Matching Drivers and COBs

nevergoodenuf

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
I had to do the same on 2 of my 500 watt fixtures. The 50K pots that I used dropped my wattage down to 450 watts when I attach it and didn't know. After adding the switch I am back to 510 watts at the wall.
I have noticed that the cheaper pots are all different. 50% on one is different than 50% on the next.
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
nevergoodenuf said:
I had to do the same on 2 of my 500 watt fixtures. The 50K pots that I used dropped my wattage down to 450 watts when I attach it and didn't know. After adding the switch I am back to 510 watts at the wall.
I have noticed that the cheaper pots are all different. 50% on one is different than 50% on the next.
Click to expand...
at flower a extra 60 watts is like a extra cob in very broad thinking
i'd never do a dimmer without a switch , why take away a option of using the full load outta my meaniies
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Fastslappy said:

https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/img_20160304_194752-1-jpg.3624050/
a dimmer on a lead ...................... with boost switch o_O
Click to expand...
If boost means opening the circuit completely, then it would work precisely as one; capped leads on the B model mean the unit runs at 8% over rated capacity.

In my case with 4 CXB3590 @72V on a Meanwell hlg 185h-C700B, it runs at 216W instead of the nominal 200W, so each chip gets about 54W. The unit pulls 225W from the wall; the difference is driver efficiency.

Did you create that box yourself? Link? Is it waterproof?
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
If boost means opening the circuit completely, then it would work precisely as one; capped leads on the B model mean the unit runs at 8% over rated capacity.

In my case with 4 CXB3590 @72V on a Meanwell hlg 185h-C700B, it runs at 216W instead of the nominal 200W, so each chip gets about 54W. The unit pulls 225W from the wall; the difference is driver efficiency.

Did you create that box yourself? Link? Is it waterproof?
Click to expand...
box is from amazon & can be sealed comes with no holes about a buck
all toll that's $3 = pot, switch, box , chunk of tubing , shrink wrap
I'll get back at ya on the link , i got another that's alittle bigger & white ,it'll be a wago/splice box for the power cord
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
that 50 watt per cob is the range I wanna travel in on my grows
running @ 700 is just too soft for the outlay in $$ in my budget
if i need to run @ 700 i'd rather dim down to that than be limited @ a 700 ceiling
(after I got the 3 185-700's this dawns on me I've limited by options )
but the 72v's make use of the drivers as if they were 36v on a 1400
here's that amazon box from my dimmer/boost switch yes it's waterpruff with some silicone added
very tight seal & are hard to crack open , caution drill slowly when placing the holes & use a backing material to drill into (wood) keeps the holes clean when done
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9Y633G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
nevergoodenuf said:
@Fastslappy - Instead of drilling into the box, use your soldering iron. It is a bit smoky, but goes right through. Clean hole with a razor blade. On bigger holes I start with the iron and finish with a Unibit.
Click to expand...
I got cleaner hole my way , i did do one box with a solder iron as i'd seen before here , riu
& it's one step drill hole no cleaning at all Sorry
 
V

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
Fastslappy said:
that 50 watt per cob is the range I wanna travel in on my grows
running @ 700 is just too soft for the outlay in $$ in my budget
if i need to run @ 700 i'd rather dim down to that than be limited @ a 700 ceiling
(after I got the 3 185-700's this dawns on me I've limited by options )
but the 72v's make use of the drivers as if they were 36v on a 1400
here's that amazon box from my dimmer/boost switch yes it's waterpruff with some silicone added
very tight seal & are hard to crack open , caution drill slowly when placing the holes & use a backing material to drill into (wood) keeps the holes clean when done
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9Y633G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
Click to expand...
I agree. I purchased the 36V CoB's and the C1400 just for that purpose. I can dim them, but with the C700 I cannot raise them. I build stomp boxes for my guitar use and there are companies that provide either plastic of aluminum boxes at various dimensions. ->http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
i used this switch http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GGTLL5C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

that switch has 20" leads & as it's pre-wired soldered & shrinkwrapped I cut into the blk wire about 2 " down & soldered the pot there
the leads already there make assy easy & quick for 10 modules I put together
I used 6 foot of outboard gas line (7" incaments lol ) to match the heft of the maenwell dimmer lead coming off the driver
\ the 1st one is sleeved but the rest are not,
I like the look of the blue tube shrink wrap combo any excess wire from switch fits into the box (so to be used agin) I soldered the blue/white leads directly on to the red/blk on the switch
polarity doesn't come into play as yer doing a simple circuit , by splicin into the blk off the switch with a pot
KISS because this part really is (:
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
VegasWinner said:
I agree. I purchased the 36V CoB's and the C1400 just for that purpose. I can dim them, but with the C700 I cannot raise them. I build stomp boxes for my guitar use and there are companies that provide either plastic of aluminum boxes at various dimensions. ->http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/
Click to expand...
Nice site !
kinda outta my budget on the boxes , I keep thinking in the to 10 / 16 ea ch range of buying for bars builds & that each price
10 boxes is the costs of a couple cobs in my spaced out mind
So I try to keep in the buck a part range as there are bxes everywhere once you start looking
I've seen fully water proof /w rubber seals for the cost of those for your stomp bx ( marine / boat supplies )
anyway
for a small build those boxes of yours would Look Sick !
 
L

led2076

Well-Known Member
Fastslappy said:
i used this switch http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GGTLL5C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

that switch has 20" leads & as it's pre-wired soldered & shrinkwrapped I cut into the blk wire about 2 " down & soldered the pot there
the leads already there make assy easy & quick for 10 modules I put together
I used 6 foot of outboard gas line (7" incaments lol ) to match the heft of the maenwell dimmer lead coming off the driver
\ the 1st one is sleeved but the rest are not,
I like the look of the blue tube shrink wrap combo any excess wire from switch fits into the box (so to be used agin) I soldered the blue/white leads directly on to the red/blk on the switch
polarity doesn't come into play as yer doing a simple circuit , by splicin into the blk off the switch with a pot
KISS because this part really is (:
Click to expand...
thanks man
 
V

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
I
bassman999 said:
Probably something along these lines:

@ 56.3%
(4) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.4A (49W ea) $190
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 $65
196 dissipation W -> 85.7W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 10284cm² -> 5.88" X 38" heatsink $72 (could split in 2 to improve uniformity/spread)
or
active cooled heatsink 3428cm² min -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 +80mm fan +psu $10
(4) lenses $16
110.3 PAR W covering 6ft² = 824 PPFD
$311 = $3.07/PAR W passive cooled (great value point IMO, very efficient use of driver)
$326 = 2.96/PAR W active cooled
Click to expand...
am in the process of building two of these in an H-shape configuration with 8 cxb3590, 36v on 2 c1400's.
 
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