Beginning of Something Suspicious: Need Help Identifying

Clyde122

Member
Man, I would flush them and wait a week till I started nutrients again. Mix a foliar solution with epsom salt in it and super thrive. Mix a gallon or water use bottled water if you can't test your water. 1tsp of epsom salt, 10 drops of super thrive. If you want a better solution. I'd mix a 1/2 oz Maxi crop seaweed in there with 1 uncoated aspirin 325 mg. This is what I use every grow once a week. It should help if you get it on them soon. Just my humble opinion.
 

Shrubs First

Well-Known Member
Does anyone use this product?

http://www.emearth.com/emshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=329

I use EM-1 to inoculate my garden space, compost pit and to create bokashi. It's cheap and you can create you own effective microorganism colonies. I think it contains over 130 beneficial bacteria. All you need, right? I use molasses to supplement simply sugars for the bacteria when applying, but they will propagate and maintain on there own without additional carbohydrates. Thinking about inoculating next batch of sunshine mix.
It's a great way to introduce bacteria. But mycorrhizal spores require actual
propegules to come in contact with the root. They do not come from
that. Inoculants are the most effective way to introduce them. Great White Premium
Mycorrhizae is a great product. White widdow is great as well. Check around
 

Shrubs First

Well-Known Member
Hey, last time I was at the hydro store they gave me a sample of this stuff for free. Has anyone else used this stuff, and do you like it? It says to apply it directly to the roots during a transplant, or to mix it with water and water it in. According to what you are saying about the FFOF, I should use this product (or something similar) so the plants can make the most out of the other stuff that FFOF already has in it? If so do I only need to apply it one time and then a colony will grow or do I need to reapply it at certain intervals? Also is there a way to tell if you have a colony of symbiotic organisms growing and how big/strong of a colony it is?
View attachment 966648View attachment 966647
With my mycorrhizals I apply 2 times durig veg and once at the beginning of flowering.
But this is in coco, soil is a much more hospitable environment for myco colonies and you would
be fine with once during veg and once during flowering. More won't hurt though.
 

Antigen

Well-Known Member
Thanks for your help!

So do you think that I need to apply it to the roots when transplanting or would mixing it with water and watering work well enough? I only ask because of your earlier post about "mycorrhizal spores needing to come into contact with the roots".

And there is no way to tell if it has worked, if I have a colony growing or not?
 

Shrubs First

Well-Known Member
Thanks for your help!

So do you think that I need to apply it to the roots when transplanting or would mixing it with water and watering work well enough? I only ask because of your earlier post about "mycorrhizal spores needing to come into contact with the roots".

And there is no way to tell if it has worked, if I have a colony growing or not?
I've done both, applied when feeding, and that worked great. As well as amending in with the soil.
The best success with that is, since mine is a powder, is to just sprinkle a little in the space you will
be placing your root ball, this insures direct contact with the roots, and once moistened will immediately
begin to react.

When you repot your plants after using it, you will see a difference in root structure. Not only will you have
primary, secondary and fine roots, but you will notice an extreme fuzziness on your roots, these individual
hairs are the build up of mycorrhizal, it's difficult to make out unless you see a before and after.

Before


After


Sorry, it's hard to make out the fine fuzzyness
 

Chebus

Active Member
Dood, fix ur grow first!!!!! I know I Said I was done a while ago, but after readin ur journal I had to post how much of a joke u Are, but deep down I think u know that already...Maye one day ull be a harvester not just a grower.... maybe
 

Shrubs First

Well-Known Member
Dood, fix ur grow first!!!!! I know I Said I was done a while ago, but after readin ur journal I had to post how much of a joke u Are, but deep down I think u know that already...Maye one day ull be a harvester, maybe
You make yourself look like more and more of an idiot with every word typed. Fix your grammar.

You know everything you say about growing is wrong. So you resort to trying to put me down for
my problems. Well I don't deny that my yields have been light. But I don't need to. The buds are
beautiful and plenty. Maybe one day you'll actually grow some green.
 

Antigen

Well-Known Member
Awesome info Shrubs, thanks! I know exactly what you mean about the fuzzyness, because I have seen it on some of my clones before! I use Rapid Rooter Plugs, and perhaps they have some mycorrhizae stuff in them already. The plugs are pre-moistened with something, but I don't know why it would only cause some of the clones to get fuzzy roots and not others.

