what's wrong with my plant ???

canman1

New Member
Hi all

After putting to sleep 2 out of my 3 plants (for being males), my third and last plant is showing unhealthy signs.
The other 2 (males) were very healthy and showed good signs of (male) flowering after 2 weeks of 12/12.
The third one is in it's 3rd week of 12/12 and still no distinct flowering signs at all....
most of it's fan leaves have fallen off and the rest is not looking so good either.
The weird thing is that all 3 (although not from the same strain) were grown in the same conditions...
Can it be heath stress ? the temperature is a bit high - ~32C / 89F.
pics:
IMG_8038.jpgIMG_8039.jpg

Thanks.
 

canman1

New Member
I'm using a regular store-bought soil mixture.
I added to it a while ago a little bit of Humus.
I also switched fertilizer 3 weeks ago (in coordination with switching to 12/12) from N/P/K=10/7/9 to 3/7/5 (flower fertilizer that contains also other micro-elements such as copper. iron etc.)
I add the fertilizer as instructed, about every 2 weeks.
 

MrBloomer

Member
omg where to start, your plant is in a right state, Plant firstly looks:
1: over watered (droopy lack luster appearance) let pots dry at least 50% before re-watering (do not keep pots saturated)
2: Nutrient deficiency: Plants will need feeding every 3rd watering as a rule of thumb, every 2 weeks is far too long between giving it food, hence the deficiency..
£: yes 32 is hot but i've grown at those temps with few problems
Also what are the ph levels and nutrient levels are you feeding this sick girl with ? Or are you guessing levels ?
 

MrBloomer

Member
Re-reading your post it's obvious your not using a ph meter or an ec meter or even the right nutrients for that matter. Go buy these essential ingredients before you try and grow anything... or you'll be wasting all of your time and effort.
 
That looks like heat stress to me... Leaves curled under. A good temp for plants is in the low to mid seventies with a humidity of 50-60% (from my limited experience). What kind of air circulation do you have, What kind of soil you using and What is the PPM of your nutrients because burned tips could indicate over fertilizing. they look a little thin in the stalk which may mean the air circulation is poor. Im thinking the high temp and fertilizer issues may exist. Check the PH of your soil, the PPM of your drain water when you water (could be a nutrient lock issue as well if your PH is off). Hopefully others with more experience will chime in but thats just my 2 cents friend.
 

canman1

New Member
Hi
I know, it's my first grow and I've done most of the possible mistakes... (even after I read and prepared myself).
1. I know that the shape of the leaves shows over-watering, but I do wait sometimes even 5 days between each watering and check that the soil is dry.
2. I was afraid of over-nutrients damage (unrecoverable, so I've heard) so I kept to what was written on the fertilizer bottle.... I'll try to add more and more often.
regarding the ph level, I had some problems in the beginning, because the PH meter I bought showed weird results, by the time I got me a Litmus-paper I understood that the water I was using was to alkalined (PH around 8-9). I switched to distilled water (PH 7). I've also tried to reverse the alkaline and added water with PH 4-5 to the soil a couple of times. I've also noticed that the fertilizer itself is acidic( PH = 5).
Now I'm not sure if the nutrient deficiency is due to wrong levels of PH or due to not enough fertilizing.
I've also noticed that the soil has become darker and compressed.
I also came into a conclusion that the pot was too small (around 4 liters), but I read that I shouldn't move it into a bigger one once I started flowering.
I'm lost... What should I do ?
 
