Why flushing is a myth yes and no explained!

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Sir.Ganga

New Member
Do a little research on having your meds tested, pay the couple hundred dollars and see for yourself what actually was in it! I think you non-believers will be quite suprised to see what you are actually smoking.

This is the only true test that will proove this theory. People you can't keep saying "well if its on the internet".

Taste aside I have seen what I was smoking and personally...I would rather smoke bugs than some of the products we introduce, chemical or organic.
 

althor

Well-Known Member
Do a little research on having your meds tested, pay the couple hundred dollars and see for yourself what actually was in it! I think you non-believers will be quite suprised to see what you are actually smoking.

This is the only true test that will proove this theory. People you can't keep saying "well if its on the internet".

Taste aside I have seen what I was smoking and personally...I would rather smoke bugs than some of the products we introduce, chemical or organic.

No matter test results, I will always flush. It doesnt hurt the plant at all, so at worst it doesnt help, but I believe it does help.
 

Rumple

Well-Known Member
Where you went wrong with the unflushed bud, is that it's best to chop the whole plant from the base, remove the fan leaves and hang the entire plant.
Nobody said you were doing it the Wrong Way! This is just a different way that the OP is trying to share with everyone!
Sounded like he said I was harvesting wrong. I harvest the same plant from clone every 70 to 80 days for well over eight years. Tried it flushed and not flushed a few times. Every time we did it not flushed the taste and quality suffered. No yield gain at all. I have tried lots of different ways to dry and cure my bud, including hanging the whole plant. The way I am doing it now seems to work well for me and produces a quality product.

I am cool with folks wanting to do things different and I am open to trying some of them myself. I don't hold to any weird grow ideology and will not try and shove my methods down anyone's throat, or even be mad when others disagree with me. Some folks here will call you names, question your education and even criticize your spelling (ultimate douche bag move) if you don't run the same way.
 

Uncle Pirate

Active Member
Have actually you had your bud tested, or are you speculating? What kind of test and where? A guy on here, Huel Perkins, took his unflushed bud and had it tested. The results came back fine, no foreign chemicals or heavy metals were found.
Do a little research on having your meds tested, pay the couple hundred dollars and see for yourself what actually was in it! I think you non-believers will be quite suprised to see what you are actually smoking.

This is the only true test that will proove this theory. People you can't keep saying "well if its on the internet".

Taste aside I have seen what I was smoking and personally...I would rather smoke bugs than some of the products we introduce, chemical or organic.
 

NW2AZ

Member
I dont flush anymore. I didnt flush a plant that i fed with non organic feed right up to the last day this same plant had a very unique hashy flavor with a little dirt/soil hint. None of these flavors were harsh or unenjoyable and i feel were more fully developed when i did not flush. No crackle or charred buds and i only dry for 4 days before smokable. DONT FLUSH!
 

akula

Active Member
The translocation part is what i was saying when i said that nitrogen is mobile within the plant. Thats where this text to me becomes contradictory. If excess is trying to be avoided and excess nutrients are mobile, then why wouldnt the flush be effective?

Im kickin at 1500 ppm right now and im sure thats just a little excessive for hydro. My plan is not to run straight water for 14 or 12 days. Instead i plan to run 400 ish five or six days before chop and just fill with straight water For those last days. So i understand the summary section you talked of also.


As for you telling me what i want to hear, i dont want to hear anything except the truth on the topic. The truth for every grower is what works best for them. Im reading, learning, and participating in basicly an online study group of professional growers to shape my perspective on flushing, its called RIU lol


This topic has many opinions that are black or white. Im taking gray on this one. I still believe that Uncle Pirates method of reducing feed at the end of the life cycle to between 200 - 400 ppm is what the plant wants at that point in time. He is a No flush advocate but runs very minimal nutrients in the final stages, in essence running mostly water or the f word to me. Theres a big difference from 1500 ppm to 300 ppm so excess nutrients in theory are f'd out of there, right?


The problem i have with that post about drowning apple trees and cigars is that it seems that it has more to do with a good dry and cure like i said, and touches just minimally on the actual flush specifics, aplication, and results, of flushing or not flushing. That my friend is why i am dismissing the post, not because its difficult to understand.

