A Bored Electrician to Answer Your Questions

Do I need special gauge wire for the capacitor in my 400w HPS ballast set up? The capacitor is a grip type and the holes are small. Will 35uF be ok, I know it is not ideal but will it do a job? is ok for the ballast equipment to be wired not in an enclosure if not then what would I use, would an IP rated case be to plasticy melty to do the job?
 

bohicular

Active Member
I am hoping you can help with a ballast problem I'm having. This ballast i wired together will start up the 150w HPS light, run for about 10 mins, completely turn off, and do this over again - it can't seem to stay on for over 10 mins. Its a 127w ballast with a capacitor, so i think it could run on 240w, but the outlet I'm trying to use it on is rated at 110w, and i tested it, and I was seeing 98-110 watts coming thru. Also, I haven't wired a grounded plug on the box, these tests were with an ungrounded plug to the power source.
much appreciation, b
View attachment 1189420
 

NateDizity1420

Active Member
I wanted to know since my 600 hps is on the same fuse as my bathroom it always keeps blowing. I wanted to know if I ran another line to an empty fuse space and put like a 15amp fuse in there if that would be enough to run my 3 fans, 600w hps, and 6 cfl 48" 40w apiece. Also theres a line in my fuse box which has been there since I moved in that i think my be hooked incorectly. All lines going into my fuse box go Grounds to grounds(which are all hooked together) hots all to right side hot screws and neutrals all to left side netural screws, except for one line that is hooked up: Hot to hot screw-Neutral to neutral screw but this is where i think theres a problem ground to neutral screw. Should the ground be hooked up to the neutral screw for any reason?? Anyone please let me know if you think this is a fire hazard.
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
I am hoping you can help with a ballast problem I'm having. This ballast i wired together will start up the 150w HPS light, run for about 10 mins, completely turn off, and do this over again - it can't seem to stay on for over 10 mins. Its a 127w ballast with a capacitor, so i think it could run on 240w, but the outlet I'm trying to use it on is rated at 110w, and i tested it, and I was seeing 98-110 watts coming thru. Also, I haven't wired a grounded plug on the box, these tests were with an ungrounded plug to the power source.
much appreciation, b
View attachment 1189420
sounds like either a bad lamp or a bad capacitor..
and i think you mean volts instead of watts ;)

and it shouldnt work on 240v...... 120 only.
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
I wanted to know since my 600 hps is on the same fuse as my bathroom it always keeps blowing. I wanted to know if I ran another line to an empty fuse space and put like a 15amp fuse in there if that would be enough to run my 3 fans, 600w hps, and 6 cfl 48" 40w apiece. Also theres a line in my fuse box which has been there since I moved in that i think my be hooked incorectly. All lines going into my fuse box go Grounds to grounds(which are all hooked together) hots all to right side hot screws and neutrals all to left side netural screws, except for one line that is hooked up: Hot to hot screw-Neutral to neutral screw but this is where i think theres a problem ground to neutral screw. Should the ground be hooked up to the neutral screw for any reason?? Anyone please let me know if you think this is a fire hazard.
its hard to tell why that ground wire is attatched to the neutral... but if it has lasted this long w/ no problems, then i wouldnt lose too much sleep over it.

if you were to install a new line for your grow with a 15 amp fuse/breaker, then you could run up to 1440w of power for your grow with no issues.

hope it helps.

bongsmilie
 

bohicular

Active Member
sounds like either a bad lamp or a bad capacitor..
and i think you mean volts instead of watts ;)
and it shouldnt work on 240v...... 120 only.
thats right, I meant volts, hah. Well shit, the lamp is good because I switched it back to my 220v ballast with transformer and its working fine. (I was trying to lose the need for a transformer). So its probably a bad capacitor? is there a way to confirm that?
 
I have an S&P 125 5" inline fan that I use for exhaust. The fan has a high and a low setting, that is controlled by how it is wired. It has a ground, white, black, and a brown wire. It is on high if you wire it up with the black wire, and low if hooked up with the brown wire.

I would like to know if I could somehow wire it up so that I can have it automatically switch from high to low, so that its on high during lights on and low when darkness falls. The fan is louder than I'd like when its on high, thats why I would like to run it on low while the lights are off during the day.
 

reggaerican

Well-Known Member
I have an S&P 125 5" inline fan that I use for exhaust. The fan has a high and a low setting, that is controlled by how it is wired. It has a ground, white, black, and a brown wire. It is on high if you wire it up with the black wire, and low if hooked up with the brown wire.

