The Masters

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
I usually wait until the rains stop to put nitrogen on the lawn,unless you want to cut it 2-3 times a week,it does fine on its own,mid june I might do a light fert 10-10-10 or a really natural one like Sea-Blend,ealy spring if you can get a broadleaf weedkiller w/real low npk numbers,early mid june a crabgrass preventer,and early july a insect(grub) treatment,I only put that down ev. 2-3 yrs. All the Scotts ferts have crazy hugh N numbers,The more you put on for ferts,the more dependent the grass becomes. I don't keep my yard to g.course standards,don't waste water,and remove weeds by hand a lot.Have a lot of birds and try to stay away from a real chemmed up lawn.Golf Courses have no choice the turf is cut so low the diease pressure is insane,which means biweekly preventitive disease and insect treatments.I'm just a staff member w/a spray app. license and don't pretend to have all the answers,just like diease in hospitals dev. resistance to antibiotics turf diseases dev resistance to fungicides and a different array of products end up being used,same for insects by the way,they also dev. tolerences to pesticides. I just want a acceptable lawn near my home and let the rest of the yard go,in the west and desert areas lawns are being seen as wasteful w/water becoming scarce.
we have roughly a volleyball sized area that i "try" to keep green all year. i haul water that i buy to water once a week. i usually just use up ferts that i don't like for cannabis on the yard when i water. i've seen all types of recommendations and was curious waht you'd go with. 4-1-2 was what i saw the last time i googled it. but 10-10-10 is much, much cheaper.
 

CCGNZ

Well-Known Member
we have roughly a volleyball sized area that i "try" to keep green all year. i haul water that i buy to water once a week. i usually just use up ferts that i don't like for cannabis on the yard when i water. i've seen all types of recommendations and was curious waht you'd go with. 4-1-2 was what i saw the last time i googled it. but 10-10-10 is much, much cheaper.
If you live down South,It's a whole dif grass and game than the northeast,Mass to be specific is where I'm at,If you're in GA. w/the Masters talk I'm out of my comfort zone,you've got better warmer weath,a longer grass season,diff grasses, and more and bigger bugs,the tips I thru out are for a lawnprob. from Jersey up to NH, those 2 states prob differ in the time to apply by 30 days south to north.
 

CCGNZ

Well-Known Member
If you live down South,It's a whole dif grass and game than the northeast,Mass to be specific is where I'm at,If you're in GA. w/the Masters talk I'm out of my comfort zone,you've got better warmer weath,a longer grass season,diff grasses, and more and bigger bugs,the tips I thru out are for a lawnprob. from Jersey up to NH, those 2 states prob differ in the time to apply by 30 days south to north.
One thing for sure is people put down grub treatments to earlt and it's ineffective .If you lift up turf and the grubs are not moving and feeding on roots then applying grub treatments is a waste of $. The chem gets into the plant root and killls the grubs once they feed on it,otherwise you won't get rid of them unless they are actively feeding.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
If you live down South,It's a whole dif grass and game than the northeast,Mass to be specific is where I'm at,If you're in GA. w/the Masters talk I'm out of my comfort zone,you've got better warmer weath,a longer grass season,diff grasses, and more and bigger bugs,the tips I thru out are for a lawnprob. from Jersey up to NH, those 2 states prob differ in the time to apply by 30 days south to north.
i'm in colorado at about 9000 feet! lol. so i'm probably like nothing in the south or northeast. we usually get alot of heavy spring snow so i don't need to water much but this year has been really dry so far
 
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