Temps With 1500ppm Co2??

boston george 54

Well-Known Member
never had a problem with that. set my controller on 1500 and temps at 76 they love it. so it would be benefical to bump the temp up a bit? how about around 80?
i am by far no expert so take what i say whith a grain of salt

from my RESERCH plants preform better at higher temps when co2 is injected
reason is the plants increases their respiration, and allows them to use more co2

Standard growing conditions typically include concentrations of CO2 at 300-500 ppm, temperatures between 65-80°F, and relatively low humidity (20-40% rH). Studies have shown optimal growth and yields at 90-95°F, 1,500 ppm CO2, 45-50% relative humidity, 7,500-10,000 lumens/square foot of light, and vigorous air movement both above and below the canopy.
CO2 enrichment under 80°F, under 7500 lumens/sf, or above 50% humidity is not recommended because plants will not be conducting photosynthesis quickly enough to benefit from the enrichment.

quoted from this thred titled Everything you ever need to know about co2 (LOL)
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=114590
 

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
I don't see why they'd be any more beneficial at rooting stage.. I can't find any technical data on that though at all.. Just that its expensive, haven't even seen other write-ups mention organic compunds.. Can you post any/all details that you have on it??
 

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
i dont have much technical data on it other than trial and error in the past..

i have used enzyme and algae products in hydro systems throughout entire grows and never really noticed a difference other than the cleanliness of the tanks..

however when rooting clones and establishing a root mass i feel like the organic compounds in algae combined with live microbes like enzymes help speed up the root development process.. i feel like it is a more mild and easy to digest form of nutrient which allows the plant to use the nutes better with a decreased root mass...again i have no technical data to prove it but im sure i can find some if ya want LOL

i think of it kinda like baby food.. when you have a little kid who is getting older, sure you could give them solid foods that are finely chopped up and what not, but its harder for them to eat, harder to digest, and overall not great for the baby..

however when you give them baby food that is in a much milder, and easy to digest form, the kid will eat better, have less digestive problems, and be overall in better health..

but once the kid grows up, it doesnt really matter what they eat, because they have the tools to break down the food and turn it into energy... as long as they are eating a good diet and getting proper nutrients, they will be healthy whether they eat creamed chicken, or chicken breast LOL

i donno sounds kinda elementary but it makes sense to me, and again i have never really noticed a great benefit of using enzymes and having beneficial microbes in the root mass in a hydro system.. as long as the roots are clean and sterile, and they have all the food they need
 

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
Can't comment on the results, but most of the explaination behind that is misconceived.. Organics provide exactly the same macro nutrient compound when they break down.. Things like ammonia, nitrates, phosphates, and all the other salts organic nazi's always say they wouldn't touch with a 10' pole.. That being said, they also form other things not found in salt fertilizers, some, but not many of these things are directly usable by the plants, its mainly the soil microbes that thrive on them, and then they turn around and produce more ionic compounds for the plants.. (The only compounds that can be taken up through roots.. Water is polar, like dissolves like applies here..)
Your baby food analogy is kind of ass backwards.. Salts are more like babyfood than more complex organic stuff.. That being said, theres that adage 'less is more', no perhaps you've accidentally poisoned them with other products in the past if you've determined a need for 'baby-food'..
My primary purpose for rooting gels is to seal up the cut, and avoid embolisms in the stem, although IBA can't hurt.. I really haven't ever noticed a giant difference in side by side tests with/without.. IMO, the best way to give them what they need to root, is to feed the mother a bit of high P fertilizer a day or so before taking cuts.. this puts the nutes roots need in the cutting itself, so it can cannibalize what it needs..
I really wish I could find an msds or the like on that product.. Given the price, one would hope there is something rare/beautiful in there, but think of how rich you could get if you can pull off the psychosomatic effect simply by putting a giant price tag on a common concoction..:)
Going out on a limb, hormones and amino acids etc are obviously organic, and some of those are alot more effective than others.. A product that expensive really deserves a side-by-side done by somebody who typically gets uniform results each and every time..
If you've got algae growth in your rooting medium that early that can be a problem.. A growing algae colony consumes far more nutrients than it would yield even if you had every beastie needed to break it down in there.. Before you have roots, the cuttings are at its mercy, and it isn't very merciful at all.. Its a competitor, not a friend in this game! If you can keep light off your rooting medium you won't regret it..
 

