What else do you mix with your 'feeding' on 'water only' days?

Triplec

Well-Known Member
Normally I feed nutes once a week with a watering in between. A feeding/watering normally comes about every 4 days for me. During veg I just do water and then during flower I do a water/molasses mix. What other things do you guys do?
 

az2000

Well-Known Member
Normally I feed nutes once a week with a watering in between. A feeding/watering normally comes about every 4 days for me. During veg I just do water and then during flower I do a water/molasses mix. What other things do you guys do?
Why do you alternate feedings? (Have you tried feeding less every watering?).

I feed molasses (1/8-1/4tsp/gal) in veg too, it promotes soil microbes.
 

Triplec

Well-Known Member
Why do you alternate feedings? (Have you tried feeding less every watering?).

I feed molasses (1/8-1/4tsp/gal) in veg too, it promotes soil microbes.
I have all BioBizz nutes and I follow their feeding chart. I suppose I could do what you say but it would make following that schedule difficult.
 

calicocalyx

Well-Known Member
I give 2 "plain" waterings between feedings. The plain water has hygrozyme (EWC teas are way better) for 1 watering, the 2nd is liquid karma or just plain kelp. I'll also periodically add beneficials if I don't do the tea (which gets beneficials added).
 

Botonist

Well-Known Member
I like feeding every watering with 3/4 strength and flush every ten days, I grow in coco though..
 

Triplec

Well-Known Member
I think it's common for people using more natural/organic feed (like BB) to feed "innoculants" during water only. Teas, myco. You'd probably get better ideas in the organic forum.
I give 2 "plain" waterings between feedings. The plain water has hygrozyme (EWC teas are way better) for 1 watering, the 2nd is liquid karma or just plain kelp. I'll also periodically add beneficials if I don't do the tea (which gets beneficials added).
I've water to try these teas but haven't found much consistent info on them. Do you guys have a recipe or a site use you to get that info?
 

calicocalyx

Well-Known Member
1 tablespoon per gallon blackstrap molasses, 1 cup wormcastings per 5 gallon, 1 tsp per gallon rootzone ( really just eyeball it, the idea is that the organisms will reproduce in the tea) bubble for 36 hours. This is a basic tea that won't burn or anything, once you start adding guanos or any real nutes you'll want to dilute the finished product. You could also add kelp ( I use old age). hygrozyme is expensive for what it is, I'm just finishing off a bottle then going back to the teas. I also will do an extra tea if the plants are stressed for any reason. Those micro organisms will reach a balance in the dirt and will die off if they aren't fed or too wet or too dry, so I think it's good to constantly re innoculate.
 

Triplec

Well-Known Member
1 tablespoon per gallon blackstrap molasses, 1 cup wormcastings per 5 gallon, 1 tsp per gallon rootzone ( really just eyeball it, the idea is that the organisms will reproduce in the tea) bubble for 36 hours. This is a basic tea that won't burn or anything, once you start adding guanos or any real nutes you'll want to dilute the finished product. You could also add kelp ( I use old age). hygrozyme is expensive for what it is, I'm just finishing off a bottle then going back to the teas. I also will do an extra tea if the plants are stressed for any reason. Those micro organisms will reach a balance in the dirt and will die off if they aren't fed or too wet or too dry, so I think it's good to constantly re innoculate.
So you'd mix your normal nutes with the tea? And thank for this btw!
 

calicocalyx

Well-Known Member
not usually, it's more for between feedings but you could do it and be fine, for me it's about helping to speed up the breakdown of nutrients in the soil to help avoid potential build up and lock out.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
1 tablespoon per gallon blackstrap molasses, 1 cup wormcastings per 5 gallon, 1 tsp per gallon rootzone ( really just eyeball it, the idea is that the organisms will reproduce in the tea) bubble for 36 hours. This is a basic tea that won't burn or anything, once you start adding guanos or any real nutes you'll want to dilute the finished product. You could also add kelp ( I use old age). hygrozyme is expensive for what it is, I'm just finishing off a bottle then going back to the teas. I also will do an extra tea if the plants are stressed for any reason. Those micro organisms will reach a balance in the dirt and will die off if they aren't fed or too wet or too dry, so I think it's good to constantly re innoculate.
Hmm, really? Adding a zyme/myco supplement is VERY unneeded when starting with fresh Worm Castings as they contain the enzymes your looking to grow with the brewing of the tea,,,you might use 1/3 alfalfa meal to that as that will boost your living bio counts too.
You should know that adding a liquid Kelp product to tea brewing actually LOWERS living cell counts by as much as 40-45% in total for 48hr brewed teas! I've done the bio counts myself under microscopes......Kelp meals are far better, but I would still opt for that in my soil building and not so much an AACT tea - - Alfalfa meal would do better....you should know that the Kelp will add micro's/Humic's and Fulvic"s and other things too.....Be aware of listed NPK and what else it will bing to the party because much of the nutritional value will be sent to the tea by brewing.

Want to learn about organic?
http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microbes-Organic-Gardeners-Revised/dp/1604691131
The chapter on teas is worth the price of the book!

