attention uvb users, what light cycles are you using????

cocoxxx

cocoxxx

Well-Known Member
i have been reading through these threads and was wondering what sort of cycle people where running there uvb lights for.

im currently running a stealth grow, 2 22w 2700k cfls, 1 250w envirolite alongside a 26w reptisun 10.0 uvb.(cfl style)

my flower cycle is 1900 - 0700 (thats lights on) with the uvb on from 2300 - 0300.things are starting to look frosty and im only 3 weeks into flower.

so whats working for everyone else???? :weed:​
 
J

jack tripper

Well-Known Member
cocoxxx said:
i have been reading through these threads and was wondering what sort of cycle people where running there uvb lights for.​


im currently running a stealth grow, 2 22w 2700k cfls, 1 250w envirolite alongside a 26w reptisun 10.0 uvb.(cfl style)​

my flower cycle is 1900 - 0700 (thats lights on) with the uvb on from 2300 - 0300.things are starting to look frosty and im only 3 weeks into flower.​


so whats working for everyone else???? :weed:​
Click to expand...
I just bought the same uvb light, is it working for you the way you thought it would? i plan on keeping mine on full 12 hours.
 
cocoxxx

cocoxxx

Well-Known Member
jack tripper said:
I just bought the same uvb light, is it working for you the way you thought it would? i plan on keeping mine on full 12 hours.
Click to expand...


i have noticed an increase in crystal production, which always seems to be lacking when with growing cfls. (just my personal opinion), but adding this light seems to vastly improve appearence.

from what ive read you shouldnt run that light for 12 hours straight away, but build up to it .
 
J

jack tripper

Well-Known Member
cocoxxx said:
i have noticed an increase in crystal production, which always seems to be lacking when with growing cfls. (just my personal opinion), but adding this light seems to vastly improve appearence.

from what ive read you shouldnt run that light for 12 hours straight away, but build up to it .
Click to expand...
cool, thanks:bigjoint:
 
cocoxxx

cocoxxx

Well-Known Member
no other uvb users, no, nooone, come on spread the knolege. anyone actually run these for 12/12 with there normal lights????
 
Hobbes

Hobbes

Well-Known Member
I've got 3 x 30w UVB 8.0 floro tubes and a 160w mercury vapor heat/uvb flood.

I run 2 tubes in a 2 bulb fixture hanging from a wall, the fixture turned sideways so it lights the outside buds facing away from the main light. The 160W lamp is 24" over one of my finishing plants, I'm starting to switch it over to a second plant after 6 hours. The third tube I run in a single bulb fixture against the other wall, where I have younger plants in flower - I'm not using it right now.

I find that the trichs turn milky and amber quicker than any other grow. I've always had trouble getting plants to finish, this is the first time I have plants maturing nearly on time. It's hard to tell yet if the plants are more potent, and a blueberry plant didn't fill out well while under UVB 11 hours a day. The buds were fluffy - BUT - I had trouble with this blueberry mother and clones on the last grow (swaping it out for Blue Moonshine).

I've never used UVB for veg, not important to me. For flower it seems to be helping but I would like a 100% UVB light for growing instead of lizard lights.

.

bongsmilie
 
Ghost420

Ghost420

Well-Known Member
in my last 2 weeks of flower i am running them 4 hrs a day broken down to 2 hr periods. uvb in excess is not good for your leaves keep it how you would expect nature to be.
 
cocoxxx

cocoxxx

Well-Known Member
Hobbes said:
I've got 3 x 30w UVB 8.0 floro tubes and a 160w mercury vapor heat/uvb flood.

I run 2 tubes in a 2 bulb fixture hanging from a wall, the fixture turned sideways so it lights the outside buds facing away from the main light. The 160W lamp is 24" over one of my finishing plants, I'm starting to switch it over to a second plant after 6 hours. The third tube I run in a single bulb fixture against the other wall, where I have younger plants in flower - I'm not using it right now.

I find that the trichs turn milky and amber quicker than any other grow. I've always had trouble getting plants to finish, this is the first time I have plants maturing nearly on time. It's hard to tell yet if the plants are more potent, and a blueberry plant didn't fill out well while under UVB 11 hours a day. The buds were fluffy - BUT - I had trouble with this blueberry mother and clones on the last grow (swaping it out for Blue Moonshine).

