Who is making the Best Supplemental UV/Far Red LED set ups?

Fladawg01

Well-Known Member
Anyone want to chime in on what you are using for supplemental lighting of UarV & F Red? If you're not using no need to advise your LED covers it, these are extensions to a full spectrum LED. Thanks for anyone chiming in with their brand, reasons and how well they worked.
 
Ive not tried the on market variants cause they didnt really convince me, i went with the diy route: uv and far reds on ledstar pcbs, qnd then soldering everything up with a hot point soldering iron. Process was a bit daunting at first but tbh it was very easy, you learn quickly how to do it.

Benefits:
- it fits any of diy routey space, on market uv strips come in set length which wouldnt work well for our space.
- allows for setting up your own uv spectrum: most uv strips use just one uv nm (usually 385 or 365nm) which i dont think is the best approach from reading peoples feedback. We had good and reliable results with 2:1 400/365nm. My working hypothesis is 450nm> 400nm > 365nm; not just a bunch of deep uva without something between your standard blue spike and your uv as this can be too much for a plant.
- it was a lot cheaper to get it done the way i wanted it than going with a finished solution.

Uv benefits: it changes smell and taste in an unmistakeable way if your main spectrum stops at 450nm blue. Its a clear improvement.
Drawback: depending on what you add it to you can get a slight yield loss; most led lights sold today have a high amount of blue in the spectrum which can make yield suffer slightly. Adding uv to already high blue levels can further aggravate this. The theory is that the far red (or adding other types of red or having a proper flower spectrum rather than a fullcycle spectrum) will balance this. I cant properly say it did in our case but we added less far red than uv and the tray we tried out far red on was one of these fullcycle spectrums. On other trays with much more flower centric spectrum the uv worked absolutely great.

If you want to avoid these issues and have the possibility to do custom i would recommend adding uv and reds (rather than far reds) in 1:3- 1:5 proportion.
I realize this may not be the answer youre looking for but it was what worked for our grow.

I know @driver77 uses some uv /far red bars he may also have some feedback.
 
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Ive not tried the on market variants cause they didnt really convince me, i went with the diy route: uv and far reds on ledstar pcbs, qnd then soldering everything up with a hot point soldering iron. Process was a bit daunting at first but tbh it was very easy, you learn quickly how to do it.

Benefits:
- it fits an of diy routey space, on market uv strips come in set length which wouldnt work well for our space.
- allows for setting up your own uv spectrum: most uv strips use just one uv nm (usually 385 or 365nm) which i dont think is the best approach from reading peoples feedback. We had good and reliable results with 2:1 400/365nm.
- it was a lot cheaper to get it done the way i wanted it than going with a finished solution.

Uv benefits: it changes taste smell and taste in an unmistakeable way if your main spectrum stops at 450nm blue. Its a clear improvement.
Drawback: depending on what you add it to you can get a slight yield loss; most led lights sold today have a high amount of blue in the spectrum which can make yield suffer slightly. Adding uv to already high blue levels can further aggravate this. The theory is that the far red (or adding other types of red or having a proper flower spectrum rather than a fullcycle spectrum) will balance this. I cant properly say it did in our case but we added less far red than uv and the tray we tried out far red on was one of these fullcycle spectrums. On other trays with much more flower centric spectrum the uv worked absolutely great.

If you want to avoid these issues and have the possibility to do custom i would recommend adding uv and reds (rather than far reds) in 1:3- 1:5 proportion.
I realize this may not be the answer youre looking for but it was what worked for our grow.

I know @driver77 uses some uv /far red bars he may also have some feedback.
Ive not tried the on market variants cause they didnt really convince me, i went with the diy route: uv and far reds on ledstar pcbs, qnd then soldering everything up with a hot point soldering iron. Process was a bit daunting at first but tbh it was very easy, you learn quickly how to do it.

Benefits:
- it fits an of diy routey space, on market uv strips come in set length which wouldnt work well for our space.
- allows for setting up your own uv spectrum: most uv strips use just one uv nm (usually 385 or 365nm) which i dont think is the best approach from reading peoples feedback. We had good and reliable results with 2:1 400/365nm.
- it was a lot cheaper to get it done the way i wanted it than going with a finished solution.

