True HP Aero For 2011

Trichy Bastard · Jan 25, 2012

Mike Young said:
Would a flush mount drain to the bottom be something you could slap in while ya got it apart? Hell, if ya gotta tip the whole thing a few degrees to get proper drainage, I doubt your plants would notice.

I really hope the great stuff gives a a couple of degrees. I think you made the right decision in your choice. I only wish I would've been there at the hardware store with ya. The blue can for windows & doors is actually the highest quality they make. Probably not a huge deal. It actually expands less than the original formula, but is more dense. Doh! Well, if doesn't quite get ya there I'd be happy to help ya explore some heat exchange ideas. Sounds fun. I have the opposite problem. I did have the brilliant idea to elevate my heater to about 5'. Keeps the plants in my room 80, while my res, accumulator, & roots keep at about 65. Cold weather can have it's benefits.

Oh, the reason I suggested the corrugated plastic is that it was the cheapest thing I could think of that resembled the heat shield they use for the space shuttle. Shit literally looks like honeycomb. The more NASA the better, lol. I also looked at cooling towers for thermo nuclear plants. I doubt you wanna try & tackle air cooled though. VW didn't even stick that one out.

Mikey- you don't give me enough credit...

I always try to do my research... The blue stuff does not expand much, it is latex based... Unfortunately is is not closed cell foam, it disentegrates under water and has about half the r-value of closed cell foam. It is better for doors and windows due to not aggresively expanding to the point where it bows the frame in, causing the window to break... Yes, I have considered tipping the chamber, but I would have to tilt it from one side, and also towards the back, and then there is the plastic mold lumps the water has to contend with too... Might have to build up the bottom like a ramp, so that it flows right into the corner where the drain hole is... I'll ponder it, cuz I agree I might as well tackle this now while she's apart and I gotta take out the silkscreen anyway.

I never liked the way the water just sits in there anyway, luckily the bleach seeme to keep things at bay...

Mike Young · Jan 25, 2012

Trichy Bastard said:
Mikey- you don't give me enough credit... I always try to do my research... The blue stuff does not expand much, it is latex based... Unfortunately is is not closed cell foam, it disentegrates under water and has about half the r-value of closed cell foam. It is better for doors and windows due to not aggresively expanding to the point where it bows the frame in, causing the window to break... Yes, I have considered tipping the chamber, but I would have to tilt it from one side, and also towards the back, and then there is the plastic mold lumps the water has to contend with too... Might have to build up the bottom like a ramp, so that it flows right into the corner where the drain hole is... I'll ponder it, cuz I agree I might as well tackle this now while she's apart and I gotta take out the silkscreen anyway.

I never liked the way the water just sits in there anyway, luckily the bleach seeme to keep things at bay...

Awe man, I give you all the credit in the world. I was just mis-informed. Go fuckin figure. I should've known better than to take the advice of a man being paid 8 bucks an hour. I thought the door & window shit would be more adept to moisture as that's where you'd want a moisture barrier. My bad.

I edited my post reguarding the insulation thing, and I fear you might not have caught my addition, as it was late... I know I've missed alot of edits in the past, so I'll just paste this bit again. But then again, I might be underestimating you again.

Oh, the reason I suggested the corrugated plastic is that it was the cheapest thing I could think of that resembled the heat shield they use for the space shuttle. Shit literally looks like honeycomb. The more NASA the better, lol. I also looked at cooling towers for thermo nuclear plants. I doubt you wanna try & tackle air cooled though. VW didn't even stick that one out.

Trichy Bastard · Jan 25, 2012

Thanks Mike, yes I saw it, but only because I read it for the first time after the change apparently. I don't understand much how I'd use it, so i guess more google for me. Doubt air cooling would work well here for me when the ambient air gets 90 or 95 on alot of days. I did consider a sort of evaporative cooling like a "swamp cooler" but after researching, the high humidity here would not have it working very well.. It works great in arid environments like AZ though

