To muchs nutrients?
- Thread starter KILLA 4 NIA
- Start date
KILLA 4 NIA
Active Member
yea im waiting on 11 clones to fully root they have about 3 more days
Awesome. Are they in the soil with the cow poo? Or do you have them in something else?
KILLA 4 NIA
Active Member
i have them in peat moss pellets under a t12 in a humidity dome. should i just pull the other clones out of the cow shit i only hand them in there for 1 day so the roots cant be to big yet
Wait so I'm confused. I thought you were trying to start (root) the clones in the cow poo... Okay... Now I understand.... You are at least in a little better shape now. Do NOT pull those clones!!! They may survive!!!!
KILLA 4 NIA
Active Member
those clones are already rooted they are in 5 gallon buckets
KILLA 4 NIA
Active Member
the strains are G.D.P and Green Crack. ey the clones were fully rooted
Green crack is some good shit.
I forgot about the coffee grounds. I honestly don't know how that will work out. It would be cool a shit if the coffee made the girls grow like crazy all amped up haha.
It would be nice to have one of those crack clones.
iriefarmer
Active Member
Okay so let me say something that might be helpful and if it's not I guess you can just tell me to fuck off but here:
A good potting mixture should meet the needs of your plants roots for air, water, nutrients, and support:
-Top Soil
-Sand: in a growing mix can make a difference. Course sand--builders sand--is best it adds air space to the mix. Avoid plaster sands and other fine sands they tend to settle between ingredients and make a mixture too dense.
-Compost: premium compost mix should have:
Ph of 6.5-8.0
no (or very little) sulfides
<0.05 parts per million ammonia
<1ppm nitrites
<1% CO2
moisture content of 30-35%
-Sphagnum peat moss: is the most commonly used soilless medium because of availability and cost. Peat moss is very stable, very absorbent, and has a slow decomposition rate. Peat is highly acidic (Ph 3.5-4.0) limestone is usually added to reduce Ph.
-Pearlite: is a volcanic rock that is heated and expanded to become a light weight white material. It is sterile and Ph neutral. When added to a mix it will increease air space and improve drainage. (USE INSTEAD OF SAND)[/B]
Organic fertilizers added to soil for nutrients:
Material/NPK/Nutrient Release Rate
Alfalfa meal/2.5-0.5-2.0/slow
Blood Meal/12.5-1.5-0.6/med-fast
Bone Meal/4.0-21.0-0.2/slow (may cause acidity)
Cottonseed Meal/7.0-2.5-1.5/slow-med
Crab Meal/10.0-0.3-0.1/slow
Fish Meal/10.0-5.0-0.0/med
Bat Guano/5.5-8.6-1.5/med
Seabird Guano/12.3-11-2.5/med
Kelp Meal/1.0-0.5-8.0/slow
Soybean Meal/6.5-1.5-2.4/slow-med
Worm Castings/1.5-2.5-1.3/medium
The 3 numbers you see on the label of fertilizers/nutes/etc is an NPK ratio: an N-P-K ratio stands for percentage of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium in a fertilizer. Nitrogen is important for leaf growth and development, while phosphorous is important for root & flower development, and potassium is necessary for overall health as well as fruit and seed development. )
Optimum NPK ratios :
Vegetative Growth 20-10-10
Flowering 10-60-30
& READ here about how to compost coffee grounds: http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/composting-basics/coffee-grounds-gardening.htm
A good potting mixture should meet the needs of your plants roots for air, water, nutrients, and support:
-Top Soil
-Sand: in a growing mix can make a difference. Course sand--builders sand--is best it adds air space to the mix. Avoid plaster sands and other fine sands they tend to settle between ingredients and make a mixture too dense.
-Compost: premium compost mix should have:
Ph of 6.5-8.0
no (or very little) sulfides
<0.05 parts per million ammonia
<1ppm nitrites
<1% CO2
moisture content of 30-35%
-Sphagnum peat moss: is the most commonly used soilless medium because of availability and cost. Peat moss is very stable, very absorbent, and has a slow decomposition rate. Peat is highly acidic (Ph 3.5-4.0) limestone is usually added to reduce Ph.
