

PART 2: Soil Fertilization

Since we're green thumbs here and we use our noodles when we grow our beloved herb, we have already made this step easy. Most stream areas have fairly permeable soil; meaning that the fine Cannabis roots can penetrate without too much difficulty. Also since we are on a valley floor the soil we are working with will be rich so little supplemental fertilizers will be necessary. Usually I will add few shovels full of chicken manure to the hole and full it with the existing soil (If you want to go all out use 1:1 ratios of sheep/horse/cow manure to the natural occurring soil and your plants will get HUGE!) They key element for vigorous vegetative growth (leaves, stems, etc.) is Nitrogen. This is by far the most important nutrient your plant needs and it is found in all sorts of organic materials. Some would include: horse, cow sheep, pig, manures all have good quantities of nitrogen. Poultry droppings have more nitrogen than these others and must be applied with care or it will burn your plants it is so acidic. Potash aka potassium will promote a healthy stem and help keep the plant safe from disease. Phosphate is necessary in substantial amounts during flowering to promote heavy yields. other elements are also essential for all plant growth. Calcium sometimes considered the 4th "Macro Nutrient" is very important to your plants health.

I have heard stories from my fathers old hippie buddies, about guys planting a few seeds in their compost piles (think a truck load of manure/ compost/ organics with a couple seeds planted around it) and growing monster tree's. This is the idea behind Super Cropping, MAXIMIZE your conditions.

Click to expand...

subscribed im all ears!!

"me too! let's get into the nitty-gritty of it all. and are you referring to "super-cropping" the technique of pinching and twisting a branch to break down the innards with the idea of it growing back even stronger, similar to the human body and muscles?"

Perhaps there is another technique called super cropping that I'm am unaware of.. Sounds like your talking about training the plant. There are all kinds of ways of training your plant to increase yields but I'm trying to explain the best way to unsure that the maximum size of your strain is reached.

treehopper said:

"me too! let's get into the nitty-gritty of it all. and are you referring to "super-cropping" the technique of pinching and twisting a branch to break down the innards with the idea of it growing back even stronger, similar to the human body and muscles?"

Perhaps there is another technique called super cropping that I'm am unaware of.. Sounds like your talking about training the plant. There are all kinds of ways of training your plant to increase yields but I'm trying to explain the best way to unsure that the maximum size of your strain is reached.

Click to expand...

if you read down to the 7th picture titled "I supercrop to increase yields"
https://www.rollitup.org/view.php?pg=faq&cmd=article&id=383

could see how it'd work

notoriousb said:

if you read down to the 7th picture titled "I supercrop to increase yields"
https://www.rollitup.org/view.php?pg=faq&cmd=article&id=383

could see how it'd work

Click to expand...

Regarding notorioususb's comment, I see what you are talking about now and I was unaware that it also was called super cropping. "Crop" can mean a field of corn, but it also refer to the technique of trimming and pruning branches.

For the sake of clarity, I'm going to stop using the term "Super-Cropping" and start anew with Mirco-climate Potential Maximization" or "MPM" since it appears that the terminology used prior has already been branded.

I apologize for being such a chuckle-head!

wow good stuff man , respect

One Dude on here took his 5 to 6'ft. Ladies, planted them in ground, at about a 30 degree angle.... set up wire fence above it, spred all the branches out, left & right, as far as possible, & tired (trained) them off. The end result was every branch was a top cola. Add a little super cropping & topping, well shit, how can it get any better?

South Texas said:

One Dude on here took his 5 to 6'ft. Ladies, planted them in ground, at about a 30 degree angle.... set up wire fence above it, spred all the branches out, left & right, as far as possible, & tired (trained) them off. The end result was every branch was a top cola. Add a little super cropping & topping, well shit, how can it get any better?

Click to expand...

That is a superb technique. Sounds like Screen of Green only outdoors.
i wonder how long it grew outdoors, and what month it was transplanted?



I just may try using this method, though it will prove difficult to camouflage such a plant..

The article is here somewhere. But with the explination & the pics, the Dude had planned way ahead. Indoor for about 3 months, then out when the daylight hours reached at least 13 per day... all summer, flowering around Aug. Harvest, Oct. or Nov. Depending on the first freeze, etc. This method could very well double the normal yield of a normal Monster.

im drooling.. could to send me a PM with the URL of this thread?

PART 2 (continued) Soil permeability and soil drainage:

Most people when they think of a Cannabis plant they think on stinky, sticky succulent colas (a long bud flowering bud). Most do not consider what goes on under the soil beyond providing the plant water and fertilizers. There is howver just as much action going on under ground as there is above it. Probably more. Microbes, bacteria, and fungi go to work breaking down organic materials into the elements required by all plants to grow.

Nitrogen - An over abundance of nitrogen can delay flowering while a deficiency can reduce yield.

Phosphorus - is necessary for almost all aspects of plant growth and is essential for flower and fruit formation.

Potassium is necessary for the formation of sugars, starches, carbohydrates, protein synthesis and cell division in roots and other parts of the plant.

Sulfur - is a structural component and is required for the production of chlorophyll.

Magnesium - is necessary for seed germination and the production of carbohydrates, sugars etc.

Calcium - is a structural component of cell walls and is necessary for cell growth and division.

Iron - is essential for the young growing plants and is necessary for many enzyme functions.

Manganese - is involved in plant enzyme activity for photosynthesis, respiration, and nitrogen metabolism. In highly acid soils an over abundance of iron can result in toxicity.

Boron - is necessary for cell wall formation, membrane integrity and calcium uptake. The functions affected by boron include flowering, pollen germination, fruiting, cell division, water relationships and the movement of hormones.

Zinc - is essential to carbohydrate metabolism, protein synthesis and stem growth. Zinc deficiency may lead to iron deficiency. Lowering soil pH can result in an over abundance of zinc.

Copper - is concentrated in roots of plants and plays a part in nitrogen metabolism. An over abundance of copper can cause toxicity.

Molybdenum - is a structural component of the enzyme that reduces nitrates to ammonia. Without it, the synthesis of proteins is blocked and plant growth ceases.

Chlorine - is involved in osmosis, the ionic balance necessary for plants to take up mineral elements and in photosynthesis.

Nickel - is an essential trace element for plants. It is required to break down urea to liberate the nitrogen into a usable form for plants. Nickel is required for iron absorption. Seeds need nickel in order to germinate.

Sodium is involved in water movement and ionic balance in plants.

Cobalt is required for nitrogen fixation in legumes and in the root nodules of non-legumes. The demand for cobalt is much higher for nitrogen fixation than for ammonium nutrition.

Silicon is found as a component of cell walls. Plants with supplies of soluble silicon produce stronger and tougher cell walls.


Root penetration is essential for your plant to grow larger. You can assume the size of the root network is about the same size that the plant above ground. Sand, silt, gravel, peat, loam, and other fine to granual sized mediums work great for fine cannabis roots.
Drainage isnt usually an issue outdoors unluss you growing in clay. If yop do have a lot of clay in the soil and little topsoil, is good to dig your hole a little deeper and put some rock and gravel in the bottom. Roots require air in the soil to survive, if water collects around the roots for too long they will rot and your plant will die.

Your best bet is a 3x3x3 foot hole with a pile of compost of top.

I don't know where it's at, or the title. Probably a new Thread, in the outdoor or Advanced setion. I read it about 2 months ago, maybe 3.

Haha well thanks for looking, and I wasn't trying to steal your thread away and start talking about my topic, just wanted some clarification. Appreciate all this wisdom you're passing, though.
please, keep it up

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