kmbud · Jan 25, 2012

tree farmer said:
ive always used GH and in the hydraulic nozzle setups ive had good success just using a NPK ratio of 3-1-2 and calmag mixing the 3 part GH flora series. the 1000ppm and even 700 is alot higher than i ran. ive run as low as 300ppm 4 weeks into flowering. now i could have probably used more p and k as the 3-1-2 is really a veg nute ratio but they always did well so i never bothered with any boosters or bumping up the p and k. flushing is something people overlook in HP. i flushed once a week (or sooner towards the end of flower)until the dtw ran at 30 ppm or less. if you pay attention the dtw will slowly creep up over a certain amount of time depending on chamber size , plant size, nute strenght, etc. this has to be corrected or it throws the system out of balance. you can flush slowly by just changing over to ro water and run a regular mist cycle or you can do like i did and run 15-20 gallons thru the whole system all at once. And yes it does destroy the root hairs temporaryly but they come back quickly and the roots just love the bath. before i started doing this i had slow growth and all kinds of wierd shit happenning. but when i realized that with such small amounts of mist being delivered to the roots in a cycle you are going to have build up and this has to be flushed. this is especially true in small chambers with large root masses. when the dtw ppm is the same or higher than the input i flushed. even in my lp aero systems i flushed and it always made a world of difference keeping everything in balance. short mist cycles just cant flush the excess salts away in a developed root mass. my motto when i had problems with plant looking defiecencies was to lower the ppm. wait and see if things turn around if not lower it some more. wait and repeat. now if this doent work then id start going up slowly and in a couple of instances going up corrected the problems but most of the time it was lowereing the ppm that corrected the problems. also with very low ppms you cant go to full strenght on the calmag because that would make up 90 percent of the total ppm. working the problem slowly and methodically will most certainly get the answers. ive never had a run i couldnt turn around. some took a long........ time but i got them figured out and then the next run with the same strain was a cakewalk.

I have been having close to the same problems. I have been using GH 3 part flora series. When you say 312, are you saying 3 gro, 1 micro, and 2 bloom? I have been using the Bloom and Ripening ratio of 1 gro, 2 micro, 3 bloom. I need to get this straight in my head before I go any further. I am going to follow your advice on the flushing and go down to about 300 ppm on the nutes. I will also monitor my out take to see what the discharge is on ppm. With everyone else on this thread mostly using other brand of nutes it would help to get the perspective from someone using the same nutes as I am. Thanks for your input on this. I never even thought about the salt build up on the roots because of low volumes of spray. That makes perfect since. How do you gauge how much cal mag to add? At 300 ppm you are probally at a 1/5 or 1/6 strength to normal ratio. I started off at a 1/4 ratio and had about 375 ppm, and I only added silica. This got my roots to where I needed them. Them it seems my problems started from there.

dickkhead · Jan 25, 2012

tree farmer said:
ive always used GH and in the hydraulic nozzle setups ive had good success just using a NPK ratio of 3-1-2 and calmag mixing the 3 part GH flora series. the 1000ppm and even 700 is alot higher than i ran. ive run as low as 300ppm 4 weeks into flowering. now i could have probably used more p and k as the 3-1-2 is really a veg nute ratio but they always did well so i never bothered with any boosters or bumping up the p and k. flushing is something people overlook in HP. i flushed once a week (or sooner towards the end of flower)until the dtw ran at 30 ppm or less. if you pay attention the dtw will slowly creep up over a certain amount of time depending on chamber size , plant size, nute strenght, etc. this has to be corrected or it throws the system out of balance. you can flush slowly by just changing over to ro water and run a regular mist cycle or you can do like i did and run 15-20 gallons thru the whole system all at once. And yes it does destroy the root hairs temporaryly but they come back quickly and the roots just love the bath. before i started doing this i had slow growth and all kinds of wierd shit happenning. but when i realized that with such small amounts of mist being delivered to the roots in a cycle you are going to have build up and this has to be flushed. this is especially true in small chambers with large root masses. when the dtw ppm is the same or higher than the input i flushed. even in my lp aero systems i flushed and it always made a world of difference keeping everything in balance. short mist cycles just cant flush the excess salts away in a developed root mass. my motto when i had problems with plant looking defiecencies was to lower the ppm. wait and see if things turn around if not lower it some more. wait and repeat. now if this doent work then id start going up slowly and in a couple of instances going up corrected the problems but most of the time it was lowereing the ppm that corrected the problems. also with very low ppms you cant go to full strenght on the calmag because that would make up 90 percent of the total ppm. working the problem slowly and methodically will most certainly get the answers. ive never had a run i couldnt turn around. some took a long........ time but i got them figured out and then the next run with the same strain was a cakewalk.

