Powertech
Well-Known Member
Hey I really appreciate your input! I’ll have the ability to both lower current and exposure, so I’ll have to play with it and see what works
Watts per sq ft of UV LED?
- Thread starter Powertech
- Start date
Powertech
Well-Known Member
Not what we were talking about but thanks for playing. Why does everybody always have to bring in "their" light.
Gond00s
Well-Known Member
just putting facts 120 for a strip that only puts out that much WHEN u can just go t5ho agromaxpureuv one will cover a 4x4 paid 65 for each 4x4
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
There are several drawbacks with agromax:
Hanging height
Just as shitty or more life expectancy
Light distribution, but going with the cutter strip would be the same
Turning on and off a lot will wear if down
Hanging height
Just as shitty or more life expectancy
Light distribution, but going with the cutter strip would be the same
Turning on and off a lot will wear if down
Gond00s
Well-Known Member
very true but I have noticed that having to run them higher its better. it does the whole 4x4 nicely, I haven't noticed any real change with the uvs yet ill let u know how they fair in a few months. they turn on 45 mins a day but, they are in 15 min intervals then their off for 45 then back on etc for 45 mins.
haven't noticed any real loss on the uv reach yet but maybe in a few month.s but power I would have to guess it did lose quite a bit but, still does a amazing job after 4 months so maybe in a few it'll shit out but I can see the difference it has with my plants so I like running them.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
They work fine if you have a light which hangs high enough so that you can leave it on for a while without damaging your plants. Turning it on is what makes it lose its power most iirc. For a low hanging fixture leds with a beefy heatsink running not on complete max is a good solution.
nachooo
Well-Known Member
The best UVB led in market today is the seoul viosys regarding performance and self life, it cost about 20 $ each one..you need 4-6 leds per square meter...about 100 $. They should last about 3 years minimum...so 30 $ per year.. but probably less..uvb tubes should be changed every year...
This MIgro video you posted has been cuestioned by lot of people who knows what is talking about
I have used UVB leds and I have seen an absolute difference between using it or not....one of the advantages besides more potency and more colors have been much better pest control.. I have been used before reptile UVB tubes (exoterra,arcadia)and they worked but now I prefer UVB led for several reasons
Regarding agromax..has been stated here hundreds of time that has an incorrect UVA/UVB ratio and if you like the UVB tube route is much better to use solacure or arcadia brands...
Hey ! Thank you for this info ! Where can I buy them from ? How long / when do you run them?
Thanks !!
nachooo
Well-Known Member
I bought Them at digikey. I bought them mounted in a star board, not easy to find... I have used them all the plants cycle cause I wanted similar conditions than outdoors, but you can use them only in flowering time. I used 60mw output radiant power for a maximun of about 3,5 hours per day in one square meter area. If you dont understand what I am talking about. better use UVA/B fluorescent tubes..They are much more easy to use than leds, just look for arcadia brand or solacure. You can easy have your eyes and skin damaged or your plants if you dont understand how these leds works or how to power them....Also is better to add a control led to just see if the uvb ones are working..so you will need to have some solder skills and also find a suitable driver that provides a maximum of 150ma per UVB led..so you will need to calculate the voltage of all leds involves..including the control led...
Also is better to use at same time with UVA leds..so you will have to add other leds..other driver...if you want them in a different timing schedule...I insist..if you are new to this...just use fluorescent UVA/B tubes.... Is less cool but much more easier... Most UVA/UVB led bars sold by Cutter and other sellers are in my opinion bad designed and not suitable for little areas like 4x4 tents or similar...and also most sellers use 280 nm leds in their lamps/strips, this is a big error IMHO..they should use 285 or even better 295nm ones ,,but these are much more expensives than 280nm ones...so they use 280 ones.. that are much more dangerous for plants health and your eyes...
Wow. I'm new here thank you for that welcoming message bro 
Thank you for that info. I
I have been waiting quite a few years to finally get going on a few lights that I want to build. There are a few people involved (I hope we have the skills!)