Uv benefits: it changes taste smell and taste in an unmistakeable way if your main spectrum stops at 450nm blue. Its a clear improvement.
Drawback: depending on what you add it to you can get a slight yield loss; most led lights sold today have a high amount of blue in the spectrum which can make yield suffer slightly. Adding uv to already high blue levels can further aggravate this. The theory is that the far red (or adding other types of red or having a proper flower spectrum rather than a fullcycle spectrum) will balance this. I cant properly say it did in our case but we added less far red than uv and the tray we tried out far red on was one of these fullcycle spectrums. On other trays with much more flower centric spectrum the uv worked absolutely great.

If you want to avoid these issues and have the possibility to do custom i would recommend adding uv and reds (rather than far reds) in 1:3- 1:5 proportion.
I realize this may not be the answer youre looking for but it was what worked for our grow.

I know @driver77 uses some uv /far red bars he may also have some f
 
@Delps is an riu member who is using deep red supplemental lighting he will have heaps of info on the lights. He has viparspectra glow r80 as soon as something other than mars hydro is available here in Australia I'll be investing.
 
I use the Mars Hydro Adlite supplement bars....uva, ir, blue, and 660nm red. I use the uva for 5 to 10mins every hr and the ir for 15 to 30 mins at lights out. The red or blue are on with main light schedule depending on veg or bloom cycle.
It's a game of balance though...depending on how high the main light is turned up determines how long each supplement can be run. There are recommendations out there for % of red, green, and blue for each stage of growth...I got mine from AI Claude.
I use a VBR-100 quantum par meter to measure my spectrum and overall par...$60 on Amazon.
 
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I use the Mars Hydro Adlite supplement bars....uva, ir, blue, and 660nm red. I use the uva for 5 to 10mins every hr and the ir for 15 to 30 mins at lights out. The red or blue are on with main light schedule depending on veg or bloom cycle.
It's a game of balance though...depending on how high the main light is turned up determines how long each supplement can be run. There are recommendations out there for % of red, green, and blue for each stage of growth...I got mine from AI Claude.
I use a VBR-100 quantum par meter to measure my spectrum and overall par...$60 on Amazon.
Your uv bars are 385nm, right?
I was under the impression that uvb is the part of the uv spectrum, that gives the most benefit. Was i mislead?
Uvb without uva is likely to burn your plants quite badly with big yieldloss.
Uva gives a more developed taste/smell and possibly a bit more stone but really hard to determine.
Carefull application Uvb can be used to trigger uvr8 gene response which should lead to higher potency; but its easy to over apply as uvb also breaks down the cannabinoids; think of them as sunscreen.
 
Your uv bars are 385nm, right?

Uvb without uva is likely to burn your plants quite badly with big yieldloss.
Uva gives a more developed taste/smell and possibly a bit more stone but really hard to determine.
Carefull application Uvb can be used to trigger uvr8 gene response which should lead to higher potency; but its easy to over apply as uvb also breaks down the cannabinoids; think of them as sunscreen.
365-370 for the Mars uv
I'm looking at the Migro uvb light...it's a bulb 75% uvb and 25% uva
 
365-370 for the Mars uv
I'm looking at the Migro uvb light...it's a bulb 75% uvb and 25% uva
I have the migro uvb310. My last grow got a lil fried from the uvb. I had it at the recommended height, and I followed what they suggested for amount of time exposure. My main fixture, for that grow, was the Spider Farmer se5000. It was the first Gen. one, with ir and uv. Not sure how powerful the uv diodes are, but i believe the uvb was too much for the particular strain i was growing, maybe?

My next run will be in the next month or so, once the weather cools down some. I'll try the same strain again, without the uvb, and different main fixture, and see what happens.
 
I have the migro uvb310. My last grow got a lil fried from the uvb. I had it at the recommended height, and I followed what they suggested for amount of time exposure. My main fixture, for that grow, was the Spider Farmer se5000. It was the first Gen. one, with ir and uv. Not sure how powerful the uv diodes are, but i believe the uvb was too much for the particular strain i was growing, maybe?