Thank you so much for the respones i was literally about to ditch this this weekend if things didnt start changing! I use to flush once a week in my pump only early veg setup. sense I added all the extra gear i flushed once! I will def flush as you reccomend! and I think the cal mag was def my problem why my ppm was jumping so high. Ill look into the GH flora series thanks again its nice to have you on board!

dickkhead · Jan 25, 2012

Mike Young said:
Very nice! I would've never thought to flush, even if things seem to be going well. That's badass. I know everybody uses GH or Canna, but I've had no issues with my H&G aqua flakes. I really don't put alot of thought/faith into nutrients. I know lots of people get into it quite a bit. I just make sure to document everything I do. Part of the reason I was having ph issues is, and I'm ashamed to admit it, but I thought I had my formula down, and didn't need to replace my shitty ph pen. Oops. Anyway, DH: you should not give up just yet. I can attest that not having all the variables nailed down can have worse consequences on you than the plants themselves. I was there until a couple of weeks ago. All I can say is that when shit starts to come together, you'll be pretty happy.

thanks for the inspiraion mike I realy think the salt build up is my biggest issue at this point

kmbud said:
I have been having close to the same problems. I have been using GH 3 part flora series. When you say 312, are you saying 3 gro, 1 micro, and 2 bloom? I have been using the Bloom and Ripening ratio of 1 gro, 2 micro, 3 bloom. I need to get this straight in my head before I go any further. I am going to follow your advice on the flushing and go down to about 300 ppm on the nutes. I will also monitor my out take to see what the discharge is on ppm. With everyone else on this thread mostly using other brand of nutes it would help to get the perspective from someone using the same nutes as I am. Thanks for your input on this. I never even thought about the salt build up on the roots because of low volumes of spray. That makes perfect since. How do you gauge how much cal mag to add? At 300 ppm you are probally at a 1/5 or 1/6 strength to normal ratio. I started off at a 1/4 ratio and had about 375 ppm, and I only added silica. This got my roots to where I needed them. Them it seems my problems started from there.

yes id also like more input on nutes Ive been running technaflora bc nutes and have had great results up until i stoped flushing!

dickkhead · Jan 25, 2012

also a lil off subject but when you guys flower you ever flip to 18/6 for 48 hours to increase yeild? if so at what point?

tree farmer · Jan 25, 2012

kmbud said:
I have been having close to the same problems. I have been using GH 3 part flora series. When you say 312, are you saying 3 gro, 1 micro, and 2 bloom? I have been using the Bloom and Ripening ratio of 1 gro, 2 micro, 3 bloom. I need to get this straight in my head before I go any further. I am going to follow your advice on the flushing and go down to about 300 ppm on the nutes. I will also monitor my out take to see what the discharge is on ppm. With everyone else on this thread mostly using other brand of nutes it would help to get the perspective from someone using the same nutes as I am. Thanks for your input on this. I never even thought about the salt build up on the roots because of low volumes of spray. That makes perfect since. How do you gauge how much cal mag to add? At 300 ppm you are probally at a 1/5 or 1/6 strength to normal ratio. I started off at a 1/4 ratio and had about 375 ppm, and I only added silica. This got my roots to where I needed them. Them it seems my problems started from there.

the 3-1-2 ratio is the NPK ratio not the number of parts of each bottle you use. if you want some rough numbers this will get close to the 3-1-2 NPK ratio just put 17ml micro 14ml bloom and 8ml grow into 5 gallons of ro water. then dilute the mix to your desired ppm level. i usually try to go with 2-3 ml of calmag per gallon ro water unless i see some def. but usually i never do. the ratio is acullay not exactly 3-1-2 but is close and has a little more k and n but it has always worked well in my hydraulic HP setups from veg thru flower. i start around 150ppm and slowly bump the ppm up as i see the dtw drop to less than 50 percent of input. i try to stay at the 50 percent of input as it helps to keep from having to flush as often. but towards the end with trees in small(22 gallon) containers i sometimes had to flush every 4 days as the dtw would reach the input ppm. if coming from an aero cloner you might have to start at a higher ppm and then cut back on the ppms as the root structure develops into an HP structure(thats if the rig is capable of producing HP roots)

imo its very important to be able to get an accurate reading of the current dtw numbers as it helps figure out what to adjust the input levels to. once you have the data then its not as important to keep that close of the dtw numbers. but monitoring the dtw with a new setup and strain has helped on more than one ocassion to help me diagnos what the problem was. of coarse root structure will play a large part in what ppm levels you can run. the closer to lp root structures you get the higher ppm levels youll need to run and the closer you get to feather covered fuzz roots the lower ppm numbers youll have to run. it takes a while to get a feel for what you need but good record keeping can help. ive checked the dtw numbers every 2 hrs for weeks on occasions to figure out what i needed to do to correct something. there are alot of variables so dont change to much at once or you wont know what worked (this has happened to me before) :wall:

