TUTANKHAMON and super cheese

Well these are goin outside and they got one more up pot to a 7 gallon smart pot so imma just mix straight frog and forest and no added perlite ... And iron or sulfer def huh , now what would cause that haven't changed anything with my
feed nor my water nothin all the same and there was a couple more yellow areas new growth Lower sets that was yella but they turned normal again just those two spots had got it ...

Yes I have grown Green House Seeds Train Wreck. Your plant looks similar but it's so hard to tell. Some plants are very distinctive but most all look the same. Kind of like people. Many look the same but a few freaks stick out.
As for if its a sativia or indica. Wait until flower. That is the real sign. Many are hybrids. So, they end up looking like both an indica and sativa and height is medium between the two. It's the trichrome change that usually only goes cloudy with sativia and their high is noticeably different.
As for Train Wreck it's like the name. Hits wicked fast and hard, short lived though... Like 1.5 hrs.
Hope that helps just a little bit if at all.
My Train Wreck buds were compact nugs not single big long buds. Also, I always super crop my tops.

Lower yellow by itself is nitrogen generally speaking. If you have been feeding adequately and everything else seems fine then it's probably something else.

Sulfer def is caused by High PH AND/OR too much Calcium

SheepsBlood said:

Lower yellow by itself is nitrogen generally speaking. If you have been feeding adequately and everything else seems fine then it's probably something else.

Sulfer def is caused by High PH AND/OR too much Calcium

Click to expand...

Oh, forgot to mention. Sulfer def will show on top and bottom leaves. It mimics a nitrogen def.

Watch some of the GROWBOSS videos on YouTube.
I think you will enjoy what he has to say.

Well they looked perfect before I up potted , I super cropped the one that leaves r yellow on Ive heard that new growth could show a defect cause of stress , my water from tap is 117 being a new pot and all that I've only watered a couple times and only used dimond nectar and rapid start at 1:4 strength every ting else has went smoothly and she looks good other then those two spots ... I have tested the ph of my run off actually the second watering from up potting and all the girls came out to 6.2 to 6.7 but the one main line it was a lil low to my liking of 5.8 so when I watered her I gave her a ph of 7.3 gonna check it the next couple times to make sure it stays in check , but
Other then that ph has been stayin 6.2 to 6.7 mayb .8 I try to no keep my ph the exact same everytime but keep it in the 6.2 to 6.8 range ... But I did give her pure water and rapid start today thou small dose I'll keep a good eye on her and see what happens what is a good fix for that def if is it iron .. I'm just wondering with my tap being 116 ish if that it's got low iron in tap water but bein this is the first issue I've had it leads me to believe that mayb the stress from the super crop messed her up some idk

Usually I don't base anything on PH as an issue. I mean it would have to be way out of whack. Like 8.0+
I bet it's a calcium issue.
Look at your petioles. The stalk running up the leaf. Is it purple on the back side? If NO, you have plenty of MAG so most likely you have plent of Calcium. Another sign of a lack of calcium/mag is the tips of the serrated edges and the very tip of the leaf turning yellow. Careful here because an abundance of nitrogen causes lead tip burn. They are similar but distinctively different. Purple petioles and tips of leafs and their edges yellowing and burning is a CAL/MAG issue. Just the tips is Nitrogen, plus you will see all kinds of other cool stuff like shiny green leafs very dark, twisted new growth...

The yellowing you have is quite advanced to be new growth yellowinh. New growth yellowinh typically only occurs when they are first erupting. Thereafter they green up.
You're has expanded into the leaf and doesn't cover the whole leaf.
If it were a new leaf and had that yellowing it would be over the whole leaf and be kind of uniform in color. Not splotchy like it is.

Yea I agree , but why would it only be on two lower branches on the tops and not all the lower branch tops .. I Dnt use cal/mag and never have had this issue before with any def , i haven't check the under side of the stems to see color yet but will in morning forsure . Not really any deformed growth or twisted growth the main line tut had a twisted leaf but there all good now .. Just this one lady . Just weird haven't changed a thing with my watering or feeding nothing , only thing ive done is super cropped and then transplanted like 4 or 5 days later but other then that nothing had changed .. So if it is iron what could I do to correct that ..

You can make your own solution of iron by taking some steelwool, like 00 or 0000 size and letting it sit in a hot cup of water, I say hot because that will speed up the corrosion process. Then when the water starts getting brown, you now have iron ready to dilute into a spray bottle. Use a teaspoon to a liter.
You can always wait it out. I dont know your plants like you do. Seriously, YOU are the MASTER of your plants. You know them like if they were your own kids and you have taken them to the doctor. You tell the doctor what you think the illness is, and usually the parent is more spot on than the doctor. So basically what I am saying here is, I trust your opinion before I trust my own due to the fact that you defiantly have paid attention to how you care for your babies. MAD RESPECT!