I would like to know if I could somehow wire it up so that I can have it automatically switch from high to low, so that its on high during lights on and low when darkness falls. The fan is louder than I'd like when its on high, thats why I would like to run it on low while the lights are off during the day.
possible yes with some creative wiring.. what you would need is a timer to cut of the high speed and constant power to the low speed.. but must be same circuit to prevent burnout of fan..
 

reggaerican

Well-Known Member
Hey whats the word IAm5toned? nice of you to start a thread like this i just now came across it.. with as much advice as you have givin just imagine how many homes you prob saved from burning down..
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
thats right, I meant volts, hah. Well shit, the lamp is good because I switched it back to my 220v ballast with transformer and its working fine. (I was trying to lose the need for a transformer). So its probably a bad capacitor? is there a way to confirm that?
yes but u need a verified working lamp to test it......
if the lamp stays lit, its something else... (like the original lamp) if the test lamp has the same problem its the cap...
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
I have an S&P 125 5" inline fan that I use for exhaust. The fan has a high and a low setting, that is controlled by how it is wired. It has a ground, white, black, and a brown wire. It is on high if you wire it up with the black wire, and low if hooked up with the brown wire.

I would like to know if I could somehow wire it up so that I can have it automatically switch from high to low, so that its on high during lights on and low when darkness falls. The fan is louder than I'd like when its on high, thats why I would like to run it on low while the lights are off during the day.
yes... all you need is a 3 way light switch... u can get one virtually any hardware/big box construction supply outlet... just wire the incoming voltage (line) to the black screw, and the remaining gold screws, one goes to the high, and one goes to the low. however doing it like that will take away the ability to shut the fan off if you need to, without adding another simple single pole (on/off) switch... if you wanted to be able to shut the fan off, simply intercept the incoming voltage with a single pole switch.

EDIT-

proofreading i noticed that i had misread the original question... beaver heater had asked to be able to do this automatically...
yes there is, there is always a way.... what you need, is one of these-

click image for ordering info cost = $16.83 usd plus S&H

a single pole, double throw, relay (SPDT) with a 120v coil.

the concept is pretty simple.... THE COIL will be controlled by the same circuit that controls your lights.... i know you have a timer there somewhere... THE COIL connects to the timer output.. just like another light... now on the circuit that runs THE FAN, the hot wire only, connects to the relay COMMON. the NORMALLY CLOSED wire on the relay will connect to the brown LOW SPEED on the fan. the NORMALLY OPEN wire will connect to the black HIGH SPEED on the fan... and thats it. while the relay is in the normal, deengerized position, it provides power to the fan low speed while the lights are off. when the timer kicks the lights on, it will also energize the relay, which will cause it to switch power to the high speed pole...... hope that helps!

bongsmilie
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
possible yes with some creative wiring.. what you would need is a timer to cut of the high speed and constant power to the low speed.. but must be same circuit to prevent burnout of fan..

and if you energize both poles (a pole is the connection point.. when i say both poles i mean the high and the low) of the motor at the same time it will fry anyway... use a 3way switch like i suggested above ;)

there are also stop/start high/low motor starters BUT they are super expensive (cpl hundred$) for a simple exhaust fan.
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
Hey whats the word IAm5toned? nice of you to start a thread like this i just now came across it.. with as much advice as you have givin just imagine how many homes you prob saved from burning down..

thanks man....

guess this is my way of making up for a misspent youth ;)

bongsmilie
 

adidasks8

Member
Hey Iam5toned,
Its friggin awesome what you bring to the forums btw.
Question...
I have 2 1000w HPS lamps. The other day, I tried re-routing power from an open power line/outlet from the kitchen using a 100ft (only needed about 60') extension cord with a surge protector at the end to the room. The outlets in the kitchen run from a 20amp fuse in the box with no other things powered from it.
I came back about 15 minutes later to see the surge protector had flipped to the off position. When I went to touch the extension cord, it was hot as hell. I've since reconfigured the 2 lights.

Can I fix this problem by simply getting a thicker gauge, better quality extension cord and surge protector, or is the problem something else. Thanks in advance.
 