-Pearlite: is a volcanic rock that is heated and expanded to become a light weight white material. It is sterile and Ph neutral. When added to a mix it will increease air space and improve drainage. (USE INSTEAD OF SAND)[/B]
Organic fertilizers added to soil for nutrients:
Material/NPK/Nutrient Release Rate
Alfalfa meal/2.5-0.5-2.0/slow
Blood Meal/12.5-1.5-0.6/med-fast
Bone Meal/4.0-21.0-0.2/slow (may cause acidity)
Cottonseed Meal/7.0-2.5-1.5/slow-med
Crab Meal/10.0-0.3-0.1/slow
Fish Meal/10.0-5.0-0.0/med
Bat Guano/5.5-8.6-1.5/med
Seabird Guano/12.3-11-2.5/med
Kelp Meal/1.0-0.5-8.0/slow
Soybean Meal/6.5-1.5-2.4/slow-med
Worm Castings/1.5-2.5-1.3/medium
The 3 numbers you see on the label of fertilizers/nutes/etc is an NPK ratio: an N-P-K ratio stands for percentage of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium in a fertilizer. Nitrogen is important for leaf growth and development, while phosphorous is important for root & flower development, and potassium is necessary for overall health as well as fruit and seed development. )
Optimum NPK ratios :
Vegetative Growth 20-10-10
Flowering 10-60-30
& READ here about how to compost coffee grounds: http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/composting-basics/coffee-grounds-gardening.htm
KILLA 4 NIA
Active Member
Thats not helpin me its to late for all that there already planted!
iriefarmer
Active Member
How is helping you plan ahead NOT helping? You said "should I just throw them away and start over"? If you're planning on planting in soil ever, I'd recommend reading so you know what to do instead of posting a thread of this nature in a couple weeks.
org@nicinsanity
Member
totally agree irie,..if he never fixes it then it will always be broke right?
iriefarmer
Active Member
[FONT=verdana,arial,helvetica][FONT=verdana,arial,helvetica]A learned blockhead is a greater blockhead than an ignorant one.
-Ben Franklin[/FONT]
http://www.quoteland.com/quote/Benjamin-Franklin-Quotes/34223/
[/FONT]
DrFever
New Member
there are millions of gardeners who look at look at manure as money in the bank. Many zoos, for example, are marketing giraffe even hippopotamus droppings. Can you guess what the best zoo doo is? (You'll find the answer at the end of this article).
In the days when most families kept a milk cow and a flock of chickens, manure was a primary garden fertilizer. But with changes in food production practices and the advent of synthetic fertilizer in the 1930's, many gardeners stopped using manure. Today, organic gardeners have rediscovered the benefits of manure as a fertilizer, soil conditioner and compost ingredient.
The hopeful lad probably lived on a farm, the best place for home gardeners to get manure. Or any place where domestic animals are raised, for that matter. Just listen for moos and clucking! Farm manure is often sold as bagged manure and is available at garden centers and hardware stores.
Manures and composted plant materials add organic matter, which helps soil retain moisture and structure which prevents compaction, and helps prevent nutrients from leaching away. They also balance extremes in soil pH.
The most common sources of manure are horses, cattle, goats, sheep, rabbits and poultry. Below is a guide showing how manures measure up, nutrient-wise. While all animal manures are good sources of organic matter and nutrients, it's impossible to make a precise analysis, mostly because bedding materials vary so much. For example, manure with straw or sawdust will have a different nitrogen composition than pure manure. But it's useful to know whether the manure you're using is rich or poor in a particular nutrient such as nitrogen.
As you review the list, don't be misled by the N-P-K numbers that suggest manure is less powerful than chemicals. It is actually far better because it contains large amounts of organic matter, so it feeds and builds the soil while it nourishes the plants. This is one of the primary ways that organic fertilizers have a leg-up on chemical ones.
Still, many gardeners can't resist comparing the numerical amounts listed below with what they read on packages of synthetic fertilizers. Unfortunately, the values of manure and organic fertilizers in general, are often based on the relative amount of nitrogen (N), phosphoric acid (P) and potash (K) they contain. While these are important elements, "it is misleading to make a direct comparison between farm manures and chemical fertilizers on the basis of the relative amounts of N-P-K," says Jerry Minnich, author of Rodale's Guide to Composting.