I busted out my analysis on my bottles my GH A and be both contain .05% iron and b contains .01% I used A mixed to a spray bottle , fonna try that for a couple days I just watered em like yesterday so it be a couple days before I water her again I'll just mix a batch of half strength a and b and try that if this folar feeding of a doesn't help . It hadn't got worse and no other lady has signs so I might get lucky .. But basically I'm
Looking for new growth to be normal .
The growth that is yellow now will pronly stay that way correct or am I wrong

It won't, you're right. Just new growth will improve.
Oh, I wanted to ask you about your nutrient feeding. Did you say your just feeding them Rapid Start pretty much? No main sources of NPK such as GH GROW, MICRO, BLOOM or FoxFarm Trio yet?
I start feeding as soon as I get my first set of leaves fully out and the 2nd set start. I do 1/4 strength, then on then next set of leaves, 1/2 strength, then full strength on the next set. I Feed, Water, Water, Water, Feed (FWWWF). Sometimes if they are hungry I FWWF, FWWF, FWWF

I use flora duo a+b flora plus, rapid start ,diamond nectar ,molasses . All full strength but first two weeks from seed I just water once the first set of leaves come I'll do 1/4 strength , but since I up potted and use ocean forest and happy frog and ocean is hot somewhat , and since my girls r older now I mixed more ocean then happy , so my first two were water and the 3rd was diamond nectar and rapid start and molasses ,, the 4th water and this next round b full run of nutes , full strength .. But clearly I guess I shoulda just watered em in with a and b .. But the thing is I potted 2 other plants in 5 gal containers same soil mix same water and feed method and that cheese is the only one that shows signs of iron , weird to me .. But I usually WWFwwF they seem to like that so been stayin with it .. I did read were a guy used A+B and used micro of the 3 part to boost his N basically making it I guess base 10-5-11 add subs making it just bout right acording to him but I didn't think u could double up on ur bases like that I've never done it but offen wonder since I'm just using the A+B if I'm lacking a lil bit
On the N IF U ADD ALL MY NUMBERS TOGETHER ITS LIKE 9-7-11 mix the 7-11 seem right but the 9 seems low and like to get it up a lil higher but I Dnt no all that math do not fuck shit up what I'm doin now is working just seems like I'm missing something small just something for that lil extra pop ya know ..

I was checking some clones I potted a few days ago. Looks like I have some similar yellowing. Not as bright but yellow. Then I looked all over and found it starting on random leafs, like middle or even bottom. It's blotchy and looks kind of like it's eaten through. Thinner in the yellow areas. I don't want to say its a mosaic virus but I just may have one. So I dumped 3 plants in the garbage today. I will see if it keeps spreading and if it does I will have to sterilize the whole place top to bottom and start over from seed. MONTHS OF WORK!!! I hope it's not a virus

Damn that's no good .. I take cuttings for my outdoor runs but I Belive start in from seed elimates a lot of problems takes a lil longer but in the case of something that u may possibly be dealing with if u have to start over is more time even lost , sucks hope it isn't what u tbink it is and u get it taken care of ... Imma run these autos for a year indoors and master it have to run more to get more but I feel I can master it and see what happens .. Always up for new and different for sure , beings there so much out there then when I was doin this a while back and pronly in ur case years ago ,... I'm interested in how our Tuts turn out in the coming months ...

I will post pics of the TUTS when I get my first yield. Then as it goes mastering it.
As for the possible virus issue. I may have jumped the gun but better safe than sorry. It could be a Sulphur issue also. I don't like milking things back to health. I don't have the time for it anymore. I just make a ton of clones and pick the healthy ones and then hope for the best. I run a few experiments on the side here and there to see if I can find some magical combo that makes things react better. Such as boosting root growth.
I have learned that the use of canna rhizotonic in my cloner once root numbs start ends up making those roots blast out. That plus a 1/4 dose of Bloom formula. Something clear though, I hate seeing roots get dark because then it can be difficult to see suspect root rot. As long as I change the water every few days I don't encounter that issue.

Oh, a side note for ya. If you ever want to get free samples and lots of them. Find a comparable and send an email showing them that you found one that is cheaper and has the same exact stuff in it. I did this with Botanicare for their Hydroguard. The guy tried bullshitting me about how their Bacillus Subtilis was somehow different than any other on the market. I explained there is only one species that has been found to demonstrate qualities that protect roots and fixate nitrogen for growing. The product I found was $250 for 1 liter but you could dilute that to make 55 gallons and still be way above their claimed bacteria count per ml. A week later a box showed up with 10 Liters of Hydroguard, a few stickers, some necklace thing that you can put stuff in, Rhizo Gel Packets, and 4 of those 250ml RhizoBlast bottles.

