Wastei's Twisted 'n Misted Girls
- Thread starter Wastei
- Start date
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Thanks man. Sorry for being an ass the other day! Cheers!
Mellow old School
Well-Known Member
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Sprayed 10ppm of TRIA with aminos yesterday. Starting to get a hang on this Jack's 3-2-1 business. Added about 100ppm of Dyna Gro Bloom 3-12-6 for the added P. Doesn't hurt to lower K slightly either.
Seems to also have stabilized the solution. Didn't have to correct pH this morning. I may order another bottle of Dyna Gro Bloom. Still using it for my cloning trays.
The big fan leaves are starting to sugar up this early on, Hifi 4G Will be greasy for sure. Cheers!
Wastei
Well-Known Member
They've been trained since 4th node lol. Daily pinching and weekly supercropping. I don't like LST and the structure people get from doing it.
The Aero girls are going to be moved to another tent. Just saving the biggest Strawberry Akeil to flower..
I'm just starting up again so these are sort of the first moms. I'm transplanted some clones in soil and soon the mom tent will be up and running. I'm not going to flower all of them out just the top left. She will probably get dual scrog nets.
In DWC my RDWC system broke on me in early veg. The sealant had gone bad and started to dissolve in to the nutrient solution. Oil and roots don't mix very well. Then I said fuck it and just bought two regular trash bins to flower the first plants out. I need to be able to lift those when I do weekly res changes, but one of the DWC girls got trellis, just not visible anymore lol.
Old RDWC. Maybe I get the energy to fix it one day. Aero for now.
Last edited:
Rdubz
Well-Known Member
Wow impressive! I'm in the process of testing my cloner germinated 1 seed and it's been 3 days after it popped , I'm trying to get the spray intervels dialed in and I have some questions lol the roots are starting to take off and I think they look great but I don't know what I'm supposed to be looking for as far as it's to much saturation so I'm seeing a bead of water at the bottom tips of the roots should I back off the amount of time it's running is there a little hint I should be looking for they are starting to get the spine like look at the top but underneath it's more like a roman noodle . So I started with 5sec on 3min off it was good cause it needed more I tried less it wilted when I put it on 3sec on 3min off it was a great indication I needed more saturation so now I backed it back again to 3sec on 4min off after seeing growth , should I keep backing the on time down here's a couple pics
Attachments
Last edited:
Wastei
Well-Known Member
What type of nozzle do you use? Roots look healthy but I think the droplet size may be a to big. Pressure might be a little on the low side. I've never tried "tefen" nozzles but I think most people use those.
You want a nozzle with good wide spread that almost atomize the water immediately out of the nozzle. Mine are all covered in roots on the biggest plants but still produce good mist. I change the direction on the nozzles a little bit if I think they need it.
I run 3 seconds on and 3 min off. That's numbers from the NASA guy who started all this stuff. Always forget his name, probably a cool guy to hang out with!
I always transplant cuttings with well established roots from a DWC cloner. But your system may be different, never done Aero cloning but I would try longer intervals in the beginning like you're doing.
I have sort of a water buffer with the netting so plants have more than one way to uptake nutrients. My system broke on me but the chambers still kept moisture for hours.
You have to try different spray cycles. Hard to give a straight answer without seeing the system in person tbh. Nozzle type and location is important and distance from the netpot may decide what cycles you have to run in your system.
Pictures help
Last edited:
Rdubz
Well-Known Member
Ok so it's running at 100psi at start then as tank empties 85psi before the pump Kicks on I just received pressure regulator so I'm gonna have a constant 80psi to nozzles and yes they are Teffens and they do have the droplet size 60-50 micron and now u just got me thinking maybe I have too many nozzles there are 4 , 2 and 2 facing each other possibilities maybe micron droplets are merging? I'm thinking to try 1 second I was just being too cautious I guess,. And as far as Nasa goes I don't think it's possible to give a 3 sec 3 min answer it's not one size fits all , from what I have read most of the experts on RIU explained correct me if I'm wrong it depends on flow rates and psi obviously plus root chamber size and hang time to determine your spray intervels
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Of course it does
I just think it's a good starting point of reference for HPA spray cycles. Like I said to many variables to give a straight answer. Cheers!
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Thanks mate! Remember to pH the solution to 5.8. The results will be way more noticable and effective. TRIA, Aminos and maybe 30-40ppm of magnesium sulfate in bloom is a steady mix.
I alternate with mixing potassium sulfate and magnesium sulfate together with the foliar. Especially Epsom make TRIA more effective.
I don't have the science behind this, it's just anecdotal. Epsom salt is also naturally at pH 5.5 which make it easier to pH the solution to 5.8. Cheers!
Wastei
Well-Known Member
I spray from early veg up to 4th week in flower.
I spray about every 5th to 7th day in veg and flower. More so because I'm lazy and busy. Every 5 day is a good interval. I alternate every 5th day with 0.75 ppm of brassinolide in veg and 1.5 ppm Triacontanol with kelp/Humic and aminos.
Entering flowering and the day I switch to 12/12 I give them between 5-30ppm of TRIA regarding how well they tolerate it. TRIA is very safe to use, you will notice when you have overdone it, they turn really dark green for a couple of days. It acts as a "destresser" and can be used on newly transplanted cutting to combat transplant shock.
Brassinolide should never be used in flower even though I've seen products marketed "bloom booster" with it listed as ingredient. It's for building structure and root structure more than anything else. It will increase flower size but decrease quality if used in flower.
I only use BAP on well established strains, it's very tricky to work with and easily overdone. It also involves using caustic chemicals like lye to dissolve it in to solution.
BAP is sprayed once the week before entering flower, most plants can tolerate 50 ppm but I've had crazy strong phenos that could tolerate up to 150 ppm. It's a good tool to use on Sativas with uncontrollable stretch indoors. It keeps everything very even, stout and uniform grown.