Thanks a lot 5toned, you are the man. Saves me a lot of time not having to try and find all that info myself. I will post up when I get around to hooking that up.

yes... all you need is a 3 way light switch... u can get one virtually any hardware/big box construction supply outlet... just wire the incoming voltage (line) to the black screw, and the remaining gold screws, one goes to the high, and one goes to the low. however doing it like that will take away the ability to shut the fan off if you need to, without adding another simple single pole (on/off) switch... if you wanted to be able to shut the fan off, simply intercept the incoming voltage with a single pole switch.

EDIT-

proofreading i noticed that i had misread the original question... beaver heater had asked to be able to do this automatically...
yes there is, there is always a way.... what you need, is one of these-

click image for ordering info cost = $16.83 usd plus S&H

a single pole, double throw, relay (SPDT) with a 120v coil.

the concept is pretty simple.... THE COIL will be controlled by the same circuit that controls your lights.... i know you have a timer there somewhere... THE COIL connects to the timer output.. just like another light... now on the circuit that runs THE FAN, the hot wire only, connects to the relay COMMON. the NORMALLY CLOSED wire on the relay will connect to the brown LOW SPEED on the fan. the NORMALLY OPEN wire will connect to the black HIGH SPEED on the fan... and thats it. while the relay is in the normal, deengerized position, it provides power to the fan low speed while the lights are off. when the timer kicks the lights on, it will also energize the relay, which will cause it to switch power to the high speed pole...... hope that helps!

bongsmilie
 

BuddGreen

Active Member
So I stumbled across this site after a recent layoff, I had wanted to try and pick up a few tips on drying and curing and couldnt help feeling like I have hit the jackpot when I found it. Thanks for the great tips on harvesting. So I have decided to return the favor and lend my 15+ years of experience as a commercial/industrial electrician to try and answer any questions you have regarding wiring issues, lighting placement/intensity/spectrum, control wiring, power factors, heat dissapation, techniques and anything you can come up with dealing with ohms amps or voltage. I also retain an expert knowledge of electronic security/intrusion protection for those that wish to protect their babies from prying eyes and fingers ;) So give me a good question, im really bored and no one is hiring, and my babies are flowering so ive got nothing to do but sit here and spread the wisdom.... hope to see some good questions, some of the solutions I have seen regarding electrical problems on here have been ingenious and creative, however the majority i have seen leave me with a wierd feeling in my stomach, like the type you get when you know something is going to go wrong and bad things happen but theres nothing you can do about it... And I hate that! So give me your best shot, and I will do my best to answer your questions with solutions that are not only practical and easy, but SAFE!bongsmilie
I got one for ya. I got a 400W Sun System II Switchable hood with a Hortilux Super HPS bulb. My question is, Do I switch it to M.H. on a 18/6 light cycle for Veg??? Then switch it to HPS on a 12/12 light cycle for Bloom??? My boy asked me if that's how I did it and I said no. I ran it on the HPS position on a 18/6 for the Veg cycle. Is that correct how I did it on HPS???
 

cheesin'

Well-Known Member
Hey there, thanks for doing what you do. I was wondering if you have ever heard of the older digital ballasts and how they give off tons of RFI waves? Apparently mine created enough noise in my cable line to trip my breaker, causing my cable company to come to my house and investigate why it had happened. Just wondering if you know the actual reason as to why they give off so many RFI waves that cause interference with cable wires? I know that they have since found the solution to this problem. Also, if I replace the current ballast that caused the interruption with a magnetic ballast, should I be completely free of worry that the cable company will have to come out again?
 

watsupbud

Active Member
Hi Iam5toned, i am upgrading my lights soon from 2x1000watts to 6x1000 watts in one room. I was wondering what is the best and safest way to build a sub

panel. Ive tried doing some research but seems confusing that's why Ive ended up here. Im not sure if im going to need 6x15amp breakers or 6x20 amp

breakers for the lights. My main panel is a 200a service. Whats the highest amp i can put on my sub panel just for the 6 lights, plus pump, timer ac, fans etc. And i

must have each light per breaker is that correct? with each breaker having 2 outlets one for my light and one for something small like a fan or timers. I would

appreciate your much need info. Thanks in advance. https://www.rollitup.org/members/iam5toned-171064.html
 
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