Organic Growing Made Easy & Fox Farms Ocean Forest!

Sincerely420

New Member
SOIL SCIENTIST
To understand why management practices make a difference to soil life, it helps to back up and examine the vast diversity of micro- and macro-organisms living in the soil and the critical roles they play in agriculture.
What Lives in Your Soil?
The soil ecosystem is tremendously varied - more-so than many above-ground plant and animal food webs. Each species has slightly different requirements. Aerobic microbes require oxygen. Anaerobes require the absence of oxygen. Some prefer either a high or a low pH, or high or low moisture. Many organisms can digest simple sugars, while only a few species have the enzymes to digest lignin, a major component of woody tissue.
At the microscopic level, soil conditions can change drastically from one point to the next, so a variety of organisms may be present in a single soil sample. Aerobes may live near anaerobes. Organisms requiring high pH may live near those preferring low pH.
Microbes differ greatly in how they get their energy. Most soil organisms are heterotrophs that get their energy and carbon from breaking down organic compounds. In contrast, the autotrophs use inorganic carbon (carbon dioxide). There are two groups of autotrophs. Phototrophs, such as plants and a few soil organisms, get their energy from light. Chemotrophs are a small, but important, group of soil bacteria that get their energy from oxidizing inorganic compounds including ammonium, nitrite, and sulfur compounds.
Macro-organisms, such as mites, beetles, and earthworms, are also tremendously varied in what they eat, their life cycle, and what agricultural conditions they will or will not tolerate. Each plays a different role in eating and breaking down plant residue and their fellow soil organisms.
What Do Soil Organisms Do?
Healthy soil is a jungle of rapacious organisms devouring everything in sight (including each other), processing their prey or food through their innards, and then excreting it. The value of these creatures to farmers lies in:

  • Cycling nutrients.
  • Enhancing soil structure, which improves water and air movement.
  • Controlling disease and enhancing plant growth.
Nutrient cycling
One of the important functions of the soil biological community is managing nutrients. Soil organisms continually transform nutrients among many organic and inorganic forms. (Organic compounds contain carbon. Inorganic compounds do not.) Plants primarily need simple inorganic forms of each nutrient. Soil organisms create many of these plant-available nutrients and help store nutrients in the soil as organic compounds.
Decomposition is the breakdown of plant and animal residue into different organic and inorganic compounds. Soil organisms decompose organic matter more quickly under warm, moist conditions than under cold or dry conditions. This is why it is easier to build up soil organic matter levels in the Midwest than in the southeastern part of the United States, where decomposition is rapid.
As part of the decomposition process, many bacteria and fungi produce humic acids. In the soil, these acids chemically combine with each other to form large molecules of stabilized organic matter. This formation of large molecules is both a biological and chemical process.
When soil organisms convert organic matter into inorganic, plant-available nutrients, they are said to be mineralizing nutrients. Protozoa and nematodes mineralize and excrete several hundred pounds of ammonium (NH[SUB]4[/SUB]+) per acre per day. Most is snatched up by other soil organisms, but some is used by plants.
The reverse of mineralization is immobilization - the conversion of inorganic compounds into organic compounds. Soil organisms consume inorganic molecules and incorporate them into their cells. Because immobilized nutrients are parts of soil organisms, they do not move easily through the soil and are unavailable to plants. Bacteria and fungi are responsible for large amounts of immobilization.
The previous paragraphs described three kinds of transformations performed by many soil organisms:

