...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?

  • Total voters
    357
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
G

Geezy sleezy

New Member
Hey buds,
I'm having a difficult time deciding on a driver to power a single vero 29 3500k. Would a mean well LPC-35-1050 be good? What do you guys like using?
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
I do not pay so much attention to the thermal conductivity or any other characteristic,as to the "ease of application ".
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I have come to agree with this approach!

stardustsailor said:
Still ,my favourite TIM remains Arctic Silver 5 ....
The only paste I've tested and used ,that can be applied into a really thin -thinner than thinnest -
layer ... Only downside so far ,is that it needs about 200 hours ( approx 10 days ) of curing before COBs will be "put on duty " ...
Click to expand...
That sounds like a PITA LOL. Both PK1 and MX2 are very easy to get a thin layer and (they claim) no cure time required.

stardustsailor said:
" Contact resistance " is the key ...;)Or also known as
" AN : How to make a highly thermal conductive paste ,behave worse than the worst toothpaste,
by using Kapton tape "
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Have you tested this? In every test I have treid contact pressure makes absolutely no difference in Tj for our application.

guod said:
50% helps alot when you mount your cobs with Kapton-tape ;)
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I agree that COB holders look more professional, but then again I am glad my heatsinks dont look like this by now...
heatsink holes.jpg
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
" Bonjour
Are you sure it is not some kind of cheese,cause even if I hate cheese(unbelievable for a French!isn't it!?)I recognized it...It is just too old and turn grey...bon appetit!
Have a great day "

Ha ....


You think ,you frenchmen ,that you know better of stinky cheeses ?
WRONG !
A friend from Germany ,once help me (by giving me his advice ) to take a sweet "revenge " from someone else , with whom we had our "differences"....
:finger:
:cuss::wall:

All I had to do ,was to "disperse" some tiny bits of a "special " cheese ,in some well covered spots ,in his house .
In a matter of weeks ,he moved away from that house and I got rid of his presence ..
:fire::fire::fire::fire::fire:
Limburger should be classified as an advanced chemical weapon ,not as "cheese "..
It takes just a tad stronger feet-smell than Limburger has,to kill somebody ...

yeah ,I know ,probably you do not believe me ..
I did not believed my pal from Germany ,when he told me about it ....
But I saw the truth ...
And smelled it also ...

You just can't imagine ,brother ...
you just can't ...

Cheers.
:peace:
 
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stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Thrust me on this one...I believe you...no problem!
I HATE CHEESE,I DO NOT EAT THIS HORRIBLE THING...FRENCH ARE MAD PEOPLES!!!!!!
I saw some from Corsica(beautiful french island) they wrap the cheese in some leaves...no,no mj!,..and then they let it 10 month underground, then,they open it,and if you are still awake,you can see the worms mouving inside.Then eat it (if you are a real warior!!)!!! I didn't, I'm a pussy froggy...
Have a good meal
 
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
littlejacob said:
QUOTE="AquariusPanta, post: 11809429, member: 886695"]Sup people. I recently went a different route on a recent DIY build and was wondering how well it performed in a 3' x 3' space. Here are the results:

View attachment 3474197
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Bonjour
Are the cobs on a same pannel (h.s)
How they are.spaced?
With 4 pannel with one cob on each, each placed in the center of each quarter of the box, would not give better lights spread???!!
Have a great day ★[/QUOTE]

Hey LJ,

A lot of variables to play around with, which is what makes that specific DIY creation fun to play around with with a PAR sensor. For that test, each COB was spaced apart around 10 inches, with two on each rack.

testiclees said:
its so bright in there i dont think 12 hours makes sense. 550w ~10 sq ft.
im adding a 54 w uvb bulb next week. im gonna run it maybe 2-3 hrs per day. Im optimistic. the vero alone does great.
Click to expand...
It shouldn't disappoint but try to get a dome reflector as that will greatly help with the concentration of UVB. Also moving UVB around the plant will help the exposed locations react, recover, and prepare for later exposure. Is it a CFL bulb?