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
alright bro you obviously got me all fucked up so im gonna break it down for you

first of all to clarify, when i say algae products or compounds, im not talking about the shitty green stuff that grows on your medium when you dont block it from the light properly. what i am talking about is organic compounds that are derived from items such as seaweed and kelp, and bio stimulants that are found in other beneficial algaes.. because remember, seaweed, kelp, etc. are all different forms of algae. these are organic compounds that have weak trace elements that are more easily absorbed by plants with developing roots, and have beneficial microbes that aide in the breakdown, and absorbtion of said materials. this is why they are good for clones and seedling because it is essentially a weak organic nute solution which will help push the plants along into development and reduce the stressing of rooting.

Can't comment on the results, but most of the explaination behind that is misconceived.. Organics provide exactly the same macro nutrient compound when they break down.. Things like ammonia, nitrates, phosphates, and all the other salts organic nazi's always say they wouldn't touch with a 10' pole..
exactly, thats why i was saying that having beneficial microbes in soil is important because they break down elements into a usable form of nutrient for the roots to absorb... its basically what a chemical nute company does when they chelate their products... they break it down into smaller more absorbable forms. the companies do it so the microbes dont have to

That being said, they also form other things not found in salt fertilizers, some, but not many of these things are directly usable by the plants, its mainly the soil microbes that thrive on them, and then they turn around and produce more ionic compounds for the plants.. (The only compounds that can be taken up through roots.. Water is polar, like dissolves like applies here..)
microbes in the soil do not directly feed anything to the roots. they break down the compounds into usable forms so that the roots can uptake the nutrients. the enzymes break down and dissolve dead used organic compounds.. if microbes fed the roots directly, you would see much more usage of them in hydroponics, as well as greater yields. again because chemical fertilizers are already broken down into usable forms, the microbes are not needed.

Your baby food analogy is kind of ass backwards.. Salts are more like babyfood than more complex organic stuff.. That being said, theres that adage 'less is more', no perhaps you've accidentally poisoned them with other products in the past if you've determined a need for 'baby-food'..
actually its not ass backwards, because if you break down what i was saying in my last post, the organic compounds ( seaweed, algaes, kelp) with beneficial microbes in root stimulants are used to help the roots grow with less stress that a highly concentrated chemical fertilizer would otherwise entail. that is why they are used, and that is why they work. i dont know if you follow my grows, but if you do you will see i know what im doing. i dont poison my plants and apply a band aid or feel a need for snake oil.. i have compared and contrasted different methods, and it is clear that a plant given a beneficial stimulant when rooting will grow better roots faster, and in turn grow bigger faster than without them. later in the growth cycle they will grow at the same speeds but it does provide an initial boost.. products like rhizotonic and roots excelerator are expensive for a reason. they work

My primary purpose for rooting gels is to seal up the cut, and avoid embolisms in the stem, although IBA can't hurt.. I really haven't ever noticed a giant difference in side by side tests with/without..
you are talking about rooting hormones, i am talking about rooting stimulants.. all rooting hormones do is trigger the plant to produce roots maybe a day sooner, and seal the cutting from oxygen exposure in the stem as you said

IMO, the best way to give them what they need to root, is to feed the mother a bit of high P fertilizer a day or so before taking cuts.. this puts the nutes roots need in the cutting itself, so it can cannibalize what it needs..
I really wish I could find an msds or the like on that product.. Given the price, one would hope there is something rare/beautiful in there, but think of how rich you could get if you can pull off the psychosomatic effect simply by putting a giant price tag on a common concoction..:)
i agree, but again, you are comparing apples, whilst i am comparing oranges :-P

Going out on a limb, hormones and amino acids etc are obviously organic, and some of those are alot more effective than others.. A product that expensive really deserves a side-by-side done by somebody who typically gets uniform results each and every time..
right.. well a little background info on me, i have been growing personally for 4 years and been exposed to it over 8.. i dont claim to know everything but i learned from some of the best i have ever met.. granted the only time i have documented my grows is since i moved to california, and built this crazy vert setup.. but i can assure you that when i used to grow with my ebb and flow tables, i got consistant results each and every time, and had a lot more space to work with. i have tested various methods and products, and i know what works and i know what doesnt.