  • decomposition: turning organic compounds into other organic compounds
  • mineralization: turning organic matter into inorganic compounds that may be used by plants
  • immobilization: turning inorganic compounds into organic compounds. Farmers depend on bacteria for one more transformation:
  • mineral transformation: turning inorganic matter into other inorganic compounds
Bacteria that perform mineral transformations are important in nitrogen cycling. The roots of legumes host nitrogen-fixing bacteria that convert large amounts of dinitrogen (N2) from the atmosphere into forms that plants can use. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria live free in the soil.
Nitrifying bacteria convert ammonia (NH3) into nitrate (NO3+). Plants prefer nitrate, but nitrate is easily leached from the soil. Some farmers apply "nitrification inhibitors" which reduce the activity of nitrifying bacteria and prevent the loss of fertilizer nitrogen from the soil.
Denitrifying bacteria convert nitrate into gases that are lost into the atmosphere. These species are anaerobic so denitrification occurs only in places in the soil where there is little or no oxygen. Anaerobic conditions are more common in compacted soils and in no-till soils.
Other soil bacteria are important for similar mineral transformations of sulfur, iron, and manganese.
Forming soil structure
Most crops grow best in crumbly soil that roots can easily grow through and that allows in water and air. Soil organisms play an important role in the formation of a good soil structure.
As spring turns to summer and the soil heats up, fungi grow long filaments called hyphae that surround soil particles and hold them together in soil aggregates. Some bacteria produce sticky substances that also help bind soil together.
Many soil aggregates between the diameters of 1/1000 and 1/10 of an inch (the size of the period at the end of this sentence) are fecal pellets. Arthropods and earthworms consume soil, digest the bacteria, and excrete a clump of soil coated with secretions from the gut. As beetles and earthworms chew and bury plant residue and burrow through the soil, they aerate the soil and create nutrient-lined channels for roots and water to move through.
Controlling disease and enhancing growth
Soil organisms have many methods for controlling disease-causing organisms. Protozoa, nematodes, insects, and other predatory organisms help control the population levels of their prey and prevent any single species from becoming dominant. Some bacteria and fungi generate compounds that are toxic to other organisms. Some organisms compete with harmful organisms for food or a location on a root.
In addition to protecting plants from disease, some organisms produce compounds that actually enhance the growth of plants. Plant roots may excrete compounds that attract such beneficial organisms.
How Do Soil Organisms and Plants Get Along?
The lives of plants and soil organisms are closely intertwined. Some plant and microbe species have developed symbioses, or mutually beneficial relationships. Rhizobium and other bacteria can invade roots and get sugars from the plant. In return, they fix atmospheric nitrogen into a form that plants can use.

Another group of friendly root-invaders are the mycorrhizal fungi. The fungal hyphae extend from inside the root, out into the soil, and often greatly expand the plant’s access to nutrients and (perhaps) water. Mycorrhizae improve phosphorus nutrition by producing acids that convert phosphorus into plant-available forms and transport the phosphorus back to the root. Most crop species depend on or benefit greatly from mycorrhizal associations.
Not all plant/microbe interactions are invasions. The rhizosphere (the narrow region surrounding each root) is rich in biological activity as bacteria and other microbes feed on the carbon compounds exuded by roots. Plants may exude compounds that attract certain species to the rhizosphere that protect the roots from disease-causing species.
When microbes and plants compete for soil nutrients, microbes have an advantage because they are often suspended in the soil solution while plants must pull the soil solution towards their roots.
In an ideal situation, microbes will tie-up (immobilize) nitrogen and prevent its loss from the rooting zone when plants are not growing, and then will release (mineralize) nitrogen when crops are actively growing. See Organic Matter Management (BU-7402 in this series) for more information about competition between microbes and plants for nitrogen.
When Do Soil Organisms Do Their Work?
The activity of organisms is constantly changing with temperature, moisture, pH, food supply, and other environmental conditions. Different species prefer different conditions, so even at maximum total activity levels only a minority of soil microbes are busily eating and respiring. The highest total activity is in late spring/early summer and in late summer/early fall when the soil is warm and moist. In early spring, some farmers see nutrient deficiency symptoms in their plants because not enough microbes are warm enough to convert organic compounds into plant-available nutrients. Leaching of excess nitrate often happens in early spring when the soil is too cool for either plants or microbes to grow and immobilize the nitrogen.
What Lives in the Soil and What Are They Doing?
Each type of organism fills a unique niche and plays a different role in the cycling of nutrients, the structure of soil, and in pest dynamics.
DescriptionSizeDietTypical amt in ag soilsAction in soil
Bacteria
Usually one-celled
1 um (0.001 mm)Organic matter, especially simple carbon compounds100 mil. to 1 bil. in a teaspoonDecompose organic matter. Immobilize nutrients in the rooting zone.
Rhizobium and other genera fix nitrogen from air.
Convert ammonium to nitrate, and nitrate to nitrogen gasses.
Actinomycetes, which grow as filaments, are important in decomposition at moderate-to-high pH.
Create substances that help bind soil aggregates.
Fungi
Grow in long filaments calleed hyphae
A few um wie, yards or miles longOrganic matter, especially simple carbon compounds. Also, living plantsSeveral yards in a teaspoonDecompose organic matter.
Immobilize nutrients in the rooting zone.
Mycorrhizal fungi form mutually beneficial associa- tions with roots. They release acids that help make phosphorus more available to plants.
Help stabilize soil aggregates.
Protozoa
One-celled animals
5-500 umBacteria, primarilySeveral thousand in a teaspoonStimulate and control growth of bacteria.
Release ammonium.
Nematodes
Roundworms. Not segmented as are earthworms
50 um wide, 1 mm longBacteria, fungi, protozoa, other nematodes, and rootsTen to twenty in a teaspoonControl many disease-causing organisms.
Root-feeders may cause root diseases.
Release ammonium.
Arthropods
Include insects, mites, spiders, springtails, & millipedes
Microscopic to inchesAll other organismsSeveral hundred in a cubic footShred plant residue, making it more accessible to bacteria and fungi.
Enhance soil structure by creating fecal pellets, and by burrowing.
Control populations of other organisms.
EarthwormsInch or more longBacteria, fungi, and organic matterFive to thirty in a cubic footShred plant residue.
Enhance soil structure by burrowing, mixing, and creating fecal pellets.
Transport and stimulate growth of bacteria.
Why is Diversity Important?
Like the above-ground ecosystem, the soil community is not just a collection of individual species, but a complex, interacting food web. Decomposition of a single compound may require several organisms. The creation of aggregates involves a mix of physical and chemical processes and the activity of many types of organisms.
As the complexity of the food web increases, productivity of the soil tends to increase. It is not clear how much complexity is needed, but there are several reasons why complexity is thought to be beneficial.
First, the soil system may be more stable and resilient. If many organisms perform a similar role, the system is not dependent on just a few for that function. A soil disturbance (such as drought or tillage) might reduce the activity of some organisms, but in a complex system others will perform the same functions (such as providing ammonium or degrading a particular compound).
Other benefits of complexity may include improved nutrient cycling, decomposition, and disease control. When many different kinds of organisms are present, many organic compounds and potential pollutants can be degraded, and many competitors and predators are present to control pest populations.