SupraSPL said:
Lately I have been experimenting with Arctic MX2. It is faster/easier to apply, less toxic, cheaper and for our appliction it seems to perform just as well as premium paste. The only things I have been able to do to get temp droop lower, run them softer or reduce heatsink temp/gradient by increasing fan speed or increasing heatsink mass and surface area.


Numbers look good. I finally caved in and got a PAR meter to experiment with (Apogee SQ-120 $100 used). I always complain that it is inaccurate for red/deep red but I liked the point that greengenes made, it will always read low and I can live with that. You mentioned they have adjustments for each color temp of Vero, do they do that for Cree CX also?
Click to expand...
It's nice having a paste to apply that doesn't fight you all the way through the application, plus the MX2 is super cheap at larger sizes in comparison to PK3 - double win.

As for the readings, you'd have need to submit the data from the data sheets that either Bridgelux or Cree provides for their products, specifically the intensity for each of the individual wavelengths throughout the 'color curve' for each of the temperatures. Here's what it came to, thanks to @alesh and Damon from Apogee for their support.

Vero18 3000K 80CRI : -6.5%

Vero18 4000K 80CRI : -5.2%

Vero18 5000K 70CRI : -3.6%

I imagine Cree COBS aren't far off from similar colored Vero COBs and that these numbers could be used interchangeably between brands but I could be completely wrong, as I haven't entered that realm of Cree's (yet).

SupraSPL said:
I think MX4 is the stock paste used on the Arctic Alpine 11, works great I cannot tell the difference between that and PK3. I went with MX2 to test the theory that thermal paste was not bottle necking our temp droop. It is supposed to be easier to apply than MX4 and a bit cheaper in bulk, 65g of MX2 for $32-$34. They both claim 8 year durability but MX4 claims 8.5 W/(mK) and MX-2 claims 5.6 W/(mK).

@AquariusPanta do you keep the MX4 on your Alpine 11s?
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I remove the pre-applied paste and squirt as much MX2 as needed. I used to try to conserve the MX4 but found it was less troublesome to start fresh without any paste, as drilling holes makes a mess.
 
testiclees

testiclees

Well-Known Member
It shouldn't disappoint but try to get a dome reflector as that will greatly help with the concentration of UVB. Also moving UVB around the plant will help the exposed locations react, recover, and prepare for later exposure. Is it a CFL bulb?


@AquariusPanta

Im using the arcadia bulb that was recommended by kite high on older threads. it seemed like he was well versed in the uvb application.

Heres a pic of the fixture. the tube is 46". Thats my optic 360 in the center!
 

Attachments

1.21 Gigawatts!

1.21 Gigawatts!

Well-Known Member
What's wrong with your site? It's been down on and off all night. Maybe you should check into getting a better server.

heavenbright.com or heavenbright.net

Is anyone having issues accessing it?
AquariusPanta said:
Hey LJ,

A lot of variables to play around with, which is what makes that specific DIY creation fun to play around with with a PAR sensor. For that test, each COB was spaced apart around 10 inches, with two on each rack.

It shouldn't disappoint but try to get a dome reflector as that will greatly help with the concentration of UVB. Also moving UVB around the plant will help the exposed locations react, recover, and prepare for later exposure. Is it a CFL bulb?

It's nice having a paste to apply that doesn't fight you all the way through the application, plus the MX2 is super cheap at larger sizes in comparison to PK3 - double win.

As for the readings, you'd have need to submit the data from the data sheets that either Bridgelux or Cree provides for their products, specifically the intensity for each of the individual wavelengths throughout the 'color curve' for each of the temperatures. Here's what it came to, thanks to
Click to expand...
 
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AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
The .com domain, you know the one you originally typed out but later altered to a .net domain, seems to work for me in my browser and appears legit.
 
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