My current plan outline is to build a light that has all the components needed for a complete run. (Without sacrificing too much by not specializing for veg/flower)
Attached is the prelim design based on my own findings. I believe it's overkill in some areas (maybe under in the reds) so would welcome any feedback.
I plan to start with these LED QBs
I will also ask them to customize their 50cm grow strips to fit my spec (They can do custom ones for 5 euro extra)
I also want to compare those German Boards to some highly rated QBs from China (these are 150w and Chinese ones are 120w if im not mistaken)
And I also will be testing some of these color strips to see if I can build these lights without too much custom buying!
The modules will also be controlled independently with these dimmers
a.aliexpress.com
What do you think on the red ratio / uv ratio / amount of color supplements / base white temperature / coverage in veg&flower for this design ?
F
Thank you for that info. I
I have been waiting quite a few years to finally get going on a few lights that I want to build. There are a few people involved (I hope we have the skills!)
My current plan outline is to build a light that has all the components needed for a complete run. (Without sacrificing too much by not specializing for veg/flower)
Attached is the prelim design based on my own findings. I believe it's overkill in some areas (maybe under in the reds) so would welcome any feedback.
I plan to start with these LED QBs
308 XT LM301H High-Performance KIT 3500K CRI 90 - CC module*
www.led-tech.de
I will also ask them to customize their 50cm grow strips to fit my spec (They can do custom ones for 5 euro extra)
I also want to compare those German Boards to some highly rated QBs from China (these are 150w and Chinese ones are 120w if im not mistaken)
And I also will be testing some of these color strips to see if I can build these lights without too much custom buying!
The modules will also be controlled independently with these dimmers
26.44C$ |Voice Control Wifi DIY Dimmer Switch Wireless Remote Control Module Smart Home Automation Lights Switches Works With Alexa|Dimmers| - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
a.aliexpress.com
What do you think on the red ratio / uv ratio / amount of color supplements / base white temperature / coverage in veg&flower for this design ?
F
nachooo
Well-Known Member
That german company has good quality leds..in fact I built my lamps with his samsungs and osrams..Wow. I'm new here thank you for that welcoming message bro
Thank you for that info. I
I have been waiting quite a few years to finally get going on a few lights that I want to build. There are a few people involved (I hope we have the skills!)
My current plan outline is to build a light that has all the components needed for a complete run. (Without sacrificing too much by not specializing for veg/flower)
Attached is the prelim design based on my own findings. I believe it's overkill in some areas (maybe under in the reds) so would welcome any feedback.
I plan to start with these LED QBs
308 XT LM301H High-Performance KIT 3500K CRI 90 - CC module*
www.led-tech.de
I will also ask them to customize their 50cm grow strips to fit my spec (They can do custom ones for 5 euro extra)
I also want to compare those German Boards to some highly rated QBs from China (these are 150w and Chinese ones are 120w if im not mistaken)
And I also will be testing some of these color strips to see if I can build these lights without too much custom buying!
The modules will also be controlled independently with these dimmers
26.44C$ |Voice Control Wifi DIY Dimmer Switch Wireless Remote Control Module Smart Home Automation Lights Switches Works With Alexa|Dimmers| - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
What do you think on the red ratio / uv ratio / amount of color supplements / base white temperature / coverage in veg&flower for this design ?
F
Quality is better than chinese products for sure, and if you are in Europe they have good prices..
Well and now regarding your design...
You have to change lot of things IMHO..
The base light is ok the ZEUS XT 3500
If you are going to use Far red in EOD treatment you will need the far red in a different channel/driver BUT..not as you design it...you only need about 5 watts of good Far red in that lamp.. so about 10 leds but you need a better distribution pattern...not all together in the center...
If you are not going to use Far red in EOD..as you are using in the main light the new samsungs CRI90 in the ZEUS XT ..you dont need extra far red..cause those samsung has more far red than previous led models..
