DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

Growcob5

Growcob5

Active Member
You can't see but I figure it out what it was thank you so much for helping me and for the diagram I had 2 on wire my system why her every Cobb up individually can find the bed Cobb. Clu48 1212 6jan 35k watch 6 chips from you take one was bad now I know why I had so much trouble powering my cops up because it wired in series was one that chip they do not function,

He a somewhat you're not send you a picture of a new chip that I have found out information of and guess what have two of them in hand hooked up and they are very similar to 3590 cxa. 50vots 51to be shore to amps can go all the way up to 3 amps I brought leave but it is a 96 watt check to 130 whites

Nobody in the US at this time has this chick but it blows my mind how its only 8 to $13 and it is competing with 3590 the bigger chip that is not lit I sent you a picture that is the one I am peeking of

If you guys know anything about the steps please notify me thank you and thank you so much for letting me a reply on your thread
 

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NoFucks2Give

NoFucks2Give

Well-Known Member
Growcob5 said:
If you guys know anything about the steps
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Is that "steps" as in the SDW06F1C being a MacAdam 3-Step? A 1 Step means the color is close enough that most people would not notice an error in the color. 1-Step is better than 2-Step, 2-Step is better than 3-Step etc. Many fall in the 4 to 7-Step. It is based on the number of people ("standard observers") that can distinguish the difference in color. They are asked to match two colors. Some people are better at color matching than others.
 
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Growcob5

Growcob5

Active Member
No I was backwards 24 gauge to 18 gauge at the end but actually I figured out what it was I had purchased 6 chips from the UK purchase to chips from the United States and one chip out of this 6 from the UK is defective CLu 48 1212 to roads are out at the top when you touch the top itself the Rose come back on when you touch very hard on the cob they stay one right at the moment that hair on when you touch the cob now they turn off the two rows out of the hole Cobb which you're not supposed to do obviously but when you have a defective chip it don't really matter so I have a new question for you guys
 
Growcob5

Growcob5

Active Member
120 watt. 64 volts with no drawn the driver open current are open voltage open load 2
50 volt chips in parallel. On this driver 96 volt chips. At the moment they are on and functioning but my driver is getting warm enough to be considered having a fever is this abnormal or is this normal to have a driver sitting between two Cobbs connected to the frame is it meant to get a little warm to be honest with you I've had a Mars 700 Milton side when the driver itself the plastic casing head melt it that's why in the beginning you had to throw breather holes inside the Mars drivers but they have fix that
 
Growcob5

Growcob5

Active Member
So are you saying these are s***** chips or something I'm just asking because I knew to building LED's and I know that when I power these chips up they are extremely bright and they're only $8 apiece so I'm just seeing what your theory is
 
Growcob5

Growcob5

Active Member
Did you know that you can get a 12 by 1224 by 24 inch car radiator but not considered a radiator apex for a heater core for any car I found one particular really for a Subaru $20 12 inches by 24 inches to PC fans blowing on it at same time with water traveling through it hold my for cops all fine FedEx allied dear for you to know that you can get a $20 radiator brand new to cool off these led chips but you must have a heat sync with water that can travel through it or design your own your engineering is very cool how you used a fan and copper
 
B

biostudent

Well-Known Member
I don't know if this is appropriate thread for general q&a...

What is the correct way to encapsulate and mount a power supply unit that doesn't have a good IP rating (i.e. is unprotected from water & dust ingress)?
http://img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_228227_1.jpg

How do people normally use this? Where do they place it to ensure it isn't exposed to dust and water?

I'm using hydroponics in my garage so there will be some moisture as well as possibly splashing and dust (maybe even insects).

I've also seen some units that attach to a "din rail"?

In another thread, I was given many options of non-waterproof units that I'd like to use. Any insight, greatly appreciated.
 
