phillipchristian
New Member
Working on it now Kamie. I'll have something for you later or tomorrow.
Grow Room Floorplans. Here to help.
- Thread starter phillipchristian
- Start date
Sencha
Active Member
I honestly don't know how long I'll grow here and the carpet is in pretty good shape. If I don't have to seccure it to the floor I won't.
I understand the risks with mold, pollen, dust etc. I'll have enough panda film left over to cover the floor 3 times.
I own and live in this house, at least the bank owns it. However, I'm considering a move in the future and this house would become a rental. I need the option to disassemble because it's prime living space.
As far as grow style? I'm only a 3 year grower so I'm just now getting through all the styles. I've tried almost everything. I have not grown SOG or vertical yet. I will probably always grow some form of DWC or Aero in half the room and Coco or soil in the other half.
Current equipment list to follow....
I understand the risks with mold, pollen, dust etc. I'll have enough panda film left over to cover the floor 3 times.
I own and live in this house, at least the bank owns it. However, I'm considering a move in the future and this house would become a rental. I need the option to disassemble because it's prime living space.
As far as grow style? I'm only a 3 year grower so I'm just now getting through all the styles. I've tried almost everything. I have not grown SOG or vertical yet. I will probably always grow some form of DWC or Aero in half the room and Coco or soil in the other half.
Current equipment list to follow....
phillipchristian
New Member
I would try and secure it to the floor. I understand that you don't want to devalue your home by ripping up carpet in a corner of your room. If you can, then at least build a floating floor. If you lay down panda film over that carpet for a few years it's gonna be discolored anyway. If it's in your budget you frame out a floor with 2x2's. Lay it down and fasten it to your exterior walls. Then you could just lay plywood across the top of it and panda or linoleum on top of that. Would help keep your room cool too because you would have airflow underneath.
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
Carpet is easy to pull up and roll it up and store it! Then when your done just lay it back down kick stretch it and tac it.
Cheaper to store than distroy!
Cheaper to store than distroy!
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
Carpet is easy to pull up and roll it up and store it! Then when your done just lay it back down kick stretch it and tac it.
Cheaper to store than distroy!
Cheaper to store than distroy!
Sencha
Active Member
I like the raised idea. I'll have to consider it. 4- 4.5' x 4.5' squares that latch in the center would be portable enough as well. Cost is the only issue I guess.
phillipchristian
New Member
You wouldn't lose too much vertical space if you did the framing of the floor in 2x2's and used 1/2" plywood.
phillipchristian
New Member
phillipchristian
New Member
Hey Kamie,
That is an awful lot of light for that room and for 2' plants. Couple things I have noticed: First, even though the room is 13x10 I am assuming you won't have the ENTIRE space covered with plants? I mean, you are going to need room for other equipment and to walk around. I would say 4 lights max is all you will need. You could probably run those lights dimmed to 600w (use 600w bulbs if you do this) and save a lot on heating and electricity. Second; if you are only growing 2' plants you don't need all that penetration of a 1000w light. You are just adding heat and electrical draw that you don't need. Are you growing SOG on trays? If so, how big are your trays and how many do you have?
If you end up going with 6,000w in there then I would look into a minisplit. 18,000-24,000btu. That is a ton of heat you will be producing. If you don't want to do the minisplit then I think you are going to need 2 12,000btu portable a/c units. You can try it with 1 but I'm pretty sure you are going to need another. I really can't recommend any particular brand cause I have never used them before. I do know you want a dual hose unit as they are more efficient. You will need a place to draw air from and to exhaust it. That means more vents.
You can get both worm castings and lime online. Most hydro stores carry worm castings but a lot of them do not carry lime. I would say 3-4 15lb. bags of worm castings and a 5lb bag of dolmite lime would be plenty to hold you over for a while. Worm Castings provide great beneficial bacteria additives to the soil which Sunshine lacks a little on. They also make it easier for you plant to uptake Nitrogem and Potassium. I've heard the new Sunshin #4 Pro has added beneficials and bacteria but I 'm not sure cause I haven't really looked into it. Dolmite lime is stricly for pH stability in your soil as Sunshine is a soiless mix and tends to fluctuate pH a lot. You can get the lime on Amazon for $20 (http://www.amazon.com/Dolomitic-Lime-6-5-lb-bag/dp/B001L9QFOY/ref=sr_1_sc_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1334476141&sr=8-6-spell) and the worm castings as well (http://www.amazon.com/Pure-Organic-Worm-Castings-15/dp/B00062KQ42/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1334476256&sr=1-1). Remember, 20-25% worm casting mixed in with your soil and 1 tablespoon of dolmite lime per gallon of soil and casting mix. Helps to just get a wheel barrow or tub. Grab a 3 gallon pot and for every 4 scoops of Sunshine you add a scoop of worm castings. That will be 15 gallons of soil mix. Then just add 15 tablespoons (1 cup) of lime.
