The Bruce Bugbee Method

Bruce nugbee

Bruce nugbee

Member
A start to finish guide is what I'd love to see.
Bruce's work organized with slight suggested variations.
A clear novice start up for with the sort of items you will likely need to keep within the parameters.
"If we're really going to push those plants"
In light of said research...

I have mixed up 40 litres of his soiless mix (According to the video 49min original. )
50% peat (ec of 700ms/cm).
50% vermiculite
56g dolomite (1.4g per litre)
12g of gypsum. (0.3g per litre)
40g(1g per litre wollastonite)
I strayed from the exact method here as my gypsum is a powder and not slow release pellets. This may be the reason for my very high ec.
Or the 40g of wollastonite...
I watered 30 litres of water through the mix trying to flush the medium to lower the ec
Ec was 3000millisemens per cm to start,
I Flushed with 130millisemens nutrition ph to 6.
Tested run off and repeated flushing
30 litres of water later and I need help.

Should I have added the soil ammendments after lowering the ec of the peat and vermiculite mix??

Any one that would like to help me catalogue the optimal process for "buggers" style please share your knowledge, Link me to materials here!

I'd love to make a week by week chart. More like recipe for what the parameters should be.

Table with week one and 9 boxes one for each of the cardinal parameters each parameter is clear to see

Week 1
Light = ***ppfd 18on-6off
distance from plant 18"+

Water= irrigation rate, timed or hand fed.
Soak the media until moisture is absorbed and 10-15% run off can be collected to track ph and ec.
ph 6.2 ?
Rate: Every 3-4 days moist is good too wet isn't

Nutrients = 60ms/cm very low in the first week
Co2= 800+ ppm(natural) no additional requirement
Wind= 1>m/s constant and indirect.
Soil Oxygen= vermiculite mix and lack of excess watering keeps root zone oxygen levels sustainable
Air Temp = 24-26°C regulated by light and ac .
Humidity = regulated to 70% with a dome, fans and propagator
Root temp = nominal due to light intensity and distance

This is just an example but I would love to have such an item. And one for keeping a mother in a perpetual state, that maybe alters when clones are taken.

I look forward to any advice for a nugbee newb.
 
Kushash

Kushash

Well-Known Member
Bruce nugbee said:
A start to finish guide is what I'd love to see.
Bruce's work organized with slight suggested variations.
A clear novice start up for with the sort of items you will likely need to keep within the parameters.
"If we're really going to push those plants"
In light of said research...

I have mixed up 40 litres of his soiless mix (According to the video 49min original. )
50% peat (ec of 700ms/cm).
50% vermiculite
56g dolomite (1.4g per litre)
12g of gypsum. (0.3g per litre)
40g(1g per litre wollastonite)
I strayed from the exact method here as my gypsum is a powder and not slow release pellets. This may be the reason for my very high ec.
Or the 40g of wollastonite...
I watered 30 litres of water through the mix trying to flush the medium to lower the ec
Ec was 3000millisemens per cm to start,
I Flushed with 130millisemens nutrition ph to 6.
Tested run off and repeated flushing
30 litres of water later and I need help.

Should I have added the soil ammendments after lowering the ec of the peat and vermiculite mix??

Any one that would like to help me catalogue the optimal process for "buggers" style please share your knowledge, Link me to materials here!

I'd love to make a week by week chart. More like recipe for what the parameters should be.

Table with week one and 9 boxes one for each of the cardinal parameters each parameter is clear to see

Week 1
Light = ***ppfd 18on-6off
distance from plant 18"+

Water= irrigation rate, timed or hand fed.
Soak the media until moisture is absorbed and 10-15% run off can be collected to track ph and ec.
ph 6.2 ?
Rate: Every 3-4 days moist is good too wet isn't

Nutrients = 60ms/cm very low in the first week
Co2= 800+ ppm(natural) no additional requirement
Wind= 1>m/s constant and indirect.
Soil Oxygen= vermiculite mix and lack of excess watering keeps root zone oxygen levels sustainable
Air Temp = 24-26°C regulated by light and ac .
Humidity = regulated to 70% with a dome, fans and propagator
Root temp = nominal due to light intensity and distance

This is just an example but I would love to have such an item. And one for keeping a mother in a perpetual state, that maybe alters when clones are taken.

I look forward to any advice for a nugbee newb.
Click to expand...
It doesn't sound like you have skill watering a plant in soil. Buy a bag of soil and put this much effort into learning to water a plant will benefit you much more than all of this if you want to grow dank weed. Good Luck!
 
Bruce nugbee

Bruce nugbee

Member
Kushash said:
It doesn't sound like you have skill watering a plant in soil. Buy a bag of soil and put this much effort into learning to water a plant will benefit you much more than all of this if you want to grow dank weed. Good Luck!
Click to expand...
Lmfao. Thanks for the heads up.
I'm also growing outside in soil. Just harvested a nice runtz plant. I have never set up a chemical grow medium before though.

