Water: The Most Essential Compound

Cryoes

Member
https://studylib.net/doc/9001367/what-is--hard-water- When an entire community is so daft they have a 43 page long thread which is literally a copy pasta article.

This article is not really informative in the correct way and isn't even used to relate to plant growth.

Imagine being such a slimy piece of shit you plagiarize.

Next time give credit to the people that actually did the work.


Another stolen passage from here... Your sources are far from correct and you literally just ran around copy pasting things.. what an actual joke.

Literally word for word ripped quotes that take .5s to find using google. Shameful.




All you need to know about your water is you want the ph to be 5.8-6.2 .... you do not need 99% of the information you give..
Infact it would be more usefull to have an article explaining how to adjust your PH so your plants can efficiently absorb nutrients.

I don't feel like going through most of the articles you ripped as they aren't even related to horticulture...
 
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Dank bnk

Member
Water is water right? Wrong. I see a lot of growers that have all this knowledge about nutrients and photoperiods but know very little about the water they use and that not all water is created equal and some water isn't very well suited for growing at all. I decided to do this thread to help educate growers about the water they use and why it's important to understand "The most essential compound".


What is "Hard Water"?

Perhaps you have on occassion noticed mineral deposits on your cooking dishes, or rings of insoluble soap scum in your bathtub. These are not signs of poor housekeeping, but are rather signs of hard water from the municipal water supply. Hard water is water that contains cations with a charge of +2, especially Ca2+ and Mg2+. These ions do not pose any health threat, but they can engage in reactions that leave insoluble mineral deposits. These deposits can make hard water unsuitable for many uses, and so a variety of means have been developed to "soften" hard water; i.e.,remove the calcium and magnesium ions.
Problems with Hard Water

Mineral deposits are formed by ionic reactions resulting in the formation of an insoluble precipitate. For example, when hard water is heated, Ca2+ ions react with bicarbonate (HCO3-) ions to form insoluble calcium carbonate (CaCO3), as shown in Equation 1.

(1)


This precipitate, known as scale, coats the vessels in which the water is heated, producing the mineral deposits on your cooking dishes. In small quantities, these deposits are not harmful, but they may be frustrating to try to clean. As these deposits build up, however, they reduce the efficiency of heat transfer, so food may not cook as evenly or quickly in pans with large scale deposits. More serious is the situation in which industrial-sized water boilers become coated with scale: the cost in heat-transfer efficiency can have a dramatic effect on your power bill! Furthermore, scale can accumulate on the inside of appliances, such as dishwashers, and pipes. As scale builds up, water flow is impeded, and hence appliance parts and pipes must be replaced more often than if Ca2+ and Mg2+ ions were not present in the water.
Some Strategies to "Soften" Hard Water

For large-scale municipal operations, a process known as the "lime-soda process" is used to remove Ca2+ and Mg2+ from the water supply. Ion-exchange reactions, similar to those you performed in this experiment, which result in the formation of an insoluble precipitate, are the basis of this process. The water is treated with a combination of slaked lime, Ca(OH)2, and soda ash, Na2CO3. Calcium precipitates as CaCO3, and magnesium precipitates as Mg(OH)2. These solids can be collected, thus removing the scale-forming cations from the water supply.
To see this process in more detail, let us consider the reaction for the precipitation of Mg(OH)2. Consultation of the solubility guidelines in the experiment reveals that the Ca(OH)2 of slaked lime is moderately soluble in water. Hence, it can dissociate in water to give one Ca2+ ion and two OH- ions for each unit of Ca(OH)2 that dissolves. The OH- ions react with Mg2+ ions in the water to form the insoluble precipitate. The Ca2+ ions are unaffected by this reaction, and so we do not include them in the net ionic reaction (Equation 2). They are removed by the separate reaction with CO32- ions from the soda ash.

(2)


Household water softeners typically use a different process, known as ion exchange. Ion-exchange devices consist of a bed of plastic (polymer) beads covalently bound to anion groups, such as -COO-. The negative charge of these anions is balanced by Na+ cations attached to them. When water containing Ca2+ and Mg2+ is passed through the ion exchanger, the Ca2+ and Mg2+ ions are more attracted to the anion groups than the Na+ ions. Hence, they replace the Na+ ions on the beads, and so the Na+ ions (which do not form scale) go into the water in their place.
Figure 1

When hard tapwater passes through the ion exchanger (left), the calcium ions from the tapwater replace the sodium ions in the ion exchanger. The softened water, containing sodium ions in place of calcium ions, can be collected for household use.

Unfortunately, many people with high blood pressure or other health problems must restrict their intake of sodium. Because water softened by this type of ion exchange contains many sodium ions, people with limited sodium intakes should avoid drinking water that has been softened this way. Several new techniques for softening water without introducing sodium ions are beginning to appear on the market.
Great job bud :weed::leaf::bigjoint::blsmoke::joint::joint:bongsmilie
 

Holla4me

New Member
Hey guys. Very comprehensive information on water. Why don’t you just use rain water. I’m on a farm. No other water than rain water. Would it not be easier than buying water or trying to fix bore water that is too heavy in minerals ?
 