If you aren't going any taller than 2-3 feet then 3 gallon pots will be plenty and will allow you to fit more plants under your lights. 5 gallon pots are for bigger plants; 4-5'.
Totally confused about your room layout. Anyway to just sketch it out on paper real quick so I can see what you mean? Just give me the layout and the dimensions for the walls, doors, windows, etc... Take a picture of your drawing and post that.
Sencha
Active Member
I'm going to post this equipment list, maybe you can help me decide on a 1k light/hood and a new meter. I currently have...
1-LumenAire 8" Reflector w/600 watt Quantum/Hortilux
1-EasyCool 6" Reflector w/600 watt HTG/HTG
(adding a 1k light this week)
1- CAP Valuline 8" fan 745 cfm with an 8" Phresh filter
1-HTG 6" fan 450 cfm for cooling the hoods.
1-CAP intermitent timer for my Aero unit
I have a custom built Aero cloner and an Aero/NFT (6 unit site) for flower.
Plenty of air pumps
Shitty meters pH and PPM
4-4' T-8s and a 150 watt HPS for veg
2-10'x20' sheets of Panda
4'x8' Ebay Tent
1-6" Inline fan
1-4" Centrifugal fan ~180 cfm
As far as the floor goes, I don't think I have the time or skill for it. These panda film walls need to go, SOON. May be removing carpet today
1-LumenAire 8" Reflector w/600 watt Quantum/Hortilux
1-EasyCool 6" Reflector w/600 watt HTG/HTG
(adding a 1k light this week)
1- CAP Valuline 8" fan 745 cfm with an 8" Phresh filter
1-HTG 6" fan 450 cfm for cooling the hoods.
1-CAP intermitent timer for my Aero unit
I have a custom built Aero cloner and an Aero/NFT (6 unit site) for flower.
Plenty of air pumps
Shitty meters pH and PPM
4-4' T-8s and a 150 watt HPS for veg
2-10'x20' sheets of Panda
4'x8' Ebay Tent
1-6" Inline fan
1-4" Centrifugal fan ~180 cfm
As far as the floor goes, I don't think I have the time or skill for it. These panda film walls need to go, SOON. May be removing carpet today
phillipchristian
New Member
If you can build the walls then building the floor is just as easy. Frame out the exterior size of your rooms. Then just lay it on the floor and add plywood. I would make the spacing 2' on the studs since it's a floor. For your walls just put up plywood as well. Then get duct insulation wrap. It's cheap, insulating, and very reflective. They sell it an Home Depot or Lowes.I'm going to post this equipment list, maybe you can help me decide on a 1k light/hood and a new meter. I currently have...
1-LumenAire 8" Reflector w/600 watt Quantum/Hortilux
1-EasyCool 6" Reflector w/600 watt HTG/HTG
(adding a 1k light this week)
1- CAP Valuline 8" fan 745 cfm with an 8" Phresh filter
1-HTG 6" fan 450 cfm for cooling the hoods.
1-CAP intermitent timer for my Aero unit
I have a custom built Aero cloner and an Aero/NFT (6 unit site) for flower.
Plenty of air pumps
Shitty meters pH and PPM
T-8s and a 150 watt HPS for veg
As far as the floor goes, I don't think I have the time or skill for it. These panda film walls need to go, SOON. May be removing carpet today
For a pH/ppm meter I would go with a Hanna. I like them a lot. I've had one for 2 years with no problems. Buy the 2 bottles of calibration solution. 4.01 and 7.0. Also, wash it off before you store it with the cleanest water you have.
Sencha
Active Member
I'm a stoner. I'd spend too much time figuring out how to make the floor, 4 pieces and interlocking. HR made a good point. If I take out the whole 20x9 section, I can put it back as needed. I'll save some much needed time.
