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ok well i just started to germinate my seed, but to tell you the truth i do not have a plan to grow this one, I am thinking if i could just grow it in a party cup for it veg then put it outside for flowering the only problem is i live in chicago so its some weird weather. Also how much would you water the plant during flowering outside.

streetlegal said:

ill try to answer as much as i can.. bear in mind i know not much about CFL's, although i have T5's which i use for seedlings..

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Ok i'll bite.

I am having serious issues with heat in my flowering tent. I am running a 600w HPS in a euro reflector from HTGsupply. I have a inline exhaust fan that is rated at 160cfm. I have another intake fan on the other side its a PC muffin fan but its rated at 110cfm. I have another exhaust fan at the top of the tent same PC muffin fan as the intake on the hood. 110cfm. There is negetive pressure in the tent as when it is zipped up the front bends in. But as you can see the temps are at 88F and they fluctuate between 80F - 88F. I raised the light as high as it would go in the tent.

The tents dimensions are 4ft Tall x 3ft wide x 2ft deep

I still can't get the temps down. The ducting work is ghetto and I know it. I am recycling vented hot air in the same room as the tent which is probably causing an increase in heat. And I will be addressing that problem tomorrow.

If you know of any other solution to bring the temps down please let me know. Thanks in advance.

LiLKusH said:

do you know when i should take my newly sprouted sprouts off the 24/0 lighting?
and when i should start seeing more then the 4 leaves?

Click to expand...

You can take them off any time, you don't necessarily have to use 24/0, you could've started at 18/6, or 20/4, etc.
In a week or two after it comes up, you should start to see rapid growth(if optimal conditions are provided)

nailz92002 said:

Ok i'll bite.

I am having serious issues with heat in my flowering tent. I am running a 600w HPS in a euro reflector from HTGsupply. I have a inline exhaust fan that is rated at 160cfm. I have another intake fan on the other side its a PC muffin fan but its rated at 110cfm. I have another exhaust fan at the top of the tent same PC muffin fan as the intake on the hood. 110cfm. There is negetive pressure in the tent as when it is zipped up the front bends in. But as you can see the temps are at 88F and they fluctuate between 80F - 88F. I raised the light as high as it would go in the tent.

The tents dimensions are 4ft Tall x 3ft wide x 2ft deep

I still can't get the temps down. The ducting work is ghetto and I know it. I am recycling vented hot air in the same room as the tent which is probably causing an increase in heat. And I will be addressing that problem tomorrow.

If you know of any other solution to bring the temps down please let me know. Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

That's a good idea, exhausting air out of the buffer room rather than in to it...that should be suffice...
I can't think of anything else, but to find a really cool place you can pull air from...


SLB

mkriesemint said:

ok well i just started to germinate my seed, but to tell you the truth i do not have a plan to grow this one, I am thinking if i could just grow it in a party cup for it veg then put it outside for flowering the only problem is i live in chicago so its some weird weather. Also how much would you water the plant during flowering outside.

Click to expand...

You should probably get a bigger pot, as the roots will fill up that party cup fairly quickly and will become root bound, thus stunting growth...and watering times differ, due to pot size, temperatures, etc...so I can't accurately answer that question...

SLB

I am having serious issues with heat in my flowering tent. I am running a 600w HPS in a euro reflector from HTGsupply. I have a inline exhaust fan that is rated at 160cfm. I have another intake fan on the other side its a PC muffin fan but its rated at 110cfm. I have another exhaust fan at the top of the tent same PC muffin fan as the intake on the hood. 110cfm. There is negetive pressure in the tent as when it is zipped up the front bends in. But as you can see the temps are at 88F and they fluctuate between 80F - 88F. I raised the light as high as it would go in the tent.

The tents dimensions are 4ft Tall x 3ft wide x 2ft deep

I still can't get the temps down. The ducting work is ghetto and I know it. I am recycling vented hot air in the same room as the tent which is probably causing an increase in heat. And I will be addressing that problem tomorrow.