DIYer · Jan 25, 2012

tree farmer said:
ive always used GH and in the hydraulic nozzle setups ive had good success just using a NPK ratio of 3-1-2 and calmag mixing the 3 part GH flora series. the 1000ppm and even 700 is alot higher than i ran. ive run as low as 300ppm 4 weeks into flowering. now i could have probably used more p and k as the 3-1-2 is really a veg nute ratio but they always did well so i never bothered with any boosters or bumping up the p and k. flushing is something people overlook in HP. i flushed once a week (or sooner towards the end of flower)until the dtw ran at 30 ppm or less. if you pay attention the dtw will slowly creep up over a certain amount of time depending on chamber size , plant size, nute strength, etc. this has to be corrected or it throws the system out of balance. you can flush slowly by just changing over to ro water and run a regular mist cycle or you can do like i did and run 15-20 gallons thru the whole system all at once. And yes it does destroy the root hairs temporaryly but they come back quickly and the roots just love the bath. before i started doing this i had slow growth and all kinds of wierd shit happenning. but when i realized that with such small amounts of mist being delivered to the roots in a cycle you are going to have build up and this has to be flushed. this is especially true in small chambers with large root masses. when the dtw ppm is the same or higher than the input i flushed. even in my lp aero systems i flushed and it always made a world of difference keeping everything in balance. short mist cycles just cant flush the excess salts away in a developed root mass. my motto when i had problems with plant looking defiecencies was to lower the ppm. wait and see if things turn around if not lower it some more. wait and repeat. now if this doent work then id start going up slowly and in a couple of instances going up corrected the problems but most of the time it was lowereing the ppm that corrected the problems. also with very low ppms you cant go to full strength on the calmag because that would make up 90 percent of the total ppm. working the problem slowly and methodically will most certainly get the answers. ive never had a run i couldnt turn around. some took a long........ time but i got them figured out and then the next run with the same strain was a cakewalk.

hmm,... some reassuring and interesting info in this post. I too use 3 part GH flora series with no boosters, not even a need for cal/mag in my rig personally. I too think GH is pretty damn good by itself. I use to measure the ppm of my runoff, but not for the reasons you state, in hindsight, probably dumb reasons. Flushing is something i never do since going HPA, but if it solved a slow growth problem for you, i think i gotta give it a try, especially since i don't pay for water, ha...
I run a 2 week perpetual HPS, each plant in its own 5 gal bucket, and from clipping of clone to crop its about 6 months a plant. They'll end up roughly 4-5ft tall and 2.5' x 2.5' at there thick point but ya, still 6 mo a plant is kind of annoying. Good things take time i thought, it's the dankest smoke i've ever had, but maybe i give a super flush every 2 weeks a try and speed the goodness up?

Just for the record, i don't have an acc, im at round 5sec on/10min off, but i do get some pretty darn decent hairiness. I don't use RO, and the tap i start with is 500ppm, i have also hit 1000ppm after adding nutes with no burning of the ladies. Not your normal HPA (100psi) stat line so I've heard, but it's working for me with my strain of choice,.. which i think has a lot to do with everything.

Do you really think flushing helps that much TF?

For plants 4-5' tall and 2.5' x 2.5' around id be interested to know what folks think it should take to grow one from clone clipping to crop?

EDIT: just measured my runoffs,.. I've got 900ppm going into the veggies, 700 coming out. 900 going into the flowers, over 1100 coming out. 50% of input i am no where near,.. ha.. since not much seems to effect my ladies adversely im going to lower my input ppm, and flush tomorrow. I don't think it could slow um down anymore, lol

Trichy Bastard · Jan 25, 2012

dickkhead said:
also a lil off subject but when you guys flower you ever flip to 18/6 for 48 hours to increase yeild? if so at what point?

Never heard of that, are you inferring you veg in 24hr light? My ideal veg hours would be 18/6 and then taper down for a week into 12/12...

DIYer · Jan 25, 2012

.............sorry, dbl post

DIYer · Jan 25, 2012

i think he said when he flowers,.. so perhaps he meant go 18/6 from 12/12. Not sure if it really increases yield, and if done for only 2 days, what can you really expect as far as increase?....

i personally run 21/3 for veg and 12/12 for flower. I also go right from one to the other with no ill effects. How long you guys take to go from clone to harvest?

