Electrical Question

Klone00

Active Member
So I have a 50amp douple pole leg ran from my main breaker box to a panel for what used to be a hot tub. I opened the break and there is 4 spots total (2 taken up by the current 50 amp and 2 open)
My question(s):
Can I take that 50 amp leg from the main breaker and break it down in the hot tub subpanel to run all my grow equipment? This will run to a shed that I'm building on the concrete pad where the hot tub used to be. Also, can I use a combination of 240 and 120 (110/208/220??? whatever the hell it is)
My LED drivers will handle an input of 100-240 and I have 2. Plus pumps, etc for hydro and ventilation.
Is there a benefit to running the lights or anything on 240 vs 120?
Is 50 amps enough to run everything? (I know I'll need to find the total amperage)
 

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420drummer

Well-Known Member
Yes you can use the old panel that was for your hot tub. The reason for running 240 rather than 120 is you will use less amps and it can be more efficient. And 50 amps should more than enough to run everything you’ve mentioned.
 

Klone00

Active Member
Yes you can use the old panel that was for your hot tub. The reason for running 240 rather than 120 is you will use less amps and it can be more efficient. And 50 amps should more than enough to run everything you’ve mentioned.
So here is what I'm thinking, a 20amp double pole to run the lights. And 2 tandem 15amp in the last 2 slots to have 4 15amp circuits. That sound accurate?
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
So here is what I'm thinking, a 20amp double pole to run the lights. And 2 tandem 15amp in the last 2 slots to have 4 15amp circuits. That sound accurate?
The only benefit to running 220 vs 110 is wire size. When using 220 you can run 4k watts on a piece of 12/2 , when using 110 you could only put 2k on the same wire.
So what im saying is that 20 amp double pole ran at 220 should give you a max load of about 4000 watts or 18 amps. then you still have 4 -15amp circuits left. (your already using 20 out of 50 amps , so no matter how many circuits you have , you still only have 30 amps left to play with. (that should be PLENTY for everything)
 

Klone00

Active Member
The only benefit to running 220 vs 110 is wire size. When using 220 you can run 4k watts on a piece of 12/2 , when using 110 you could only put 2k on the same wire.
So what im saying is that 20 amp double pole ran at 220 should give you a max load of about 4000 watts or 18 amps. then you still have 4 -15amp circuits left. (your already using 20 out of 50 amps , so no matter how many circuits you have , you still only have 30 amps left to play with. (that should be PLENTY for everything)
Sounds like it would be easier to keep the lights on 110 since I'm still less than half the 2k watts? Without losing any benefit
Hoping to have room from an A/C window unit without running another leg too
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
Sounds like it would be easier to keep the lights on 110 since I'm still less than half the 2k watts? Without losing any benefit
Hoping to have room from an A/C window unit without running another leg too
Yes , it probably would be just as easy to run 110. im with you on that. Slap the ac on one of your 4 -15's and thats done.
 

hungl0

New Member
it is so simple. to use the 240 volt. it will be more efficient on your driver as well, possibly extending the life of your driver..
 

Klone00

Active Member
it is so simple. to use the 240 volt. it will be more efficient on your driver as well, possibly extending the life of your driver..
I talked to 2 industrial grow electricians today and they seemed to think only run the heat/cool on 240. And they were looking at my drivers and everything. They are constant current drivers at 1.4A so changing the voltage would double the wattage?
That math may not be right but A=W/V so
1.4=w/240. W=336 1.4=w/120 w=168
 

hungl0

New Member
I talked to 2 industrial grow electricians today and they seemed to think only run the heat/cool on 240. And they were looking at my drivers and everything. They are constant current drivers at 1.4A so changing the voltage would double the wattage?
That math may not be right but A=W/V so
1.4=w/240. W=336 1.4=w/120 w=168
ah then the amperage would be very close to the same. but might as well run it 240. You using a lighting contactor or anything?
 

Klone00

Active Member
ah then the amperage would be very close to the same. but might as well run it 240. You using a lighting contactor or anything?
This is the first of heard of using one....??
Running it 240 takes up one of my potential circuits. And may need that for the AC
 

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
I talked to 2 industrial grow electricians today and they seemed to think only run the heat/cool on 240. And they were looking at my drivers and everything. They are constant current drivers at 1.4A so changing the voltage would double the wattage?
That math may not be right but A=W/V so
1.4=w/240. W=336 1.4=w/120 w=168
The output drive current is constant but the input current is dependent on the AC line voltage. Double the AC voltage, then half the input current for the same power. The drivers transformer/rectifier circuitry is more efficient with higher AC line voltage.
I run my room with 240. I have about 900 watts, so I'd rather have my house wiring seeing 4 amps rather than 8.
 

SwiSHa85

Well-Known Member
I just upgraded all the electrical to my building. I got a spool of 2-2-2-4 direct burial cable for dirt cheap. Used about 250 ft of it with plenty left over. 240v at the box with double 40s and single pole 20s. Ran a direct feed line to my light controllers @ 240 and use half the amps. Everything else is on 120v, ac fans dehumidifier. Now under heavy load on a hot day I no longer get flickering LEDs when there maxed, where as before I was limited on amps and had to turn them down a smidge or else I was pulling to many amps. Now with the upgraded electrical I plan on ditching my current China brand mini splits and going with a central ac style air handler. 3-5 ton to cool 2 flower rooms.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
it is so simple. to use the 240 volt. it will be more efficient on your driver as well, possibly extending the life of your driver..
TBH most meanwell drivers I have seen will run a touch more efficient at 120 than they do at 240.
 

Klone00

Active Member
TBH most meanwell drivers I have seen will run a touch more efficient at 120 than they do at 240.
If they are on a dedicated 15amp circuit only drawing a combined 7a then I don't see any issues. If I have flickering issues ^^ switch to 240 later. My 50amp subpanel is 18" from my grow room so it's easy
 

SwiSHa85

Well-Known Member
If they are on a dedicated 15amp circuit only drawing a combined 7a then I don't see any issues. If I have flickering issues ^^ switch to 240 later. My 50amp subpanel is 18" from my grow room so it's easy
Flickering only occurs when your right on the edge of max amperage. I have over 2k watts of QBs. 1k in each room.
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
If they are on a dedicated 15amp circuit only drawing a combined 7a then I don't see any issues. If I have flickering issues ^^ switch to 240 later. My 50amp subpanel is 18" from my grow room so it's easy
You are correct. 7 amps is only 7 amps. you dont NEED a dedicated 15 amp but thats good you have one. (less flickering)
I have not done the research but im with renfro.....to say 240 is more efficient on the driver is just made up. The driver is designed to take 110-220 volts. nowhere do they claim its more efficient at 220.
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
Flickering is a whole other ballgame and dont always come from the circuit in question. Everything i own is dedicated to the panel but my washing machine flickers the whole house. Its a weak ground im guessing, or it could be just a junk machine, time to upgrade. My point is a lot of things can make your lights flicker.
 

sweetleaf chongo

Well-Known Member
If they are on a dedicated 15amp circuit only drawing a combined 7a then I don't see any issues. If I have flickering issues ^^ switch to 240 later. My 50amp subpanel is 18" from my grow room so it's easy
save the 220v for the A/C if needed...you have more than enough power with a 50a sub panel , its 50a each bus bar , if anything double check the existing wiring see if its 14g on the 15amp breakers if its 12g switch out the breakers to 20amp if not upgrade to 12g wire then put them on 20amp breakers be more than enough never flicker ,
 
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