If you know of any other solution to bring the temps down please let me know. Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

yeah bringing in cool air is always good .. you should move the light down though it wont affect heat too much .. does the light have a glass sheet ? if so i would take it off. .it will draw mmore of the heat out of the room ..

Help please!!!!!!!

I had a sprout that was almost dead when i decided to take it out of its peat pellet and put it into rockwool. i put the rockwool on a window ledge and left it. 2 days later it was looking revived with 2 new (3rd and 4rth total) tiny leaves on it. I waited til the rockwool was almost dry then watered it with a enriched water solution suggested for rooting. I then placed the sprout under a 400 watt hps about 22 inches away from it which was now under a humidity dome. temps in the dome are 85 degrees 45% H . this morning i got up and check on it and it had yellow edges on its new leaves.

Please help me save this little lazeroth.

thanks for reading

also i wanted to point out this sprout is 1 inch tall

thanks

should i leave i take it out from the light and put it back to the ledge or leave it?

nailz92002 said:

Ok i'll bite.

I am having serious issues with heat in my flowering tent. I am running a 600w HPS in a euro reflector from HTGsupply. I have a inline exhaust fan that is rated at 160cfm. I have another intake fan on the other side its a PC muffin fan but its rated at 110cfm. I have another exhaust fan at the top of the tent same PC muffin fan as the intake on the hood. 110cfm. There is negetive pressure in the tent as when it is zipped up the front bends in. But as you can see the temps are at 88F and they fluctuate between 80F - 88F. I raised the light as high as it would go in the tent.

The tents dimensions are 4ft Tall x 3ft wide x 2ft deep

I still can't get the temps down. The ducting work is ghetto and I know it. I am recycling vented hot air in the same room as the tent which is probably causing an increase in heat. And I will be addressing that problem tomorrow.

If you know of any other solution to bring the temps down please let me know. Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

Agree with SLB.

It does not look like there is any air coming into your room. Here is something I am working for another user.



A - Ambiant temp at intake (this is A for a reason)
B - CFM rating of fan
C - Wattage of Light (assumes remote ballest)
D - Carbon Filter (I have not come up with a quanatative value, supposedly they do not restrict air flow do to their design).
E - Area of Passive intake

Assign values to the above and let's see what we have.

Hey, total noobie here!
I have 5 hash bomb seedlings that are approximately 5 days from sprouting.
My first of what I am sure are many questions to come is when to consider transpanting them? They are in small clay starter pots with FF soil and doing ok so far, first set of serated leaves, etc...
Thanks in advance!

Hi
Thanks for answering the previous question
I grew seven females with 320 w (from 8 cfl each of 40W)...
now I'm regenerating three of them plus added new seedlings from seeds I had(not bought just had ...like leftovers...)
anyhow just so you know where I'm coming from...

Now I've a tent and all...preparing to set it up ...
400w lamp, cooltube....everything except for a carbon filter but I guess I 'll have to do without for now


what I got now and I didn t is some serious feminsed seeds
when i germinated the seeds i used paper towel method and then straight into soil(garden soil from flowershop) and under the 320 cfl

I've been goin thru videos and all and "they" say that after it germinates and you put the small cracked seeds into rockwool cubes(tht's what I intend to use this time) you should put the cubes away from light , in a dark place?
is it wrong to immediately place the ubes under a few compact fluruoscent lights,-cfl?
Im a bit worried the seeds being bought and all don t wanna mess it up
besides I'm planning to I dunno how but somehow to bring like three levels of plants into one growtent at one point(the three females that i already have and have them regenerated....the small seedlings unknown strain just as the three females plus the bought seeds) but that s another question and will look for a solution....
thanks
-peace

@guestweed as long as your tepms are ok I really don't see a whole lot of downside (other than power consumption) by going straight to your 400w. It's in a cool tube and you can start it high and bring it in as they reach for it. Additionally I really do not see the benifit of RW cubes to soil, germinating is simple enough that straight to soil is all alot of seed growers do. I'm hooked on clones, but will get some seeds when I change my strain.