Just like we need to eat to maintain our health, soil needs continual replenishment of its organic matter to decompose into humus. Humus helps create a rich, moisture-retaining soil and makes nutrients available to plants.( For more organic gardening tips, read the current issue of my UpBeet Gardener newsletter.)
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Rabbit manure[/FONT]
Rabbit manure is even higher in nitrogen than some poultry manures and it also contains a large amount of phosphorus--important for flower and fruit formation.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Sheep manure[/FONT]
Sheep manure is another "hot" manure. It is somewhat dry and very rich. Manure from sheep fed hay and grain will be more potent than manure from animals that live on pasture.
A better treatment is to hot-compost manure before applying it to the garden. Hot composting, where the pile reaches at least 150 degrees F) helps to reduce the probability of passing dangerous pathogens on to people who handle the manure or eat food grown with manure compost. (For more information about compost, read my Compost Happens! article.)
While the chance of contamination is slim, severe sickness and even death may occur if contaminated produce is eaten. To be safe, either compost your manure or apply it in the fall after harvest. Wash up after handling manure and don't forget to rinse the vegetables and fruit well before you eat them--always a good idea whether your use manure or not.
The best zoo doo? Elephant dung!
So there you have it: The scoop on poop!
In the days when most families kept a milk cow and a flock of chickens, manure was a primary garden fertilizer. But with changes in food production practices and the advent of synthetic fertilizer in the 1930's, many gardeners stopped using manure. Today, organic gardeners have rediscovered the benefits of manure as a fertilizer, soil conditioner and compost ingredient.
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Where to find manure[/FONT]
Remember the story of the little boy who was digging through the pile of manure? "There has to be a pony in here somewhere," he told his father.
The hopeful lad probably lived on a farm, the best place for home gardeners to get manure. Or any place where domestic animals are raised, for that matter. Just listen for moos and clucking! Farm manure is often sold as bagged manure and is available at garden centers and hardware stores.
Manures and composted plant materials add organic matter, which helps soil retain moisture and structure which prevents compaction, and helps prevent nutrients from leaching away. They also balance extremes in soil pH.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]"The fairest thing in nature, a flower,
still has its roots in earth and manure."
—D.H. Lawrence, English novelist, poet (1885-1930) [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Good poop, bad poop[/FONT]
What is good for the goose, is not always good for the gander. There are a few manures that should not be used, primarily those of meat eaters. According to Cornell University, "Homeowners should not use any manure from dogs, cats, or other meat-eating animals, since there is risk of parasites or disease organisms that can be transmitted to humans."still has its roots in earth and manure."
—D.H. Lawrence, English novelist, poet (1885-1930) [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Good poop, bad poop[/FONT]
The most common sources of manure are horses, cattle, goats, sheep, rabbits and poultry. Below is a guide showing how manures measure up, nutrient-wise. While all animal manures are good sources of organic matter and nutrients, it's impossible to make a precise analysis, mostly because bedding materials vary so much. For example, manure with straw or sawdust will have a different nitrogen composition than pure manure. But it's useful to know whether the manure you're using is rich or poor in a particular nutrient such as nitrogen.
Still, many gardeners can't resist comparing the numerical amounts listed below with what they read on packages of synthetic fertilizers. Unfortunately, the values of manure and organic fertilizers in general, are often based on the relative amount of nitrogen (N), phosphoric acid (P) and potash (K) they contain. While these are important elements, "it is misleading to make a direct comparison between farm manures and chemical fertilizers on the basis of the relative amounts of N-P-K," says Jerry Minnich, author of Rodale's Guide to Composting.
Just like we need to eat to maintain our health, soil needs continual replenishment of its organic matter to decompose into humus. Humus helps create a rich, moisture-retaining soil and makes nutrients available to plants.( For more organic gardening tips, read the current issue of my UpBeet Gardener newsletter.)