Nematodes: Good Guys or Bad Guys? Nematodes are a group of tiny roundworms that demonstrate the wide diversity and the inextricable food web that exists in a healthy soil. Twenty thousand species have been described, but half a million species may exist. Most soil nematodes eat bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and other nematodes, making them important in nutrient cycling. Others are plant parasites and cause disease symptoms such as malformed or dwarfed plants, or root structures with deformities such as galls and cysts.
The root knot nematode, for instance, stimulates parasitized plants to form root galls. The galls choke off the flow of water and nutrients to the above-ground portion of the plant. Plants infected by root gall nematodes may live through the season but crop yields will be dramatically reduced.
One way to respond to nematode problems is to rotate crops to remove the nematodes’ food source. Another highly effective approach is to build up soil organic matter. The increased organic matter might initially increase nematode populations, but it will also create an explosion of nematode predators such as fungi, mites, and other nematodes.
Fungi prey on nematodes in a number of ways. They trap them with their sticky appendages or squeeze them (like a boa constrictor) in fungal mechanical ring traps. Some fungi exude a toxin to quiet their struggling prey. (Think of these vicious dramas next time you are riding safely in your tractor cab!)
Some nematodes eat undesirable residents of farm fields. Cut worms, for instance, are hunted down by one species of carnivorous nematode. These nematodes (N. carpocapsae) are available from some biological supply catalogues to control cut worms and other crop-damaging underground caterpillars and beetle larva.
Nematodes are not simply pests, but a diverse group of species that play many roles in the soil system.
 

Sincerely420

New Member
About Tru Organics

At Paradigm we believe in a higher standard of quality than that which is currently available by most medical cannabis providers. For too long the medical cannabis community has suffered from the commercialization and profiteering by providers and caregivers at the expense of quality of medicine, and long term health of their patients and members. Paradigm is about quality you can see, taste, and feel.

The Paradigm menu features only 100% Tru Organic options. From our hand selected strains to our concentrates and pre-rolled items; everything is derived and grown using Tru Organics. This means reliable and consistent quality free from mass produced, chemically based hydroponics concerned more with turnover and slick marketing ideas (Charlie Sheen OG Kush, anyone?) than stable genetics and the health of the patient.

Medical Cannabis grown with Tru Organics exhibits the true genetic traits of a given strain or plant. By allowing nature and not chemically based additives to stimulate and foster growth, plants are able to express their individual genetic qualities at the highest level. This means brighter, healthier flowers that are clean tasting, and clean burning (white ash)- lowering the overall impact on a patient while providing relief.