I am going to grow the bugbee way in my 2"×2"
Just learning, but have got a few soil grows under my belt so far.

When mixing up a soiless medium 40litres
Bruce says ec level of 1.3millisemens / meter

But he doesn't say how much flushing is needed to get the level of ec down to that magic number.
30litres seems extreme.

Have you ever made a soiless mix?
How do you prepare it before you add the plant to medium.

Nice one for that advice though learning how to water a plant in soil, sticking ya finger in or lifting the pot doesn't help much in lowering ec though.
 
Kushash

Kushash

Well-Known Member
Bruce nugbee said:
Lmfao. Thanks for the heads up.
I'm also growing outside in soil. Just harvested a nice runtz plant. I have never set up a chemical grow medium before though.

I am going to grow the bugbee way in my 2"×2"
Just learning, but have got a few soil grows under my belt so far.

When mixing up a soiless medium 40litres
Bruce says ec level of 1.3millisemens / meter

But he doesn't say how much flushing is needed to get the level of ec down to that magic number.
30litres seems extreme.

Have you ever made a soiless mix?
How do you prepare it before you add the plant to medium.

Nice one for that advice though learning how to water a plant in soil, sticking ya finger in or lifting the pot doesn't help much in lowering ec though.
Click to expand...
Whatever works have fun. I see mostly problems from growers combining a soil grow with a heavy amount of coco. I've only used small quantities of coco in my soil for diversity.
Let me ask this. Does the style you are talking about result in plants with high brix?
There are lots of ways to succeed and there are a ton of growers here who grow healthy plants. I've never followed Dr. B. All I here from others here is a negative view of his growing skill making it hard to want to follow what he says. If I ever see a few growers using his style that can reach the high brix level we see here on a regular basis then maybe there would be more interest.
That's just my opinion. My 1st response wasn't the fun route, but I feel it's the better one and I would be happy if the Dr. stopped by to chat about it but I'm out for the night. It's 5 O'Clock somewhere.
 
Bruce nugbee

Bruce nugbee

Member
Bruce nugbee said:
Nice one for the help sleep well.
Brix isn't a term I know.

I'm determined though. *Googles brix*
Click to expand...
"A high Brix value indicates a good taste and quality of your crop. The taste of your end products will be sweeter when the Brix value is high. A crop with a high Brix value can also be preserved longer. Additionally, plants with a high Brix value are more resistant to insect attacks."

"Err yeh sounds sweet. "
 
Bruce nugbee

Bruce nugbee

Member
I Think I know what I was doing wrong.
My conversion Was wrong.
I'm working with microseimens per cm
Bugbee is working with millisiemens per cm.
(Not per meter like he said. I paused the video and checked his meter.
1300 is the magic ec number I'm looking for on my meter

1300 micro seimens per cm!!!

Well I got it down to 475 micro Siemens per cm. So that's actually perfect for
Seedlings. I recon.
Atleast I know what to do now off to buy more vermiculite And start again.

I think I need to start the process again with pelletised slow release gypsum

After flashing the mix now down to such a low ec, should I re ammend the mix with calmag and gypsum
 
BongerChonger

BongerChonger

Well-Known Member
Bruce nugbee said:
I'm also growing outside in soil. Just harvested a nice runtz plant. I have never set up a chemical grow medium before though.
Click to expand...
That's really good. Great start.
And in my own opinion, learning to grow with outdoor soil the organic way is the best way to learn.
If I can offer you any advice or direction to go to find the type of information you might be looking for it's to stick to the very basics. I can list a few things besides photosynthesis to get you started to search for. And if I come across any good information myself, I'll pass it along.
I'll list some things below -
  1. Photosynthesis
  2. Carbon Cycle - in all environments. Above ground, in the air, in the soil horizon etc. (plants and soils breathe)
  3. Plant Transpiration and Translocation.
  4. Potential Hydrogen.
  5. Soil structure and soil fertility - Outdoor soils the importance of soil structure is huge. Some terms to search that relate are the Soil Horizon, Cation Exchange Cycle or capacity, Soil Dispersion and erosion, Chelation, Anaerobic and Aerobic environments, Humus + humic and fulvic acids, beneficial organisms like worms and how important they are etc, etc. list could go on.​
  6. Organic Carbon - how important it is to all life and soil fertility. Every organic gardener worth their sauce knows how important carbon is. And how important it is to always be replenishing it.​

Bruce nugbee said:
I may be autistic I am conceptually gauging the scale
Click to expand...
May I say I understand, I do the same often. I often have trouble forming the right questions too. Can easily be taken for a know-it-all when all I'm trying to do is ask a question to better understand something I don't know. Without intention to patronize or intellectually challenge. It just sometimes comes off that way.
I'm a very literal thinker and think abstractly. And often in first person.

As I said, I'll keep a look out for any good information about outdoor soil. It's a really fun hobby and I'm always happy to share.

To me plants are a numbers game. Don't try and recreate the wheel first go round. Apply the basics and your own way of growing will evolve in time.

GL.
 
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