You dont need a total of 30 UVB leds in that lamp! thats crazy and very expensive..you only need about 4 leds(285nm) considering the main light characteristics...and of course 4 leds well distributed....
And of course you dont need 30 leds of UVA 365...you can use less...althought more number than the UVB...you will need about 5-10% of your total watts in UVA...so find a good UVA led and calculate your numbers...
Your UVB and your UVA should run in different channels if you want a good control..as UVB is a high energy light..if you want to use it continuosly you have to run the leds at very little amperage ..which will need another driver than UVA for sure...
Again..you need better light distribution pattern ..your UVA/B light shouldnt be so hard in the sides..of your fixture...
Regarding the reds... You are using a total of 60 red leds..that is too much again...In relation with your main warm whites..you will need only about 20-25 red leds...And in my opinion a 50/50 mix of 660 and 630 is ok.. Of course with a good distribution pattern...
The blues and the greens are completely redundant..you dont need them at all..save money..your whites have plenty of this wavelenghts..you will be loosing efficiency also..If you want extra blues..choose wavelenght between 400 and 430..not 450nm..your whites has a lot of it yet...
just my two cents
Hey !
Sorry I had a busy weekend and couldn’t get to the computer
Ok fantastic info you really are a true boss.
I’ll get to work this week on the design and the electrical circuitry and will report back.
I will be making the first prototype with those LED-tech guys - they have been quite responsive so it should take around two weeks to get here.
as for the white Samsung base, we’re trying to make a light that should take the user the from seed to harvest. You recommend the 3500k as the base ? Would using a 3000k with a few of those blue 430s?
thank a lot again nachooo
Sorry I had a busy weekend and couldn’t get to the computer
Ok fantastic info you really are a true boss.
I’ll get to work this week on the design and the electrical circuitry and will report back.
I will be making the first prototype with those LED-tech guys - they have been quite responsive so it should take around two weeks to get here.
as for the white Samsung base, we’re trying to make a light that should take the user the from seed to harvest. You recommend the 3500k as the base ? Would using a 3000k with a few of those blue 430s?
thank a lot again nachooo
nachooo
Well-Known Member
If you find nice blue 430 you can add them to 3500 K or 3000 K , results would be ok anyway..cause both 3000 and 3500 lack in the 430 zone. But in every case you will loose efficiency cause 430 monos probably are not as efficient as warm white samsungs...Hey !
Sorry I had a busy weekend and couldn’t get to the computer
Ok fantastic info you really are a true boss.
I’ll get to work this week on the design and the electrical circuitry and will report back.
I will be making the first prototype with those LED-tech guys - they have been quite responsive so it should take around two weeks to get here.
as for the white Samsung base, we’re trying to make a light that should take the user the from seed to harvest. You recommend the 3500k as the base ? Would using a 3000k with a few of those blue 430s?
thank a lot again nachooo
You can use 3000 K or 3500 K from seed to harvest without adding any other light..and the new samsungs horticultural that the german website sells are heavy on reds so you can even avoid red supplementation with them...
Some people prefer 3000 K other 3500 K... Is up to you...
Of course you can add exotic wavelenghts that do not appear in the warm white samsungs emission..like UVB, UVA, and in general all visible wavelenghts below 450nm..and you can also add far red in a different channel to use EOD treatment ....
Keep in mind that adding exotic wavelenghts will increase a lot the final price of the lamp cause quality UVB,UVA and Blue leds are expensive...And also will reduce efficiency of the lamp.. If you are only interested in obtain the maximun gr per watt ..better to use only warm whites... but if you like better aspect and quality add exotics...and pay a little more in your electric bill.
For EOD treatment I would use the TEKNIK Buddies Far red product that Growlightsaustralia sells ..Easy to use , and best light spreading ,also easy to drive and cheap.
radiant Rudy
Well-Known Member
No youre mistaken..
