Anybody growing mushrooms willing to talk???

fruitbowl said:

^ i get mine on ebay "sterilite 105QT latch box". theyre also the perfect size to use for a SAB (StillAirBoX) :].

after i break up my 7-10 spawnjars and mix them together with the 4" inch of coco sub in the Tub i might sprinkle an extra 1" inch layer of coco coir on top of all that.. thats casing right?ha

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No, that's not casing. That is just sprinkling something on top.

Casing is a low nutrient high absorbancy covering..half to an inch and a half thick that signals the mycelium that it is running out of food. It serves to foster compatable organisms, supply water and protect the substrate below. You will at least double your yield using casing.

Canddo knows whats up. I used a lot of advice from him after going to bulk monotubs. PC to sterilize popcorn, white seems better. I never got around to cloning with tissue, but had a couple I wish I did. Generally around 1 cc spore solution for qt jar. Hardest part is making sure you cook the popcorn right, and make sure the grain is ENTIRELY dry and cool. If you load the jars warm they steam and cook further, creating problems. I used straight Coco coir from PetSmart, cheapest you'll find besides online somewhere. It's a little more coarse than others and I probably should've leeched it but it still did a decent job. I was never able to get a good 3 flushes though. Outside cultures started to take hold after the second, granted it wasn't the cleanest working environment.

I would load the colonized qt grain jars 1:1 with pasteurized coir, and mix it leaving 1 jar of grain and 2 jars of coir. After it's mixed I'd take the jar I didn't mix and sprinkle it over the top and layer the coir on top. It seemed to give me the better results after messing with different rilatios, or layering/mixing. You get some weird looks cashing out with 10 bags of popcorn, disinfectant and alcohol

I'm no expert but have some knowledge. If you have questions

A.k.a said:

They don’t need much light, sometimes they’ll grow towards it if it’s kinda dark but usually they don’t care.

some weird cubes I’ve got going right now

View attachment 5124337

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That's Albino P.E. correct? They don't need much light but do better with full coverage over the mycelium for more even pinning and less aborts

i like viagrow's coco-coir 11Lb. 2pack and i use damion5050-bucket-tek <3. SO happy i didn't have to use perlite in my substrate just 100% coir (1300g. for 4" in the 105QT) easy. worked well/grew perfectly potent fruits O_0

im gonna pour some agar plates Later (10g. LME, 10g. Agar and 400mL. Water) was the recipe in the 500ML. pyrex bottle PC'd at 30min 15psi

Mr.Marijuana420 said:

That's Albino P.E. correct? They don't need much light but do better with full coverage over the mycelium for more even pinning and less aborts

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That was called shakti blue brain

fruitbowl said:

i like viagrow's coco-coir 11Lb. 2pack and i use damion5050-bucket-tek <3. SO happy i didn't have to use perlite in my substrate just 100% coir (1300g. for 4" in the 105QT) easy. worked well/grew perfectly potent fruits O_0

im gonna pour some agar plates Later (10g. LME, 10g. Agar and 400mL. Water) was the recipe in the 500ML. pyrex bottle PC'd at 30min 15psi

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Try adding .5 gr soy peptone and or .5 gr yeast extract.

Where's a good place to buy spores

Lizard0420 said:

Where's a good place to buy spores

There its a current thread on that right here...

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What if you made a simple grid patterned heat ex-changer coil from pipe/tubing, layering it right in the middle of 6-8 inches or more of the substrate, when spawning it to a bulk tub. Like a mini geothermal loop buried in the ground, but on a smaller scale. Use a high spawn to sub ratio too. Then pump coolant through it and out to a radiator or reservoir to remove the heat (directly from the center, ulnlike other assumed methods) that would otherwise build up wnd cause the problems you guys were experiencing Does the extra heat actually help in colder wintertime temps or some other situations?..Anyway, use a digi temp controller to trigger the circulation pump. Stick the temp probe right in the hot spot, so its all automatically controlled to the desired temp range you want.. Wonder if you would get massive flushes that way? Has anyone attempted anything like that? Literally water cooling the sub in a mono? I guess if I'm asking, then probably not, lol. I'll add that one to the list of crazy "automated tub" experiments to try out sometime..

Drop That Sound said:

What if you made a simple grid patterned heat ex-changer coil from pipe/tubing, layering it right in the middle of 6-8 inches or more of the substrate, when spawning it to a bulk tub. Like a mini geothermal loop buried in the ground, but on a smaller scale. Use a high spawn to sub ratio too. Then pump coolant through it and out to a radiator or reservoir to remove the heat (directly from the center, ulnlike other assumed methods) that would otherwise build up wnd cause the problems you guys were experiencing Does the extra heat actually help in colder wintertime temps or some other situations?..Anyway, use a digi temp controller to trigger the circulation pump. Stick the temp probe right in the hot spot, so its all automatically controlled to the desired temp range you want.. Wonder if you would get massive flushes that way? Has anyone attempted anything like that? Literally water cooling the sub in a mono? I guess if I'm asking, then probably not, lol. I'll add that one to the list of crazy "automated tub" experiments to try out sometime..

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That is exactly how it is done. But for home growers the yield differential isn't worth the trouble. Flatness and good casing composition is still the big key. Industrial growers use hydrolic presses to make the surface of the bed like a table top. Of course they have cold shocking strategies as well. Studies indicate as much as a 10 increase in yield of cubensis btw.

Pivotal to yield is first flush. The greater that first flush the higher the total yield.

You can never recover on subsequent flushes.

I have tried every supplement and supplement application method. Water crystals work.. a little. Supplement at casing with cotton seed meal works but it is too prone to overheating.

Light deprivation works. The idea is to make the fruit stretch, forcing them to add cellular mass before yhe lights are turned on so you get decent caps. There is a picture of the results here somewhere. But it isn't worth the trouble either.
The best yields I ever got were finely chopped straw mixed with more coarse straw and about 10 percent aged horse manure cased in ph adjusted peat with 15 percent coir. Everything is exhausted after 2nd flush. There are pictures of that here as well.

Equador

These equadors are Killing it!!!!

I finally went ahead and bought some big 60 quart tubs I'm going to be using now. I like the way that you can just stack them in rows it saves a lot of space. I love doing these Shoe Box dub tubs but it's a little difficult when there's a bunch of them

How deep is your substrate mix

Purpfarmer said:

How deep is your substrate mix

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About 3 in

P. Natalensis
I tried a little experiment with these tubs. After the first flush I I flipped the cakes over and got a nice one off the bottom too

Argentina

What do you think the yield is?

Purple mystic

this strain has some really fat solid stems filled with that blue magic.

Purpfarmer said:

What do you think the yield is?

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With my 6 quart shoe boxes I'm averaging a couple ounces per box. I use 1 quart of Spawn and about 2 quarts of coco. With the season changes I have to play around with my Field capacity and how much I hydrate. When it's cold and dry and I have to run a space heater I have to hydrate them a little more. During the summer I hydrate a lot less because the humidity will be high.