Mean Well HBG-60-1400 on ModuLED Giga with CXB3590

R

rocho

Well-Known Member
hi, long time i'm looking for that solution for my first DIY COB, it seems to be easier than all other for a complete newbie like me.
Sorry for my bad english, i'd have some questions about your project.

what size your heatsink is? 152mmx100mm or 152x150mm?

I think the alloy plate may be substitute from thi, its cheaper and easier.

https://www.cdiweb.com/ProductDetail/HBG160CONNECTORSET-MechaTronix/574151/
am i wrong?

"IEC power connector allows easy switching between 120 and 240VAC, this is the one for up to 14 AWG"
I don't understand , why did you install this? may not obtain the same function wiring with a single cable to the driver?

Id like to make it with a vero 29 gen7, do you think should it be a good idea?...mega version is cheaper and easier to install on MW hlg 60....may it be too warm in your opinion??

sorry for my lots of question! thank you so much!
 
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sanjuan

sanjuan

Well-Known Member
Hi rocho,

Cree is probably not the best for the money right now so Vero or Citizen might be better choices. I couldn't tell you what to buy right now; I haven't kept up with things.

I'm in the USA so an IEC computer type connector allows 120V or 240V without a dangerous "cheater" plug using the 120V prong configuration. (The IEC standard is still a hazard for overvolting some other device.) Use whatever termination is standard for your region.

The HBG160 connector set is too big for the HBG60 bolt pattern, that is why I fabricated the adapter plate.

The 100mm length heatsink is what I have.
 
R

rocho

Well-Known Member
Hi again. What could you tell me about heat dissipation, is it a good alternative to classic active cooling lamps? I m looking after this setting and i don t know if may be a good idea choose the 134100 heatsink(0,67°C/w) for about 27 eur (no need adapting aloy play) or this (0,52 c/w)for about 35eur...or the 152150(0,46°c/w) for 45eur and also need the adapter like yours.the cob would be a less heater vero29v7 and of course run at 1.4 A....about your experience what do you raccomand me...following datasheet134100 should be enought and your almost "oversized"but your straight esperience is more important than theory...
 
sanjuan

sanjuan

Well-Known Member
I think I'd use the ModuLED Mega 134100-B-HBG and keep things simple. It will obviously run warmer than a 152mm diameter model of the same length but the name brand COBs are rugged. Use either the Mechatronix connector set or use spacers to provide an air gap under the driver.

As to how I like passive cooling compared to active fans, I like it a lot. Construction of luminaires is less complicated and I prefer a quiet grow room, just for hanging out in. I paid top dollar for EBM-Papst 1600rpm fans installed on a set of seven luminaires and they aren't loud but they're not quiet.
 
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R

rocho

Well-Known Member
Hi Sanjuan, thanx for hou kindly answer. Also with 152100 i'd keepthings easy, i simply would not waste money in an oversized heatsink, you know, best led cooling would be best light performance and you probably agree with me if you were choosing that instead of 134100,have you never took some temperature value on you cob? Finally I'm sorry, i can't translate your "but the name brand cobs are rugged"...of course i would use also on 134100 at least 10mm spacer as i read on mechatronic instruction, maybe 20 mm like you!..but i'm really undecided on what to buy, never mind to spend 40 euros more for a lamp i hope to use for many years..just choose without future regret and without waste money.
 
sanjuan

sanjuan

Well-Known Member
A CXB3590 3000K 90CRI BD bin on the ModuLED Giga 100mm stays below 50 C when drawing 55W from the wall, according to the thermocouple and an IR thermometer gun. I believe these Cree are designed to run at 85 C. When I say "name brand", I mean Cree, Citizen, and Bridgelux--not ebay junk.

The nice thing about LEDs is the more you have in a certain grow area, the lower power to each individual COB means higher efficiency. So with a dimmable driver like most Mean Wells, you can build more in the future and turn down the current. Don't be a dummy like me--I blasted young seedlings with all the lights at nearly full power. Combined with leaf miners, I almost scrapped the grow.

I now use a digital light meter to gage the illuminance at plant height.
 
R

rocho

Well-Known Member
Hi, 50°C is a good value, if it is true that cree and other good COBs could run up to 80°c it is also true that for example with cxb3590 BD driving at 1.4A you would get at different temperature:

143.4 lm/w (48.8W)at 25°C 6998 Lm
136.8 lm/w (48.3W)at 50°C 6607 Lm
128.7 lm/w (47.7W)at 80°C 6139 Lm

Driving 4 cobs at 1.4 A at 25°C(i think thats impossible to get also by a fans cooling) instead of 80°C(a really terrible dissipation) you would have 3436 more Lumen with the same 4 lamps.....like a 200w halogen lamp!
Thats why maybe spend 40 or 80 euros more could be not a wasting of money....it is impossible for me calculate the real advantages from a 134100 VS 152100 VS 152150...if it may be only a few degree temperature i'd never mind to spend more than for a 134100....

