Mean Well HBG-60-1400 on ModuLED Giga with CXB3590

sanjuan · May 29, 2016

I finally put together an LED luminaire. The only difficult thing was attaching the thermocouple. It seems to be reading too low, only 10C above ambient, but the assembly is very cool. I just found my light meter so I'll check for current droop and look at Kill-A-Watt, should be 50W from the wall. The COB is from cutter, 3000K 90CRI BD flux bin. Heatsink from CDIweb.com and driver from onlinecomponents.com. Aluminum plate is 5052 alloy from ebay.

Adapter plate drill pattern:

I printed this actual size and taped it to the aluminum for locating the center punch.

I spliced in 18 AWG solid wire instead of this routing. The Mean Well cable wasn't shortened, just tucked up under the adapter plate.

slycog · Jul 2, 2016

This is exactly what I'm looking for. Would you consider making/selling a few of these?

sanjuan · Jul 3, 2016

Hi slycog, you've saved me from bumping my own thread--I have more info to add. I'm flattered you like the light but I have too many things going on to produce these for others.

A safety note is the heatsink is not grounded (and there is no ground wire to the driver). I'm relying on "global luminary related safety regulation" certificates, I guess.

I bought enough materials to make a set of ten luminaires. So including shipping, each light cost about $110.

$27 for the MODULED GIGA 152100-B-HBG
https://www.cdiweb.c...atronix/574068/

http://www.cutter.co...hp?prod=cut2861
CXB3590-0000-000N0UBD30G (3000K 90CRI)

there was an ebay offer of ten pieces of 5 x 5 x 0.125" 5052 aluminum for $30 delivered.
http://www.ebay.com/...+5+x+5&_sacat=0

M5 x 20mm spacers:
https://www.grainger...OTAVAIL?smthumb$
M5 x 30mm machine screws work well with these.

Wrong version is pictured of the HBG driver:
http://www.onlinecom...html?p=47854446
These are a great deal in my opinion, especially for a ten-pack @ $201. The case is plastic but seems sturdy. More efficient when run on 240V rather than 120V.

IEC power connector allows easy switching between 120 and 240VAC, this is the one for up to 14 AWG: Schurter 4735
http://www.mouser.co...ajuZ1fTPw%3d%3d

The HBG driver has a small rubber plug underneath that covers the PCB pot. My design is easy enough to disassemble for adjustment but the luminaire needs to be on a bench. The HBG-60-1400 dims down to 910mA so that's 65% of maximum.

I've been adjusting mine for 56W from the wall so the COB sees about 50W. Hooked up to a Kill-a-Watt, the driver pulled from 25W to 65W. At 65W, the heatsink was quite warm.

I'm very happy with the Fieldpiece ST4 temperature meter: http://www.fieldpiec...l-temperature/. The Ideal holders need a corner cut out (with a small abrasive cutoff wheel) for access to the COB measurement point.

I read somewhere that 30 AWG thermocouple wire was preferred for this application so I bought some of these:http://www.omega.com...5LSC_5SRTC.html
Cree recommends K type for their COBs except for the CXA(B)3590 where type T is preferred. Type T would require a different meter and I haven't seen a technical reason for using it on the bigger COBs.

VegasWinner · Jul 3, 2016

nice. i was looking at these after i built a few lights. I think it is the best 50w fixture available for the cost. individual drivers, easy mounting and any CoB you want to use. nice wortk and nice job. peace
Vegas

sanjuan · Jul 3, 2016

I used to call myself a machinist so I don't mind drilling and tapping blind M3 holes in heatsinkUSA bars but these Mechatronix are sooo easy! Someone here was unhappy with the flatness (I think it was a Giga model) but mine look and feel very good, well within Cree spec, no touch-up required (out of three so far).

They aren't perfectly smooth, I can see light under a razor blade, but thermal grease takes care of that. I'm using Grizzly . . . something right now. It has the same workability as Arctic Silver when I "butter" the COB with a credit card (after the COB has been popped into an Ideal holder).

Oh, I haven't posted any temperature readings because I've made a couple of measurement goofs. First of all, I had it dimmed all the way down when I was sure I'd maxxed out the pot CW. That's why I wasn't trusting my thermocouple installation--I now think it is good enough.

My second measurement goof was hanging the light next to a Lumigrow Pro 325 that has reverse airflow, blowing air out the bottom which made the Mechatronix an actively cooled unit!

I haven't cared enough to follow up with better measurements, the heatsinks feel like they could handle an ambient temperature increase of 10C (from 25C) and I wouldn't worry about the COB. Running at 56W from the wall on 240V, I saw 47C. The 100mm Giga is rated at 95W Pd, for what it's worth.

tr909 · Aug 17, 2016

sanjuan said:
Hi slycog, you've saved me from bumping my own thread--I have more info to add. I'm flattered you like the light but I have too many things going on to produce these for others.

A safety note is the heatsink is not grounded (and there is no ground wire to the driver). I'm relying on "global luminary related safety regulation" certificates, I guess.