You shouldnt wait until the soil is completely dry before watering, if you dont have a reliable moisture meter ou can use your fingers and feel down a couple inches into the soil. when the first 2 inches or so is dry its time to water. Also be very careful with commercially prepared fertilizers. From my own personal experience (I use floragro series for my hydro set up), its better to go with less than more. For example, I usually cut what the feedin on my product says in half because the full dose was giving me around 1600 PPM on my TDS meter.... I found this to be WAAAAY too high for my precious, so I had to find a happy medium while watching for signes of overdoing it or underdoing it. A good PH meter is less than 20 bucks as well as a good TDM meter for measuring PPM. Since it looks like your growing in soil, when you water your plant catch some of the drainage in a bucket and test the PH. You should keep the Ph between 5.5 and 6.5 to prevent nutrient lockout. I keep mine at an even 6.0 or close to it and it seems to work well (see attached pic of my first grow learning experience). If your fertilizer is acidic, once you test your drainage water add some Ph up or Ph down to the jug of nutrients you premix until you reach 6.0 or so. If your soil is alkaline you can lower it even more to compensat I would believe... key is once the nutrient solution is PH'ed, water and then check the Ph of the drainage as well after awhile I think you will get the pattern down pat how much PH adjusting you need to do.
 

Attachments

Test your run off for PH, if your Ph is good, I would Feed it. Looks like it has a N/P/K issue slightly lime green leaves, and it showing deformed leaves kind smooth looking, which is a P/K issue. It also looks like a micro issue. But if your under feeding majors the minors will be def to. Change one thing at a time, Ph first and then up feedings slightly till new growth looks good to you. If you were like me, I was afraid of killing them after reading all the nute burn horror stories, and I under fed as well. Good luck and happy growing
 

canman1

New Member
Also an update:
I've measured the PH levels before and after watering...
I know ot would be better if I did it only with water, but it's nutrients time. so:
Clean Water : PH=7
Water + fertilizer: PH=3.5
Water coming out of the bottom: PH=5.5 to 6.5
My conclusion: as I thought the soil is too alkaline which leads to nutrient lock.
I'v also sprayed the leaves with a diluted fertilizer in order to give the plant another way to absorb nutes... (was that ok ?)
still waiting for an answer, I suspect that the flowerpot is too small. can I move it to another one in this stage ?

10x
 

LetsGetCritical

Well-Known Member
You shouldnt wait until the soil is completely dry before watering, if you dont have a reliable moisture meter ou can use your fingers and feel down a couple inches into the soil. when the first 2 inches or so is dry its time to water. Also be very careful with commercially prepared fertilizers. From my own personal experience (I use floragro series for my hydro set up), its better to go with less than more. For example, I usually cut what the feedin on my product says in half because the full dose was giving me around 1600 PPM on my TDS meter.... I found this to be WAAAAY too high for my precious, so I had to find a happy medium while watching for signes of overdoing it or underdoing it. A good PH meter is less than 20 bucks as well as a good TDM meter for measuring PPM. Since it looks like your growing in soil, when you water your plant catch some of the drainage in a bucket and test the PH. You should keep the Ph between 5.5 and 6.5 to prevent nutrient lockout. I keep mine at an even 6.0 or close to it and it seems to work well (see attached pic of my first grow learning experience). If your fertilizer is acidic, once you test your drainage water add some Ph up or Ph down to the jug of nutrients you premix until you reach 6.0 or so. If your soil is alkaline you can lower it even more to compensat I would believe... key is once the nutrient solution is PH'ed, water and then check the Ph of the drainage as well after awhile I think you will get the pattern down pat how much PH adjusting you need to do.
I'm sorry but I don't think this plant looks very happy either bro
 

Jamesfredette

New Member
maybe the too must usage of fertilizers has caused them a poor growth and health, i think it needs to be controlled next time when being used regularly..
 

wantbud82

Member
I have never ph tested,infact I've only just brought my self a thermometer and I've been growing 5 year. Never had a sick plant,always had good results.
 

wantbud82

Member
I don't think there's any time for your plants to repair,in the process of budding they are already dieing. The pictures show some messed up plants,there's no coming back from that.
 

canman1

New Member
I don't think there's any time for your plants to repair,in the process of budding they are already dieing. The pictures show some messed up plants,there's no coming back from that.
I actually feel that there's some hope.
there are some healthy looking parts and I think it started budding at last...
 

wantbud82

Member
It will bud sure that's what they do I ment don't expect your plant to look healthy again because its gonna put all its energy into producing buds now. :lol:
 
My plant isn't perfect... but not too shabby for a first time grow.... if you could pinpoint your observations so I can improve its condition id be much obliged ombre
 
Top