True HP Aero For 2011
- Thread starter Trichy Bastard
- Start date
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
Syder, you're asking the same question over and over again, if I answer it, will you just ask again? lol... Seriously, in your case, just go for plastic in every part you can, as it's cheapest, and will not corrode or react or be toxic to plants. STC does make good valves, the plastic are apparently good, for 19 usd, and stainless is about 35 usd. There are some blue cheapo ones on ebay for like 15 bucks, and they'd probably work too, but who knows it they'll take the beating of operating hundreds of time per day for months and years in a row? In the end, this is just a very small apsect of all the thinking you'll have to do to get this thing up and running right, while it's good to be detail oriented, you just have to move on, make some choices, and understand you'll likely change out some parts as time goes by in your pursuit of perfection. Building an HPA is likely more for people who enjoy engineering and making their own setups, not so much for people who just want to scavenge information and copy without really understanding what it is they're actually doing. Of course this is where alot of us noob HPA people run into issues, because we attempt to deviate from the proven setup too much- so there is a balance, at least in the beginning. My personal path was to try to understand and copy as much as possible people like G-Love, Atomizer, and tree farmer, because they are having good results. From here I can try to test out new ways and put my own personal "spin" on things.
I use the SS solenoids, Delrin pressure regulator, SS pressure relief valve, John Guess fittings, hose, valves, plastic nozzles. The only thing made out of any other material is my water hammer device, didn't have any control over it. Like TB says, try to use all plastic or Stainless steel as you can, or can afford. Shop around, ask others where the deals are or where they found their parts. It is a little pricey to get started, but most stuff if you buy quality won't need to be replaced anytime soon. Good luck.
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
DOH! that sucks... Well the brits were always good at that sort of thing, perhaps it's time for a Boston Solenoid Party! hehehe
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
No, not at all can you tell me more about your system, like which pump you use, and how everything is mapped out? I have been quite happy with my cheap, but good working switch. Have you tried adjusting it? Also, it may have to be installed vertically (with the screws facing the ground levelly to work proper, I have to look again, but some switches rely on gravity to help them. If I remember correctly, this switch can be mounted vertically or horizontally, but it may have to be level in either case. And you have it mounted within 2 feet of the accumulator, using john guest tubing throughout the system?
Mike Young
Well-Known Member
Durability/dependability. I wish my tank was rated that high. although if you're thinking of running that kind of pressure, I think it's been determined that 100 or so psi is ideal. I think when you start blasting your roots with 150+, the environment no longer promotes delicate root hairs.
heres some hp aero action as noone seems to ever post videos maybe this will encourage others!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5x_eicSEEj8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5x_eicSEEj8
hammer21
Well-Known Member
Dh plants look good the brown spots could be low ph may want to double check your meter. Your buckets look like mine almost you can really see where the mist hit the roots. Next time going to try nozzles from the side with a deflector to prevent mist directly hitting roots. Keep up the good work
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Absolutely. Aquathin ROs offer a booster pump option. BPs do 2 things:
1. Increased pressure above incoming water pressure increases production
2. Increased pressure helps membrane to reject more impurities producing lower ppm product water
If this is a DIY, you would also need a pressure switch/solenoid to control when the BP comes on/off.
Thanks hammer when this was happening my pen said 7.5 but in the ph solution of 7.0 it was reading 8.2! I think the storage solution might have gotten dirty? How would I check my pen? After playing around with it for a bit I was able to get it to read RO water at 7.0 n the solution 6.9 so then I blew my acc back into the res and added pro-tekt, then ph down to 5.8. They seem ok so far.
I have the glass probe one and calibrated it. my ph is 6.0
n they seem to be showing some new green so ill keep right there for now. thanks hammer