I also like the idea of applying it to the hole where I'm going to place the root ball, that sounds like the perfect way to do it. I was gonna try shaking it or rubbing it onto the roots directly, but your idea sounds much better. :)
 

Dayzt

Well-Known Member
Dood, fix ur grow first!!!!! I know I Said I was done a while ago, but after readin ur journal I had to post how much of a joke u Are, but deep down I think u know that already...Maye one day ull be a harvester not just a grower.... maybe
You make yourself look like more and more of an idiot with every word typed. Fix your grammar.

You know everything you say about growing is wrong. So you resort to trying to put me down for
my problems. Well I don't deny that my yields have been light. But I don't need to. The buds are
beautiful and plenty. Maybe one day you'll actually grow some green.
Hey guys, show some respect here - this is MedicalMary's post... no room for flaming each other, start another thread if you need help or want to be negative to each other. This site is for helping each other, not trying to '1 up' other growers. Peace!
 

bgold420

Active Member
Get MAGICAL ... and clip the already burned leaves ... had same problem , did that and shes in perfect health now
 

Polecat

Active Member
wow chebus. pissing of griz, riddleme, and shrubs. The fact that you are saying ffof is so damn good discredits you in my opion. If it was so good you could just roll up this forum and smoke it. Everybody would be using 30.00 bags of dirt. Most of the pros on this forum all say the samething, fox farm ocean forest is mediocre at best. But then again so is the MG mositure control.
 

Polecat

Active Member
Awesome info Shrubs, thanks! I know exactly what you mean about the fuzzyness, because I have seen it on some of my clones before! I use Rapid Rooter Plugs, and perhaps they have some mycorrhizae stuff in them already. The plugs are pre-moistened with something, but I don't know why it would only cause some of the clones to get fuzzy roots and not others.

I also like the idea of applying it to the hole where I'm going to place the root ball, that sounds like the perfect way to do it. I was gonna try shaking it or rubbing it onto the roots directly, but your idea sounds much better. :)
The plugs I bought were soaked in (hydrozyme ?)
 

Polecat

Active Member
Dayzit is right. Sorry Mary. Would like to thank you for the rep. in the cop bashing threads.
 

cowboylogic

Well-Known Member
Lol whatever bro, that is a mag def due to lock out... But flush her all ud like, for the record, ditch the sunshine and dolomite and just use FFOF with extra perelite, wont cause any head scratchin(for some) problems, but I'm 99% sure that's no burn, guess well see
Lockout, funny.
 

medicalmary

Active Member
Hi all,

just an update. The ph of soil mixture spiked. Must be high b/c I watered with h&g drip clean .5ml, 1/4tsp h&g roots excelerator and 1/2tsp dyna gro protekt (all per gallon water). Water was PHed at 6.0 (added ph down), because I thought it might be slightly alkaline. The runoff was 6.9ph. What does this mean? How high do you think my soil mixture ph is? Why is magnesium being locked out in alkaline soil? Also, dyna gro foliage pro has chelated iron, manganese and copper. These micro nutrients, especially fe and mn are first to lockout in alkaline. Maybe top growth is healthy because of chelation.

course of action. Should I add small small amounts of sulfur to bring down ph?

In about 2-3 weeks they will be ready to transplant into 4 gallon pots. They are in 2 gallon pots right now with the funky soil mixture. Should I re-pot with only sunshine #4 in outer part of pot? I expect that since I'm not adding additional nutrients right now the fox farm should be depleted by then. Also, I toying with adding calcined clay in 5-7% to sunshine. It acts as a ph buffer and supplies the plant with much needed silica slowly. Thanks riddle.

here are some links to calcined clay:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montmorillonite

and all of riddleme's research nugs:

https://www.rollitup.org/blogs/blog366-calcined-clay-well-kept-secret.html

Just some random thoughts. Thanks all.
 

medicalmary

Active Member
also, please no more ffos vs. sunshine mix debate here. I've chosen sunshine for it's ph stability and to know exactly what nutrients i'm feeding my plants at any given time. One is soil and one is soilless. These are two different things.

Thank you

mm
 
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