Mau5Capades: builds & grow journal

bicit

Well-Known Member
he suggested not to use a graphite pad on a Vero when mounted on aluminnum....Corrosion will set in more quickly or along those lines....He actually didn't go off on Cree kind of ;) and mentioned that the Ceramic base would in theory work better with graphite pads on aluminum...Again I am paraphrasing very shittily and there might me more context....

I know I don't have the big fancy data sets that y'all are working on...

but I don't own or build lights for money...Just to facilitate my growing urges :)....so the Datasets are slow to never happening in my case, simply because this ain't my job :)

That said....I have been using Graftech up to 25 watts Pd on variety of Diodes....Vero's the longest though @ 4-5+ months now @ 23 watt Pd rough estimate, currently in the flower tent too....

Few others are on the radar, especially the PLC ones, but I find no reason they are not functional. Anecdotally only unfortunately. :peace:
I think it was bridgelux that put out an image showing that graphite pads don't fill the voids quite as effectively as thermal paste. I can't seem to find it anymore though.

I may have to pick some up to test out. I wonder if there is an appreciable difference in temps.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
he suggested not to use a graphite pad on a Vero when mounted on aluminnum....Corrosion will set in more quickly or along those lines....He actually didn't go off on Cree kind of ;) and mentioned that the Ceramic base would in theory work better with graphite pads on aluminum...Again I am paraphrasing very shittily and there might me more context....

I know I don't have the big fancy data sets that y'all are working on...

but I don't own or build lights for money...Just to facilitate my growing urges :)....so the Datasets are slow to never happening in my case, simply because this ain't my job :)

That said....I have been using Graftech up to 25 watts Pd on variety of Diodes....Vero's the longest though @ 4-5+ months now @ 23 watt Pd rough estimate, currently in the flower tent too....

Few others are on the radar, especially the PLC ones, but I find no reason they are not functional. Anecdotally only unfortunately. :peace:
I'm using graphtech now on 8 CXB3590's at 64watts :/ but I have 2 140mm fans cooling the 4 cobs on each 36" heatsink. Passively I'd be worried. But my light doesn't get hot at all.20160218_052553.jpg 20160220_104424.jpg 20160218_052548.jpg
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
I picked up 5 Arduino Nano clone boards today for $40. They're tiny but have the same functionality as the Uno. You just have to put the power supply right into the pins because there's no adapter jack, and the USB jack is mini-USB instead of full size. They're the size of your little finger from the tip to the 2nd knuckle. Now I just need to get some digital isolators and 220-250 ohm resistors and I can control LED dimmers at will. Sure beats a potentiometer.
 

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
I picked up 5 Arduino Nano clone boards today for $40. They're tiny but have the same functionality as the Uno. You just have to put the power supply right into the pins because there's no adapter jack, and the USB jack is mini-USB instead of full size. They're the size of your little finger from the tip to the 2nd knuckle. Now I just need to get some digital isolators and 220-250 ohm resistors and I can control LED dimmers at will. Sure beats a potentiometer.
:hump: Yer gonna do a build thread I hope :P

:clap:
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
:hump: Yer gonna do a build thread I hope :P

:clap:
Just wanted to mention the Arduino Nano boards, since they are rather novel in their smallness and are available cheap in clone versions. I got DCCduino ones. Aside from the information I gave so far, I'll let people figure out the details themselves about how to use them with their LEDs. There's plenty of information around on Arduinos. You can do stuff like mimicking gradual sunrise and sunset, even changing the spectrum if you have mixed LEDs. They're good for experimental stuff like that.

BTW, sometimes these boards don't show up in Device Manager and you'll get a driver error message. You have to find the CH341SER.EXE installer and download it. Even then you'll probably have to do a manual install of the driver inf file, FTDIBUS3.inf. Then it has to be plugged into the right usb slot. I eventually got mine working though, on Win 7 x64, and was able to upload programs. I just need to get something to couple it to the driver dim leads, maybe just a simple n-channel MOSFET that I salvage from an old stereo or something. Could probably get resisitors that way too.
 
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VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
I like your progressive thinking, perhaps a solar panel or film on the back wall of a garden. But I wonder what the ROI would be versus the pennies it costs to power a few mono leds.
My instinct tells me that a person interested in utilizing solar would be better off slapping a panel up on the roof and offset their dissipation more dramatically.

* A for effort tho. smoke some more & hit me back with your next "patented idea" lol. cheers
Yes. a panel on the roof or nowadays they are making clear film panels to mount on a window. exciting times ahead. A small two or four panel system could be had and ibnstalled by self with a few deep cycle marine batteries and do well. Not much to the circuitry. peace. nice clean setup you have.
 

The Green Griffin

Well-Known Member
Hope you are doing ok, Growmau5, I miss your comments, suggestions, creativity and expertise. Your logical, scientific approach to exploring lighting has been a blast to follow. Learned so much from your threads and vids, cannot tell you how much I (and countless others, I'm sure) appreciate how much you've given to this community.....you da man! Wishing you the absolute best.......
 

Hobojoe00

Member
Screw all those heatsink options. I want to heat my pool. With liquid cooling , around 12,000 watts could i heat 30,000 gallons ? lol i'll do the math. Currently using a natural gas hot water heater now as a co2 burner , heats the pool a little but it's not running enough. I'm still around 60 degrees all the time.

Wondering now if i can wrap copper tight enough to hold everything , 1/8th inch or 1/4th inch could be looped in rows to make any size and you will have 1 in and 1 out for each panel , link them together or just run a single 4 loop that will hold 4 cobs with 1 in and out. i have not made it threw all 7x pages so im sorry if this has been mentioned already. I also saw the waterproof connectors for cob to driver. ^ ^
 
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The Green Griffin

Well-Known Member
But those 2800 cobs (@1400 ma) WOULD run one hell of a grow room......I say go for it! Don't worry about the $200,000+ cost and the months (years?) it would take to build. Or you could get a much smaller pool. There are always solutions.image.jpeg
 

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Hobojoe00

Member
But those 2800 cobs (@1400 ma) WOULD run one hell of a grow room......I say go for it! Don't worry about the $200,000+ cost and the months (years?) it would take to build. Or you could get a much smaller pool. There are always solutions.View attachment 3647838
lmao " solutions" ok so maybe it won't heat the pool alone but its a step. Maybe ill make a jacuzzi area that spills over into the pool and that can be heated. I got the extra stone to make a nice little waterfall. Anyways lol , im going to wrap up the copper today "had extra laying around from distillation rig i made" . Only thing im not sure of is the flat portion i would want right behind the cob so the thermal paste can get a good transfer. the rest can be tubular. every 12 inches ill put a cross section that holds the wrap together and also provides a place to mount the hangers. The driver just sit on top in between the cobbs.

this might be cheaper then the copper tubing and it will probably be easier to use.
http://eagle-aluminum.com/shop/tubing-connectors-framing-systems/tubing-connectors-framing-systems1-tubing-connectors/aluminum-square-tube-for-nylon-connectors-w-double-channels-for-260-material/
 
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