When is it no longer a seedling?

malicifice

Well-Known Member
Just wondering what ever body else think's. When do you consider it a small plant in vegging versus a little seedling that just popped. 2-3 nodes, a full fan leaf, a week old? I usually go about 2 week's from seed before I consider it old enough to be in the vegetative cycle.
 

Bucees

Well-Known Member
I just go with 2 weeks from seed too. Usually have a few decent fan leaves and growth begins to speed up around then.
 

GelenaAK420

Well-Known Member
The seedling stage is usually over when you start getting leaves with their maximum amount of fingers. Other indications will include a stem with a thickness of around 4-6mm and a height of around 3-4 nodes. :peace:
 

sensimilla86

Active Member
Just wondering what ever body else think's. When do you consider it a small plant in vegging versus a little seedling that just popped. 2-3 nodes, a full fan leaf, a week old? I usually go about 2 week's from seed before I consider it old enough to be in the vegetative cycle.
is this generally when you will begin to add nuets or is this to early still
 

GelenaAK420

Well-Known Member
is this generally when you will begin to add nuets or is this to early still
I've been told not to add anything until they have at least 3 sets of 3 blade leaves. They work with a soil mix which contains absolutely nothing for nutrients so I can't comment on how strong the soil you are using is. The only thing i can say is when you do add nutrients aim very low... like 1/4 strength when they are that young. :peace:
 

GelenaAK420

Well-Known Member
I call them seedlings until the first branch grows about an inch, or sex is pre-determined.
I never knew that you can predetermine the sex at such an early age. I heard that you can notice small differences in the sexes like the male plants are typically taller and do not contain as many branches when they are heading towards vegetative growth, and female plants are normally fuller with many more branches. I figured that this would only give you a general idea of which plants are which gender. But is there something that people do or look for to be able to know for sure....? ? Thanks
 

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
What I personally do.......

I run clones, and General Hydroponics nutrient formula, I just run properly PH'd water with a touch of nitrogen and micronutes, after they've rooted and put them in 5 gallon DWC's. After 3 weeks, they go in to budding.

Then I will run full strength veggie formula until the budding sites start showing good growth, then I switch to "Transition to budding" formula, and then finish off the last 2 - 3 weeks with full budding formula.
 

GelenaAK420

Well-Known Member
What I personally do.......

I run clones, and General Hydroponics nutrient formula, I just run properly PH'd water with a touch of nitrogen and micronutes, after they've rooted and put them in 5 gallon DWC's. After 3 weeks, they go in to budding.

Then I will run full strength veggie formula until the budding sites start showing good growth, then I switch to "Transition to budding" formula, and then finish off the last 2 - 3 weeks with full budding formula.
Dam that's awsome . Never heard someone doing it that way (I'm very new to this) Thanks for the insight. :peace:
 

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
I never knew that you can predetermine the sex at such an early age.
Well, its definitely not an exacting science, that's for certain, however, I do whatever I can to increase my chances. After years of experience, you can almost tell the differences with a good deal of accuracy.

Sometimes, they will pop pre-flowers in the 3rd to 4th weeks, and if you look close enough, use your photographers loupe that you use to tell if your buds are done, to see if the pod has a little slit in it and sits on NO stem and isn't round but, more ovule shaped... that is PROBABLY a female, but you won't be able to tell for sure until it shoots out a hair. (i've seen them like this and they turn out to be frickin males too, more times than not, they're female though)

Like over the years, I've noticed that if I run my hand over a male plant, vs one that is possibly female, the female will be a bit more pungent, and your hand will come away a bit more sticky...

In general.... the male will be taller than the female and lean towards the female..
Males will also "Stretch" and won't have as complex of a branching structure, and their nodes will have more spacing and their grow tips will be more bunched... They look lanky vs their shorter squater female counter part.

Red stem vs white stem on brand new seedlings... I can almost swear by this, but, I wouldn't bet the ranch.. LOL! Red stems seem to be male in MANY cases.. IMO!

I've also seen plants that fit all the criteria for being female, and end up being cursed males..
 

sensimilla86

Active Member
I've been told not to add anything until they have at least 3 sets of 3 blade leaves. They work with a soil mix which contains absolutely nothing for nutrients so I can't comment on how strong the soil you are using is. The only thing i can say is when you do add nutrients aim very low... like 1/4 strength when they are that young. :peace:
well i grew up on a dairy farm and my soil is half haylage compost(corn stalks and curnels, alphelpha and, hey) then half soil form where we have buried cows that have died there bodies are completley decomposed and all you have is bones and dark soil then i mix that with pearlite but i have no clue what the nuet levels are and am just gonna wait till i see some sign that they are hungry
 

Silky Shagsalot

Well-Known Member
i didn't see where you asked about feeding. but if you're curious about feeding, start at 1/4 strength when you have 3 alternating internodes. depending on your light, that could vary time wise. i consider a plant mature, when the internodes start staggering. (that's when the leaves aren't parallel with each other coming off of the main stem.)
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
I don't classify seedlings different than any other plant in veg. it gets almost the exact same treatment.

In DWC, once the roots touch the water, it gets full strength nutes. (about 800-1000ppm)
 
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Cannabis.Is.Free

Well-Known Member
I don't classify seedlings different than any other plant in veg. it gets almost the exact same treatment.

In DWC, once the roots touch the water, it gets full strength nutes. (about 800-1000ppm)
I'm kind of in the same boat but not really.
I grow in coco exclusively (similar to hydro but more forgiving).
I use 200-400 PPM once the first set of true leaves kick in (Not single blade)
Never got nute burn, but I use jacks/peters which is extremely hard to burn plants with.
You can really see the difference between a "seedling" that isn't fed till the 3-4 node rule, compared to a plant that has been receiving nutrients since week 1-2.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Sure you can. The difference is that people who don't feed until the 3-4th node go to the Help section to ask why their plants are growing slow and turning yellow.

(this is for hydro and coco)

You can really see the difference between a "seedling" that isn't fed till the 3-4 node rule, compared to a plant that has been receiving nutrients since week 1-2.
 

Black2greyNE

New Member
Damn I'm trying my first grow in coco coir and just started using Alaskan naturals at about 1/3 strength, that was about 6 hours ago haven't seen any change yet but hoping. Im 'figuring some deficiency's probably potas. Ones doing really well and the rest are just ok a few leaves turning lime green at the edges mostly the new growth.
Sure you can. The difference is that people who don't feed until the 3-4th node go to the Help section to ask why their plants are growing slow and turning yellow.

(this is for hydro and coco)[/QUO
 
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