I've never used UVB for veg, not important to me. For flower it seems to be helping but I would like a 100% UVB light for growing instead of lizard lights.

.

bongsmilie
Click to expand...
thats a lot of uvb my man, what size area is that, just curious,

wondering if im a bit underpowered

from the uvb side of things, like u said a

100.0 uvb lamp would be interesting,

dont think it would be to good for you

personally lol:hump:
 
cocoxxx

cocoxxx

Well-Known Member
Ghost420 said:
in my last 2 weeks of flower i am running them 4 hrs a day broken down to 2 hr periods. uvb in excess is not good for your leaves keep it how you would expect nature to be.
Click to expand...
what would you be running your uvb in

at in peak time? what ive been doing is

running uvb in mid light cyle and

gradually raiseing uvb 1 hour a week

but always in the middle of the light

cycle ( evenly, if that makes sense).
 
J

jack tripper

Well-Known Member
i've been useing mine for the full 12 hours, i have'nt had any problems. I alternate the light between 1hawaiian snow and 1 white rhino, i keep it 5" away from top cola. the buds are showing nice trichome production, but this is my first time growing these strains so i'm not sure if it's above average.
 
cocoxxx

cocoxxx

Well-Known Member
i have 2 white rhinos ( greenhouse seeds) flowering at the moment (5 weeks in) the one rhino seems to be a couple of weeks infront of the other, both the same height ( about 18 inches) multi colas and the more developed rhino is frosty and sticky. i think i might go with the 12 houur uvb in the final week.
 
Hobbes

Hobbes

Well-Known Member
"thats a lot of uvb my man, what size area is that"

4.5' x 4.5'

But that's not 250W UVB. The floros are 8%, so (3 x 30w x .08 =) 7.2w UVB. The flood doesn't have a % listed on the box or on the net, but say it's 5% to 10%, at the most I've got 15w UVB but most likely around 7.5w UVB from the flood. There's a lot of heat with the flood. We need a UVB growing lamp.

Some guys on the main UVB thread figured out how many watts UVB per square foot we need, I'm way, way, way under noon in Equador.

.

bongsmilie
 
Hobbes

Hobbes

Well-Known Member
Here's some figures and a link to the main thread:

250 microwatts/cm2 is and average around the equator.
929.034cm2 in a sqr. Ft. x 250 microwatts/cm2 = 232,257.60 microwatts/cm2
232,257.60 microwatts/cm2 = .23211 watts per Sqr. Ft.

so we need .23211 watts per Sqr. ft. of UVB

ie: Reptisun 10.0 UVB, 20 watts, 10% UVB 33% UVA
10% of 20 watts = 2 watts of UVB
grow area 4x4= 16 sqr. ft.
16 x .23211= 3.7137 watts per Sqr. ft of UVB Light

What he's saying is that a 20w 10.0 UVB bulb will emit about 16x more UVB than the sun. The only difference is, the UVB emitted from the sun is measured at human height (hundreds of millions of miles from the sun) - whereas the UVB emitted from the bulb is measured quite close to it. As you get further away, the intensity drops off quite quickly. You should have about sun intensity on your canopy if you use this kind of bulb on the top of your tent - around your HID, probabaly a bit higher.

So just put in a massive wattage and effiency bulb right? Wrong. UVB is very directional. If the theory holds up, it should be a lot better for your plants if you buy a couple of lower wattage lamps and spread them out. Otherwise, the top buds will absorb loads and anything undereathe will get zero.

I've been wondering about CFL versus strips myselfs and I think strips win, because they spread the light better. CFL's (with reflectors) will tend to produce a cone shaped light pattern, which is only good if you have one over every plant.

It's not only the light power you have to think about - all reptile lights put out a decent amount of UVB, get a reasonably high power one and put two foot over your grow and you have sun+ UVB. Out in the wild, cannabis might grow in individual bushes and it has all the soil it can want at it's roots, so it'll grow taller than us and really bushy - letting the UV hit it all over. Indoor grows, we tend to use smaller pots and keep it short and dense. That prevents the light getting deep inside the foilage, and so the buds won't be getting exposed - you need to move the light or plant around. I seriously doubt the UVB will make it through a single layer of leaves.