Here is info you might want OP
http://www.gardeningwithmicrobes.com/aact.shtml
www.gardeningwithmicrobes.com/teaarticle2.shtml

http://www.treehugger.com/lawn-garden/how-to-make-compost-tea-why-you-should.html

http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/aerated-compost-tea-zebz1307zsie.aspx

This is a nice post from friends on other sites..
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=231159
 

Triplec

Well-Known Member
Hmm, really? Adding a zyme/myco supplement is VERY unneeded when starting with fresh Worm Castings as they contain the enzymes your looking to grow with the brewing of the tea,,,you might use 1/3 alfalfa meal to that as that will boost your living bio counts too.
You should know that adding a liquid Kelp product to tea brewing actually LOWERS living cell counts by as much as 40-45% in total for 48hr brewed teas! I've done the bio counts myself under microscopes......Kelp meals are far better, but I would still opt for that in my soil building and not so much an AACT tea - - Alfalfa meal would do better....you should know that the Kelp will add micro's/Humic's and Fulvic"s and other things too.....Be aware of listed NPK and what else it will bing to the party because much of the nutritional value will be sent to the tea by brewing.

Want to learn about organic?
http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microbes-Organic-Gardeners-Revised/dp/1604691131
The chapter on teas is worth the price of the book!

Here is info you might want OP
http://www.gardeningwithmicrobes.com/aact.shtml
www.gardeningwithmicrobes.com/teaarticle2.shtml

http://www.treehugger.com/lawn-garden/how-to-make-compost-tea-why-you-should.html

http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/aerated-compost-tea-zebz1307zsie.aspx

This is a nice post from friends on other sites..
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=231159
Awesome. I will check this out. Thanks!!
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I have all BioBizz nutes and I follow their feeding chart. I suppose I could do what you say but it would make following that schedule difficult.
You should NEVER follow a chart. Plants are dynamic regarding feeding. The charts are meant to suck in newbies resulting in an higher profits.

Don't mean to sound brash but if you need to follow a chart, you shouldn't be growing.

UB
 

bigsteve

Well-Known Member
I've been using small pots, 1-2gallon, lately so I nute-water every day at 50% package suggestion.

BigSteve.
 

calicocalyx

Well-Known Member
Hmm, really? Adding a zyme/myco supplement is VERY unneeded when starting with fresh Worm Castings as they contain the enzymes your looking to grow with the brewing of the tea,,,you might use 1/3 alfalfa meal to that as that will boost your living bio counts too.
You should know that adding a liquid Kelp product to tea brewing actually LOWERS living cell counts by as much as 40-45% in total for 48hr brewed teas! I've done the bio counts myself under microscopes......Kelp meals are far better, but I would still opt for that in my soil building and not so much an AACT tea - - Alfalfa meal would do better....you should know that the Kelp will add micro's/Humic's and Fulvic"s and other things too.....Be aware of listed NPK and what else it will bing to the party because much of the nutritional value will be sent to the tea by brewing.

Want to learn about organic?
http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microbes-Organic-Gardeners-Revised/dp/1604691131
The chapter on teas is worth the price of the book!

Here is info you might want OP
http://www.gardeningwithmicrobes.com/aact.shtml
www.gardeningwithmicrobes.com/teaarticle2.shtml

http://www.treehugger.com/lawn-garden/how-to-make-compost-tea-why-you-should.html

http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/aerated-compost-tea-zebz1307zsie.aspx

This is a nice post from friends on other sites..
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=231159
Good to know about the bio counts. I mentioned the hygrozyme specifically because I'm only using it because I happen to have a bottle and I stated that I will go back to teas after the bottle is gone. Otherwise the worm castings alone are enough, just wanted to give some options for people that wouldn't burn the plants and to note that hygrozyme is an expensive product that one can make on their own for way cheaper. I also stated that the hygrozyme was for the "plain" water but aerobic teas are way better. Thanks for the info/links. It's always good to refresh ones forgotten knowledge base.
 
Last edited:

az2000

Well-Known Member
You should NEVER follow a chart. Plants are dynamic regarding feeding. The charts are meant to suck in newbies resulting in an higher profits.
That's true if someone uses an all-purpose 1-1-1 NPK ratio product. But, when someone uses a multi-bottle "lineup" they risk creating wild NPK ratios if they try make it up themselves. Another member recently posted about deficiencies. It appeared he thought using a bloom booster product by itself was adviseable. He was feeding NPK ratio 1-70-50. In that case, following the schedule would have been preferrable.

But, I agree that using a no-frills 1-1-1 product is preferable to the cannabis-themed products.
 

Triplec

Well-Known Member
You should NEVER follow a chart. Plants are dynamic regarding feeding. The charts are meant to suck in newbies resulting in an higher profits.

Don't mean to sound brash but if you need to follow a chart, you shouldn't be growing.

UB
It's not like a follow it precisely, it's more of a guide. I'm proud of my growing accomplishments so far so you should check your high and mighty attitude, And yes you actually do mean to do that, Lol.
 
Last edited:

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
That's true if someone uses an all-purpose 1-1-1 NPK ratio product. But, when someone uses a multi-bottle "lineup" they risk creating wild NPK ratios if they try make it up themselves. Another member recently posted about deficiencies. It appeared he thought using a bloom booster product by itself was adviseable. He was feeding NPK ratio 1-70-50. In that case, following the schedule would have been preferrable.

But, I agree that using a no-frills 1-1-1 product is preferable to the cannabis-themed products.
I have used with great success a 18-4-9 slow release from start to finish. Then again, I understand that's it's leaves that drive production, not charts or cannabis products.

Uncle Ben
 
Top