P.s
which kind of instrument and optimal values did you use to gauge the light power?
p.s.2
on MW datasheet hbg-60 seems not dimmable, are there 2 different versiones by any chance?
 
sanjuan

sanjuan

Well-Known Member
The data sheet and reality says the enclosed model (for sure) is dimmable by an internal pot. I don't see any info that excludes the bare board version. http://www.meanwell-bg.com/files/M2015H2/HBG-60-spec.pdf

I use an earlier version of this light meter:
Hydrofarm Light Meter.jpg
https://www.hydrofarm.com/p/LG17010 The description at growershouse.com says this can also display LUX. (1 footcandle = 10.7639 LUX)

I burnt my seedlings at 3000 footcandles, I think 2000 is OK.
The plants are now at 3.5 weeks of 12/12hr after 3 weeks of vegging from seed. I just checked the top bud of the tallest phenos and they were getting 8000 footcandles. I raised the lights for a 7000 footcandle reading, maximum. Someone said 5 to 6000 footcandles is good for budding and I think I agree.

My current grow doesn't even include the luminaires in this thread. I need to dim them down further, as well as dimming down the existing bars, if I want to use all my lights. I'm tired of maintaining reservoirs so I'm not running as many plants as I used to.
 
R

rocho

Well-Known Member
sanjuan said:
The data sheet and reality says the enclosed model (for sure) is dimmable by an internal pot. I don't see any info that excludes the bare board version. http://www.meanwell-bg.com/files/M2015H2/HBG-60-spec.pdf
(...)
Click to expand...
Hi, i'm not doubting in your words but as you can see heremouser says in item description: "Dimming: Without Dimming "

http://www.mouser.it/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/HBG-60-1400/?qs=IL6XaBr%2b7X%2bRArKfe2Pabw==

and also in your link i could not see any dimming optiond that's the reason i asked you if there are two different vrrsion of hbg-60-1400.
Surfing on web i saw the HBG-100-60 driver. What do you think about?, that may be directly connected to the heatsink holes with spacers isn't it?, it's waterproof and seems also more efficent ...only a little bit more expensive, would you raccomand it?

Really thanx for your lux informations. i'm going to buy a luxometer !!
 
sanjuan

sanjuan

Well-Known Member
The HBG-100 series will bolt onto the Mega heatsink as you say, there are tapped holes for both the 98mm HBG-60 hole pattern and the 113mm diameter hole pattern of the HBG-100.

The HBG-100-48A would be my choice for 36V COBs. The A model's internal pot adjusts current from 1.2 to 2A. The metal case is a good upgrade from the plastic HBG-60. Efficiency is good all the way towards 50% load for 120VAC operation. I think the HBG-100 is a good choice; I was thinking about trying one out but I don't need any more photons.
 
T

tr909

Member

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sanjuan

sanjuan

Well-Known Member
VegasWinner said:
If you can use less paste that would be better. I use a thin plastic sheet to spread a very thin layer, maybe half as think as what you are doing. nice work
Click to expand...
I used a credit card to spread and a lot stays on that. I wasn't going to CPU type thinness because the heatsinks have varying amounts of waviness. But good point, thinner is better.
 
R

rocho

Well-Known Member
sanjuan said:
The HBG-100 series will bolt onto the Mega heatsink as you say, there are tapped holes for both the 98mm HBG-60 hole pattern and the 113mm diameter hole pattern of the HBG-100.

The HBG-100-48A would be my choice for 36V COBs. The A model's internal pot adjusts current from 1.2 to 2A. The metal case is a good upgrade from the plastic HBG-60. Efficiency is good all the way towards 50% load for 120VAC operation. I think the HBG-100 is a good choice; I was thinking about trying one out but I don't need any more photons.
Click to expand...
Sire, i agree! How cold measure 1.4 A out from a hbg-100? Surely by a tester but how?
And from hbg 60 1.4a(100%) is i enought screw dimmer untill potentiometer "end of course" or i d need to measure it
 
sanjuan

sanjuan

Well-Known Member
The current can be measured with a multimeter but you need to connect the meter in series with the COBs. Youtubes can show how to measure current directly.

I estimate output current indirectly by using a Killawatt meter on a 120VAC circuit and subtract the fan (if present) and driver losses. As a rough example, 36V x 1.4A = 50.4W. As I recall, the driver is about 91% efficient. 50.4W divided by 91% is 55.4W--I'd adjust the pot so 55 watts is drawn from the electrical outlet.
 
R

rocho

Well-Known Member
sanjuan said:
The current can be measured with a multimeter but you need to connect the meter in series with the COBs. Youtubes can show how to measure current directly.

I estimate output current indirectly by using a Killawatt meter on a 120VAC circuit and subtract the fan (if present) and driver losses. As a rough example, 36V x 1.4A = 50.4W. As I recall, the driver is about 91% efficient. 50.4W divided by 91% is 55.4W--I'd adjust the pot so 55 watts is drawn from the electrical outlet.
Click to expand...
So on hbg-60 sn't there any "end of scale" for dimm at full power? Your is a smart method but as you sayd a little bit rough..
 
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