I bought enough materials to make a set of ten luminaires. So including shipping, each light cost about $110.

$27 for the MODULED GIGA 152100-B-HBG
https://www.cdiweb.c...atronix/574068/

http://www.cutter.co...hp?prod=cut2861
CXB3590-0000-000N0UBD30G (3000K 90CRI)

there was an ebay offer of ten pieces of 5 x 5 x 0.125" 5052 aluminum for $30 delivered.
http://www.ebay.com/...+5+x+5&_sacat=0

M5 x 20mm spacers:
https://www.grainger...OTAVAIL?smthumb$
M5 x 30mm machine screws work well with these.

Wrong version is pictured of the HBG driver:
http://www.onlinecom...html?p=47854446
These are a great deal in my opinion, especially for a ten-pack @ $201. The case is plastic but seems sturdy. More efficient when run on 240V rather than 120V.

IEC power connector allows easy switching between 120 and 240VAC, this is the one for up to 14 AWG: Schurter 4735
http://www.mouser.co...ajuZ1fTPw%3d%3d

The HBG driver has a small rubber plug underneath that covers the PCB pot. My design is easy enough to disassemble for adjustment but the luminaire needs to be on a bench. The HBG-60-1400 dims down to 910mA so that's 65% of maximum.

I've been adjusting mine for 56W from the wall so the COB sees about 50W. Hooked up to a Kill-a-Watt, the driver pulled from 25W to 65W. At 65W, the heatsink was quite warm.

I'm very happy with the Fieldpiece ST4 temperature meter: http://www.fieldpiec...l-temperature/. The Ideal holders need a corner cut out (with a small abrasive cutoff wheel) for access to the COB measurement point.

I read somewhere that 30 AWG thermocouple wire was preferred for this application so I bought some of these:http://www.omega.com...5LSC_5SRTC.html
Cree recommends K type for their COBs except for the CXA(B)3590 where type T is preferred. Type T would require a different meter and I haven't seen a technical reason for using it on the bigger COBs.

tr909 · Aug 17, 2016

Hello guys.

Im going to build one luminarie:
Led cxb3070 + hbg 60-1400. + moduled mega 13450 heatsink

Could you please guys tell me where i have tu set the (I/O Trimmer) for 50W?

if i read well this post. at the maximum the led would be working at 65w , too much for my heatsink ,

I want to set the unit @ 1400 ma , 63v , 49W
check the picture below. please

another doubt is the driver at the output delivers 45.5V , and the COB LED works @ 36v

i need some help please: )

thanks in advance !

sanjuan · Aug 17, 2016

Hi tr909,

Each COB and driver varies a little bit but if you turn the pot full CW a Kill-a-Watt meter usually reads just over 60W from the wall. It was only one combination of driver and COB that yielded 65W, as I recall. The driver is about 90% efficient so 54W goes to the COB. I'll guess the CXB3070 efficiency is near 50% at 1400mA so only 27 or 30W of heat needs to be dissipated by the heatsink. This should be within the capabilities of the Mega 100mm (although I've never seen nor used that series). I set my HBGs at 56W from the wall but that's just being fussy. (0.9 x 56W = 50.4W)

Of the ten HBGs I have, they seemed to be tuned at the factory for just over 50W from the 120V wall (driving CXB3590).

The constant current region of the HBG-60-1400 is 28 ~ 43V, so no worries. Did you measure that voltage with an open circuit? The spec for that condition is 50V.

Edit: another reason I reported 65W at the meter: taking the reading as soon as the COB was turned on. As the diodes heat up, the Vf goes down while the current remains constant from the supply. This means I can watch the meter drop a few watts during the first few minutes.

sanjuan · Aug 17, 2016

As an update to the ModuLED Giga series heatsink, two out of ten samples had a washboard surface across the COB area. I didn't do anything to correct it but I can see the quality problem that someone here wasn't happy about. I'm not sure what the manufacturing process is, small striations are straight and parallel--waterjet is my best guess.

tr909 · Aug 17, 2016

HI San Juan ,
Thanks for your answer.
Im based in Spain .
Measured the output driver ( driver plugged direct to the wall 220V ) and at the output the multimetert reads 45.5 V another driver ( same model) reads , 45.8v ( The multimeter is not very accurate ) i suppose its normal.

im not professional

So , i read 45.v im worried as the Cob works at 36 V . but you cleared that its normal, right?
do you suggest to turn the trimmer CW , up to 80 / 90% for example?

are you able to measure the trimmer with a multimeter ? i hope is not to much to ask

A picture of the trimmer to see the exact position also helps

thanks in advance.

sanjuan · Aug 18, 2016

In circuit, the driver will be outputting whatever total forward voltage the diodes add up to. Setting the pot at 90% will be fine. Are there calibration marks on the dial? My units are all assembled now.

tr909 · Aug 18, 2016

yes. they are marked by bars.
is identical to this one on the image

best option is to buy a ( W meter plugged on wall i think) @56w , the led will be working @ 50w more or less.

can i set the trimmer to the maximum?
that would give me 57w led - 8900lm more or less , according the cree table.

im right? is there any problem of overheating with my config?