Dude like I said, whole books are written on single aspects of this process. This small forum post simply touches on the basics. You cant expect someone to do your work for you and spend hundreds of hours of their time developing a synopsis of their research so you can get the information you wanted right? Not hear at least maybe on their own site to increase traffic. That post (not the exact thread but one of the more original varieties) is what set me on my quest to research the points made. Anyone that is really interested in their own knowledge of the subject that has the time would do the same. One good place to start is Botany for Dummies (no really it is).

But with that said I like the old School House Rock shows. Do you remember those? Simplified very complex topics and cartoonified and personafied it so that even kids could understand? OK so how about a school house rock version of translocation?

So lets get a few things out of the way. The calyxes (or buds) are the sinks we are talking about. In a immature vegging plant, the roots and leaves are also considered sinks, but they are not-so-much so during late flowering. A sink is a final destination point of as defined by the translocation system. Also most people always refer to the stems and stalk as the primary storage system which is true, but does not mean it holds the majority of the micro and macro nutrients, especially late in bloom, these are always the roots. They(the roots) serve much like a bank vault that has been slowly filled and built during the plants life.

OK so on with our School House Rocks.

Translocation in cannabis as explained a Ancient Pyramid building society in Egypt.

For our show, let us define the following.

Caylxes (buds) = The pyramids.
Nutrients (both macro and micro) = The rocks
The roots = The rock quarry
The leaves = The cement producing factories.
The Stems and stalk = The rock moving slaves



The Pyramids (calyxes)

Ok this one is easy, the rocks (nutes) get delivered here to build the pyramids bigger. They are the main sinks and do nothing but take rocks and add them to their structure. They are destination only and dont store any rocks for "later use).

The rocks (nutes)

These are taken initially in the roots by much larger super slaves. These super slaves grab theses from the medium as large mountains, then smash them into the quarry into tiny pebbles like rocks for later usage.


The rock quarry (roots)

The rock quary becaomes the main storage unit for the plant because this is the best place to keep the rocks for long term success of the pyramids. The quarry can store many hundreds of billions of rocks during time of plenty (high ppms....1500 or so plus). They also contain slave drivers that are very greedy in watching over their quarry and the amount of rocks that it contains. They have a direct proportional effect on the speed how the rock moving slaves (stems and stalks) work according to the surplus in the quarry.

The rock moving slaves (stems and stalks)

These are the slaves that move the rocks and deliver them to the sinks. There are a few rules these slaves live by. First they are lazy and will move rocks at only the speed the slave drives demand them to. Second they require water to both quench their thirst from working and lubricate the process of moving rocks. They simply take a rock from another slave and hand a rock to the next slave. They do this at the exact same time, so they almost always have a rock in their possession. If their rock is ever given to a sink and used, the slave drivers add another rock to the slaves. So their are approximately 100k slaves in our system so their are approximately 100k rocks in the system at all times give or take a 1k.

Slaves can only handle rocks and cement. They cannot hold water. They do not have the ability to hold water. They cannot replace the rock (or cement) they carry with water. Instead if they do not have a rock to move, they get fat lazy and die within a short amount of time. Their death would also bring on the death of the pyramid building system as a whole. This is where the slave drivers come into play. When they notice the rock quarry getting low on resources, they slow the slaves down. The keep them working slow, until the quarry is reset to acceptable levels. If the quarry gets down to real low levels (lets say 10 times the amount of slaves or 1 million rocks) then this is a catastrophic event and the slave drivers have the slaves working at almost a standstill. That means no growth for our pyramids at all.

Dont worry though, getting to this drastic level is not easy. It actually takes a long period of drought and famine (or lack of rocks). The slave drivers will also slow the slaves downs at other times. One is that they dont like to work in the extreme hot and cold. They sometimes start to slowly slow down work at about 90F and below 50F. But this is just a slight slow down, as would be a slowdown with two weeks of famine (two weeks of drought in a hydro system would be more like two months and result in collapse). But the important thing to take out of this is that the rocks in the system are always constant, the speed they are moved is what is changed.


The cement producing factories (the cannabis leaves).


These are the clerics and priests of our society. They take rocks and a piece of the sun and combine them to make pyramid cement (sugars). It is quite the miracle of the system really. Yet when the quarry starts to run out of supplies (or the large mountain grabbing slaves age and die) the cement producing factories are blamed and sacrificed. They fall near the plant in the desperate hope they will quickly decompose providing more mountains (micro and macro nutes) for the quarry.


