GreenSanta
Well-Known Member
cann, I have a useless question that will help nobody. Why are your bamboo sticks upside down lol?
plus it makes your huge colas look not so huge!!! haha
plus it makes your huge colas look not so huge!!! haha
Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread
- Thread starter headtreep
- Start date
Shwagbag
Well-Known Member
I use them the same way.... Less root disturbance is my logic. Albeit insignificant, that's how my mind works and I can't help it lol.
Cann
Well-Known Member
hehe yup my thinking is along those lines...
plus its nice to have a large thing to tie branches to instead of a flimsy little stick. i also try and pick the thickest bamboo pieces I can find @ the hardware store..there is a huge variance in diameter for the same price. definitely hard to judge the cola size based on the bamboo lol they are all different sizes...i'll post some cola beer bottle shots in a few days once I get around to it..that'll give some good perspective
plus its nice to have a large thing to tie branches to instead of a flimsy little stick. i also try and pick the thickest bamboo pieces I can find @ the hardware store..there is a huge variance in diameter for the same price. definitely hard to judge the cola size based on the bamboo lol they are all different sizes...i'll post some cola beer bottle shots in a few days once I get around to it..that'll give some good perspective
kushking42
Well-Known Member
unless u really need support, skinny end down is the way to go. if your using them to support a large diameter remesh cage then put the fat end down first like a telephone pole. the 8' poles have a pretty thick diameter . internally close to the root structure skinny end down seems to pierce the soil with less disturbance. hate pushing bamboo through thick roots.
Cann
Well-Known Member
hehe i can only imagine the destruction that a 1/2 inch diameter bamboo stake imparts when rammed into living soil..thousands of dead lifeforms, severed roots, disturbed fungal networks and bacterial communities, etc.
not that the soil and plant won't immediately adapt and recover...
but still a scenario to be avoided when possible..the less disturbance the better - the essence of no-till farming
not that the soil and plant won't immediately adapt and recover...
but still a scenario to be avoided when possible..the less disturbance the better - the essence of no-till farming
Shwagbag
Well-Known Member
I would agree, unless the disturbance is in the root zone.
dl290485
Well-Known Member
I'm finally getting to the bit where I mix up my first ROLS soil
Have/ordered already:
My questions:
Have/ordered already:
- 8x 25L planter bags
- 48L Lava rock
- 80L coco coir
- 75L EWC
- 9kg Rock dust mix which says on the bag "calcium 5%, Phosphorus .08%, Sulphur .04%, Potassium 3%, Magnesium 2.5%, Silicon 25%, Iron 5.5"
- Liquid kelp extract- 'Seasol'
- Great White
Haven't been able to get:
- Kelp meal- I don't know where to buy this other than health food rip-off stores.
- Neem meal- Is impossible to get in this country because no one imports it
- Crab meal- I can't afford to pay $27 a kilo for fresh crab and haven't found anywhere to scrounge the shells from yet. As for buying it already powdered, it's yet another product not sold in this country.
Soil recipe thus far:
Originally I was going to do even parts Coco coir + EWC + Lava rock but i've ended up will less lava rock than planned and I don't want to spend any more money on it (so many bills, so little money). - So the end ratio i'm going with is 24% lava rock, 38.5% coco coir, 37.5% ewc. (48L, 77L, 75L)
- Rock dust directions say 1kg per 100L but i'll use double that and use 4kg for the 200L
- Watered in with the liquid kelp + great white
My questions:
- What am I missing because of the lack of Crab meal?
Obviously Chiten is missing, but how bad am I going to miss that? My dust has some calcium in it, but do I have to put something else in the soil for more minerals maybe? - What about the neem meal?
Obviously I won't get the pest resistence from the neem, but am I going to be missing out on elements? (I ask because i've read it acts as a slow release fertilizer) - And the kelp meal?
Can I use liquid kelp while watering to substitute for the fact that I don't have kelp meal in the soil mix? I know the liquid has practically no NPK but i've read that the meal breaks down and is a 'slow release fertilzer'- so again, is this something I need to replace for elements sake or will liquid kelp help? - Should I think about mixing in some Blood and Bone?
