Best Germination Method

DCcan

Well-Known Member
Or use Rapid Rooters but the consistent heat is the key. In fact bottom heating of growing plants results in bigger plants in a shorter period of time.
I like rooters, just a labor saver for prep and hatching.
Bit of vermiculite to keep the top evenly moist, heat mat under.
Also inoculating the seeds and medium lately, some nice B. bassiana blooming on top with the tomato seeds.
 

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sirtalis

Well-Known Member
I get seedling mix fully saturated, use a pencil to make a 1/4 inch hole, plop in the bean, cover. I'll give a little more water on day 3 and the beans always pop on day 4 or 5.

Then I don't water for a week.
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
I keep everything simple. A couple of large bags of Black Gold get me through a season. Solo cups with multiple drain holes using a soldering iron. Reuse those cups over and over. Some I’ve used for 5 years. Until they crack. I haul municipal water because my cabin is dry here. Use pH test kit instead of a frigging meter.

My mantra is KISS
I'm currently using Black Gold in my 5g bags and next grow I'm moving to Promix for those, since I feel like maybe I'll have a little more consistency and control in my chemistry across the board. Used the Black Gold seed mix and it seemed just fine, I have more so I'll probably use it again though with .75g starting pots I may end up cutting it with Promix too.
 

MAGpie81

Well-Known Member
That works too. But there are still variables there that a newbie might wonder about. "How deep, how much water?" Etc.
Your advice to use deeper pots/plant in final medium is good advice. And newbs won’t necessarily know how deep to plant.
Some people have a memory loss and forgot they didn’t always know-it-all.
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
I'm currently using Black Gold in my 5g bags and next grow I'm moving to Promix for those, since I feel like maybe I'll have a little more consistency and control in my chemistry across the board. Used the Black Gold seed mix and it seemed just fine, I have more so I'll probably use it again though with .75g starting pots I may end up cutting it with Promix too.
I transplant into Pro Mix HP or more recently to Sunshine 4 High Porosity. Either way I add perlite and a cup of garden lime per 5 gallons. My used stuff I also add Xtreme Gardening Mykos. I use Mykos and sprinkle it on plugs as I’m transplanting each time as well. I have no problems getting roots.
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
I transplant into Pro Mix HP or more recently to Sunshine 4 High Porosity. Either way I add perlite and a cup of garden lime per 5 gallons. My used stuff I also add Xtreme Gardening Mykos. I use Mykos and sprinkle it on plugs as I’m transplanting each time as well. I have no problems getting roots.
Yep. The XG Mykos is on my list for this next time as well. I even discovered I don't have to order it in, there's a place along my daily commute that carries it. This last time I used BG and added both perlite and vermiculite. It didn't need the vermiculite and could have used 2 or 3 times as much perlite. Right now when I water or feed to run-off it's 4 days before I can water again. I don't have any lime on hand, but that's easy enough. The greenhouse supply place that carries the ProMix also has lime. I'm about 6 weeks from harvest right now, so I'll worry about that when the time comes.

Right now I'm looking forward to an October HLG sale and have money aside for hopefully 2x their 225's to match the one I already have. Then I'll have what amounts to 675w in a tent that's 3x5. The current grow is a shakedown, so that the next few can be way more successful.
 

PhillupJane

Member
I like rooters, just a labor saver for prep and hatching.
Bit of vermiculite to keep the top evenly moist, heat mat under.
Also inoculating the seeds and medium lately, some nice B. bassiana blooming on top with the tomato seeds.
Sounds like an extra step/product to me! My experience with rooters(or any small pot) is stunted seedlings. Have you ever done a side by side with say a 1 gallon? I encourage it, let the seeds touch water at the same time
:blsmoke:
 

PhillupJane

Member
I get seedling mix fully saturated, use a pencil to make a 1/4 inch hole, plop in the bean, cover. I'll give a little more water on day 3 and the beans always pop on day 4 or 5.

Then I don't water for a week.
That's basically what I do, but full saturation can be too much sometimes depending on temps/pot size/genetics
 

PhillupJane

Member
I'm going to try one of each next time. I just don't like waiting a week to find out to see the sprout..
That's what I like to hear! Experimenting is how we all learn. Let us know how it goes

If you are worried about wasted space/resources and are unsure if your beans are viable, you can always leave them in the water until you see the tail peaking out. The seeds remaining are usually duds
:blsmoke:
 

PhillupJane

Member
I transplant into Pro Mix HP or more recently to Sunshine 4 High Porosity. Either way I add perlite and a cup of garden lime per 5 gallons. My used stuff I also add Xtreme Gardening Mykos. I use Mykos and sprinkle it on plugs as I’m transplanting each time as well. I have no problems getting roots.
Do you use plugs or solo cups to start? Or from one to the other? If using solo cups I hope you use the tall ones. Not sure if you have yet, but I encourage a side by side of your usual start size and something bigger/deeper such as a 1 gal pot.