This process of Tru Organics is based on the principals and teachings of the Soil Food Web. The Soil Food Web is a process that has fueled evolution in plants and organisms for thousands of years. It is a natural system with its own intelligent design that encourages growth and evolution while coupled with sustainability. It is a process that cannot be duplicated by hydroponics or basic "potting soil in a container" methods. It is a process and application that takes time and concern but one that ultimately ensures a higher standard of quality for generations.

Healthy soil is teaming with life- microscopic organisms like bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and nematodes. A teaspoon of good garden soil contains over a billion invisible bacteria, fungal hyphae, protozoa, and nematodes all searching for energy to survive- a common denominator amongst all soil life. With the exception of some bacteria known as Chemosynthesizers, which derive energy from sulfur or nitrogen compounds, the rest have to consume something containing carbon in order to receive the energy they need to sustain life. Carbon can come in the forms of organic material supplied from plants, waste produced by other organisms, or the bodies of other organisms. All soil life must find and consume carbon to fuel their metabolism.



This food chain is the basis of the Soil Food Web. However, most organisms eat more than one kind of prey, so in terms of diagramming who eats whom in the soil, you have not just one food chain, but a series of chains, linked and cross-linked to each other. This simple definition represents the highly complex and organized set of interactions and chemical/ physical processes that take place 24 hours a day, 7 days a week in healthy soil.

Despite this commotion of life and activity it is ultimately the plant who is in control. Most people tend to think of a plant as only taking up nutrients through the root system and in turn feeding the leaves and fostering new growth. What few know is that a significant portion of the energy caused by photosynthesis is used by the plant to secrete a chemical through their roots called exudates. Made up of proteins and carbohydrates this process awakens and attracts specific beneficial bacteria and fungi which survive off the exudates and cellular material found around the root tips. All this activity takes place in the rhizosphere, the zone immediately around the roots and extending out roughly just 1/10th of an inch. It is a veritable hub of "life" all competing for the exudates, and/ or water and mineral content found in the rhizosphere.

At the bottom of the Soil Food Web are bacteria and fungi, which are attracted to and feed on exudates. In turn they attract and are eaten by larger organisms- i.e. nematodes and protozoa, that consume bacteria and fungi to fuel their metabolisms. Anything not used is excreted as waste and readily absorbed by the roots as nutrients. This all takes place in the rhizosphere- the site of root nutrient absorption.

At the heart of the Soil Food Web is the plants. Plants control the Soil Food Web for their benefit. Extensive research has shown that plants can control and specifically attract different kinds of fungi and bacteria by the exduates they produce. Different exudates are secreted depending on the current cycle of the growing season and the nutrients required by the plant. Soil fungi and bacteria are like small bags of fertilizer, retaining in their bodies nitrogen and other nutrients they consume from root exudates and other organic material. In relation, nematodes and protozoa act as "fertilizer spreaders" by releasing the nutrients locked up in bacteria and fungi. These nematodes and protozoa accomplish this task by consuming the bacteria and fungi in the rhizosphere. They digest what is needed and excrete the excess carbon and nutrients as waste.



This is the system that has sustained plants since they evolved, their survival depends on this vital interplay of microorganisms. Soil life provides the nutrients required for plant life. Without this system the most important nutrients would drain from the soil, rather than preserved in the bodies of soil life.

When you apply chemical based fertilizers, trace amounts hit the rhizosphere where it is absorbed; but most continues to drain through the soil creating a loss of nutrients you just paid good money for. In addition, chemical based additives kill or chase off important members of the Soil Food Web and dramatically change the soil environment. Important fungal and bacterial relationships don't form when a plant can get free nutrients. When plants are chemically fed, they cease to rely on the microbial interactions to absorb nutrients and microbial populations suffer accordingly. This in turn requires even more chemical nutrients- because the very foundation of the Soil Food Web has been changed.

When the Soil Food Web breaks down, plants become more reliant not only on chemical fertilizers for nutrients but chemical solutions for disease and pest problems. A breakdown in this balance of microorganisms causes soil to deteriorate, fostering the perfect environment for pathogens and pests to form in the absence of healthy soil life.