Trichy Bastard · Jan 26, 2012

DIYer said:
i think he said when he flowers,.. so perhaps he meant go 18/6 from 12/12. Not sure if it really increases yield, and if done for only 2 days, what do you really think it did?....

i personally run 21/3 for veg and 12/12 for flower. I also go right from one to the other with no ill effects. How long you guys take to go from clone to harvest?

I am planning on having my first full run with hp starting next week hopefully. I had to sort out this heat issue before I could go on properly. I am imagining around 3 months, but I am only vegging for a few weeks. I suppose the better question would be to ask people how long their flowering and ripening stage takes- since everyone's veg time may be different depending on how big they want them. I know I can pull 3 months in hydro, so I figure aero has to be at least as fast if my setup proves to be good. Usually 6-8 weeks of flowering depending on the factors. Your growth seems retarted (not short bus style, just slowed haha). I'd like to see a closer up shot of your roots, I beleive they may be fuzzy, but not hpa fuzzy. Probably the reason you are able to run higher ppms too. Isn't it exciting to know there is still room for improvement, and more to look forward to in ways of projects and improvements? No one is judging here, but we all want help, and to help eachother out. I really hope something in this thread can offer you some sort of ideas for advancing. I've already learned some from you...

DIYer · Jan 26, 2012

Hey,.. I've shown you my roots before,.. you ain't shown me shit! lol

I gave my tap a worse rap then it deserved,.. just measured again, and its 350 coming out of the faucet. I just flushed my flowering ladies with that straight tap, ran about 10gal through 4 buckets, then it came out clean as it was going in. Can't hurt!

Here is a shot i took yesterday of some roots. Quit saying there not hpa roots damn you

I run an 100psi hpa system, roots are full enough to block the misters, so there hpa roots. Like i said before, what da fucks it matter your micron size is if all the mist is hitting a wall of roots 2" away. I'm stuck in 5 gal buckets atm, so although i want to improve in other areas, i think roots are looking good.

Those roots are from my biggest lady atm,.. it's 4.5ft tall, 2' x 2' big up top,.. actually probably still is my biggest, but after taking this shot like a proud papa yesterday, my fucking bucket fell over! Stupid leg design on that one, my bad. Found her pretty dry and laying on the grow room floor this AM, she was horizontal without water all last night while i slept,.. broke a big branch off too,.. so sad,.. but she's very much still alive and will still probably produce more for me then any of that strain I've grown to date.

Oh and lowered res ppm to 600.. ill see how long it takes to run out high again..

Trichy Bastard · Jan 26, 2012

DIYer said:
Hey,.. I've shown you my roots before,.. you ain't shown me shit! lol

I gave my tap a worse rap then it deserved,.. just measured again, and its 350 coming out of the faucet. I just flushed my flowering ladies with that straight tap, ran about 10gal through 4 buckets, then it came out clean as it was going in. Can't hurt!

View attachment 2019745

Here is a shot i took yesterday of some roots. Quit saying there not hpa roots damn you I run an 100psi hpa system, roots are full enough to block the misters, so there hpa roots. Like i said before, what da fucks it matter your micron size is if all the mist is hitting a wall of roots 2" away. I'm stuck in 5 gal buckets atm, so although i want to improve in other areas, i think roots are looking good.

Those roots are from my biggest lady atm,.. it's 4.5ft tall, 2' x 2' big up top,.. actually probably still is my biggest, but after taking this shot like a proud papa yesterday, my fucking bucket fell over! Stupid leg design on that one, my bad. Found her pretty dry and laying on the grow room floor this AM, she was horizontal without water all last night while i slept,.. broke a big branch off too,.. so sad,.. but she's very much still alive and will still probably produce more for me then any of that strain I've grown to date.

Oh and lowered res ppm to 600.. ill see how long it takes to run out high again..

Well, that's one of the possible issues with tapwater- the ppm can change by the month or season, often a couple hundred ppm or so, so that's hard to have good control with. Also, you don't know for sure what exactly is making up those ppms. Obviously you have it fairly under control, because those are some pretty healthy and happy looking roots compared to most. Still need a closer shot to see if the fine hairs exist, but it's my belief those are falling just the tiniest bit shy of full blown hp roots, but I can't tell for sure from that distance. Have a feeling you might take offense to that, but I really hope you do not. They are still beautiful, and better than 99% of people's roots out there. The pressure of your system doesn't really make the roots in my mind, it's literally how the roots look that I would call them HP roots or not. The small micron mist views those root walls not nearly as "wall-like" as you'd think. The mist being so small, it can penetrate fairly deep into the mass. Something like a mosquito to a chain link fence is what I said the other day... The fact your crops seem to be taking longer means there is likely room for improvement even over your very nice results and roots. So, we can try to get you even better than you are if that's something you are interested in to possibly shorten your crop times. One thing I learned from Atomizer, whom I have alot of respect for, is that HPA is all about control. I feel you have looser reigns over some of the aspects of your grow that if you were to tighten, might give you some improvements. Things to consider would be larger rootchambers, accumulator upgrade, and r.o. water and a digital meter ph/ec (cringe)