Can you recommend a good, concrete, drill bit? ...and size.
Lets talk about a bit of sound proofing before we talk plywood. I have some extra sheets of drywall for the outside. Some new, fireproof, drywall might be doable instead. 4xsheets whould do it. FP 4x8s are ~$7
Why do you recommend plywood on the inside? I will have plenty of panda film left over. I was thinking, inside out: panda film/cheap insulation(mostly for sound) foamboard or what? not sure/drywall. Plywood is also too expensive.
I need extra thought for sound deadening because the Valuline is pretty loud, it shakes the room upstairs as well. I know I need a speed controller but that is NOT in budget atm.
Thanks for your help. I really needed someone elses input on this. I wasted alot of energy on the panda film walls. I want to do it right this time.
Next up...atmosphere, to seal or not to seal
Can you recommend a good, concrete, drill bit? ...and size.
Lets talk about a bit of sound proofing before we talk plywood. I have some extra sheets of drywall for the outside. Some new, fireproof, drywall might be doable instead. 4xsheets whould do it. FP 4x8s are ~$7
Why do you recommend plywood on the inside? I will have plenty of panda film left over. I was thinking, inside out: panda film/cheap insulation(mostly for sound) foamboard or what? not sure/drywall. Plywood is also too expensive.
I need extra thought for sound deadening because the Valuline is pretty loud, it shakes the room upstairs as well. I know I need a speed controller but that is NOT in budget atm.
Thanks for your help. I really needed someone elses input on this. I wasted alot of energy on the panda film walls. I want to do it right this time.
Next up...atmosphere, to seal or not to seal
Rrog
Well-Known Member
5/8" thick drywall is the goal. Use the heavy stuff on the inside of the walls, where the noise is being produced. If the walls were 2x4, and spaced every 24" rather than 16", your sound isolation will improve a lot. Consider using a first layer of OSB, then drywall. That way you can drive a screw and hang a light anywhere. Use standard R13 fiberglass in the wall. Paper faced so you can staple to studs.
phillipchristian
New Member
Drillbit? They are all the same for what you are trying to do. Just get one from the hardware store. Dewalt, Bosch, Milwaukee, whatever.
I recommended plywood cause it is cheap and durable. I don't know what materials you have to work with. Any sturdy board material will work. It's up to you. Use whatever you want; I'm just giving suggestions. Use drywall, plywood, foam board, particle board, whatever.
Sencha
Active Member
I asked about the bit because everytime I buy a concrete bit, it only lasts about 20 holes. The foam board was more a question of insulation/sound proofing. I've updated my equipment list. I also have 6 sheets of drywall and 2 sheets of green board.
I don't want to drywall both sides and the plywood is twice the cost. Panda film for the inside wall or bad idea? Not enough sound proofing?
@Rrog, thanks for the input. I like the idea of 24" stud space. That insulation might be out of budget though. Is there a cheaper option?
I don't want to drywall both sides and the plywood is twice the cost. Panda film for the inside wall or bad idea? Not enough sound proofing?
@Rrog, thanks for the input. I like the idea of 24" stud space. That insulation might be out of budget though. Is there a cheaper option?
Rrog
Well-Known Member
Foam won't soundproof. It has no mass.
Some thicknesses of OSB are pretty darned cheap, though it weighs less than drywall.
Insulation helps, but people believe it does more than it really does. It's an intuitive conclusion. If cash was fixed, I would pay for extra drywall and skip the insulation
Some thicknesses of OSB are pretty darned cheap, though it weighs less than drywall.
Insulation helps, but people believe it does more than it really does. It's an intuitive conclusion. If cash was fixed, I would pay for extra drywall and skip the insulation
Sencha
Active Member
Opting for a happy medium between easy of tear down and sound proofing.....I'll use the drywall that I have on the outside. I'll buy the R-13 insulation, and I'll panda film over it on the inside. If I don't get the sound proof I need, I can always add drywall to the inside later, and it will be easy to do.
If I stumble on some extra cash, I'll OSB the inside. I know I'll be getting some for the ceiling regardless.
If I stumble on some extra cash, I'll OSB the inside. I know I'll be getting some for the ceiling regardless.
phillipchristian
New Member
Agreed! I don't know your budget Sencha. That's why I suggested plywood. 1/2" CDX is pretty cheap man.