RhinoHorn

RhinoHorn

Member
My first post here,so here goes... I will be getting some cxb3590's soon. 4@3500k(36v) and 4@3000k(36v).What will be the best BIN's to buy for those 2 spectrums? I want 2 drivers and have been adviced by RapedLED to get 2 Mean Well HLG-240H-C1400B. Will this be a good driver for running 4 cobs or do you recommend something else? I am in the UK and have only been looking at RapidLED and Cutter Electronics. On cutter there is a back order and I dont really want to wait. I also contacted Jerry from KingBrite Electronics Co., Ltd today ,but I am still waiting on him to come back to me. Are they any good?Any other places I can look for the cobs and heatsinks(best BIN please). Bit of a noob here in regards with the cobs as I only ever used hps. I got 10 UGORG Disco Biscuits beans waiting,but want my cobs running first. Looking forward to any advice! ta
 
B

biostudent

Well-Known Member
NoFucks2Give said:
The best way would be to use an IP67 Mean Well HLG that is already encapsulated. Cost is about $0.40 per watt.
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And how would you encapsulate a lower rating PSU? Or how would you mount/use a lower rated PSU to ensure it is protected from dust/water? How do people normally use these (dust us everywhere)?
 
NoFucks2Give

NoFucks2Give

Well-Known Member
biostudent said:
how would you encapsulate a lower rating PSU?
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I don't think I would do that. I did once upon a time look into buying some thermally conductive encapsulants.

Something like Dow Corning TC-4605 HLV Thermally Conductive Encapsulant. I like Dow, even though they made Agent Orange.

I am going to guess the encapsulant will cost more than the power supply is worth. And more than a new HLG driver.

The phrase to search on is "thermally conductive encapsulants"

I repeat, just buy a already encapsulated power supply.
 
NoFucks2Give

NoFucks2Give

Well-Known Member
RhinoHorn said:
have been adviced by RapedLED to get 2 Mean Well HLG-240H-C1400B. W
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They are going to rape you.

They gave you good advise. Max voltage is 182V. 4 x 36V = 144v and 182 ÷ 4 = 45.5V . Plenty of Volts to spare.
The HLG will automatically adjust its voltage to the exact voltage required for the four CoBs.
Just connect them in series.
Don't electrocute yourself or anyone else.
 
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Mh4l

Mh4l

Well-Known Member
i want to build my own led for fun
want to make a 1200 watt flowering light
im a dumb ass noob with terms and ect.
are there any d.i.y links i havent searched this thread to hard
 
wellandwitham

wellandwitham

Member
Hi, got a hlg-185h-c1050a connected to mains and to my light using two port wagos.

Am I safe to add an apv-12-12 to the mains input using the same 2 port wago.

On the south side I want to connect 3 fans to the apv. Same question really, any issues connecting the fans in parallel all to one port on the wago and the other port back to the driver. Hope that makes sense. Haven't got any 4 port wagos 8)
 
GBAUTO

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
Mh4l said:
i want to build my own led for fun
want to make a 1200 watt flowering light
im a dumb ass noob with terms and ect.
are there any d.i.y links i havent searched this thread to hard
Click to expand...
Welcome.
Their are quite a few vids online that discuss your options. The 'quantum' board type that use discrete diodes are a very efficient style. I decided to build a couple of 48" rails for my layout- I grow in a walk-in closet so my plants are along both walls. The beauty of diy is that you can build your light to fit your space.
COB's are also a efficient option. I use gen7 Vero's that I can drive to about 80 watts per array so 320/fixture. They are bright as hell.
What it boils down to is how much do you want to invest and are you comfortable with basic wiring. Do your research on the technology and make an informed decision-not just on internet babble.
 
Mh4l

Mh4l

Well-Known Member
GBAUTO said:
Welcome.
Their are quite a few vids online that discuss your options. The 'quantum' board type that use discrete diodes are a very efficient style. I decided to build a couple of 48" rails for my layout- I grow in a walk-in closet so my plants are along both walls. The beauty of diy is that you can build your light to fit your space.
COB's are also a efficient option. I use gen7 Vero's that I can drive to about 80 watts per array so 320/fixture. They are bright as hell.
What it boils down to is how much do you want to invest and are you comfortable with basic wiring. Do your research on the technology and make an informed decision-not just on internet babble.
Click to expand...

I want to get as close to commericial led as possible. Budget is big for one test light.


I can read electric diagrams. Im a car mechanic.


What should i look up? Any specif names parts ect
 
T-Time

T-Time

Well-Known Member
I'll be ordering my gear from KingBrite in a day or two and need a conformation for my setup from someone. I think I have this figured out but better safe the sorry ;)

Will HLG-480h-c1400A accomodate 10x cxb3590 run at 1050mA ? In theory cobs run at this current are shy under 34V and this driver is maxing out at 343V


Second question.
What will happen if I exceed that max ? I mean, will it damage the components or just wont light up the cobs ?

Many thanks
T-Time
 
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