I think by far the best idea is to drop some vertical strips through the grow, or cfl's without reflectprs amd sure the plants are turned all the time. That way, each bud will be getting bombed with UVB. You can pull the ballast and bulb connectors out a normal fluoro fitting, then hook the light up minus the metal casing so there's nothing to create a shadow.

Light movers are good, but it'll still be mainly the canopy that's getting the UVB. The UVB won't go through the leaves. Where ever there's a leaf, the UVB will be getting destroyed and it won't go through to lower leaves / buds.

.

https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/96571-10-0-uvb-light.html

.

bongsmilie
 
SayWord

SayWord

Well-Known Member
i run mine for about 6 hours during the 12 hours of lights on. i dont necesarily run it for the same six hours every day though, it just depends when im home and stuff since its not on a timer, i turn it on and off by hand.

i wouldnt put it on more than 8 hours. 6 seems to be about perfect. I can definately see much more crystallyness since using it tho. thats for sure
 
cocoxxx

cocoxxx

Well-Known Member
Hobbes said:
Here's some figures and a link to the main thread:

250 microwatts/cm2 is and average around the equator.
929.034cm2 in a sqr. Ft. x 250 microwatts/cm2 = 232,257.60 microwatts/cm2
232,257.60 microwatts/cm2 = .23211 watts per Sqr. Ft.

so we need .23211 watts per Sqr. ft. of UVB

ie: Reptisun 10.0 UVB, 20 watts, 10% UVB 33% UVA
10% of 20 watts = 2 watts of UVB
grow area 4x4= 16 sqr. ft.
16 x .23211= 3.7137 watts per Sqr. ft of UVB Light

What he's saying is that a 20w 10.0 UVB bulb will emit about 16x more UVB than the sun. The only difference is, the UVB emitted from the sun is measured at human height (hundreds of millions of miles from the sun) - whereas the UVB emitted from the bulb is measured quite close to it. As you get further away, the intensity drops off quite quickly. You should have about sun intensity on your canopy if you use this kind of bulb on the top of your tent - around your HID, probabaly a bit higher.

So just put in a massive wattage and effiency bulb right? Wrong. UVB is very directional. If the theory holds up, it should be a lot better for your plants if you buy a couple of lower wattage lamps and spread them out. Otherwise, the top buds will absorb loads and anything undereathe will get zero.

I've been wondering about CFL versus strips myselfs and I think strips win, because they spread the light better. CFL's (with reflectors) will tend to produce a cone shaped light pattern, which is only good if you have one over every plant.

It's not only the light power you have to think about - all reptile lights put out a decent amount of UVB, get a reasonably high power one and put two foot over your grow and you have sun+ UVB. Out in the wild, cannabis might grow in individual bushes and it has all the soil it can want at it's roots, so it'll grow taller than us and really bushy - letting the UV hit it all over. Indoor grows, we tend to use smaller pots and keep it short and dense. That prevents the light getting deep inside the foilage, and so the buds won't be getting exposed - you need to move the light or plant around. I seriously doubt the UVB will make it through a single layer of leaves.

I think by far the best idea is to drop some vertical strips through the grow, or cfl's without reflectprs amd sure the plants are turned all the time. That way, each bud will be getting bombed with UVB. You can pull the ballast and bulb connectors out a normal fluoro fitting, then hook the light up minus the metal casing so there's nothing to create a shadow.

Light movers are good, but it'll still be mainly the canopy that's getting the UVB. The UVB won't go through the leaves. Where ever there's a leaf, the UVB will be getting destroyed and it won't go through to lower leaves / buds.

.

https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/96571-10-0-uvb-light.html

.

bongsmilie
Click to expand...
thanks 4 the link, great info, one thing that i have noticed personally, is that the buds below canopy level seem to improve in potency despite not being in direct uvb. (when i say improve in potency i mean 'look' more potent as i am yet to sample). :peace:
 
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