What you "experienced" is actually only what you think and what you are capable of experiencing. Everyone's power of interpreration is limited by perceptions, discernment, assumptions/biases and lack of expertise.
Warpedpassage
Well-Known Member
Hello Nachoo,That german company has good quality leds..in fact I built my lamps with his samsungs and osrams..
Quality is better than chinese products for sure, and if you are in Europe they have good prices..
Well and now regarding your design...
You have to change lot of things IMHO..
The base light is ok the ZEUS XT 3500
If you are going to use Far red in EOD treatment you will need the far red in a different channel/driver BUT..not as you design it...you only need about 5 watts of good Far red in that lamp.. so about 10 leds but you need a better distribution pattern...not all together in the center...
If you are not going to use Far red in EOD..as you are using in the main light the new samsungs CRI90 in the ZEUS XT ..you dont need extra far red..cause those samsung has more far red than previous led models..
You dont need a total of 30 UVB leds in that lamp! thats crazy and very expensive..you only need about 4 leds(285nm) considering the main light characteristics...and of course 4 leds well distributed....
And of course you dont need 30 leds of UVA 365...you can use less...althought more number than the UVB...you will need about 5-10% of your total watts in UVA...so find a good UVA led and calculate your numbers...
Your UVB and your UVA should run in different channels if you want a good control..as UVB is a high energy light..if you want to use it continuosly you have to run the leds at very little amperage ..which will need another driver than UVA for sure...
Again..you need better light distribution pattern ..your UVA/B light shouldnt be so hard in the sides..of your fixture...
Regarding the reds... You are using a total of 60 red leds..that is too much again...In relation with your main warm whites..you will need only about 20-25 red leds...And in my opinion a 50/50 mix of 660 and 630 is ok.. Of course with a good distribution pattern...
The blues and the greens are completely redundant..you dont need them at all..save money..your whites have plenty of this wavelenghts..you will be loosing efficiency also..If you want extra blues..choose wavelenght between 400 and 430..not 450nm..your whites has a lot of it yet...
just my two cents
What is the mw per sq ft with uva , 365nm, you have settled on? I see you mention 5-10% of total watts, but im looking at two different 365nm leds, which offer about 400MW and 1000MW respectively at the same wattage.
Im only interested in adding uva and not uvb for this experiment. I dont need the flower to have higher thc, but would like to increase and enhance terpenes and other compounds that may benefit from addition of 365nm. So what do you think about 1000mw per sq ft of 365nm, one uva led per sq ft? On for 8-10hours during flower and veg. 35w per sq ft for led in 90cri.
Appreciate the feedback, many thanks.
nachooo
Well-Known Member
I have just awake so my mind is not in very clear state but...
I have used a mix of 365, 385, and 400nm , 30 watts in 1 meter square ...Dont remember exactly the real radiant output...but considering efficiencies and thinking quickly...your numbers seem ok, You could use probably a little more...but this is easily solved increasing the number of hours you use it..or if possible increasing a little the amperage of every led.
I just remember I used time ago 365 alone (cheap chinese leds) one or two times...I used a total of 25 total watts..so probably similar numbers considering the bad efficiency of those chinese UVAs I had..
Anyway I like your approach
nunyabidness420
Well-Known Member
Check this out for UVB/UVA wattage/area figure.
www.agricultra.com
I'm running at about 1/3 of their power rating and with a mix of 365nm and 395nm (as well as some 420nm cause how can you not have 420nm
).
Anecdotally it seems to work pretty well.
The MetaRail™ UVB+A Lighting Instrument — AgricUltra™ Advancements
The MetaRail is designed to deliver the industry’s most advanced UV spectrum and power density in the optimal ratio of UVA:UVB wavelengths to optimize plant attributes—such as improving flavour in strawberries and increasing THC levels in Cannabis plants.
www.agricultra.com
I'm running at about 1/3 of their power rating and with a mix of 365nm and 395nm (as well as some 420nm cause how can you not have 420nm
).Anecdotally it seems to work pretty well.