If you've got algae growth in your rooting medium that early that can be a problem.. A growing algae colony consumes far more nutrients than it would yield even if you had every beastie needed to break it down in there.. Before you have roots, the cuttings are at its mercy, and it isn't very merciful at all.. Its a competitor, not a friend in this game! If you can keep light off your rooting medium you won't regret it..
again, i dont have algae growth on my mediums, even though i wouldnt particularly mind it.. i have had it when i first started with no ill effects other than when it started to break down. the algae i speak of is algae products and derivitives..
 

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
i agree, but again, you are comparing apples, whilst i am comparing oranges
Not surprising since you were talking about ocean richness, and I was talking about green gunk..:)
I knew I was droning through some you had to know.. I did think you meant algae colonies though sorry.. Ppl use plain kelp based fertilizers with cuts all the time.. I did a few times, but never really noticed much difference than with hormone, or bareback.. Definately didn't hurt anything though.. I really wish it was possible to confirm if this is substantially more, but it does seem to sell..
I became unsure of your know-how when I mistook you to mean you like gungy RW for cuts..:) Pretty much the whole debate gets nulled with that clarified.. Sorry for making you read through that, hopefully somebody learns something from it.. And in the future I'll already know that your knowledge matches your forum rep..
 

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
Not surprising since you were talking about ocean richness, and I was talking about green gunk..:)
I knew I was droning through some you had to know.. I did think you meant algae colonies though sorry.. Ppl use plain kelp based fertilizers with cuts all the time.. I did a few times, but never really noticed much difference than with hormone, or bareback.. Definately didn't hurt anything though.. I really wish it was possible to confirm if this is substantially more, but it does seem to sell..
I became unsure of your know-how when I mistook you to mean you like gungy RW for cuts..:) Pretty much the whole debate gets nulled with that clarified.. Sorry for making you read through that, hopefully somebody learns something from it.. And in the future I'll already know that your knowledge matches your forum rep..
its all good man i had a feeling wer were on different pages which is why i wanted to clarify what i was saying:mrgreen:

that being said, im going to stop using the root stimulator right before flowering, and then ill pump up the co2 starting day 1 and use some h2o2..

i did find a used aquarium chiller for 300 bux i might have to pick up.. or just make a DIY for about 50.. havent decided lol

i have read an alarming amount of journals with co2 enrichment and it seems that some people dont even use co2 for the first 3 weeks or so :confused: they say it increases stretching? they only use it at the end to supposedly pump up flower growth..

this confuses me because from what i understand, using it in early flowering (weeks 1-4) helps it grow bigger and more vigorous, with more budsites, helps pump up the flowers a bit in weeks 4-6 but then is far less effective from weeks 7-8 because the plants are ripenining (and in some cases can lower potency from increased co2 levles)

can anyone shed some light on why people do this?
 

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
I wish CO2 guidelines to perfection were alot clearer too.. I always wondered how psychosomatic some observations are since CO2 can get expensive, and it would be alot easier to justify the cost when you're looking at pretty little pistils:)..
My CO2 experience is kind of ghetto old school.. I've always been a big fermenter/distiller, so I've always had them in the same room when I grew.. (I'm not talking pop bottles, some of my stills are 20Gallons+, so I do up to 60Gallons at a time, and fairly often/constantly..) Merely working on the principle that symbiotic relationships are good..
I'm leaning more towards your philosophy though.. How many times has it been said here that to get a good yield your plants need to be as good as they can be both above and below ground, before you flip to 12/12.. Logic dictates that that extends beyond the flipping date too.. Sure its pointless in vegging since you can trade growth rate for extra time.. But the coutdown to D-Day starts right on day one 12/12, so growth rate is vital from that point on until the point where senescence starts setting in..
CO2 does interact with ethylene activity though (ethylene does promote shoot growth), so those claims are backed by theory too.. I've come across experiments on other crop types that are quite interesting..
Still, we've come a long way in understanding how to control hormonal responses in plants.. I guess we would need a way to control auxins acceptably during 12/12 if that is a serious effect worthy of combatting..
Here are a couple links..
http://www.plant-hormones.info/ethylene.htm
http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/picrender.fcgi?artid=425994&blobtype=pdf
 

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
ya i mean most of what we experience with co2 is theory considering that we dont have lab grade settings in order to stabilize every part of the atmospheric conditions, and have credible side by side comparisons... everyone has different systems and surroundings so who knows what the truth is..