My next run will be in the next month or so, once the weather cools down some. I'll try the same strain again, without the uvb, and different main fixture, and see what happens.
That's the one I've been looking at...found the bulbs they use for less money, just having a hard time with the fixture.
How long where you running it/day?
 
I have the migro uvb310. My last grow got a lil fried from the uvb. I had it at the recommended height, and I followed what they suggested for amount of time exposure. My main fixture, for that grow, was the Spider Farmer se5000. It was the first Gen. one, with ir and uv. Not sure how powerful the uv diodes are, but i believe the uvb was too much for the particular strain i was growing, maybe?

My next run will be in the next month or so, once the weather cools down some. I'll try the same strain again, without the uvb, and different main fixture, and see what happens.
Ive heard many suggestions for ratios but generally always much more uva than uvb, as much as 99:1 uva to uvb down to 3:1 from another source. It kinda depends on how you apply it and what specific part of the uvb: the uvr8 actionspectrum shows that its most sensitive to something around 280-285nm, but generally anything under 280 is uvc which is no bueno. One of my buddies use as little as 60mW of 285nm and swears by its effects on potency. I dont know; similar levels or even a bit more of 295nm did not give us appreciable effects on potency but it did give a nice leaf boner every time the uvb was turned on (and signs of distress when left on too long by misstake) so it must have been doing something.
 
Ive heard many suggestions for ratios but generally always much more uva than uvb, as much as 99:1 uva to uvb down to 3:1 from another source. It kinda depends on how you apply it and what specific part of the uvb: the uvr8 actionspectrum shows that its most sensitive to something around 280-285nm, but generally anything under 280 is uvc which is no bueno. One of my buddies use as little as 60mW of 285nm and swears by its effects on potency. I dont know; similar levels or even a bit more of 295nm did not give us appreciable effects on potency but it did give a nice leaf boner every time the uvb was turned on (and signs of distress when left on too long by misstake) so it must have been doing something.
This is the tech specs on my uvb310......

Screenshot_20250815_112840_Google.jpg

It's only 18w, with a peak of 310nm.

The bud i grew under it was pretty damn good, potency wise, but like I said, it fried a lot of the leaves, so taste and smell weren't so great. Buds didn't look burned at all though.
 
Can anyone explain why light manufacturers and people performing studies only apply the UV spectrum nearing the end of the plants life (adding UV last 3 weeks from MIGRO & 3 weeks after flower starts from Bugbee/Westmoreland)?

It’s counterintuitive and doesn’t make much sense from a plant physiological standpoint or a seasonal standpoint. Most climates are going to have a higher UV index during late spring/ early summer when plants are still very much in a vegetative state or just beginning to transition, and the UV gradually decreases in intensity as the months progress towards harvest.
 
Can anyone explain why light manufacturers and people performing studies only apply the UV spectrum nearing the end of the plants life (adding UV last 3 weeks from MIGRO & 3 weeks after flower starts from Bugbee/Westmoreland)?

It’s counterintuitive and doesn’t make much sense from a plant physiological standpoint or a seasonal standpoint. Most climates are going to have a higher UV index during late spring/ early summer when plants are still very much in a vegetative state or just beginning to transition, and the UV gradually decreases in intensity as the months progress towards harvest.
Good question. I'm interested to see what the replies will be.
 
Can anyone explain why light manufacturers and people performing studies only apply the UV spectrum nearing the end of the plants life (adding UV last 3 weeks from MIGRO & 3 weeks after flower starts from Bugbee/Westmoreland)?

It’s counterintuitive and doesn’t make much sense from a plant physiological standpoint or a seasonal standpoint. Most climates are going to have a higher UV index during late spring/ early summer when plants are still very much in a vegetative state or just beginning to transition, and the UV gradually decreases in intensity as the months progress towards harvest.
GroBro-ism? The other part of that arhument is that uvb breaks down thc; makes sense to leave it out during the finish.
 
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