Veg Tent Light Build

MattockMycol

MattockMycol

Member
Hi Everyone,

I have ten 2 foot strips of the Samsung F-Series Gen 3 (SI-B8T261560WW). Here are the specs for voltage and current.
Current - Test 1.12A
Voltage - Forward (Vf) (Typ) 23V

I want to use the lights solely for vegging. What is the largest area this could cover for vegging for 18 hours a day with at least 22 DLI? Can an HLG-240H-C1050B driver be used to power them?

Thanks
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
MattockMycol said:
Hi Everyone,

I have ten 2 foot strips of the Samsung F-Series Gen 3 (SI-B8T261560WW). Here are the specs for voltage and current.
Current - Test 1.12A
Voltage - Forward (Vf) (Typ) 23V

I want to use the lights solely for vegging. What is the largest area this could cover for vegging for 18 hours a day with at least 22 DLI? Can an HLG-240H-C1050B driver be used to power them?

Thanks
Click to expand...
You can run them with twice thatvwattage. Maybe three times.
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
MattockMycol said:
Hi Everyone,

I have ten 2 foot strips of the Samsung F-Series Gen 3 (SI-B8T261560WW). Here are the specs for voltage and current.
Current - Test 1.12A
Voltage - Forward (Vf) (Typ) 23V

I want to use the lights solely for vegging. What is the largest area this could cover for vegging for 18 hours a day with at least 22 DLI? Can an HLG-240H-C1050B driver be used to power them?

Thanks
Click to expand...
You may find some voltage drop putting 10 2 foot strips in series. Most people use parallel connections on these strips. Or even a hlg240h-c2100, 5 strips in series, 2 parallel loops.
 
MattockMycol

MattockMycol

Member
jarvild said:
HLG 240H-24-B is what you want for that set-up. I have 10 strips on a 45" long frame work that I use for veg covering a 2x4 area.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I am debating between using a 3x3 tent or a 2x4. What would be best to use before flowering with a 4x4? I will definitely pick up a driver that allows parallel connections.
 
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Chip Green

Chip Green

Well-Known Member
I have 10 of those same SamS strips on that same driver, on a 60" frame, and can get 25K lux below 10" from canopy if needed.
I'm fairly certain I could get satisfactory results in flower even, if I had it 4-5 inches off the tops of a scrog….
There would be gaps in the intensity of course at that level due to strip spacing....
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
MattockMycol said:
Thanks for the heads up. I never knew voltage drop was a phenomenon before your post. Generally, should strips be wired parallel and cobs be wired in series?
Click to expand...
I dont think there is a standard. Reasons for not going serial are:
- if the string is too long you might have a voltage drop
- i heard the trace, the inner connections inside the strip, sometimes isnt isnt prepared for high voltage
- in serial you cant get thermal runaway, but im fairly certain this issue is overblown. Ive not heard anyone on the site having it. And theres ways of avoiding it with voltage adjustment drivers, hlgXXX-24/48A
 
MattockMycol

MattockMycol

Member
Chip Green said:
I have 10 of those same SamS strips on that same driver, on a 60" frame, and can get 25K lux below 10" from canopy if needed.
I'm fairly certain I could get satisfactory results in flower even, if I had it 4-5 inches off the tops of a scrog….
There would be gaps in the intensity of course at that level due to strip spacing....
Click to expand...
Did you experience any voltage drop?
 
Chip Green

Chip Green

Well-Known Member
MattockMycol said:
Did you experience any voltage drop?
Click to expand...
Out of all the lights I've built, this is embarrassingly the ONLY one I have not checked the V drop on....Its the latest addition, and has actual heatsinks on each strip, so it actually never crossed my mind to check that out....I will have to do that. Ill let you know....
 
MattockMycol

MattockMycol

Member
Chip Green said:
Out of all the lights I've built, this is embarrassingly the ONLY one I have not checked the V drop on....Its the latest addition, and has actual heatsinks on each strip, so it actually never crossed my mind to check that out....I will have to do that. Ill let you know....
Click to expand...
Thanks. What did you use for heatsinks? Also did you use thermal tape?
 
Chip Green

Chip Green

Well-Known Member
Heatsink USA has a .601" profile, that fits nicely on the Samsung F series single row, and yes they are secured onto those sinks with thermal tape...
 
Chip Green

Chip Green

Well-Known Member
Yeah that's the only drawback on those.....Im pretty lucky, its a company in MI, so for shipping to my area in Upper MI, its still reasonable....
 
1

1212ham

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
Or even using 48V drivers running 2 strips in series and 5 loops. I find the 48V drivers more reusable than 24 V. Also easier with the wagos as you only need half the sockets.
Click to expand...
Half the wiring. (:
I drive EB Gen-2 (19.5v) with a 42v driver I already had.
 
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1

1212ham

Well-Known Member
MattockMycol said:
For where I am located, when you add up the handling and then the shipping for those heatsinks, the shipping and handling ends up being more than the heatsinks themselves. Damn.
Click to expand...
Aluminum channel or angle works well.
A shear and bending brake can turn aluminum sheet into channel.;)

Edit:
Check home stores and local metal shops/suppliers for angle and channel. I shear and bend sheet into channel cheaper than I can buy it. Some shops might do it at a good at a good price.

Flat sheet and baking sheets are also used. Look at the builds on RIU for ideas.

At rated power, Bridgelux EB strips can be run with no heat sink. Suspend on a frame with the tops exposed.
 
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