Thats the school house rock of it. Also my numbers are simply arbitrary.

**Edit--Just to be clear I am also in the step down nutes group. I am two-three weeks out right now and have my nutes below 700ish. The last week will be 500-600. I dont have scientific backing on this so I dont go around spouting it as a "must do". I mainly do it because I dont notice much of a difference and really dont like flushing my nutes away if I dont have to, even if its not really that much cost wise. Just something I do. Again, I do it...its a quirk of my grow, so I dont run around saying if you dont do it your a idiot...because I dont have any scientific backing. Just feelings.
 

ru4r34l

Well-Known Member
Do a little research on having your meds tested, pay the couple hundred dollars and see for yourself what actually was in it! I think you non-believers will be quite suprised to see what you are actually smoking.

This is the only true test that will proove this theory. People you can't keep saying "well if its on the internet".

Taste aside I have seen what I was smoking and personally...I would rather smoke bugs than some of the products we introduce, chemical or organic.
Quite intresting that you would rather smoke bugs than your own grown herb :wall:, what exatcly were you indroducing into your feeding ;-)

I have had my bud tested and I use AN "Snake Oils" and there was nothing unexpected, I have two strains that I have recently sent for testing and I am sure the results will be fine.

regards,
 

Ninjabowler

Well-Known Member
Dude like I said, whole books are written on single aspects of this process. This small forum post simply touches on the basics. You cant expect someone to do your work for you and spend hundreds of hours of their time developing a synopsis of their research so you can get the information you wanted right? Not hear at least maybe on their own site to increase traffic. That post (not the exact thread but one of the more original varieties) is what set me on my quest to research the points made. Anyone that is really interested in their own knowledge of the subject that has the time would do the same. One good place to start is Botany for Dummies (no really it is).

But with that said I like the old School House Rock shows. Do you remember those? Simplified very complex topics and cartoonified and personafied it so that even kids could understand? OK so how about a school house rock version of translocation?

So lets get a few things out of the way. The calyxes (or buds) are the sinks we are talking about. In a immature vegging plant, the roots and leaves are also considered sinks, but they are not-so-much so during late flowering. A sink is a final destination point of as defined by the translocation system. Also most people always refer to the stems and stalk as the primary storage system which is true, but does not mean it holds the majority of the micro and macro nutrients, especially late in bloom, these are always the roots. They(the roots) serve much like a bank vault that has been slowly filled and built during the plants life.

OK so on with our School House Rocks.

Translocation in cannabis as explained a Ancient Pyramid building society in Egypt.

For our show, let us define the following.

Caylxes (buds) = The pyramids.
Nutrients (both macro and micro) = The rocks
The roots = The rock quarry
The leaves = The cement producing factories.
The Stems and stalk = The rock moving slaves



The Pyramids (calyxes)

Ok this one is easy, the rocks (nutes) get delivered here to build the pyramids bigger. They are the main sinks and do nothing but take rocks and add them to their structure. They are destination only and dont store any rocks for "later use).

The rocks (nutes)

These are taken initially in the roots by much larger super slaves. These super slaves grab theses from the medium as large mountains, then smash them into the quarry into tiny pebbles like rocks for later usage.


The rock quarry (roots)

The rock quary becaomes the main storage unit for the plant because this is the best place to keep the rocks for long term success of the pyramids. The quarry can store many hundreds of billions of rocks during time of plenty (high ppms....1500 or so plus). They also contain slave drivers that are very greedy in watching over their quarry and the amount of rocks that it contains. They have a direct proportional effect on the speed how the rock moving slaves (stems and stalks) work according to the surplus in the quarry.

The rock moving slaves (stems and stalks)

These are the slaves that move the rocks and deliver them to the sinks. There are a few rules these slaves live by. First they are lazy and will move rocks at only the speed the slave drives demand them to. Second they require water to both quench their thirst from working and lubricate the process of moving rocks. They simply take a rock from another slave and hand a rock to the next slave. They do this at the exact same time, so they almost always have a rock in their possession. If their rock is ever given to a sink and used, the slave drivers add another rock to the slaves. So their are approximately 100k slaves in our system so their are approximately 100k rocks in the system at all times give or take a 1k.