DillWeed

Well-Known Member
I think too much or too little water can be equally bad for marijuana plants. How much water any individual plant needs depends on several factors, including the stage of its life cycle, soil type, and temperature. As per my experience, cannabis plants have to be watered every two to three days
I completely agree with you. I grow indoors with soil and organic nutes. Once the plants are in their adult stage (last 2 weeks of vegging and all 9-12 weeks of flowering) I water them exactly every other day. I use 2 gallon pots and each plant gets a 1/2 gallon of water on each feeding. Regular water, then nutes, then regular water, then nutes, every other time. I’ve been having great results for over a decade doing it this way. I use tap water that evaporates/dechlorinates for 48 hours and then add PH down to make the water’s PH exactly 6.5 or so. This feeding cycle works like a charm when the plants are full grown adults… however, when they are smaller it is much more random. Sometimes seedlings and/or freshly rooted clones need a little water every day, sometimes they can go several days without more. It all depends on the medium, lighting, temperature, humidity levels, etc. there are so many factors. I’ve definitely lost some young plants due to overwatering and/or under watering them over the years. I have a very good system with adult plants and have nothing but success with them… it’s just those damn kids that drive me up the wall, haha! :bigjoint:
 
Water is a must for successfully producing marijuana and hemp, so ensuring there is enough for the growing season and tapping into an irrigation system are critical tasks for cannabis cultivators. The task is even more important this year, when many parts of the country are facing drought conditions.
 
Too much or too little water can be equally bad for marijuana plants. How much water any individual plant needs depends on several factors .
 

miegaliusvz

New Member
Sometimes it depends upon water Molecules In the liquid phase, water molecules arrange themselves into small groups of joined particles. The fact that these arrangements are small allows liquid water to move and flow. Water molecules in the form of gas are highly charged with energy
 

dudeoflife

Well-Known Member
TLDR; Just get a reverse osmosis filter, have complete control of your grow.

I cruised through 5 years of growing with sporadic problems here and there with deficiencies, lockouts, etc with tap water, and it CAN work. But once you jump on the R.O. bandwagon, no turning back. With a couple cheap pens you have control down to the PPM for every nutrient, and will produce a consistent product. Why waste time with workarounds?

The time I had spent troubleshooting PH fluctuations, nute lockouts, lesser yields, dying clones, etc- the $150 invested for a 3 stage system yielded a return almost instantly -- in soil, hydro, promix, coco -- across the board.
 

miegaliusvz

New Member
It's the changing of plants' pores closing at day and opening at night. Normal plants without this form of pineapple photosynthesis are excreting water unnecessarily by fishing kayaks. Causing them to die in hotter weather.
 

ardiem

Member
Water is water right? Wrong. I see a lot of growers that have all this knowledge about nutrients and photoperiods but know very little about the water they use and that not all water is created equal and some water isn't very well suited for growing at all. I decided to do this thread to help educate growers about the water they use and why it's important to understand "The most essential compound".


What is "Hard Water"?

Perhaps you have on occassion noticed mineral deposits on your cooking dishes, or rings of insoluble soap scum in your bathtub. These are not signs of poor housekeeping, but are rather signs of hard water from the municipal water supply. Hard water is water that contains cations with a charge of +2, especially Ca2+ and Mg2+. These ions do not pose any health threat, but they can engage in reactions that leave insoluble mineral deposits. These deposits can make hard water unsuitable for many uses, and so a variety of means have been developed to "soften" hard water; i.e.,remove the calcium and magnesium ions.
Problems with Hard Water

Mineral deposits are formed by ionic reactions resulting in the formation of an insoluble precipitate. For example, when hard water is heated, Ca2+ ions react with bicarbonate (HCO3-) ions to form insoluble calcium carbonate (CaCO3), as shown in Equation 1.

(1)


This precipitate, known as scale, coats the vessels in which the water is heated, producing the mineral deposits on your cooking dishes. In small quantities, these deposits are not harmful, but they may be frustrating to try to clean. As these deposits build up, however, they reduce the efficiency of heat transfer, so food may not cook as evenly or quickly in pans with large scale deposits. More serious is the situation in which industrial-sized water boilers become coated with scale: the cost in heat-transfer efficiency can have a dramatic effect on your power bill! Furthermore, scale can accumulate on the inside of appliances, such as dishwashers, and pipes. As scale builds up, water flow is impeded, and hence appliance parts and pipes must be replaced more often than if Ca2+ and Mg2+ ions were not present in the water.
Some Strategies to "Soften" Hard Water

For large-scale municipal operations, a process known as the "lime-soda process" is used to remove Ca2+ and Mg2+ from the water supply. Ion-exchange reactions, similar to those you performed in this experiment, which result in the formation of an insoluble precipitate, are the basis of this process. The water is treated with a combination of slaked lime, Ca(OH)2, and soda ash, Na2CO3. Calcium precipitates as CaCO3, and magnesium precipitates as Mg(OH)2. These solids can be collected, thus removing the scale-forming cations from the water supply.
To see this process in more detail, let us consider the reaction for the precipitation of Mg(OH)2. Consultation of the solubility guidelines in the experiment reveals that the Ca(OH)2 of slaked lime is moderately soluble in water. Hence, it can dissociate in water to give one Ca2+ ion and two OH- ions for each unit of Ca(OH)2 that dissolves. The OH- ions react with Mg2+ ions in the water to form the insoluble precipitate. The Ca2+ ions are unaffected by this reaction, and so we do not include them in the net ionic reaction (Equation 2). They are removed by the separate reaction with CO32- ions from the soda ash.