I know i'm meant to be feeding the soil and not the plant but.... maybe a bit of this too? Maybe I need to since i'm missing 3 components described as slow release fertilizers? lol also if i believe the label it encourages soil life - Anything else?
dl290485
Well-Known Member
Only peat I can find is $5.95 per 5 liters. So if rounding 77L up to 80L at that rate would cost me $95.20 if I replaced all the coco with it. Even if I only replaced half, that's still a lot of money (to me).
The coco brick cost me $13.50 for 90L (looks more like 80L though maybe)
The coco brick cost me $13.50 for 90L (looks more like 80L though maybe)
hyroot
Well-Known Member
My brother took back his dehydrater. So I can't make aloe powder easily now. Im going to try 2 other methods to make aloe powder.
1. vacuum sublimation. I only have a food saver to vacuum with an air tight container so it will take a while.
2. Freeze sublimation. Takes about a week or so supposedly. Works the same way as freezer curing buds.
I thought of just drying it out in the 106 degree dry heat outside. The dehydrater runs at a little under 140 degrees. But I read that too much air flow and air pollution can create problems. Thats with dehydrating foods under the sun. Im sure aloe applies to that.
Let you all know how it goes.
1. vacuum sublimation. I only have a food saver to vacuum with an air tight container so it will take a while.
2. Freeze sublimation. Takes about a week or so supposedly. Works the same way as freezer curing buds.
I thought of just drying it out in the 106 degree dry heat outside. The dehydrater runs at a little under 140 degrees. But I read that too much air flow and air pollution can create problems. Thats with dehydrating foods under the sun. Im sure aloe applies to that.
Let you all know how it goes.
Hello guys . I just want to ask you about something that in my mind ... My question is this - Some fishes in aquarium who poops and eat the algea and some snails who eat the waste ot the algea and some of the part of the fishes poops can the water be used like a kind of fertilizer or a supplement to the medium for more nutes ?! Are anyone used the water from his aquarium for this or not . I think this water its full of everything for our ladies but is it good for using it or not ? I have lily or maybe to say ( dunno which is the better word to use it ) flower - de - luce which is much better and stronger when I put it on in the aquarium with the snails and my fishes who are pooping to enough 
. Thanks and have a nice day . 
. Thanks and have a nice day . 
headtreep
Well-Known Member
It seems the other player have gone back to 2.0 SST instead of the Malted Barley Flour. Of course fresh will always be better than a powder. I plan to use the rest of my powder and revert back to 2.0. Cheers!
Sprouted Seed Tea v2.0
Jon Stika of Brew Your Own Magazine describes malt as "barley that has been sprouted to the point where enzymes are produced that will convert its starchy interior to sugar." After the grain has been malted, the sugar is fermented by yeast to make beer.
This is an accurate overview of an article he wrote for those who want to make their own malt and here's the Reader's Digest version:
Weigh out 2 oz. of Barley seed and remove any foreign matter by the seeds into a large jar and fill it half-way with water and agitate to wash the barley. Pour off loose husks & dirt that float to the top. Drain in a colander. Repeat until everything has been removed.
Soak the seeds in water for 8 - 10 hours. Drain the seeds and weigh after completely draining the water off. Assuming you started with 56 grams, you want to hit a minimum of 84 grams at the end of these processes.
Let the Barley rest for 8 - 10 hours and then soak for another 8 hours, drain and weigh. Repeat if necessary but that's not too unlikely.
Take a piece of cloth and you want to use something as 'raw' as possible like hemp cloth, organic cotton, linen, canvas, flax, etc. - just check with a large fabric store. If you buy a piece that is a square it probably helps or doesn't.
Wet your cloth, wring out and fold it 2 times. During the rest cycles this is where you want to let the seeds rest. You want moisture surrounding the seeds but not water.
Once you hit 84+ grams, spread your seeds again in the middle of this folded piece of fabric, place that in a brown paper bag - 55F - 65F ambient temperatures will move this along quickly.
When the shoots inside the seed have grown the length of the seed you're done. You're not growing sprouts but rather activating the enzymes and the compounds in the endosperm as described in the post above.