my theory is that ok, if a plant uses co2 to transpire, and co2 obviously promotes vigorous and enhanced growth, then it would seem that more co2 and better respiration would allow the plant to grow bigger faster, with more shoots and bud sites. I think that the theory of the stretching is that it grows so fast it seems to be stretching more, and the increased temps may have a bit to do with it, but again i think that it makes more bud sites, and in the end enhances yield..

it probably also enhances the size of buds, because when they are producing flowers, they again need high amounts of co2 to do so.. i think the only time that it would not be neccissary would be the last week or so when the trics are ripening and growth has pretty much stopped..

the way i think of it is like a runner.. in the mountains, with less oxygen, a runner cannot run as far, or as fast, as if he was running on the beach, where there is more available oxygen, and he can in turn make the most of his energy..

in the end if i paid all this money for all this equip i might as well bang it out and expirament with it later LOL im gonna run it for 7 of the 8 weeks, and the final week drop the temps and the co2 to help the trics ripen...

and on another note, i was rather surprised today.. i let my temp go up into the low 80s to see what the res temp would be like.. so i went and got a digital thermometer for the res, and with 83 degrees ambient air, my res stays about 72.. so i imagine with 10 more degrees ambient air, ill be around 77.. and with some aeration and a small DIY water chiller should be able to bring it down to about 70 which will be nice..

man i cant wait, im stoked.. starting week 2 of veg in the system and the kiddos are already sucking down 800ppms (nutes) with ease.. i plan on veggin about another week -10 days to get em a little over a foot tall, and then ill start my journal and have all the goodies set up.. stay tuned
 

inval

Active Member
I'm just about to start my C02 conversion. I have always heard that optimal photosynthesis takes place at 76, so I've always tried to stay at 80 without C02. I am persuaded that increased C02 will allow for higher temperatures to metabolize the extra C02, but does this harm bud development. I've never used C02 during flowering. I've always believed that the higher temperatures during flowering causes buds to stretch and become less hard, the plants response to trying to lower internal bud temperatures and preserve the sex cells and the seeds. Could I operate effectively at the lower end, say 90 and still have good results? What happens to buds at 95 through the whole cycle? Does anyone have any problems with this?

I want to set up my C02 on a cycle that allows ventilation every 3 hours for about 15 minutes. I'll use air conditioning and a dehumidifier to reduce humidity and temperature when it's closed up. I'll be running at night. What does everyone think?

In my experience it is absolutely essential to keep res temperatures at 65-68. There is nothing worse than getting a pythium attack that destroys your roots. Healthy plant one day, wilting and dead the next. I guess I'll have to look at a chiller. Great, more expense.
 

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
I'm just about to start my C02 conversion. I have always heard that optimal photosynthesis takes place at 76, so I've always tried to stay at 80 without C02. I am persuaded that increased C02 will allow for higher temperatures to metabolize the extra C02, but does this harm bud development. I've never used C02 during flowering. I've always believed that the higher temperatures during flowering causes buds to stretch and become less hard, the plants response to trying to lower internal bud temperatures and preserve the sex cells and the seeds. Could I operate effectively at the lower end, say 90 and still have good results? What happens to buds at 95 through the whole cycle? Does anyone have any problems with this?

I want to set up my C02 on a cycle that allows ventilation every 3 hours for about 15 minutes. I'll use air conditioning and a dehumidifier to reduce humidity and temperature when it's closed up. I'll be running at night. What does everyone think?

In my experience it is absolutely essential to keep res temperatures at 65-68. There is nothing worse than getting a pythium attack that destroys your roots. Healthy plant one day, wilting and dead the next. I guess I'll have to look at a chiller. Great, more expense.

well i am about to make my first run at co2, so i cant tell you from personal experience, but from what i have seen in other grows, and read online, is that in order for co2 to truly be effective, the temps must be at least 85 degrees, otherwise it is too cold for the stomata to open up and utilize the extra co2.

now some research has shown that the the greatest gains in yields and growth is at 90-95 degrees and 1500ppm, but i dont know anyone personally who has grown at those temps, but there are those that i have seen online and with no ill effects.

i think it does make the buds stretch out, but the increased co2 allows them to harden up the buds more so than if the temps were just high, which essentially makes the buds the same density that they would otherwise be, just larger.. i think this is where the increased yield comes from but i dont honestly know.

i do know that high heat and co2 levels can decrease potency, which is why some people cut off co2 after flowers have formed, and others when the trics are ripening. i guess the only way to know for sure is trial and error.
 