Damn hahha ... I got come canna boost and canna pk13/14 bee here in couple days ... Hope they work with my GH NUTES .. I've had good success with GH just tbink that there blooms and boosters r lil on the harsh side for my likings . But we will see I'll get it dialed in .. I've heard so much talk bout Advancses nutes but feel there over priced ... Canna is crazy priced but feel that everytbing I've read with there booster and pk that they have a great quality product from top to bottom .. ...

So how did u get all that free shit lol ,, I wish I had a box of full nutes and stuff show up lol ..

I got a question for idk if u no anything bout led but I've got two led illumitex and California light , 280 watts combined along with a 400w hid , u think that is enough light for a 4x4 ... Hard to get any kinda accurate answer from anyone cause being a hybrid system .. If u figure up the actually wattage of 400+280 680 w / 16 square feet is 42.5 per square foot , now the led company's say the 50w is equal to 300w hid and the 220 solar flare is equal to like 600w hid seems misleading as I didn't Belive this but my LEDs r mainly side lighting .. Gonna be upgrading to more LEDs after a grow there more money but less heat and what not ,, I did grow with only the leds for a few weeks and they made bushy ass plants I no they work just need more , they penetrate great also that's why I like em I can have em lil high cover more area and still get great penetration , what are your thoughts bout my set up ... I feel I'm bout average on the size grow but will be upgrading forsure ...

I don't have any experience with LED's other than an LED bulb I use for my clones. Just one I bought from Home Cheapo. I can say my buddy grow the same strains as me because he gets his clones from me and he uses 2 400 watt HPS's and yields up to 12-16 Z's. He usually has 4-6 plants in there and grows TREES not bushes. He doesn't do anything but use FFOF soil and uses the Fox Farm Trio. For me I wouldn't go by what manufacturers say about LED's until you see proof. Such as a white paper stating the PAR level over a 4 x 4 area. The PAR is what matters. Thats why I use an OG Style reflector. See how the bulb is vertical and there are no open areas where cooling passes through to take away from the reflected light. Not only that but the bulb doesn't get cooled down so much that it diminishes it's output. Check out this http://www.greners.com/reflector-test.html I do wish I got Raptors but hey we all make mistakes based on whatever reasoning. My reason I want raptors is because I need the spread. I know I chose the right ballast though. I love my ballasts. I use Hortilux bulbs but I am thinking of trying cheaper ones because my buddy yields as much and sometimes more for his wattage and he buys the cheapest bulb at the grow store. $20


I explained how I got Botanicare but for Nutrients I usually email a letter stating how I would like to try their products and how I have attempted to get samples from my local stores but they never have them in because of others being handed them or that they never have a full line up so I can try them.

As for ADVANCED... They are a complete rip off. Listen to those who tell you the same. I am not saying they are no good but you pay 4 or more times as much for them. In order to fill my 40 gallon REZ I would have to use a full liter of part A and part B of their bloom products. Also, when you look at their chemical, it looks watered down. As for CANNA, so far they have been great products and moderately priced. There is another brand out there called ROCK. Rock is pretty much the most bang for your buck from what I have been told.
As for me I prefer GH FloraNova. It's simple to use and does the job. No problems with a lack of anything. It's just a pain to shake that stuff cause it's as thick as mud and cleanup in hydro can be a pain. Though I have a big shop vac and rinse out, flush, rinse and then vacuum out the leftover crap at the end of a run.

i no canna wount sent samples I've read and heard that but I got the flora series to was gonna use that for outdoor grow got it in gallons , but I've read that it's a synthetic and will kill off ur benificials in ur soil ...idk I got 3 lbs of marine cruisine and that stuff u only need to use a few times during veg from what I've read that stuff is great for outdoor grow longevity but gotta no when u quit it and gotta flush which shouldn't be hard with my 7gal smart pots ... So imma try marine for veg and use 1/4 Marine and kool bloom to finish , if I broke down the Npk correctly to keep my nitrogen lower ... Should be good ,
Lol me and pops outdoor grows have consisted of put em in the ground and let me grow lil maricle grow here and here hahahha so gorilla like huh . So hopin I can dial in the new method ... I've never heard of rock , what hydro store sells that ???? I use sunspot reflectors bout to order another 400w hid should be pushing 800w hid 270w led supplemental , may have to turn the one 400 down half throttle or keep em higher but I feel I'm lil light on the w per square footage on hid only .. Enough to grow average but who wants average ...