Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

volcanoOFhistory

Well-Known Member
Just read this whole thread. Some good 3-1-2 for my brain. Woulda been nice if people didn't ask the same questions that you answered over and over again. Probably woulda cut 100 pages off the thread count.
 
[h=2]Obtaining Sea Kelp[/h] Seaweed can be obtained locally if you reside near the ocean. Simply harvest it by hand by the bucketful and apply it to your garden. You can also purchase seaweed commercially as dried kelp meal or as a liquid kelp extract.

[h=2]Applying Sea Kelp[/h] You can apply fresh sea kelp directly to the soil in a 2- to 4-inch layer. Wash the salt from the kelp before applying, as some plants can be sensitive to salt water. As an alternative, simply add the kelp to your regular compost

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/sea-kelp-plants-24537.html
2 to 4 inches it is. Thanks, Doer :)
 

Doer

Well-Known Member
I just scratched my head when I saw that. Sometimes he trolls pretty good, but that was just childish.
Oh, please, it never rises above childish to come into a grow thread with your stupid taunting, hanging out. He isn't childish. He just enjoys acting that way. :)
 

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
You feed plants based on their needs. A 5' plant might love 2 tsp/gallon (in rainwater) while a clone that is not bulking up much, doesn't need the salts, will croak. Having said that 1/4 tsp/gallon is nothing when it comes to total ppm and TDS that the plant sees. Something's suspicious here.....
You were right about something being suspicious. The clones were infested with spider mites which I have recently handled...plants are bouncing back nicely and new growth looks luscious. Just dosed them with 1/2tsp jack's all purpose at 6.3 with 226 PPM TDS. I'll post some pics later at lights on.
 

Majestic Pagent

Active Member
Anytime you can prevent or remediate root spin-out...you win.



"Plant Magic", of course. Gawd, if I had a nickel for every psychologically driven marketed tool these snake oil salesmen use....

Have a very well seasoned horticultural friend who said there is no benefit to using myco fungi in container garderning. He has personally observed this himself using a control group and then read it in a scientific journal. If it makes you feel good, go fer it. Only thing it could hurt is your pocketbook.
Thanks UB

I take your advice seriously and will run a test of four with myco and four without. I may as well as I have half a pot of the powder left over

Have 8 lovely bushes that have not seen any feeding as yet - just the Jacks compost.

Hopefully they'll stay this green right the way throughIMG_20140330_185510.jpg
 

Majestic Pagent

Active Member
Thanks too Doer

I see what you're saying

After wasting god knows how much time and money with the cannabis specific lines, my current grow is running fine with just some nicely amended soil and a box of miracle gro 24-3-13 fert. In the past I followed the manufactures guidelines to the letter with a couple of cannabis brand nutes and my plants f**ked up every time. I was convinced the environmental factors were out, but even when I had them down to the letter the plants still lost their leaves.

Wish I could simplify my space too, but growing with a 4'6" ceiling makes it sooo tricky!

IMG_20140330_190108.jpgIMG_20140330_190303.jpg
 

Doer

Well-Known Member
Yeah, and not just for the plant space. The real key to heat control is head room.

I have trouble operating in an 8ft high bathroom.
 

Majestic Pagent

Active Member
Yeah, and not just for the plant space. The real key to heat control is head room.

I have trouble operating in an 8ft high bathroom.
Is that because of the issues with the hot air stratifying at the top of the room?
It took me a while before I cottoned on to that one and installed a good sized fan pointing at the floor to mix it up a bit. Before that, even with quite a bit of air movement on the horizontal plane, it was still reaching 40%c at the very top of the space.
 

Doer

Well-Known Member
General rude or these mod are jiust vapor talk.

This what is not acceptable. You are Dogging me whenever I post in this thread or another thread by Uncle Ben. You being such a hidden cloest racist, always in struggle with yourself, it burns you if you think you see it in others. So transparent.

May you ever be deleted.
 

Doer

Well-Known Member
Is that because of the issues with the hot air stratifying at the top of the room?
It took me a while before I cottoned on to that one and installed a good sized fan pointing at the floor to mix it up a bit. Before that, even with quite a bit of air movement on the horizontal plane, it was still reaching 40%c at the very top of the space.
A full 8 foot can be had in a closet by removing the shelves. Shorter grow areas need big air exchange. In my 5' x 32" square tent, I have a 177 cfm axial fan (not a booster) on that. You can do the math on exchanges per hour in there.