Take these seeds and put them in a blender and some water and get it to a puree to the extent possible. Using 56 grams to start will give enough puree to make 5 gallons of tea.
Water your plants with this diluted tea. This will give you far, far more enzymes than the straight sprouting method. One thing about beer brewers is that they live & die by enzyme levels extracted from seeds and this article is cited on several home brew forums.
Sprouted Seed Tea v2.0
Jon Stika of Brew Your Own Magazine describes malt as "barley that has been sprouted to the point where enzymes are produced that will convert its starchy interior to sugar." After the grain has been malted, the sugar is fermented by yeast to make beer.
This is an accurate overview of an article he wrote for those who want to make their own malt and here's the Reader's Digest version:
Weigh out 2 oz. of Barley seed and remove any foreign matter by the seeds into a large jar and fill it half-way with water and agitate to wash the barley. Pour off loose husks & dirt that float to the top. Drain in a colander. Repeat until everything has been removed.
Soak the seeds in water for 8 - 10 hours. Drain the seeds and weigh after completely draining the water off. Assuming you started with 56 grams, you want to hit a minimum of 84 grams at the end of these processes.
Let the Barley rest for 8 - 10 hours and then soak for another 8 hours, drain and weigh. Repeat if necessary but that's not too unlikely.
Take a piece of cloth and you want to use something as 'raw' as possible like hemp cloth, organic cotton, linen, canvas, flax, etc. - just check with a large fabric store. If you buy a piece that is a square it probably helps or doesn't.
Wet your cloth, wring out and fold it 2 times. During the rest cycles this is where you want to let the seeds rest. You want moisture surrounding the seeds but not water.
Once you hit 84+ grams, spread your seeds again in the middle of this folded piece of fabric, place that in a brown paper bag - 55F - 65F ambient temperatures will move this along quickly.
When the shoots inside the seed have grown the length of the seed you're done. You're not growing sprouts but rather activating the enzymes and the compounds in the endosperm as described in the post above.
Take these seeds and put them in a blender and some water and get it to a puree to the extent possible. Using 56 grams to start will give enough puree to make 5 gallons of tea.
Water your plants with this diluted tea. This will give you far, far more enzymes than the straight sprouting method. One thing about beer brewers is that they live & die by enzyme levels extracted from seeds and this article is cited on several home brew forums.
yankeegreen
Active Member
Malted barley is available at your local HBS. The premium maybe worth foregoing the messy, time and space consuming malting process yourself. Is the SST 2.0 process different enough from commercial malting procedures to make it a deal breaker? Any idea if the pre-malted barley (or other grains) loose enough of their freshly-malted goodness over time?
headtreep
Well-Known Member
I've been using the powder and getting great results but it does make sense to use fresh if available before any powders imo and could be more cost effective. CC'd mentioned going back to SST 2.0 but took a break the forum without any real explanation on why. Anyone running a side by side currently with pics? SS 2.0 vs 3.0? That would be great to see.
Off subject, I won't be around RIU too often anymore because of time issues. Hopefully things change but for now it's out of my control. I can't keep up with these large threads and life balance.
Please keep on the ROLS/No till journey!
Stoned Drifter
Well-Known Member
will sunflower seeds work for sst 2.0?
Cann
Well-Known Member
anything that will germinate and produce enzymes...
although barley is known for its high diastatic power - a.k.a. amount of enzymes. this is the reason barley is preferred by brewers...its all in the enzymes
i've used mung beans, hemp seeds, alfalfa, barley, fenugreek, etc....really anything that is organic and will germinate
hope that helps
although barley is known for its high diastatic power - a.k.a. amount of enzymes. this is the reason barley is preferred by brewers...its all in the enzymes
i've used mung beans, hemp seeds, alfalfa, barley, fenugreek, etc....really anything that is organic and will germinate
hope that helps
LaCasaVerde
Member
Thank you headtreep for sharing your wealth of information. Hope to see an occasional update on the results of your latest ROLS mix. I'll keep following this this thread and hopefully make my own contributions in the near future.
Take Care.
