Wiring a lighting controller

rekoj0916

rekoj0916

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, looking to wire up my helios 12 Titan Controller

It is an 8k watt lighting controller that operates at 240v

I plan to wire it to a 50 amp double-pole breaker using 6/2 NM-b wire which is rated for 55 amps.

Seems fairly straightforward,
1. shut off the power
2. connect the black and white to the two HOT inputs in the helios 12, tighten down ground as well
3. run the wire back to my main panel, attach both black and white to the 50 amp breaker
4. add in the breaker and tighten down the ground on the panel
5. double check everything and fire her up.

Is there anything I'm missing or may possibly be incorrect on?
I'll add pictures here in a minute.
 
H

High Power

Active Member
What a piece of junk. Using the quick-wire connection on the back of the receptacles is plain lazy, should have used ring or spade terminals and connect to the screw terminals on the receptacles. The ring terminals and quick connect terminals should have been connected to the wires with ratchet crimps. Don't buy an OTS lighting controller, get an electrician to build it correctly for you.
 
Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
I am an electrican and see nothing wrong with with what buddy has posted there. Allen Bradley has some of the best controllers and plcs available period. Industry standard. But the butt connectors used to tie them to the contactor arent carrying much current they are signals or triggers for the contactor or individual lights. Shouldn't be a problem. For the price if you know an electrican it would be much cheaper but that will work for a long time the way it is
 
rekoj0916

rekoj0916

Well-Known Member
Getgrowingson said:
I am an electrican and see nothing wrong with with what buddy has posted there. Allen Bradley has some of the best controllers and plcs available period. Industry standard. But the butt connectors used to tie them to the contactor arent carrying much current they are signals or triggers for the contactor or individual lights. Shouldn't be a problem. For the price if you know an electrican it would be much cheaper but that will work for a long time the way it is
Click to expand...
Very reassuring, thank you! Does my plan for the install seem correct? Thanks for the help
Rekoj
 
legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Just for shits and giggles take a good look at the controller and you can see it is just two simply relays and a bunch of receptiles if you ever expand you can easily build the same thing yourself.

Wire from the panel to the relay and then to 3-4 duplex recepticles. The trigger wire is just a lamp coed that goes to the first relay and then small jumper wires connect the rest.

It's easy when you take your time I just built a 30 ballast light controller and think I spent around $180 (240 plugs are pricey).

Lastly, those relays don't last forever if you hear them buzzing loudly then it's time to replace them

Look for a "two pole, 40 amp,definite purpose contactor with a 120v trigger"

It's about $15 on ebay

Have fun with the new controller.
 
H

High Power

Active Member
When the contactors buzz, they need to be cleaned, tiny parcles, especially metal particles get trapped when the coil is energized.
 
N

nobody important

Active Member
stick with your 50amp 6-2 set up. Do not go down to 40 amps. Someone did not calculate starting load and you should always run breakers at no more than 85% load
 
Mr ADHD

Mr ADHD

Well-Known Member
A friend asked me to take a look at this post. Im a licensed electrician and HVAC mechanic who specializes in control systems (contactors, relays, timers ...etc).

That unit looks pretty solid. As others have stated, it can be built for very little money if you ever need to expand.
Your wiring is safe, but you need to identify that white wire as a hot leg otherwise it could be mistaken as a neutral in the panel and someone could get hurt. As said before, use some red or black tape OR simpler yet, use a black sharpie! (YES this WILL pass inspection :bigjoint: ) Just make sure its marked from end to end in the panel.

As to your wire sizing, its fine :-) Although the running amperage of your lights is about 35-40a the ignition amperage if all the lights come on at the same time is probably close to 55 amps.

Apparently I turn into a living copy of the NEC code book after a few dabs:weed:

Looks good man! just identify that hot wire.
 
Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
Your wiring the way you described it sounds good. 50 amp 6-2 is beautiful for what you are doing. Think you got it taken care of man. Like they said if the run is fairly long its always good to upsize the wire due to voltage drop ect. There is a calculation you can do but turns out im waaaay to lazy to do it for you. Plus you said its a short run so your good to go. Good luck and dont work live! if you can turn off the main for the part where you have the cover off do it! you touch one of those busbars and we might not ever hear from you again. Be safe and turn it off. will only take 20 mins TOPS even if you havent done it before. BE SAFE and good luck man
 
rekoj0916

rekoj0916

Well-Known Member
Lot of feedback, tremendous thanks to everyone who has contributed!!! Really appreciate it, I'll probably get it done within the next week. Results shall be posted when finished.

Again huge thanks to everyone, I'm looking forward to installing this bad boy.
Rekoj
 
Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
Also just just another pointer. Make sure the 240 breaker goes across BOTH bus bars and not not the same one twice or you won't have 240v
 
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legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
^ now your going to confuse him

Just kill the main power firsr, don't be high, and respect the unseen forces that can and will kill you .
 
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