. I do not know what your motives or desires are, if your looking to get the best results within reasonable expense and complexity, then you are already there bro. If you have that little fire of passion to see how much better it might be, then we can work on that too. In the end, I don't know if the expense and work will be a 1:1 ratio hand in hand with results, so that's definitely something to consider, especially if you pride yourself on keeping your expenses down and system fairly simple. Most of us in this thread are about trying to see how far we can push the envelope, but we also realize our passion is in the design and challenge, and not just the results. And we certainly don't judge anyone for not bein as obsessive as we are! There is something to be said for getting 90% of the same results, with only half the complexity or effort.

Trichy Bastard · Jan 26, 2012

P.s, I don't know if you have read the first 100 or so posts in this thread, but they do cover alot of the theory and gathered information from alot of the other best aero threads. Can help you to understand the theory and why's of why we do things the way they are done. Most of this is based on tree farmer's trail blazing, experience, and willingness to share that info- along with Atomizer. I don't really know anybody else in the world growing quite the same way, and also haven't seen root shots like theirs any other place either, except for g-love on uk420, but he disappeared ages ago, and was probably an inspiration to them if I could guess so.

TheTruSmokr · Jan 26, 2012

Do you like organic grow Trichy?

Trichy Bastard · Jan 26, 2012

TheTruSmokr said:
Do you like organic grow Trichy?

Yes, in my vegetable garden... But not in my aero setup, because it is just too much variables, and can cause nozzle clogs, etc. I don't think high pressure aero and organic are the best match for eachother. That being said, I am a food critic, and I have an extremely keen sense of taste and smell, and I have had just as tasty non-organic smoke. Neither way is better, it just depends on what you're trying to accomplish. In the end, the resuts are very similar in what the plant ultimately recieves. In organic the nutes must be broken down by microbes for the plant to fully utilize them, while in non organic, the nutes supply the form that is already 100% useable to the plant already, so you can sterilize your crop, with no negative effects. I am a bit of a control freak, and for me with aero, I feel I have alot more control with non organic. I can always blast with h202 or bleach if there seems to be any nasties running around- and it won't involve worried about my important microbe ranch going through a mass slaughter...

TheTruSmokr · Jan 26, 2012

Trichy Bastard said:
Yes, in my vegetable garden... But not in my aero setup, because it is just too much variables, and can cause nozzle clogs, etc. I don't think high pressure aero and organic are the best match for eachother. That being said, I am a food critic, and I have an extremely keen sense of taste and smell, and I have had just as tasty non-organic smoke. Neither way is better, it just depends on what you're trying to accomplish. In the end, the resuts are very similar in what the plant ultimately recieves. In organic the nutes must be broken down by microbes for the plant to fully utilize them, while in non organic, the nutes supply the form that is already 100% useable to the plant already, so you can sterilize your crop, with no negative effects. I am a bit of a control freak, and for me with aero, I feel I have alot more control with non organic. I can always blast with h202 or bleach if there seems to be any nasties running around- and it won't involve worried about my important microbe ranch going through a mass slaughter...

thanks man, makes sense. I might give it a try down the road, once I get a little bettter at this :bigjoint:

PetFlora · Jan 26, 2012

Trichy Bastard said:
Right, but the question is WHY it didn't work. Also, I am using a triple head fogger with ceramic discs, and blowing it all into a very small chamber of about 3 gallons. Perhaps the fog being more concentrated may help, or not- but I aim to find out. Somer people do claim to have some kind of success with fog, at least until a certain point. Lettuces and such seem to do fine, but certaian plants have higher demands. I did already grow a cherry tomato plant in pure fog, but the heat was over 90 degrees, and that must have had some part to do with why the plant grew slowly. The roots finally sat in condensate, and the experiment was tainted because it was NFT/fog hybrid at that point.

Since it consumed electricity, and went through discs, and was rotating jugs of ice several times a day, I decided to switch to a bubbler

True HP Aero For 2011

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member