To set the driver at 56w i think the trimmer could be @the bar # 11.
bar # 12 would be 60w driver?

Thanks for your help.

sanjuan · Aug 18, 2016

I think 100% will be fine. The CXB3070 is a good series for the money (in my opinion) and while they can't handle high current like the CXA/B3590's, they should be fine for temperature on the ModuLED Mega heatsink, 100mm in length. As I said before, I'm not familiar with the Mega series but the Giga is just a bigger version and I love my Giga's, overall.

Edit: yes, I think setting the pot at one increment less than maximum is an excellent idea.

tr909 · Aug 22, 2016

Thanks so much

also im going to buy the separators , HBG-60 CONNECTOR SET

but i can save money if i buy some nylon spacers as you did..

i suppose they will fit well .

what you recommend ? thermal pads or thermal paste?

sanjuan · Aug 22, 2016

A connector set would be the most convenient method. Here in the US, I had to order M5 X 20mm spacers from Grainger, an industrial supplier.

I have no experience with thermal pads and haven't researched them. I'm not much of a bench technician but various thermal greases have always worked for me. (I'm not saying thermal paste because I don't want it to be confused with thermal epoxy.)

OneHitDone · Aug 22, 2016

sanjuan said:
I finally put together an LED luminaire. The only difficult thing was attaching the thermocouple. It seems to be reading too low, only 10C above ambient, but the assembly is very cool. I just found my light meter so I'll check for current droop and look at Kill-A-Watt, should be 50W from the wall. The COB is from cutter, 3000K 90CRI BD flux bin. Heatsink from CDIweb.com and driver from onlinecomponents.com. Aluminum plate is 5052 alloy from ebay.

Adapter plate drill pattern:
View attachment 3694690
I printed this actual size and taped it to the aluminum for locating the center punch.

View attachment 3694692 View attachment 3694695 View attachment 3694696

I spliced in 18 AWG solid wire instead of this routing. The Mean Well cable wasn't shortened, just tucked up under the adapter plate.
View attachment 3694697
View attachment 3694700

Are those Lumigo's on the other end of the room?

sanjuan · Aug 22, 2016

OneHitDone said:
Are those Lumigo's on the other end of the room?

It was a Lumigrow Pro 325 (x 4) setup, the new HBG light was just hung at the end. The 3000K light is noticeably yellow compared to the blue/white/red Lumigrow diodes. I'm adding a 36V 5000K COB to a pair of 72V 3000K's for my current build, a 225W bar.

The vegetation looked very healthy under the COB for the last half of flowering. I've been causing some foxtailing by showering the plants with too many photons from the Lumigrows, pheno dependent.

The Lumigrows are being retired because of fan noise and the high power coming from a fairly small panel, causing light distribution problems.

OneHitDone · Aug 22, 2016

sanjuan said:
It was a Lumigrow Pro 325 (x 4) setup, the new HBG light was just hung at the end. The 3000K light is noticeably yellow compared to the blue/white/red Lumigrow diodes. I'm adding a 36V 5000K COB to a pair of 72V 3000K's for my current build, a 225W bar.

The vegetation looked very healthy under the COB for the last half of flowering. I've been causing some foxtailing by showering the plants with too many photons from the Lumigrows, pheno dependent.

Garden looks great.
What is your impression of the lumigrows overall?

sanjuan · Aug 22, 2016

My overall impression of LumiGrow is that it was a good company wrecked by venture capital. They do have UL rating now and I'm guessing that gets them into some big commercial, insured grow operations. The two newest versions of mine are UL listed but they dry out my plants due to the airflow design.

Edit: and thanks for the compliment about the garden. These plants were almost culled but I decided to see if I could do a run of S.A.G.E. without hermies. Nope, seven phenos had no visible nanners but a bizillion tiny proto seeds. I've only found one full size seed in each of the two rounds (so far; this is still better than WA rec store bud once I painstakingly clean it).

Edit2: The Hydrofarm "Autopilot" multi-timer has bright green LEDs I will be taping off. Other than that, the plants had no reason to hermie. I've done multiple strains under Lumigrow--it can grow very good bud. But not any better than my buddy grew under 600W HPS (old school ballast with a good horizontal reflector).

Edit3: I just realized, the pictured garden is my run of mapito which was the first round of this SAGE seed batch. The second round used coco coir and perlite, 70/30, in #1 Smart Pots. These were my first two experiences of using flood-and-drain. Both methods work but I'm still tempted to go back to Tropf Blumats in coco.

sanjuan · Aug 22, 2016

Someone at another forum was wondering how difficult these are to assemble. I said it's quite easy for someone who has built model kits and computers. I threw together a pictorial showing crimp and solder methods (I prefer the solder and heatshrink for reliability).

Mean Well HBG-60-1400 on ModuLED Giga with CXB3590

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