The Three - Amazing Shits....

piatch said:

Excellent thread, this is going in my favorites. I do have a question about foliar feeding with compost teas. I've got some chickens and have been composting their manure for the last three years along with the wheat straw and pine shavings that I put in the coop, along with yard and kitchen waste. I recently made an aerated tea with five gls. of non chlorinated water two shovel fulls of six month old compost, five tbls of unsulfered molassas, and three tbls of endo/ecto Mycorrhizae. It's been bubbling for about three days with a good head of foam spilling over the side of the bucket. I'm wondering if this is to hot to use as a foliar spray? Should I dillute it? I am in the second week of flowering outdoors in 10 gl. pots in full sun.

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Piatch.. Sounds like you've got a really nice tea going there. The molasses has enriched you mix to a NPK of 2.5-.5-1.5, the chicken manure probably added an NPK of 1.5-1-1.5 So your in the neighborhood of 4-1.5-3 NPK. Dropping that mix down to 1.33-.5-1, which are excellant numbers for folair feeding, would do you the most good.
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I'd mix it one part of your tea, to two parts unchlorinated water. I'd apply it every three days for two weeks. Making sure to spray the undersides of the leaves - where it does the most good as a fertilizer. Do this early in the morning, just as the sun is rising for best results.
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Just leave the rest of your tea in the bucket bubbling - then after two weeks - water the left over tea, into your pots - dividing it equally between all of them - but no more than one gallon per plant.
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Hope this helps....
Thanks for the rep +
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Ohso, couple of things.. first, everything I'm reading about Mycorrhizae seems to indicate that their function is in soil, in the root zone. To that end, doesn't it seem a little wasteful to put them on the leaves, where they cannot grow, break down nutrients, or encourage root growth?

Second, I am one of three sisters. Guess what one of our collective nicknames was (I can't believe I needed one of them to remind me!). You guessed it, the three amazing (little) shits.

Seamaiden said:

Ohso, couple of things.. first, everything I'm reading about Mycorrhizae seems to indicate that their function is in soil, in the root zone. To that end, doesn't it seem a little wasteful to put them on the leaves, where they cannot grow, break down nutrients, or encourage root growth?

Second, I am one of three sisters. Guess what one of our collective nicknames was (I can't believe I needed one of them to remind me!). You guessed it, the three amazing (little) shits.

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Seamaiden.. The purpose of the mycho fungi (endo type) in Super Plant Tonic is to tap into the roots, throw out a web of fungi threads & feed the plants rootball. The fungi, Piatch is using are both endo & etco fungi. So, that makes it a little different.
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From the Greek: "ecto" = outside, "endo" = inside, "micos" = fungus, "riza" = root.
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The ecto fungi in his mix are a little different. They can live on the surface of a root or a leaf. They will break down the nitrogen & minerals present in rainwater or foliar feeding mixes - and aid in feeding the plant.
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That is why I advised him to spray the underside of the leaves. It provides some protection from UV light - while the ecto fungi establish themselves (they can take allot more UV light than their soil dwelling cousins - the endo fungi). Plus it's the proper location to foliar feed - so you actually get your fertilizer or amendment into the plant.
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The ecto fungi will end up eating the endo fungi as a food source when they die from UV light exposure. They will then multiply & be ready when something else comes their way. They will kill of any group of bacteria or fungi smaller in numbers than them. It's Gang Warfare - & the guy with the biggest gang - Wins. Ecto Fungi take no prisoners.....
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Since, they will establish a colony & keep other bacteria & fungi (which could be diseases) from being able to set up shop. They will aid in plant disease resistance & plant vigor.
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One of three sisters, huh. Where you the cheerleader, the prom queen or the brain-e-ack ? Inquiring minds want to know ? LOL....
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I am the sarcastic one, wicked to the core.

Seamaiden said:

I am the sarcastic one, wicked to the core.

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Yikes.... I forgot the sharp, sassy one in my list.
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I'm the oldest brother.... The nice, easy going, responsible one... LOL....
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I am now opening up my - How to - Do Voodooo Book .. Protection Spell Chapter...... How to ward off angry Seamaidens.... Darn I can't find that one....
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I'll just have to go hide in a Cave.....away from quick stops & old people driving 70's model Pontiacs....
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Ohsogreen said:

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Yikes.... I forgot the sharp, sassy one in my list.
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I'm the oldest brother.... The nice, easy going, responsible one... LOL....
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I am now opening up my - How to - Do Voodooo Book .. Protection Spell Chapter...... How to ward off angry Seamaidens.... Darn I can't find that one....
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I'll just have to go hide in a Cave.....away from quick stops & old people driving 70's model Pontiacs....
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I am the eldest as well. Seamaidens can be easily plied with a little weed.

