The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds

danion

Member
Does anyone know of a Chinese company that makes panels but 400-480W, type grower choice E420, lumatek/photontek 465W? lights for spaces of 1m2?
the only ones I have seen that have something of 480W are:

shenzhen umol technology

Shenzhen Lite Science Electronics Co., Ltd.

apart from the unit bars and kingbrite 320w kit
 
Any Opinions on the new Hortibloom boards? I Just pulled the trigger on the 1000W option with lm301h and osram660s. Hope I didn't make a mistake I love my Meijiu boards. Idk though with a 5 year warranty it made it a pretty easy choice compared to a 1 year warranty.
 

NukaKola

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know of a Chinese company that makes panels but 400-480W, type grower choice E420, lumatek/photontek 465W? lights for spaces of 1m2?
the only ones I have seen that have something of 480W are:

shenzhen umol technology

Shenzhen Lite Science Electronics Co., Ltd.

apart from the unit bars and kingbrite 320w kit
Kingbrite and Meijiu both make 480w strip lights.

Link: Kingbrite 480w
Link: Meijiu 480w
 

Roshambizzle

Well-Known Member
Any Opinions on the new Hortibloom boards? I Just pulled the trigger on the 1000W option with lm301h and osram660s. Hope I didn't make a mistake I love my Meijiu boards. Idk though with a 5 year warranty it made it a pretty easy choice compared to a 1 year warranty.
I see 3 year on there site. And the drivers from Meijiu are like 5 years the boards are 1-2 depending on the light. All bars are replaceable.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Any Opinions on the new Hortibloom boards? I Just pulled the trigger on the 1000W option with lm301h and osram660s. Hope I didn't make a mistake I love my Meijiu boards. Idk though with a 5 year warranty it made it a pretty easy choice compared to a 1 year warranty.
The questions regarding the warranty being actionable: if you have to send back your light for service, on your dime, would it be worth it?

IMHO: see anything you buy from china something that can and will break at some point, like a hps bulb going bad eventually. Learn how to use the parts and build your own light, having a couple of spare parts in case something breaks, and source drivers from locally or atleast your own country. Building with qbs is so easy.
 

Roshambizzle

Well-Known Member
The questions regarding the warranty being actionable: if you have to send back your light for service, on your dime, would it be worth it?

IMHO: see anything you buy from china something that can and will break at some point, like a hps bulb going bad eventually. Learn how to use the parts and build your own light, having a couple of spare parts in case something breaks, and source drivers from locally or atleast your own country. Building with qbs is so easy.
Anything you buy from anywhere is made to break now a days. Doesn't matter if its from China USA or bum fuck no where. You make lasting stuff you get less business.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Anything you buy from anywhere is made to break now a days. Doesn't matter if its from China USA or bum fuck no where. You make lasting stuff you get less business.
True, but if you buy the parts, taking account of this and drive them closer to nominal, at 60w per qb and sink them decently so that you board temps are less than 45-50C then theyll last for many many years. Ive seen boards from meijiu, kb and hlg all fry in pics here on riu, but weve still not had a single china diode fry in our garden, from more than 20000 diodes hanging. They are all run at less than .2w per diode/+-40w per qb and kept at close to room temps.

Not trying to have a go at anyone just saying that there are ways of making the warranty a non issue, by doing a bit of work yourself.
 
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mr4tune

Well-Known Member
Any Opinions on the new Hortibloom boards? I Just pulled the trigger on the 1000W option with lm301h and osram660s. Hope I didn't make a mistake I love my Meijiu boards. Idk though with a 5 year warranty it made it a pretty easy choice compared to a 1 year warranty.
How did you get the lm301h diodes? They told me that they were completely out and only had the Sanan's or lm561c's which is what I had to order.
 
How did you get the lm301h diodes? They told me that they were completely out and only had the Sanan's or lm561c's which is what I had to order.
Yeah I had heard the same from the hortibloom guy on here but I talked to kristy xiao and she said they had a few in stock and made a note in my order to make sure they are lm301h diodes. After looking at the ppfd mapping I'm concerned i might have made a lesser buy, but the sinks are bigger and the components are the same or better than my old boards the only thing I'm questionable on is the driver.
 

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
Yeah I had heard the same from the hortibloom guy on here but I talked to kristy xiao and she said they had a few in stock and made a note in my order to make sure they are lm301h diodes. After looking at the ppfd mapping I'm concerned i might have made a lesser buy, but the sinks are bigger and the components are the same or better than my old boards the only thing I'm questionable on is the driver.
I see. There's certainly nothing wrong with getting "H" designated lm301 chips. When I was first getting into these quantum boards it was a bit confusing for me. GreenGene and several other industry trusted individuals (Stephen from HLG) confirm the lm301b and lm301h are the exact same chip. Just a bit of marketing confusion (intentional or not) on the part of Samsung. I'm not sure what boards are hot in this thread presently, but here are the two 110W boards I just ordered from Shenzhen Yixiou Technology Co on alibaba for $187.60 with tax: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Full-Spectrum-110W-qb288-Samsung-lm301b_62512497620.html?spm=a2756.order-detail-ta-ta-b.0.0.6b8d2fc2MkFLbc. It has a mixture of 3000k and 5000k lm301b chips, IR, and UV.

