Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

Ya I'll be honest, in hydro their lines rocks big time. But in soil I don't see the stims doing much more then forcing the plant to dump resources and get burnt out towards the end. In fact when I run them in hydro again I'm going to have a control or two in which I don't use those two flowering stims to see what happens.

I didn't want to lose this thread.

youknowthekid! said:

Ya I'll be honest, in hydro their lines rocks big time. But in soil I don't see the stims doing much more then forcing the plant to dump resources and get burnt out towards the end. In fact when I run them in hydro again I'm going to have a control or two in which I don't use those two flowering stims to see what happens.

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That is science. The other is not.

I find that the DM Liquid Light doe work. It makes growth explode in veg compared to the same strain and no LL. If find their suggested 400 ppm for clones won't work with DM One formula.

I have experimented enough with that, to know.. Gravity - banned in CA, how stupid. It works very well to create dense bud mass.

Rooting Auxins like Ryzomtonic makes faster growing and thicker, more vigorous roots. I know that for myself.

But, I don't make suggestions.

But, I say don't be in a hurry. Try the experiments and report.

Uncle Ben said:

You're making this too complex. Use your organics like an organic potting soil, adding meals like blood and bone or whatever and supplement with chemicals. If indeed you do have microbes converting this and that, the addition of synthetics won't hurt anything.

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Thanks for the advice UB

I tend to make things a little complicated!

I would like to endorse the rootball scoring technique. I have noticed significantly faster growth when scoring and then potting up.

I have also been using the plant magic mycorrhizal granules recently, and believe they have increased my plant's resistance to sciarid gnats. I had some sneak into the chamber, and they only infested the one plant that I hadn't treated with the granules.

Are you kidding me? In-appropriate to call someone for race baiting?

Well, I am not suprised, I count all these mods, save White Bear and Rolli, quite capable of Nazi style arbitrary wielding of petty power if we disagree with their OH SO LIBERAL AND REASONABLE, agenda driven forum actions. I've been stomped on and then lied about.

So, it is funny that the Liberals act like they are for freedom.....just funny and sad is all. You can fool some of the people all of the time.

Yeah, Fuck Them.

Majestic Pagent said:

Thanks for the advice UB

I tend to make things a little complicated!

I would like to endorse the rootball scoring technique. I have noticed significantly faster growth when scoring and then potting up.

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Anytime you can prevent or remediate root spin-out...you win.

I have also been using the plant magic mycorrhizal granules recently, and believe they have increased my plant's resistance to sciarid gnats. I had some sneak into the chamber, and they only infested the one plant that I hadn't treated with the granules.

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"Plant Magic", of course. Gawd, if I had a nickel for every psychologically driven marketed tool these snake oil salesmen use....

Have a very well seasoned horticultural friend who said there is no benefit to using myco fungi in container garderning. He has personally observed this himself using a control group and then read it in a scientific journal. If it makes you feel good, go fer it. Only thing it could hurt is your pocketbook.

Uncle Ben said:

Anytime you can prevent or remediate root spin-out...you win.



"Plant Magic", of course. Gawd, if I had a nickel for every psychologically driven marketed tool these snake oil salesmen use....

Have a very well seasoned horticultural friend who said there is no benefit to using myco fungi in container garderning. He has personally observed this himself using a control group and then read it in a scientific journal. If it makes you feel good, go fer it. Only thing it could hurt is your pocketbook.

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Yeah, I would not use myco in containers. Containers are not especially susceptible to Pythium, root rot...I don't think. And there is something to feeling like you are doing some thing at first. I use myco and other Bens, in my reservoirs, but since I don't have roots in there, the roots are in inert media containers above, I may not even need that. Some of this stuff can count as mental health insurance....hurt the cash pile, is all.

I just finished my Tweek/Pointer idea test. I didn't change food for Bloom. Eureka!

I just used 16-16-16 Sea Grow, + Cal/Mag + Silica Blast.




I used the same thing from clone to harvest and only changed the strength of the feed in PPM. A Simplify pointer.

Although I didn't see any harvest pictures at the point in time you took those shots they look really good. I have tried for many years to persuade folks caught up in the bloom food madness that's it's leaves that produce, not bloom foods. Folks are stubborn, immersed in their comfort zone, the "everybody does it" madness and will sit there and watch their leaves turn yellow and drop off rather than take corrective action.

I gave up on the defoliation proponents.

You can't fix stupid.

Uncle Ben said:

Although I didn't see any harvest pictures at the point in time you took those shots they look really good. I have tried for many years to persuade folks caught up in the bloom food madness that's it's leaves that produce, not bloom foods. Folks are stubborn, immersed in their comfort zone, the "everybody does it" madness and will sit there and watch their leaves turn yellow and drop off rather than take corrective action.