The main thing besides the mixing is top exhaust. All my exhaust is at 5 feet from floor min.
 

Majestic Pagent

Active Member
A full 8 foot can be had in a closet by removing the shelves. Shorter grow areas need big air exchange. In my 5' x 32" square tent, I have a 177 cfm axial fan (not a booster) on that. You can do the math on exchanges per hour in there.

The main thing besides the mixing is top exhaust. All my exhaust is at 5 feet from floor min.
I have a 720cfm in my 4.3 cubic meter room, so I'm a little bit less than you on the air movement. My temperature at canopy level doesn't get above 67F though. Do you think the leaf curl is a heat issue? I will take some more photos later to illustrate it better. I am considering adding a 177cfm booster - I have one that is not in use.

Unfortunately 4'6" is my max height. It is a custom built chamber in a loft you see. The extraction is up at the very top of the space.

What light are you running in your 5' space?

Cheers
 

Majestic Pagent

Active Member
Interesting article

I have defoliated a little below the level of my scrog in the past to promote air movement in what is a very cramped space, but have decided not to this time as a test, and it is currently very dense down there. Next time I may do four plants partially defoliated and four untouched to see what happens. I'm skeptical but curious enough to try a side by side experiment.

Would be interested to hear UBs take on the article.
 

Doer

Well-Known Member
I have a 720cfm in my 4.3 cubic meter room, so I'm a little bit less than you on the air movement. My temperature at canopy level doesn't get above 67F though. Do you think the leaf curl is a heat issue? I will take some more photos later to illustrate it better. I am considering adding a 177cfm booster - I have one that is not in use.

Unfortunately 4'6" is my max height. It is a custom built chamber in a loft you see. The extraction is up at the very top of the space.

What light are you running in your 5' space?

Cheers
The 5ft space can only take 250 CFL. Even another 150 CFL will over drive the tent.

67F ???? What are you worried about, again? :)

Leaf curl and 67F don't go together, I don't think.

You are good to 90 F at the canopy. I typically run max 86-90 @ 36% RH in the summer for bloom with 1000w water cooled HPS.

Leaf curl? Well the pics were many pages back. There are several thing that can cause it, and several expression of leaf curl, but it is quite specific. You just have to eliminate them one by one.

It is very true, the way all science works is the opposite of common wisdom.

In science, (and this might be surprising to some) we RULE IT OUT, RUTHLESSLY,

So, you would rule out, excess nitrogen and all other reasons for curl. I already ruled out heat, if you are only at 67F.

People believe common wisdom, but science doesn't even believe science. Actual science is the constant challenge of the Current Understanding, in all respects. It is heavy handed, non-emotional, and any result you hand in, must be repeatable by your own peers you are racing for Career. Only they can say you won one.

Only your peers can say you have ruled out all but your Hypothesis....for now.

“Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth.”
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle Sr.
 
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Doer

Well-Known Member
BTW, putting a booster in line on a short run will lower the cfm rate,

Booster are not for primary CFM, the are for inceasing the flow speed, only, not the volume.

You put them way down stream if needed, around turn or something that slows down the air,

It doesn't sound like to me you have a heat problem.
 

Majestic Pagent

Active Member
67F ???? What are you worried about, again? :)
Thanks for that, and for the reminder of the importance of a scientific approach. It's hard for me when I only have my judgement to rely on. Don't know anyone else who is into gardening.

I'm wondering if I might be a little over on the niter - It would make sense if I have a couple of phenos that are less tolerant to it. It could explain why most of the plants are unaffected. I will halt any feeding and observe the changes.

IMG_20140426_193356.jpgIMG_20140426_193436.jpg
 

Doer

Well-Known Member
Well, the Method is not easy. There are as many self deceptions as are in Debate, :)

But, this is plain Botany. And ganja is not an Orchid. It is a weed and will grow like crazy if we don't get in the way,

You can learn the basics from growing a tomato plant, It needs about the same amount of time and about the same conditions.

Do a google search on "thin and curly leaves."

I found a bunch of it but don't have time right now to figure it beyond..."stress."

Too much....something. :(
 
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