(2)


Household water softeners typically use a different process, known as ion exchange. Ion-exchange devices consist of a bed of plastic (polymer) beads covalently bound to anion groups, such as -COO-. The negative charge of these anions is balanced by Na+ cations attached to them. When water containing Ca2+ and Mg2+ is passed through the ion exchanger, the Ca2+ and Mg2+ ions are more attracted to the anion groups than the Na+ ions. Hence, they replace the Na+ ions on the beads, and so the Na+ ions (which do not form scale) go into the water in their place.
Figure 1

When hard tapwater passes through the ion exchanger (left), the calcium ions from the tapwater replace the sodium ions in the ion exchanger. The softened water, containing sodium ions in place of calcium ions, can be collected for household use.

Unfortunately, many people with high blood pressure or other health problems must restrict their intake of sodium. Because water softened by this type of ion exchange contains many sodium ions, people with limited sodium intakes should avoid drinking water that has been softened this way. Several new techniques for softening water without introducing sodium ions are beginning to appear on the market.
I have been getting my H2O from the watermill express. Have to add Cal/mag, but the growth improvement. Have hard H2O in house.
 

KennyV

Member
All I can say is that if you don't work for HM then they sure as hell need to hire you $$$. I feel like I been schooled this night. BROVO FOR YOU and a big THANKS for you KNOWLEDGE sharing. I sure know more than I did. I do have problems " I am a grower and I use RODI water , when it come out of my rodi it is 0ppm , my water runs from 130 to 145 ppm and of course it is hard water , I used it last year on my plants , none got much size to them for the hard water had my nutrients locked out of my plants , partly because of the soil I used as well. But I have 6 plants growing right now and the rodi water I am using on them is causing issues like I have never seen on cannabis before. Of course I am using cal/mag w/iron Humbolt brand . I am not sure of exactly what to do at this point because I am like beat coming and going. Hard water versus ro/di .I sware it looks like I have major pest issues but I assure you I do not. I have searched with a loup and nothing under leaves nor top of them but it looks like pest are eating and eating away at my plants. Take a look at these photos and if you know for sure what my deal is I would appreciate my 420 friends very much. This for sure aint my first grow as I am old school really. I know stop using the stuff and buy bottled water right ? But everyone says go for ro/di it good for your plants but use cal/mag " I AM "... Looking for answers before spring hits in about 2 1/2 months from now. O yeah , I did have some fungus knats Fox Farm ocean forest soil with a mix of pro mix hp w/ micorriz. "" don't have the correct spelling "" you all know what I have. Hey my 420 friends and HM employee's I would accept help from anyone that has the solution to my problems. Take a look at this.20220214_115350.jpg20220214_115206.jpg
 

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Lenin1917

Well-Known Member
Why do people feel the need to overcomplicate things. You’ve got hard water with high ec? Filter it, get an initial measure on your ph adjust to to 6-7(soil) 5.6-6.2(hydro) if you’re using salts make your adjustments after mixing. That’s it, obviously rain waters fine.
 

SoulMan63

Active Member
I'm not aware of any studies on this so to give you a definitive answer would be irresponsible of me. I think the benefit comes from the fact that you aren't putting "unknown quantities" of "unknown" mineral salts and compounds into your growing medium. I doubt that the purer water is going to actually leach nutes out noticeably quicker though. This is an interesting read:

http://gardenline.usask.ca/plants/ppwater.html

Give it a try. Your plants may like distilled or r/o better. I get my water from the grocery store machine. It's about $.25 per gallon if you bring your own jug and it comes out about 10-15 ppm. My plants like it much better than my tapwater (which is extremely hard) but I have to add cal-mag back in and depending on what kind of fertilizer you are using you may need to add something like it as well. :leaf:

I'm hardly a guru but I am honored and happy to help out where I can. :bigjoint:
Thanks
I'm not aware of any studies on this so to give you a definitive answer would be irresponsible of me. I think the benefit comes from the fact that you aren't putting "unknown quantities" of "unknown" mineral salts and compounds into your growing medium. I doubt that the purer water is going to actually leach nutes out noticeably quicker though. This is an interesting read:

http://gardenline.usask.ca/plants/ppwater.html

Give it a try. Your plants may like distilled or r/o better. I get my water from the grocery store machine. It's about $.25 per gallon if you bring your own jug and it comes out about 10-15 ppm. My plants like it much better than my tapwater (which is extremely hard) but I have to add cal-mag back in and depending on what kind of fertilizer you are using you may need to add something like it as well. :leaf:

I'm hardly a guru but I am honored and happy to help out where I can. :bigjoint:
doc111 I want to thank you for the sticky. I’ve been using machine filtered water also. So I should add some cal/ mag?
 
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