Why is all this important? Not only because it is the natural, sustainable evolution of life, but because you can make it work for you. Just like enzymes break down waste in septic tanks and specially formulated yogurt regulates our own digestive systems; so to does the Soil Food Web act as an important regulator in nutrient uptake, and disease prevention. A healthy soil ecosystem will hold nutrients in the bodies of Soil Food Web organisms as well as provide around the clock, continuously growing defense systems against pest and diseases- naturally. Plants are healthier and able to truly express their genetic potential because they will get specifically what they need- when they need it.



To see this wonder of mother nature you only have to close your eyes and think of a forest. Think of the giant sequoias towering over you, or of the many small ferns that are scattered about the forest floor. Think of the numerous fields of wildflowers that blossom every spring, or the brilliant colors of fall that seem to only become more diverse, and striking every year. Think of the picturesque stream carrying seemingly endless amounts of fresh clean water out to sea...

Its beautiful, it's a part of our culture and our identity- and no one ever fertilized it.



These environments are completely controlled by the Soil Food Web in which they live. Every single plant produces exudates and in turn attracts beneficial microbiology to its rhizosphere. It is a natural system, and one that operates better without interference from chemical additives and pesticides. The tallest of trees started from the smallest of saplings and continuously evolved without the aids of any miracle powders, and 3 part "A/ B/ Flush" solutions.

With the proper microbiology in soil pathogens face fierce competition, plants absorb the nutrients they need- when they need it, water drainage and retention is improved, fruit and flowers look and taste better, and the plant has little in the way of stress or strain. Most importantly you don't have to worry about the effects of chemicals on you and your family's health and well being.

Tru Organics is more than just a process, but a belief at Paradigm that we have a responsibility to respect and preserve what life has spent thousands of years creating. We believe that through the principals taught by the Soil Food Web we can gain a further developed understanding about our own lives and purpose. It is this legacy of understanding and sustainability that we leave for future generations, and that which we will be ultimately judged by.

https://www.paradigmcollective.org/black/portal.php?portal=tru
 

c4ulater

Active Member
Well currently I have a HPS and a MH bulb. I have currently a cool tube light set up. It'll just cost more $$ to buy another light set up . But at least I wont need another bulb. :) Okay just wanted to know what I should do.
 

c4ulater

Active Member
WHOA didn't see that post above brother! I'll have to get reading later on tonight.

So all my stuff showed up today! WOOHOO. Now what can I mix this in? Like what size tote?
 

Sincerely420

New Member
Soo...I'm on my 3rd soil mix using Fox Farms Ocean Forest as a base soil!

This mix is a little different tho as I'm reusing the soil from 3 plants that I harvest this month!
The soil mix that I used for those 3 plants was:
-1.5 cubic feet Fox Farm Ocean Forest
-30 cups Perlite

-3 tablespoons Hi-Cal lime

-24 cups Earth Worm Castings
-3/4cups Espoma Tomato Tone 3-4-6
-1 1/2cups Algamin Kelp Meal 1-0-2
-3/4cups Espoma Greensand
-7.5 cups Glacial Rock Dust


Off all those amendments added initially, the Kelp meal, the Green sand, and Rock dust will still be very giving to the soil ecosystem, and in prime of their release times by the time I get ready to use the soil again.
The Tomato tone as well potentially.
Given that set of facts, I've only had to LIGHTLY re-amend the soil and will have recycle it to get everything rolling again.

But why recycle your soil? Why not just buy new soil with every grow?
1.$$$ for one.
2.Living soils get BETTER with time. Do a quick Google search on "Soil Fertility" to make yourself familiar!
3.To NEVER have to buy soil again

And what I mean by a living soil, or a super soil, or an amended soil, is a soil that is complete.
A soil that has been enriched minerally as well as nutritionally! I could go so far as to saying a soil that has been inoculated as well, but mixing in mycorrhizae isn't a must. Just highly recommended given the relationship between the roots and the living soil.

In doing what I'm doing tho, or at least attempting to do
, you can start with a few bags of Fox Farms Ocean Forest and develop a far more superior product over time by your lonely. The way to do so is cultivating the life in our soil!

Replenishing the sources of compost and the nutrition and mineral amendments, adding less and less over time until you've created a fertile, self sustaining soil.
Once you've built up a nice heard of micro organisms in your soil, they pretty much serve as the both the provider and the protector of our plants!

Below are pics of the 3 root balls that I broke back down to recycle their soil!