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
76° would be the number ideal for our typically 300ppm ground-level air.. You have ~1200ppm above that to play before you hit toxicity risk..
Cannabis is a C3 plant.. Not as adapted for water conservation as a C4 plant.. As always, a balance must be maintained.. Most in depth stuff I read claim that the peak temperature for chemical reactions (or atleast the limiting ones) themselves involved with photosynthesisis are as high as 40°C(104°F), and the higher the temperature, the more effectively gas exchanges can occur.. But water loss also increases since the plants do not have separate pathways for the two, and water loss can impede those other reactions from transporting properly.. Thats why high humidity helps combat high temps..
There seems to be alot of deviation in numbers I've seen in studies regarding different types of C3 plants though (about 85-100°, which I think we knew it lies within already:( ), and PubMed etc don't have too much of a focus on cannabis cultivation specifically..:(
A tip if you're searching the net for scientific data yourself though is use the term cannabis.. Its much more often used than marijuana in the scientific realm..
 

inval

Active Member
I first came across the way temperature affects flowering when I started growing indoors about 25 years ago. There was no literature at all then so everything was trial and error. I was using C02 in the veg stage with phenomenal results. I didn't see how you could really do well without it at the time. It literally doubled the veg grow rate. Then I went into flowering without considering how temperature might influence bud development. Temperatures could have been well into the 100s. Those buds stretched worse than any I have ever seen. Literally one long stalk with seed cases about an inch apart. A friend who didn't have the money to invest in C02, left his windows open for ventilation and the room temperature went way down. I couldn't have had a more direct experimental comparison. Here were my buds stretched unbelievably and completely unmarketable and his with rock hard indica that my friend produced just because he didn't have the money for C02. I resolved not to try C02 again in the flowering stage and became an advocate for near constant ventilation. As I acquired more knowledge, I learned to moderate ventilation to an ideal range of humidity and temperature.

Now I'm back to trying C02 again in the flowering stage with air conditioning and dehumidification. But I'm very wary of high temperatures. I would hate to make all this investment and end up with an inferior product. I'm looking at the Hydroinnovations water cooled C02 generator that doesn't add heat to the room, the Sentinel controller, automated mechanical shutters for my exhaust fans, a good size dehumidifier, an air conditioner (just in case) and now a res chiller(something I hadn't thought of). Ouch! I hope the results are worth it and the higher temps don't harm my currently perfect buds. Does anyone have some real experience with this?? Has anyone else taken a look at the Hydroinnovations products, the water-cooled C02 burner, light shields and the water cooled 6 inch radiator that chill the lights (I vent my lights). The radiator looks like a great idea and would be great in a 12 inch configuration. Anything that lowers the electricity cost sounds good.
 

inval

Active Member
I just joined rollitup. I've actually been growing indoors for about 30 years (wow, has it been that long?!). I don't want to get off topic, but in those days, the only literature was "Sensimilla Tips", Tom Alexander's magazine. He has since gone on to do the free publication "Growing Edge" in which, as you probably know, they have articles on orchids and tomatoes. Right...

Tom had a store in Eugene and it was the first place that you could buy 1000 watt lights for growing. At that time we thought you should use halides for veg and sodiums for flowering. The store was Full Moon Hydroponics. You had to construct your ballasts from scratch with all the components. He was so excited when I came up and bought 20 kits. I was his first big customer. Then the cops came after him, so he dropped the Hydro store and started Growing Edge.

Now it's really a science. You youngsters don't know how good you have it. : )
 

inval

Active Member
I just hope someone out there can discuss/address my concerns/thoughts on the C02 post above...
 

born2killspam

Well-Known Member
With current practises and technology even the dumber noobs are liking the results of enrichment.. CO2 enriched grows can handle more than normal heat no doubt.. Obviously theres no need to hit those temps anymore, there are pretty quiet fans on the market that can suck the hell out of your room in seconds these days, and the amount of automation/control you can incorporate these days is pretty sweet.. Its ALL solid-state now that we're in the future..:)
 
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