kindlyginger
Active Member
Ok, I found it at bghydro.com for $275 plus shipping.
Ok, I found it at bghydro.com for $275 plus shipping.
K phillip im taking the h&m heat exchange back, cant get past the pump dead heading!
So what one do you think i should get?
Hi, I'm trying to change things around a little to make them more convenient for me in my rooms. I normally keep my cuttings outside of my veg room in a small humidity dome on a table with a heating pad under it. (typical probably) I want to move them into my veg room. It's a 54"x54" room with 1000w MH. And maybe have a small 12"x48" shelf going across on one side up close to the reflector with a 4 ft T5 above it. I found a 48"x10" white flood tray which would be a great size for me, but the plastic humidity dome is about $100 bucks or something and seems pointless.
So my question is since the humidity can be over 50% in my veg room anyways, could I just not use the lid and keep the humidity over 50%? And does this sound like a good plan at all? Thanks in advance.
I can see it taking longer with a low humidity but if you're cloning in rockwool or using a flood table to clone, I see no problem.
My veg room is about 45% and I don't use domes. My clones root ~12 days.
-Hey phil, I have existing duct work going to my room (heat and CA). Would you move it to the bloom or veg room?
Hey Sencha, I wouldn't move it to either room. Keep it in the common area. You don't want to be blowing heat into one of your rooms while the a/c is working in there or vice versa. Since the thermostat for that ducting is in your house then it's not efficient to put the ducting in your room.
Two more walls done. Bloom room might get bigger and swallow the HVAC duct after all. This is taking a little longer then planned, due to smoking BUKU. I also decieded to go modular with my walls. With my studs 24" apart, I was able to build 6' sections. I built the wall on the floor and attached one side of the drywall before setting it in place. This really is a two man job, as is checking the squarness of each section while someone else drills holes. I've spent a little extra on materials to do it this way, but it's been a killer lesson in modular wall building. I'm using 2 x 3" studs and 1/2 dry wall. The next time I do this I'll use thicker drywall. Although, my noise level has already been cut in half.
A couple nice "C" clamps would have saved me a brief headache and I'm still using panda to cover a spot. I'll remedy those issues tomorrow.
A whole, modular, grow could be framed by one person if he built 4' walls instead of my 6 footers. Being secured to the concrete floor, making sure your walls are square, and having C clamps, are key for this project.
Cheers
Sounds like is coming along nicely man. It would be a 1 man job if you had my toolshed & workshop!![]()
I have the same hoods with 1000w bulbs. I heep mine 6' apart. A 1000w light has a footprint of 5x5 when 18" from your plant canopy. That means 2'6" in all directions from the bulb. You can add a little more when you have 2 lights side by side because the extra foot in the middle is receiving tlight from 2 bulbs which add up to sufficient footcandles.
hey phillip how do you measure 2'6"? do you measure it from the long end of the hood and wide end of the hood? i just got the magnum 8in xxxl and im trying to figure out how far to keep the hoods from each other and the wall. im doing 2 1000w for right now.
I just ordered one of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-LUMATEK...882?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ebd1d8852