great threat lots of info here..
was wondring what are your thought are on ashes,good for traces elements.
how much casting would you get from 1 litre of reds,in how much time

good job helping people with there grows. peace

very good man thanks again reguarding your fungi do you believe i could culture them like with shrooms jars of rye or whatever then maybe break the cakes up into soil mixes ect. do you know where i can get some spores to try it with do you know the strain/type of fungi which is most benificial within a hydro res or even just within my hydroton in the net pots

i use piranha and tarantula with good results i foliar spray vegging plants with these sometimes to crowd out undesirable organisms

superskunkxnl said:

very good man thanks again reguarding your fungi do you believe i could culture them like with shrooms jars of rye or whatever then maybe break the cakes up into soil mixes ect. do you know where i can get some spores to try it with do you know the strain/type of fungi which is most benificial within a hydro res or even just within my hydroton in the net pots

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If you want to know EXACTLY what you're dealing with, look into the Dr. Earth line of fertilizers (I think next purchase is going to be for the acid loving plants, azaleas, rhododendrons, evergreens). They list the exact genus and species of all microbes as their ferts are not limited to endo/ecto mycorrhizae, AND, dig this shit, the actually give you the exact number of propagules of each critter! Expiration dates on the box and everything. You know exactly what you're dealing with, with Dr. Earth (oh yeah, it's a dry fert that can be used as is, or made into a tea, then you recover the sludge and re-use that).

thanks seamaiden ill get onto that now

yes all living products have shelf lifes alot of companies have no expiration which is suspect to me

bicycle racer said:

yes all living products have shelf lifes alot of companies have no expiration which is suspect to me

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Right on Bicycle racer. That is a sure fire way to weed out stuff that is not truely Organic. Dead stuff has no shelf life or life period.
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+ rep for taking the Red Pill - Both I & Morpheus (from the Matrix) approve of your line of thinking.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redpill
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Ohsogreen, Organic for Life.....
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how is chicken shit?

Hmm... tastes just like chicken!

peacemane420 said:

how is chicken shit?

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Peacemane420 Chicken manure is great during veggie growth. Since, it's a highly soluble source of Nitrogen. It's best used, when it's three weeks old or composted to avoid burning.
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You can make a tea with it, using a cup to a gallon of unchlorinated water. Water in, one quart per plant in containers or one gallon max. for an in ground plant. Throw the left over crud in you compost pile, or split it up between four or more plants - as a left over top dress.
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If you don't have access to fresh chicken poop, you can find lots of companies selling it. The nice thing is it comes almost odorless, either in a fine grain or pelletized form. The NPK runs from 2-1-2 up to 6-4-6 on average - depends on the company. I have used some called chickity-do-do from www.wormsway.com they have a fair selection of all Organic amendments.
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Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic...you'll be glad you did.
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Hey guys, and Ohsogreen you organics expert, I have a question. I have liquid Fish Emulsion, Kelp Extract, and Blackstrap Molasses. I have 4 weeks of flowering left for some Diesel Ryders, and whats the best way to make use of all of these nutrients.

I've already foliar fed twice before with this concoction:
1/2 TBS Fish Emulsion
1/2 TBS Kelp Extract
1.5 TBS Blackstrap Molasses

And I've already watered once with just plain distilled water and molasses. Now my questions are, is my foliar feeding solution fine? Think I should increase or decrease anything? Also, how often is it safe to apply this solution, once a week, or every day?

Also, whats the best waterting solution I could make, just what it says on the bottle for each thing?

kirby said:

Hey guys, and Ohsogreen you organics expert, I have a question. I have liquid Fish Emulsion, Kelp Extract, and Blackstrap Molasses. I have 4 weeks of flowering left for some Diesel Ryders, and whats the best way to make use of all of these nutrients.

I've already foliar fed twice before with this concoction:
1/2 TBS Fish Emulsion
1/2 TBS Kelp Extract
1.5 TBS Blackstrap Molasses

And I've already watered once with just plain distilled water and molasses. Now my questions are, is my foliar feeding solution fine? Think I should increase or decrease anything? Also, how often is it safe to apply this solution, once a week, or every day?

Also, whats the best waterting solution I could make, just what it says on the bottle for each thing?

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Kirby With just four weeks left, I would stop folair feeding. Foliar feeding during flowering can lead to mold. With trichromes forming on your leaves, they act like velcro with moisture. You don't want too much moisture on the leaves at this point.
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Instead, I would just use two of these good things to fertilize the soil, or medium you are using. I would leave the seaweed extract out at this point. It can affect auxin and photochrome levels - limiting your flower production. I would also stop using the fish emulsion the last two weeks. Sometimes, fish emulsion can give your bud a off taste if used right up until finish. The molasses can be used right up until harvest.
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Hope this helps...
Keep it Real...Organic....
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Fantastic, thanks for your help. Where did you learn all this juicy information about auxin and photochrome, and all those other good plant hormones, botany classes?

I know molasses adds carbs and other essential micronutrients, but is it OK to water it will molasses, AND foliar feed daily with molasses?

Also, speaking of molasses, is there anything else you can do during flowering to increase bud size / yield, and increase potency ( resin )? I've heard before harvest, keeping it light for 3 days will strain or do something to the resin glands, and make it produce shittons of resin.

Thanks