Slaves can only handle rocks and cement. They cannot hold water. They do not have the ability to hold water. They cannot replace the rock (or cement) they carry with water. Instead if they do not have a rock to move, they get fat lazy and die within a short amount of time. Their death would also bring on the death of the pyramid building system as a whole. This is where the slave drivers come into play. When they notice the rock quarry getting low on resources, they slow the slaves down. The keep them working slow, until the quarry is reset to acceptable levels. If the quarry gets down to real low levels (lets say 10 times the amount of slaves or 1 million rocks) then this is a catastrophic event and the slave drivers have the slaves working at almost a standstill. That means no growth for our pyramids at all.

Dont worry though, getting to this drastic level is not easy. It actually takes a long period of drought and famine (or lack of rocks). The slave drivers will also slow the slaves downs at other times. One is that they dont like to work in the extreme hot and cold. They sometimes start to slowly slow down work at about 90F and below 50F. But this is just a slight slow down, as would be a slowdown with two weeks of famine (two weeks of drought in a hydro system would be more like two months and result in collapse). But the important thing to take out of this is that the rocks in the system are always constant, the speed they are moved is what is changed.


The cement producing factories (the cannabis leaves).


These are the clerics and priests of our society. They take rocks and a piece of the sun and combine them to make pyramid cement (sugars). It is quite the miracle of the system really. Yet when the quarry starts to run out of supplies (or the large mountain grabbing slaves age and die) the cement producing factories are blamed and sacrificed. They fall near the plant in the desperate hope they will quickly decompose providing more mountains (micro and macro nutes) for the quarry.


Thats the school house rock of it. Also my numbers are simply arbitrary.

**Edit--Just to be clear I am also in the step down nutes group. I am two-three weeks out right now and have my nutes below 700ish. The last week will be 500-600. I dont have scientific backing on this so I dont go around spouting it as a "must do". I mainly do it because I dont notice much of a difference and really dont like flushing my nutes away if I dont have to, even if its not really that much cost wise. Just something I do. Again, I do it...its a quirk of my grow, so I dont run around saying if you dont do it your a idiot...because I dont have any scientific backing. Just feelings.
Thanks i think. I hope that was a cut and paste job because thats alot of typing otherwise.
Your right, that is some pretty basic info lol. Im a little past that point but thanks regardless.
I have a huge garden in my back yard that takes up a good chunk of my time when were in the right season so ive read up on basic botany and such, i belive that i was the one who first added that nitrogen was a mobile nutrient in the phloem an xylem. If you were trying to help me with this post i apreciate it, but i still cant tell if its an insult :) these flush/no flush threads get pretty heated sometimes. Thanks for your end feeding regiment. That sheds some light on your opinion of the topic. Quick questions..soil or hydro, organic or synthetic, sea of green or tree?
 

akula

Active Member
Thanks i think. I hope that was a cut and paste job because thats alot of typing otherwise.
Your right, that is some pretty basic info lol. Im a little past that point but thanks regardless.
I have a huge garden in my back yard that takes up a good chunk of my time when were in the right season so ive read up on basic botany and such, i belive that i was the one who first added that nitrogen was a mobile nutrient in the phloem an xylem. If you were trying to help me with this post i apreciate it, but i still cant tell if its an insult :) these flush/no flush threads get pretty heated sometimes. Thanks for your end feeding regiment. That sheds some light on your opinion of the topic. Quick questions..soil or hydro, organic or synthetic, sea of green or tree?
No it wasn't an insult and no I didn't cut and paste anything. But yes sometimes people play the "ehh I dont really believe in your scientific link there, since I can always taste chemicals in my weeds....I will put my "faith into that" and yes that gets frustrating. I figured I would just put is out there in a simple format, not particularly for you even though I responded to you.

I am almost full on coco coir now. Best of both worlds IMHO. I still do most of my clones in dirt, because of clone exchange I am part of demands it and I sell my excess clones and it just makes it all around easier not to have to explain that its coco coir and not dirt their clones are in. I do some testing (rarely) with a small vertical hydro set up. But I hardly ever set it up anymore, no need and I am limited with my plants. I use a mix of organic and synthetic. I use Canna Coco and Soul Synthetics and roots organics mainly, but still use Calmag+ and Pro-TeKt. I dont use SOG because as a medical grower with fixed amount of plants for my patients, it just doesn't make sense. I use scrog on occasion but it really is a pain in the ass IMO. I top and then use LST in a swastika like pattern when growing from seed. Just normal circular lst or "tree" if I am being lazy from clones. Use roots organic fabric pots at all times.
 

