ah, yea, no that's a speck different, if you were to use that as the base portion you'd have problems.
you want to use probably no more than 20% of your mix as manure, you'll still need some coco or peat as the "inert" portion of humus
i say that in parentheses because it's not inert at all, just WAY slower to degrade than compost does.
cow manure is good stuff to use, especially when it's well composted like that.
and you'll need to go reaaaal light on all the nutrients now, like VERY light.
in fact if you are going to amend past that i'd maybe go at 15% for the manure
use the extra manure to make a worm bin too, you'll be like 2 weeks ahead of normal that way
damn near an instant-wormbin
i'd layer the manure with whole tree leaves, and cover the wormbin with wet cardboard to keep the birds and critters from eating the worms
also keeps it a nice moisture too.
get like a 35 gallon smartpot for that and you are DONE.
in hindsight i wished that's what i did, took me a good 3 weeks to get the population going in my bin
i'd amend a good 2 cups of basalt to that, along with a cup of oyster meal if you are using peat as the base. (EDIT, the soil, not the worms)
to that i'd add a half cup of neem, and a half cup of crab meal and a half cup of kelp meal
you could easily go without any nutrients past the manure though.
also don't forget the aeration/drainage
for those i'd go with pumice, volcanic rock, and/or perlite.
at a 40% or so rate too
. > I also like 1 cup per CF for greensand, and about 1/2 for the alfalfa and fish bm. Hyroot uses a TBSP I think but most use 1/2 cup per CF, its quite strong. Alfalfa, you can work in half of through your castings so your mix is ready sooner and less hot, but that's just me, I don't like to mix soil too hot! Even with 2% kelp I can start right away usually even on babies, but the alfalfa, no way. I now double my kelp with half my batches and cut out alfalfa actually, and smells got better.