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]How common manures measure up[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Manure[/FONT]ChickenDiary cowHorseSteerRabbitSheep[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]N-P-K[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1.1 .80 .50[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif].25 .15 .25[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif].70 .30 .60[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif].70 .30 .40[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]2.4 1.4 .60[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif].70.30 .90[/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Sources: Rodale's All-New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening, An Illustrated Guide to
Organic Gardening, by Sunset Publishing, and the Rodale Guide to Composting.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Note: Nutrient values of manures vary greatly, depending on the diet and
age of the animals, and the nature and quantiy of bedding in the mix.[/FONT]
Organic Gardening, by Sunset Publishing, and the Rodale Guide to Composting.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Note: Nutrient values of manures vary greatly, depending on the diet and
age of the animals, and the nature and quantiy of bedding in the mix.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Chicken manure[/FONT]
Poultry manure (chicken in particular) is the richest animal manure in N-P-K. Chicken manure is considered "hot" and must be composted before adding it to the garden. Otherwise, it will burn any plants it comes in contact with.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Dairy (cow) manure[/FONT]
"Dairy Manure may be the single most useful soil-builder around," says Ann Lovejoy, lifetime organic gardener and writer in Seattle, Washington. "Washed dairy manure from healthy cows is just about perfect for garden use; it can be used as a topdressing and for soil improvement," she adds. Dairy manure is preferable to steer manure, which has a higher salt and weed seed content. Though cow manure has low nutrient numbers, that's what makes ist safe to use in unlimited quantities.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Horse manure[/FONT]
Horse manure is about half as rich as chicken manure, but richer in nitrogen than cow manure. And, like chicken droppings, it's considered "hot". Horse manure often contains a lot of weed seeds, which means it's a good idea to compost it using a hot composting method.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Steer manure[/FONT]
Steer manure is one of the old standbys, but it's not the most beloved because it often contains unwanted salts and weed seeds.
Poultry manure (chicken in particular) is the richest animal manure in N-P-K. Chicken manure is considered "hot" and must be composted before adding it to the garden. Otherwise, it will burn any plants it comes in contact with.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Dairy (cow) manure[/FONT]
"Dairy Manure may be the single most useful soil-builder around," says Ann Lovejoy, lifetime organic gardener and writer in Seattle, Washington. "Washed dairy manure from healthy cows is just about perfect for garden use; it can be used as a topdressing and for soil improvement," she adds. Dairy manure is preferable to steer manure, which has a higher salt and weed seed content. Though cow manure has low nutrient numbers, that's what makes ist safe to use in unlimited quantities.[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Horse manure[/FONT]
Horse manure is about half as rich as chicken manure, but richer in nitrogen than cow manure. And, like chicken droppings, it's considered "hot". Horse manure often contains a lot of weed seeds, which means it's a good idea to compost it using a hot composting method.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Steer manure[/FONT]
Steer manure is one of the old standbys, but it's not the most beloved because it often contains unwanted salts and weed seeds.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Rabbit manure[/FONT]
Rabbit manure is even higher in nitrogen than some poultry manures and it also contains a large amount of phosphorus--important for flower and fruit formation.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Sheep manure[/FONT]
Sheep manure is another "hot" manure. It is somewhat dry and very rich. Manure from sheep fed hay and grain will be more potent than manure from animals that live on pasture.
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]How to use manure[/FONT]
No matter what kind of manure you use, use it as a soil amendment, not a mulch. In other words, don't put raw manure directly on garden soils. Raw manure generally releases nitrogen compounds and ammonia which can burn plant roots, young plants and interfere with seed germination. In fact, it's recommended that all animal manure should be aged for at least 6 months. Many gardeners spread fresh manure in the fall and turn it in to the top 6 inches of soil a month before spring planting.A better treatment is to hot-compost manure before applying it to the garden. Hot composting, where the pile reaches at least 150 degrees F) helps to reduce the probability of passing dangerous pathogens on to people who handle the manure or eat food grown with manure compost. (For more information about compost, read my Compost Happens! article.)
While the chance of contamination is slim, severe sickness and even death may occur if contaminated produce is eaten. To be safe, either compost your manure or apply it in the fall after harvest. Wash up after handling manure and don't forget to rinse the vegetables and fruit well before you eat them--always a good idea whether your use manure or not.
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]The bottom line[/FONT]
Anywhere from 75 to 90 percent of the plant nutrients fed to animals are excreted in their manure, so it should be no surprise that the stuff is an excellent fertilizer. E.B. White, author of Charlotte's Web, agrees. "There is no doubt about it, the basic satisfaction in farming is manure."The best zoo doo? Elephant dung!
So there you have it: The scoop on poop!