Ninjabowler

Well-Known Member
Have actually you had your bud tested, or are you speculating? What kind of test and where? A guy on here, Huel Perkins, took his unflushed bud and had it tested. The results came back fine, no foreign chemicals or heavy metals were found.
That would be a good link
 

BeaverHuntr

Well-Known Member
There is no difference in taste from flushed or unflushed bud. It's all about the approach of harvesting and drying.

Where you went wrong with the unflushed bud, is that it's best to chop the whole plant from the base, remove the fan leaves and hang the entire plant. Then trim the sugar leaves dry after 12 days and then put them in jars to cure.

Cutting the buds stem from stem and trimming the sugar leaves wet doesn't work well with unflushed buds. It interrupts the biological process. From a previous post, this is how you do it.

Unflushed buds require a different approach and this is where the flushing myth is created.
I have to agree with this , not about the flushing but about hanging the whole plant. In my noob years I would always cut the branches and hang that way then I took some advice and chopped at the base, hung the whole plant and started trimming that way.. Buds tasted much better.
 

HeartlandHank

Well-Known Member
I have to agree with this , not about the flushing but about hanging the whole plant. In my noob years I would always cut the branches and hang that way then I took some advice and chopped at the base, hung the whole plant and started trimming that way.. Buds tasted much better.
I find that when I hang whole plants that by the time I get the buds manicured and in a jar half the resin is sitting on the table.

When I cut into branches and trim/manicure while the plants are still wet my buds look pristine when they go into jars. The resin glands are not nearly as delicate when wet. Also the amount of handling when trimming wet and in smaller branches is a fraction of drying a whole plant.

I think that it is not so much a whole plant that makes for a good taste as it is a slow dry... although drying a plant whole with sugar leaves on will help a plant dry slower... that is not the only way possible to get a good slow dry.

I find that 2 weeks minimum for dry is best... The longer you can keep the buds damp the better. High humidity for the first 3-5 days does wonders. Obviously, you run risk of mold.

When I was a noob I was hanging whole plants... I've gone back and forth.. but these days i cut into 8-12 inch branches and fully manicure. Dry over 2 weeks... it's not the best, but it is my preferred balance of being easy and effective (quality).

Fitting 4+ lbs of buds (dried) in its post harvest state in a 3x2x5 cabinet requires a sacrifice or two.... i'm still dreaming of a warehouse.:hump:
 

HeartlandHank

Well-Known Member
Common sense is to give the plant what it "NEEDS" for growth and there is NEVER a NEED to flush.

Look at Organic growers like SuperSoil.. they ONLY add water there is NEVER flushing, as the nutrients are in the soil and never added. If they just flushed at the end with water, its exactly as they did the entire grow. The plants in SS take what they need, and they claim there buds are superior?

So.. with that logic and my own research I never flush if I am on top of my plants and giving them just enough EC and not slamming them.

It's common sense if your plants look like 90% of the plants that are slammed beyond EC constraints to squeeze every nug out of them, and slammed chemical additives and look like shit, YES flush the SHIT you slammed down their throats out. I mean these monkeys believe every snake oil myth out there, and flock to the hydro to buy it. Sad.

If you have common sense and grow the plants as they should be, and they healthy as they should be I would never flush and I never do. No one ever complains yet... many "oh wow" compliments though.
Common sense is flushing a toilet after using it rather than using a cup to scoop out your shit and throw it in the garbage. What you have listed above is your opinion. There is quite a difference.

Even professional controlled studies, in a lab, by universities do not make definite claims like people are making on RIU.

Just saying... growing dope and finding your preferred methods is far from "research".
 

Ninjabowler

Well-Known Member
I find that when I hang whole plants that by the time I get the buds manicured and in a jar half the resin is sitting on the table.

When I cut into branches and trim/manicure while the plants are still wet my buds look pristine when they go into jars. The resin glands are not nearly as delicate when wet. Also the amount of handling when trimming wet and in smaller branches is a fraction of drying a whole plant.