I gave up on the defoliation proponents.

You can't fix stupid.

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Oh How I thank you for teaching me this. I know I have told you before, But you know, I'm Still kicking everyone's ass with your techniques. Now,i'm going round and round with the numbskulls who want to pull off all those healthy leaves that do all the work.

chuck estevez said:

Oh How I thank you for teaching me this. I know I have told you before, But you know, I'm Still kicking everyone's ass with your techniques. Now,i'm going round and round with the numbskulls who want to pull off all those healthy leaves that do all the work.

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Good on ya, and good luck! Just use the ol "ya can't fix stupid" in your sig line and everything will be alllllllllllllright.

Uncle Ben said:

Although I didn't see any harvest pictures at the point in time you took those shots they look really good. I have tried for many years to persuade folks caught up in the bloom food madness that's it's leaves that produce, not bloom foods. Folks are stubborn, immersed in their comfort zone, the "everybody does it" madness and will sit there and watch their leaves turn yellow and drop off rather than take corrective action.

I gave up on the defoliation proponents.

You can't fix stupid.

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Yeah I will harvest today. Been following tricomes with a microscope.

"There are none that are more stupid, than those that refuse to learn." Doer.

Uncle Ben said:

Good on ya, and good luck! Just use the ol "ya can't fix stupid" in your sig line and everything will be alllllllllllllright.

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check my NEW sig, thanks BEN.

Hah!......

Hey UB....I've recently purchased jacks classic all purpose and blossom booster and I was hoping you could answer a few questions for me about application rates.

I first used jacks all purpose at the recommended rate 1/2 tsp / gallon on a 5' tall mother plant and she loved the stuff. Just took it and perked up beautifully. Now I tried as little as 1/4 teaspoon on some 3 week old vegging clones and burned the ba-jeeezus out of them. I know I should use less but I was curious what your application rates were for young plants. I'm a believer in jack's products but I think I just have to fine tune the dosage and frequency of feeding to zero in on the sweet spot.

I previously used GH base line of nutes flora micro, flora grow, and bloom...I've had 4 successful previous grows with the GH line but I liked the idea of using a real horticultural grade product like jack's and you get so much more for your value using the jack's line as opposed to the GH Line....not that GH is terribly expensive but 2 tubs of jack's will last me a couple of years easy....

Looking forward to hearing your words of wisdom UB!

jonnynobody said:

I first used jacks all purpose at the recommended rate 1/2 tsp / gallon on a 5' tall mother plant and she loved the stuff. Just took it and perked up beautifully. Now I tried as little as 1/4 teaspoon on some 3 week old vegging clones and burned the ba-jeeezus out of them.

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You feed plants based on their needs. A 5' plant might love 2 tsp/gallon (in rainwater) while a clone that is not bulking up much, doesn't need the salts, will croak. Having said that 1/4 tsp/gallon is nothing when it comes to total ppm and TDS that the plant sees. Something's suspicious here.....

Uncle Ben said:

You feed plants based on their needs. A 5' plant might love 2 tsp/gallon (in rainwater) while a clone that is not bulking up much, doesn't need the salts, will croak. Having said that 1/4 tsp/gallon is nothing when it comes to total ppm and TDS that the plant sees. Something's suspicious here.....

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Right, it you don't measure ppm you have no idea what concentration is a 1/4 teaspoon in gal. And if that burned them, who knows what is in there?

lilroach said:

It's a balmy zero degrees with a wind-chill of "HOLY FUCK" here in upstate NY.

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Ice Fishing!! Nothing like Hot Boxing your shanty and catching fat Walleyes

Uncle Ben said:

You feed plants based on their needs. A 5' plant might love 2 tsp/gallon (in rainwater) while a clone that is not bulking up much, doesn't need the salts, will croak. Having said that 1/4 tsp/gallon is nothing when it comes to total ppm and TDS that the plant sees. Something's suspicious here.....

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Hey Ben,

I hear a lot of people saying that kelp adds bud size and a host of other beneficial things for our plants. My question is can there be too much kelp for a plant?

I live right next to the beach and can get tons of it for free. Just want to know how I should go about adding it to my mixture.

[h=2]Obtaining Sea Kelp[/h] Seaweed can be obtained locally if you reside near the ocean. Simply harvest it by hand by the bucketful and apply it to your garden. You can also purchase seaweed commercially as dried kelp meal or as a liquid kelp extract.

[h=2]Applying Sea Kelp[/h] You can apply fresh sea kelp directly to the soil in a 2- to 4-inch layer. Wash the salt from the kelp before applying, as some plants can be sensitive to salt water. As an alternative, simply add the kelp to your regular compost

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/sea-kelp-plants-24537.html

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