View attachment 2586390View attachment 2586389View attachment 2586387View attachment 2586388Dinafem Blue Widow Root Massw/ Perlite Lined Bottom. Roughly 4 gallons of soil. In the 3rd pic, you can also see how much soil I started out to begin with! About an inch or so lined the bottom. After 3 root balls broking down, the tupperware is full again!
View attachment 2586393View attachment 2586394View attachment 2586396View attachment 2586397View attachment 2586398<-Dinafem Blue Widow Root Mass Broken down!

View attachment 2586417View attachment 2586416View attachment 2586418View attachment 2586419Nirvana "autoflowering" Bubblicious Root Mass
View attachment 2586412View attachment 2586413View attachment 2586409View attachment 2586420View attachment 2586404View attachment 2586403
^^Nirvana "autoflowering" Bubblicious(Perlite Lined Bottom)
View attachment 2586402View attachment 2586406View attachment 2586401View attachment 2586405View attachment 2586407Nirvana "autoflowering" Bubblicious(Digging The Perlite Outta The Bottom. Was About 1/2" thick layer)
View attachment 2586411View attachment 2586415View attachment 2586414Nirvana "autoflowering" Bubblicious Root Mass Broken Down!

View attachment 2586429View attachment 2586428View attachment 2586434 Seedsman White Widow Root Mass Exposed!
View attachment 2586431View attachment 2586432View attachment 2586433View attachment 2586430 Seedsman White Widow Root Mass Broken Down!


So we went from this:
View attachment 2586390View attachment 2586398
View attachment 2586416View attachment 2586414
View attachment 2586428View attachment 2586430
View attachment 2586431View attachment 2586433View attachment 2586432

To this:

View attachment 2586448View attachment 2586444View attachment 2586447View attachment 2586445View attachment 2586446My products(amendment wise) are the very same once I bought back in October! Yep..I haven't had to buy anything else(amendment wise) since!
And I wont have to for another couple grows.
Compost and Worm Castings are the exception to that tho...I had to pick up some new bagged compost and bagged EWCs to work with.
Unless you produce your own, you'll be getting new bags of each every grow!




View attachment 2586452 <-Nice New Soil After Adding All of The Above! Much darker in color, and nice and loamy!
View attachment 2586454Made a nice "jumpstart" AACT that I bubbled for a solid 24hs to get the microbe action started on the right foot!
This tea consisted of :
1 gallon dechlorinated H20
1/4 cup Ancient Forest Compost
1 teaspoon Kelp Meal
1/2 teaspoon Neptune's Harvest
2 teaspoons Unsulphured Molasses


View attachment 2586462View attachment 2586457View attachment 2586464View attachment 2586463<-The finished product! Minus 1 motnh time for it to "cook" or "cycle"!


And there we have it! I've successfully recycled the soil from my first grow, watered it with an AACT, and will let it sit for at least a month, turning it once weekly before I use it!

As always, I will post pics with results of this recycled mix in time!

Cheers to Success And Stashing Cash!
This is how I did it boss!
I feel like the mixing part is a more to each his own type thing, where you do what works best for you ya know?!
Got those worms today too by the way boss! For now I just threw them in a bucket of soil I haven't amended yet. The old root ball from the last harvests :joint:
 

c4ulater

Active Member
Yeah buddy!

Finally got into the worm farm game! Woo. Mine are looking real nice. Picked my corns from the garden and feeding them the skin and cobs. THEY IS LOOKIN PHAT AND RICH. Can't wait to harvest this vermicompost. Smells like earth for real bro. I never knew something like this could smell so good.


Naw - what I was asking. If I mix this in a tote, if I can . How big should I get ? I see people doing them on tarps, but that loops messy. Or in a small little kids pool. Again, messy.

I'd rather do this in a rubbermaid tote. Could you give me a guess on the size I should use?
 

Sincerely420

New Member
I say do with the 18 gallon? That's what I been using. BUT, if you're gonna mix a big batch (I think 4 you said?), you may wanna use something a little bigger to mix them in boss! And I can't wait to get to harvest some too man! That's the good stuff lol.
and some fresh corn on the cob sounds so damn good right about now!! :leaf:

PS. the pics from the post above are visible on the OP a few pages back boss
 

Timewasmoney1

New Member
A thing that irks me is inorganic growers only care about "getting the most bud" they say screw anything else!

got my organic mix made up and threw a blueberry gum in it its going great so far! When my blue dream pops its going in it also
 

Sincerely420

New Member
Yeahh it's crazy man. Now that I'm smoking my own, I can really taste a difference between bud organic flowers and non.