I think that it is not so much a whole plant that makes for a good taste as it is a slow dry... although drying a plant whole with sugar leaves on will help a plant dry slower... that is not the only way possible to get a good slow dry.

I find that 2 weeks minimum for dry is best... The longer you can keep the buds damp the better. High humidity for the first 3-5 days does wonders. Obviously, you run risk of mold.

When I was a noob I was hanging whole plants... I've gone back and forth.. but these days i cut into 8-12 inch branches and fully manicure. Dry over 2 weeks... it's not the best, but it is my preferred balance of being easy and effective (quality).

Fitting 4+ lbs of buds (dried) in its post harvest state in a 3x2x5 cabinet requires a sacrifice or two.... i'm still dreaming of a warehouse.:hump:
Thanks double H, if the plants are healthy and happy there shouldnt be a high humidity concern right? I like the not whole approach myself too. It looks more professional IMPO. And you catch more sugar :)
 

HeartlandHank

Well-Known Member
Thanks double H, if the plants are healthy and happy there shouldnt be a high humidity concern right? I like the not whole approach myself too. It looks more professional IMPO. And you catch more sugar :)
I would think that if you have genetics with decent mold resistance and a clean environment then high humidity would be less of a risk..
I have had some genetics that I could not slow dry because there was always little PM during flower... Romulan, Apollo 11, and some old old mothers that were past their glory days. I;m not a clean freak, but by no means was my garden filthy either.

I also do not use circulation fans in my drying space... nothing but a very very low cfm exhaust. Then I also set the exhaust to a timer and sort of toy with it based on how fast they are drying and humidity... i guess a humidistat would be great for that. early in the dry the fan runs 24/7. by the end of the dry it is only running for 15 minute intervals, 3-4 times a day.

My super hazy SSH plant is a mold resistant champ... I slow dry those buds as slow as I have the time/dry space free.

I hear you... branches are just so much easier to work with too. I think that handling is a much overlooked importance of the dry/cure process. There is quite a difference between rough handled and delicately handled buds. When I manicured dry whole plants I would go through boxes of latex gloves... all those dirty gloves are your potency going to the garbage. Sure, you can get them off with alcohol and evaporate, but i would rather have that resin on my buds.
 

Ninjabowler

Well-Known Member
I would think that if you have genetics with decent mold resistance and a clean environment then high humidity would be less of a risk..
I have had some genetics that I could not slow dry because there was always little PM during flower... Romulan, Apollo 11, and some old old mothers that were past their glory days. I;m not a clean freak, but by no means was my garden filthy either.

I also do not use circulation fans in my drying space... nothing but a very very low cfm exhaust. Then I also set the exhaust to a timer and sort of toy with it based on how fast they are drying and humidity... i guess a humidistat would be great for that. early in the dry the fan runs 24/7. by the end of the dry it is only running for 15 minute intervals, 3-4 times a day.

My super hazy SSH plant is a mold resistant champ... I slow dry those buds as slow as I have the time/dry space free.

I hear you... branches are just so much easier to work with too. I think that handling is a much overlooked importance of the dry/cure process. There is quite a difference between rough handled and delicately handled buds. When I manicured dry whole plants I would go through boxes of latex gloves... all those dirty gloves are your potency going to the garbage. Sure, you can get them off with alcohol and evaporate, but i would rather have that resin on my buds.
Or in my hash pipe ;)
 

jpill

Well-Known Member
you can inundate me with this experts opinion and all the literature at the smithsonian, im good i know what works for me and i dont need a disertation on plant root mechanics to know what works for me. thats laying off anything but straight water for the last two weeks. Call it what you will. It works for me and thats all i care about. have fun! I eat lego's too!
flush with straight water for two weeks!? Man, you're really fucking yourself !!
 

Ninjabowler

Well-Known Member
flush with straight water for two weeks!? Man, you're really fucking yourself !!
Question...what if you have a plant that is as green as the day you flipped her to flower. Lush and healthy green. Never dropped a leaf without it being rubbed off. No sign of age or deterioration at all and looks like itll stay growing way past the due date of your already nicely swollen harvest...still no two week water run to kill her a little bit? Comments
 
Sure I agree, the first post is spot on.

Reminds me of girdling, remember that old columbian and mexican gold. They stripped the stalk right out in the field, so the pot would oxidize faster. And the
chlorophyll will leave more quickly.
 
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