The seedling's taproot is obstructed in anything under 4" or so, I prefer 6". I found they may sprout slightly sooner in shorter but will also stretch more and have weaker growth. Not to mention at this young age it is mostly the roots doing all of the work, setting the foundation for strong foliage to come. Instead of being handled/transplanted unnecessarily, the seedling would be building a substantial root base. Most people would be suprised at how early in life a seedling fills a 1 gal pot

If people are looking for more fibrous roots, or their seedling is rootbound, they should score the rootball when they upsize. But let the taproot work its magic first
:blsmoke:
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
Do you use plugs or solo cups to start? Or from one to the other? If using solo cups I hope you use the tall ones. Not sure if you have yet, but I encourage a side by side of your usual start size and something bigger/deeper such as a 1 gal pot.

The seedling's taproot is obstructed in anything under 4" or so, I prefer 6". I found they may sprout slightly sooner in shorter but will also stretch more and have weaker growth. Not to mention at this young age it is mostly the roots doing all of the work, setting the foundation for strong foliage to come. Instead of being handled/transplanted unnecessarily, the seedling would be building a substantial root base. Most people would be suprised at how early in life a seedling fills a 1 gal pot

If people are looking for more fibrous roots, or their seedling is rootbound, they should score the rootball when they upsize. But let the taproot work its magic first
:blsmoke:
I use the tall red party cups. Then into 1.7 liter containers. Then 3 gallon. I rarely go over 3 gallon bags except for the plants I veg outdoors looking for the best pheno.
 

PhillupJane

Member
Your advice to use deeper pots/plant in final medium is good advice. And newbs won’t necessarily know how deep to plant.
Some people have a memory loss and forgot they didn’t always know-it-all.
Thank you! I know right, these know-it-all's seem to feel like its directed at them LOL
I broke it down so a first timer could read this and know exactly what to do to get great results.

I'm sure most of these people saying "duh put seed in soil" had issues/experiments with germination at one point themselves. And I state the specifics because the specifics are needed if one is to replicate the results of this method. I encourage side by sides and experiments by everyone, and if certain variables are changed for better effectiveness, I/we would like to know what step was changed so we can all learn

Because we are all here to learn right? If somebody's post is absolutely useless in terms of growing our base of knowledge then why post anything at all? For the likes? LOL take your ass back to social media with that shit
:blsmoke:
 

PhillupJane

Member
I use the tall red party cups. Then into 1.7 liter containers. Then 3 gallon. I rarely go over 3 gallon bags except for the plants I veg outdoors looking for the best pheno.
Nice, those tall ones work pretty well to start in. I used them before I compared them to 1 gals. I stuck with 1 gal through the years and find they are big enough to have an established rootbase that can handle any upsize.

I've found IME the least transplants the better. From 1 gal straight to the final size as long as it doesn't need more rootspace to veg longer before you have to move them(such as when you're starting plants early in the year for monsters outdoor).

I started a seed directly in a 20 gal for the first time this year(outside since I waited for the season) and I've got to say I'm impressed. I know people who started in Feb/March with lights, multiple transplants, and a lot more root space to finish in that have smaller plants
:blsmoke:
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
Nice, those tall ones work pretty well to start in. I used them before I compared them to 1 gals. I stuck with 1 gal through the years and find they are big enough to have an established rootbase that can handle any upsize.

I've found IME the least transplants the better. From 1 gal straight to the final size as long as it doesn't need more rootspace to veg longer before you have to move them(such as when you're starting plants early in the year for monsters outdoor).

I started a seed directly in a 20 gal for the first time this year(outside since I waited for the season) and I've got to say I'm impressed. I know people who started in Feb/March with lights, multiple transplants, and a lot more root space to finish in that have smaller plants
:blsmoke:
I’ve found graduated transplant frequently produces a bigger plant faster. In my experience.
 

Three Berries

Well-Known Member
I plant from a small peat pot to the final pot. I was using 2 gallon but went to 3.5. They are the same diameter of a 5 gal.

But mine are always stretched maybe 2.5-3" before they start the second set of leaves. Once they start the second set I then plant the whole thing deeper until the leaves are just a 1/2" or so above the soil. The hole stem will root out. You could also lay it on it's side, turning the tip up.

You have to be careful with a big pot and little plant as they don't use much water and it's easy to over water at this time
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
Depending on the situation I'll either use a 1ltr or go straight to the finishing pot ime straight to final pot is the quickest method.

Soaked in H202 mix overnight cracked and potted 2st August.
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They continue here if you're interested.
 
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