One things for sure, as more ppl get their hands on organic bud, more ppl will prefer it! The taste is ntoicably different for sure!
But hey, some ppl are gonna always wanna that extra "whatever" the taste is you get from ferts.
To each his own tho lol.
Let them have it.

I just can process spending the money on bottled nutrients DAMN!
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
I know a couple hydro growers that spend in one month on nutes on what I spend in 6-8 months. I know one guy who buys rapid start and canazyme every week. ..... I'm pretty sure they both do the same thing. For me I buy a couple coconuts every week and I get more enzymes out of the coconuts than out of bottles. Plus trace minerals.
 

Timewasmoney1

New Member
Not gonna lie organic ferts can add up if you want the whole shabang. However theyll last a good amount of time for how little you need to use. Except wormcasting now that can rack up a bill -_-
 

c4ulater

Active Member
This tea consisted of :
1 gallon dechlorinated H20
1/4 cup Ancient Forest Compost
1 teaspoon Kelp Meal
1/2 teaspoon Neptune's Harvest
2 teaspoons Unsulphured Molasses


....

okay so for this mix here, did you just put everything in that gallon and cooked it? or did you make some kind of tea bag?
 

Sincerely420

New Member
Not gonna lie organic ferts can add up if you want the whole shabang. However theyll last a good amount of time for how little you need to use. Except wormcasting now that can rack up a bill -_-
Yeahh I dropped about $100 on everything back in October, and haven't had to buy anything but worm castings and compost since.
Castings are EXPENSIVE lol bcuz they're the best fertilizer you can get, but compost is cheap and goes a long way so it sorta balances out.
But I made that initially investment back in October and have since then harvested 8 plants, and recycled all their soi(about 3 cu ft worth)l, and I don't need to buy anything new, but Bat Guano which is $8.
So it's safe to say that spending $100 on your organic line-up(meals and dusts and fish hydro) will last you at least a year!
I'll update for sure when I need to buy things again tho, to put it in perspective! But for now, I'm about $100 in and 8 months running on the same supplies!
 

Sincerely420

New Member
This tea consisted of :
1 gallon dechlorinated H20
1/4 cup Ancient Forest Compost
1 teaspoon Kelp Meal
1/2 teaspoon Neptune's Harvest
2 teaspoons Unsulphured Molasses


....

okay so for this mix here, did you just put everything in that gallon and cooked it? or did you make some kind of tea bag?
Put all of the above into a gallon of water and bubble it for 18-24hours! Once you've bubbled that long, you can water the soil mix with your tea.
Once you do this, your soil mix starts cooking, or cycling everything that you've added! Takes anywhere from 2wk-1month. You'll now the soil is ready why is smells SUPER earthy rather than the way it did right after you first mixed it :joint:
 

Timewasmoney1

New Member
Got my compost covered by my 2 horses. Have a huuuge pile of poo in the pasture :)

castings are great ya just wish a tad cheaper. I think in my area they run 16-18$ a bag
 

Timewasmoney1

New Member
This tea consisted of :
1 gallon dechlorinated H20
1/4 cup Ancient Forest Compost
1 teaspoon Kelp Meal
1/2 teaspoon Neptune's Harvest
2 teaspoons Unsulphured Molasses


....

okay so for this mix here, did you just put everything in that gallon and cooked it? or did you make some kind of tea bag?
not need but if you can throw some fish oil in it. 2 teaspoons on bsm seems a little low
 

Sincerely420

New Member
The Neptune Harvest is fish hydro bro, and you can go up to about 2tbsp per gal of Molasses true.
I just always heir on the light side with in since I use it SO MUCH, and once overdosed my plants on it.
The more I put in the tea, the more molasses I'll use! Like had I used some Bat Guano in that recipe.
But you are right, the recipe at Microbe Organics calls for almost 2tbsp per gallon.
I've had success using a little less tho bro.

Thanks for the mention
 

Sincerely420

New Member
Got my compost covered by my 2 horses. Have a huuuge pile of poo in the pasture :)

castings are great ya just wish a tad cheaper. I think in my area they run 16-18$ a bag
Damn I wish I had a couple horses man! And my area run about the same boss. You can get a BIG ASS bag of wiggleworms, but for a little better grade of casting it's cost SO MUCH MORE lol.
 
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