This is my 2nd order with Yixou. My first order was a 660W board with the same chips. The 660W board is basically 6x of the two boards I linked to above. It works great, but I feel breaking the boards into smaller panels produces a much better spread of light over the canopy. Cramming too many chips and boards together in a small frame creates a lot of intensity that I feel is best spread across the canopy creating a much larger and more evenly distributed light foot print. I believe HLG addressed this very issue with their new Scorpion boards which separates the panels rather than cramming them all together in a tight package. The vendors on 'baba will have their own Scorpion's soon enough for half the price of HLG.
 

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
I have never built my own unit, and I honestly don't think I ever will. It's very cost effective at this point to buy assembled ready to use units at a competitive price on 'baba. However, it's beneficial for all of us LED guys and girls to understand how they are built so that we can repair our units in the event of a problem mid cycle. None of us can afford to have a light go out 4 weeks into flower and wait for warranty service. We need our light fixed yesterday. With that necessity in mind I have a question for the DIY guys. What is the most common failure point in these LED boards? Poor connections? Driver failure? They seem to be fairly simplistic in how they're put together. Is it usually just a matter of taking off the shrouds covering the wires and snugging up the connections that were made poorly at the factory? Do chips actually burn out?
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
I have never built my own unit, and I honestly don't think I ever will. It's very cost effective at this point to buy assembled ready to use units at a competitive price on 'baba. However, it's beneficial for all of us LED guys and girls to understand how they are built so that we can repair our units in the event of a problem mid cycle. None of us can afford to have a light go out 4 weeks into flower and wait for warranty service. We need our light fixed yesterday. With that necessity in mind I have a question for the DIY guys. What is the most common failure point in these LED boards? Poor connections? Driver failure? They seem to be fairly simplistic in how they're put together. Is it usually just a matter of taking off the shrouds covering the wires and snugging up the connections that were made poorly at the factory? Do chips actually burn out?
From what ive seen around here: driver failure and burnt-solder_melted diodes. String going out due to bad diodes. or an entire string becoming brighter, again due to a bad diode.
In my own experience of diy: selfadhesives letting go and connectors getting ripped off.
 

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
From what ive seen around here: driver failure and burnt-solder_melted diodes. String going out due to bad diodes. or an entire string becoming brighter, again due to a bad diode.
In my own experience of diy: selfadhesives letting go and connectors getting ripped off.
Drive replacement seems simple enough. Now replacing a melted diode. That seems like that could get tricky or downright impossible. I remember seeing a video of a quantum board being made. It doesn't seem like they just pop out for replacement. Melt the solder and replace? Do LED's work similar to old fashioned Christmas lights in a series? One goes out and continuity to the rest on down the line are out also?
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Drive replacement seems simple enough. Now replacing a melted diode. That seems like that could get tricky or downright impossible. I remember seeing a video of a quantum board being made. It doesn't seem like they just pop out for replacement. Melt the solder and replace? Do LED's work similar to old fashioned Christmas lights in a series? One goes out and continuity to the rest on down the line are out also?
I dont know. Sometimes it takes the whole string out, but the current will get pushed thru another string. Sometimes it just kills the diode but string keeps working, but this means the voltage in that string gets fucked up and it will draw a bit more current. How to fix it? In diy replace the damaged board with a new one. Or make sure it doesnt happen by using lower power.
 

daadank

Active Member
Just bought another 2 board setup from kingbrite. With ir/uv not sure I will use ir or uv, unless I setup a timer... Any suggestions on timer switches and when to run ir and uv?

They claim 200 lumens per watt on the newest F series
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Just bought another 2 board setup from kingbrite. With ir/uv not sure I will use ir or uv, unless I setup a timer... Any suggestions on timer switches and when to run ir and uv?

They claim 200 lumens per watt on the newest F series
If it comes with the board i dont think you can set a timer to it. Its just a switch
 

mr4tune

Well-Known Member
lm301b is the same diode. Why the obsession with the H designation?
Nothing to do with the B or H. I asked him because I just paid the same price as he did and got the LM561C since they told me that the LM301's were out of stock.

I contacted them well before the Chinese holidays started and was told about the shortage. I then had to wait 8 days because everything shut down. Once they got back I was told they were still out of stock, but the panel would ship in 5 days guarenteed. They had my $940 CAD within 20 minutes. 9 days later I finally get the tracking number that they shipper just received the package info.

Now this "Helen" gal is saying the lm301b's are back in stock meanwhile the panel I paid the same price for is still sitting there with the diodes I didn't want. Is what it is.
 
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