Grow Room Floorplans. Here to help.

I use the plywood and roll it with kills then gloss white! All corners are sealed with calking. Then white poly, if humidity
Is kept well this should last many years

Nice HR30!

Nixing the insulation frees enough money for plywood. I'll do, drywall on the outside and plywood on the inside as suggested. Lowe's dosn't carry CDX, it says coming soon. I want fire resistant.

Lights come on in 20min. I dread moving all this stuff again.

Is there any reason you might want a seperate thread for this build? It's going to have alot of details. Especially if I decide not to seal it. I'll be putting alot of extra work into environment.

Cheapest fire resistance is from 5/8" Type X drywall. It's found everywhere. You might switch the drywall and plywood, or install a thin layer of OSB, like 7/16", for a nail base, then add a sheet of fire rated 5/8" drywall. This gives you the mass you want, the nail base you want, and the fire resistance also.

Drywall is like $8 a sheet, and OSB is I don't know. Used to be less than drywall. Fire-treated plywood is pricey

Rrog said:

Cheapest fire resistance is from 5/8" Type X drywall. It's found everywhere. You might switch the drywall and plywood, or install a thin layer of OSB, like 7/16", for a nail base, then add a sheet of fire rated 5/8" drywall. This gives you the mass you want, the nail base you want, and the fire resistance also.

Drywall is like $8 a sheet, and OSB is I don't know. Used to be less than drywall. Fire-treated plywood is pricey

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Sounds good. I'll be doing that on the ceiling for sure. I have a bit of work to do before I get to that.

Sencha said:

Nixing the insulation frees enough money for plywood. I'll do, drywall on the outside and plywood on the inside as suggested. Lowe's dosn't carry CDX, it says coming soon. I want fire resistant.

Lights come on in 20min. I dread moving all this stuff again.

Is there any reason you might want a seperate thread for this build? It's going to have alot of details. Especially if I decide not to seal it. I'll be putting alot of extra work into environment.

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Keep on posting here man. This is exactly why I created the thread. To get a collective of design and construction knowledge and ideas in one place. Lot's of guys here have better ideas than me.

One sec to re post

Hey Crack, anyway you can repost that floorplan? I can't see anything cause it's too small.

I will try to re format it

hope this turns out better

Hey crack. Much better couple quick questions. First off the plant looks great. Nicejob. I'm just wondering since I have never used cooltubes before; why are you pushin the air through them? Also, what are the dimensions of the space? Are you gonna put a carbon filter in the flower room?

The dimensions can be whatever it needs to be to allow for a setup like this, i will leave size up to you to figure out.
There will be x2 6in stealth air scrubbers in the main flower room and a 4in stealth air in the veg/cloning room.
The cool tubes are just a vented shield moving air to remove heat, the room i want to be sealed the venting on the
Lights are on a closed loop.

greencrack99 said:

The dimensions can be whatever it needs to be to allow for a setup like this, i will leave size up to you to figure out.
There will be x2 6in stealth air scrubbers in the main flower room and a 4in stealth air in the veg/cloning room.
The cool tubes are just a vented shield moving air to remove heat, the room i want to be sealed the venting on the
Lights are on a closed loop.

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Gotcha. Still confused about the lights though. If they are on a closed loop then where are you drawing air from and where are you exhausting it? Are you drawing from the veg room and exhausting outside?

Damn you guys doing big things up in here

It going to pull from the attic on the south side and exit the north side to the attic. South an north side walls will be
8 in wall allowing for 6in ducting to be plumbed in.

Ok crack, this is what I have for you. I have a couple suggestions though. First off, I'm not sure if 4 lights is going to cover 10 plants in a row. Assuming you are growing average sized plants I would say you are looking at least 2sq.ft. per plant. That mean you need to cover a length of 20ft. and a width of 4ft. The 4ft. is no problem but 20ft with 4 600w lights might be pushing it. If you are buying new ballasts for this op then I would recommend those Lumatek dual ballasts. You carbon filter I have hanging from the ceiling. I would also put your chiller and it's reservoir in the grow room. They work more efficient that way as it tends to have the most controlled climate. It will also save you from long tubing runs where you lose temperature and efficiency. I would place them under the air handler. You could also place the air handler on the wall above the door which would allow you to keep the chiller and reservoir in your veg room.

Looks good phillip, so you think adding another 600 to each side would be better? Or switch to 1000s?
Also where in the room do you think the co2 gen should'be located?
And do you think the cooling system is enough?
This layout will be a basement completly underground no windows.

greencrack99 said:

Looks good phillip, so you think adding another 600 to each side would be better? Or switch to 1000s?
Also where in the room do you think the co2 gen should'be located?
And do you think the cooling system is enough?
This layout will be a basement completly underground no windows.

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I would go with 600's man. Add one to each side. If you do 1000's then you'll be using 4,000w per side as opposed to 3,000w (5x600w) if you just added a 600w. Plus you won't need the width that a 1000w will have so it's a lot less efficient. Not to mention the additional electric and cooling issues.

I'd hang the Co2 generator in the middle of the room. Try and get the best disbursement possible. I've seen that larger rooms tend to have and airflow pattern that develops and sometimes you can get dead zones. Once you get it setup try moving your sensor around the room and see if you have any defficient areas on the plants. If so then raise the level on your controller or try and position the sensor in the defficient area.

It's hard to say if the cooling system will be enough. Every room is different and depends on where you live, the insulation in the room, the airflow, etc.. I think running the Cooltubes like that is gonna help alot. Plus yoy'll have really good airflow with the dehumidifier and wall fans. I think if you run into issues is going to be your chiller not being able to handle the load when lights are on.

hey phillip, i have a friend who is going to help me set up my breaker box and timers and outlets. He told me he will be setting up 220v outlets and 110v outlets. what i don't get is shouldnt it be 240v and 120v? he showed me the outlets where i would be plugging the ballasts into for the 220v and the outlet is for a 120v plug not a 240 plug... i should find someone else huh? i been to his place and it looks great but the whole 220 and 110 and outlets got me confused about him helping me.

your gear will run 220v and 110v but the wiring and breakers will be 240v and 120v