Bridgelux EB Gen 3 High Output 4ft Strips

what does low voltage means in this case?
lowest rated i have is for 150V.

SourDeezz said:

I have some leftover "low voltage" 18gauge solid wire, anyone know if they will work?

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When faced with the same decision I went against and bought some new wire rated 300V.

Yeah I went ahead and bought some solid 18 gauge 300v rated wires. If i'm wiring in parallel do I need to use the connectors on both sides of the strip to close the circuit? Or can I just use one side and wire all positives to positives and negatives to negatives?

Thanks

SourDeezz said:

Yeah I went ahead and bought some solid 18 gauge 300v rated wires. If i'm wiring in parallel do I need to use the connectors on both sides of the strip to close the circuit? Or can I just use one side and wire all positives to positives and negatives to negatives?

Thanks

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one side is fine. they are just on both ends for convenience.

So got the lights dimming off the Trolmaster app. This is so dope. Used the diagram posted by user @Oxyrhina.
I took a video but I guess it only lets you upload pictures.... so 2002.

Just need to do some wire management, and we're pretty much good to go.

This what the final deal looks like. I got some 1/8" wire cable to hang them with. Dimming Control through the RJ12 port with my Trolmaster controller. I tried to put two ports in so I could daisy chain the telephone cable from light to light. But unfortunately the fitting is two wide and only one can fit in the enclosure at a time. So I either have to cut some plastic off them so they fit better or just use one. And find another smaller port that can sneak in beside.

Using the Korona iPhone app with printer paper diffuser I get insane ppfd numbers under this fixture. Really looking to get a par meter to confirm

Are you planning on doing any heat testing? I still don't understand how they rate these as 1400mA nominal current without requiring heatsinking. Do you happen to know the answer to that?

tilopa said:

Are you planning on doing any heat testing? I still don't understand how they rate these as 1400mA nominal current without requiring heatsinking. Do you happen to know the answer to that?

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I returned my gen 3 high output and bought eb gen 3 slims. Running them at nominal. They just get warm. That's it's it. Even when room temps are at 29 degree Celsius.
Unless that was meant for sourdeez.

MidnightSun72 said:

I returned my gen 3 high output and bought eb gen 3 slims. Running them at nominal. They just get warm. That's it's it. Even when room temps are at 29 degree Celsius.
Unless that was meant for sourdeez.

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I have 1" x .5" aluminum extrusions on mine acting as heatsinks (probably overkill).

SourDeezz said:

I have 1" x .5" aluminum extrusions on mine acting as heatsinks (probably overkill).

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So, are you running the High Output SourDeezz? I've been going back and forth with Digi-key engineers about how these strips could be run at 1400 if they are the same actual emitters as the regular Gen 3. Do you happen to know if the size of the emitters are the same on the HO as regular Gen 3?

tilopa said:

So, are you running the High Output SourDeezz? I've been going back and forth with Digi-key engineers about how these strips could be run at 1400 if they are the same actual emitters as the regular Gen 3. Do you happen to know if the size of the emitters are the same on the HO as regular Gen 3?

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I'm running the EB Gen3 Thrive (98CRI) which run at 960ma. 6 strips connected to a 240w driver (strictly for veg).

SourDeezz said:

I'm running the EB Gen3 Thrive (98CRI) which run at 960ma. 6 strips connected to a 240w driver (strictly for veg).

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are those the single row tuneable ones? or do they make an EB3 Thrive in just one color temp?

SourDeezz said:

I'm running the EB Gen3 Thrive (98CRI) which run at 960ma. 6 strips connected to a 240w driver (strictly for veg).

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Those are different to the normal HO. Normal Ho are 1.4a nominal.

tilopa said:

So, are you running the High Output SourDeezz? I've been going back and forth with Digi-key engineers about how these strips could be run at 1400 if they are the same actual emitters as the regular Gen 3. Do you happen to know if the size of the emitters are the same on the HO as regular Gen 3?

Click to expand...

I had both strips in my hands. They look to be the exact same diode.
I spent weeks back and forth with Digi-Key. Techs. And trying to get a hold of bridgelux. Just following logic no point in paying for the HO strips with the same number of diodes when you can just run a slim harder.

Bridgelux consider themselves too good to respond to plebian consumers, even if you have assloads of their products. I recommend everyone in the world to choose a company that is not busy sucking dick all day. They are truly and utterly worthless. Contrast with TRP who reply within a day.

tilopa said:

Are you planning on doing any heat testing? I still don't understand how they rate these as 1400mA nominal current without requiring heatsinking. Do you happen to know the answer to that?

Click to expand...

Heatsinking is "not required" cause the test done is a pulsed Current, the width of this pulse is just a few microseconds so the heat generated in this period of time practically is none.
LEDs are tested with a single pulse, continuous pulse or DC depending on the standard that manufacturer needs to meet. For photometric and radiometrics single or continuous pulse are used, for luminous maintenance DC is used.
For the 560mm strip if the width is 50us
50/1000000=0.00005s

19.2Vx1.4A=26.88W

Avg.Power 26.88x0.00005=0.001344(1.34mW)

The rise in temperature that 1.34mW will produce is neglectable and the time is enough to take the necessary measurements.

ilovereggae said:

are those the single row tuneable ones? or do they make an EB3 Thrive in just one color temp?

Click to expand...

10WeekFlushBro said:

Bridgelux consider themselves too good to respond to plebian consumers, even if you have assloads of their products. I recommend everyone in the world to choose a company that is not busy sucking dick all day. They are truly and utterly worthless. Contrast with TRP who reply within a day.

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i tried a shirt on of extensions in their phone directory and couldn't so much as reach an operator.

MidnightSun72 said:

Those are different to the normal HO. Normal Ho are 1.4a nominal.

I had both strips in my hands. They look to be the exact same diode.
I spent weeks back and forth with Digi-Key. Techs. And trying to get a hold of bridgelux. Just following logic no point in paying for the HO strips with the same number of diodes when you can just run a slim harder.

Click to expand...

I wonder if it has to do with the binning of the diodes. maybe the high output ones are the top quality and they know they can be driven harder to achieve same lm/w.

reason for thinking this is something I just noticed in the regular Eb3 datasheet page 10. color binning.

it show B3 as the bin code for the regular Gen3. that is part of the part number. but the gen3 HO end with D3. so I am thinking if everything else diode count, pcb material and thickness, connectors etc. its gotta be the diodes themselves.

ilovereggae said:

I wonder if it has to do with the binning of the diodes. maybe the high output ones are the top quality and they know they can be driven harder to achieve same lm/w.

reason for thinking this is something I just noticed in the regular Eb3 datasheet page 10. color binning.
View attachment 4796637
it show B3 as the bin code for the regular Gen3. that is part of the part number. but the gen3 HO end with D3. so I am thinking if everything else diode count, pcb material and thickness, connectors etc. its gotta be the diodes themselves.

Click to expand...

That's possible. They could also have added more copper to the pcb?