I posted about this in the ailments thread, but going to rehash it here because it seems like I just don't get much input in that forum.

My plants are growing, but I definitly have some issues, and I got one response from a post with pics that jumped on nut deff.

I am using all RO/DI water in potting soil, and went and got some calcium/iron/mag hydro solution. the PH is right at 7, and though I've read elsewhere that 7 is ok for the plants, the prevailing opinion here seems to be that it should really be closer to 6.5. I tried vinegar to bring it down, but the last reading I took my PH had gone up just slightly to around 7.2.
The hydro store sold me some dolomite lime (pelletized), and I was just kinda taking their advice without question at the time, but after getting home I started thinking about what I know about PH (which all comes from water chemistry), that high PH is usually associated with an excess of calcium reacting with CO2. In fact, one of the best ways to maintain high PH in water is to add limewater.

So did they just sell me the wrong product, or is there something I'm not aware of in soil chemistry that would cause the lime to lower my PH?

Pics are located in this thread: https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/345797-brown-silver-spots.html#post4358239

StinkyDuck said:

Help please!!!!!!!

I had a sprout that was almost dead when i decided to take it out of its peat pellet and put it into rockwool. i put the rockwool on a window ledge and left it. 2 days later it was looking revived with 2 new (3rd and 4rth total) tiny leaves on it. I waited til the rockwool was almost dry then watered it with a enriched water solution suggested for rooting. I then placed the sprout under a 400 watt hps about 22 inches away from it which was now under a humidity dome. temps in the dome are 85 degrees 45% H . this morning i got up and check on it and it had yellow edges on its new leaves.

Please help me save this little lazeroth.

thanks for reading

Click to expand...

Take off the dome, high humidity is not required for seed sprouts...

smithdav said:

Hey, total noobie here!
I have 5 hash bomb seedlings that are approximately 5 days from sprouting.
My first of what I am sure are many questions to come is when to consider transpanting them? They are in small clay starter pots with FF soil and doing ok so far, first set of serated leaves, etc...
Thanks in advance!

Click to expand...

If it's close to the size of starter pots I see around, it'll probably do for maybe 1 week-1 1/2 weeks...BTW, clay pots are not recommended for cannabis, due to the difficulty of transplanting, thus increasing stress...

gobbly said:

I posted about this in the ailments thread, but going to rehash it here because it seems like I just don't get much input in that forum.

My plants are growing, but I definitly have some issues, and I got one response from a post with pics that jumped on nut deff.

I am using all RO/DI water in potting soil, and went and got some calcium/iron/mag hydro solution. the PH is right at 7, and though I've read elsewhere that 7 is ok for the plants, the prevailing opinion here seems to be that it should really be closer to 6.5. I tried vinegar to bring it down, but the last reading I took my PH had gone up just slightly to around 7.2.
The hydro store sold me some dolomite lime (pelletized), and I was just kinda taking their advice without question at the time, but after getting home I started thinking about what I know about PH (which all comes from water chemistry), that high PH is usually associated with an excess of calcium reacting with CO2. In fact, one of the best ways to maintain high PH in water is to add limewater.

So did they just sell me the wrong product, or is there something I'm not aware of in soil chemistry that would cause the lime to lower my PH?

Pics are located in this thread: https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/345797-brown-silver-spots.html#post4358239

Click to expand...

PH that is too high or too low can result in nutrient lock out, which may be whats going on in your situation...
Actually, lime contains citric acid, and adding this to your water should make the water more acidic, thus lowering your ph rather than raising it...

Thanks SLB...the things you learn!!

Would you recommend transplanting to a medium size or a larger pot?

Thanks

smithdav said:

Thanks SLB...the things you learn!!

Would you recommend transplanting to a medium size or a larger pot?

Thanks

Click to expand...

It would depend on the lifespan of the plants(as in how long you wanna keep them alive) and your expectations regarding yield, a good rule of thumb is 1 gallon for every month it will be alive...I would go with the larger pot as to reduce the amount of times I transplant and cause stress to the plant...


SLB