Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Another genius comment from the guy who said that mite eggs are in seeds...I don't mean any disrespect to anyone but so many people "think" they can just spray the plant with bug killer and get rid of 'em. Don't use anything but water or res water on the plant and use the poison or whatever on the grow-"op".
How about some of you begin to understand that all these "works pretty good - keep attacking" things like any contact killer- including pyth and pyreth, neem, soap based killers or just about everything out there.....does not kill every mite or every stage of mite.....
Why do you have to use some 2-3 times "X" days apart? BECAUSE it did NOT kill the eggs or the larva or you missed some...
Now what does that matter? They become IMMUNE or TOLERANT to the method you attack with....You are creating SUPER mites!
You will fight this war on down the line till you break down and at some point or on another occurring bad infestation. You actually try Forbid or Avid.......
Forbid works the best - 100% of the time (you must buy real Forbid and mix and apply correctly)
Forbid is not systemic!
Here is something from the Chattanooga Rose Society :
Forbid 4F, and its active ingredient is spiromesifin, a tetronic acid, which blocks fat synthesis so the mites dry out and die. This mode of activity, inhibiting lipid biosynthesis thus causing dessication (i.e., drying-out), is virtually the same as that of soaps and oils. That is, the MOA for Forbid 4F can be considered, for the sake of simplicity, to be MOA 6 as defined in papers elsewhere on this website, and in articles appearing in the Rose Society’s newsletter, Basal Breaks. This is great because MOA 6 has little or no potential for the development of resistance – an analogy[1] would be a flamethrower: you may miss some of your targets, but when they return they’ll be no less vulnerable to the flame.
Another feature of Forbid 4F is that, like Avid, it is translaminar. The active ingredient, spiromesifin, while not systemic (i.e., it does not move through the plant’s vascular system like, for example, Merit does), is absorbed by the plant’s leaves and will move from the tops of the leaves to the bottoms where the mites feed. This ability to move from the tops to bottoms of leaves significantly reduces the tedium of the spray process – while care should still be taken to cover the entire bush, rigorous spraying of the undersides of leaves should not be required. Moreover, according to Bayer, Forbid 4F controls mites at all life stages and offers an excellent residual of four to eight weeks for mites.
The label for Forbid 4F indicates its toxicity rating is CAUTION (be aware that the Avid label carries a WARNING designation). The label further specifies a usage rate of 2 to 4 fluid ounces per 100 gallons of spray. This equates to 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of spray – Bayer recommends, however, using the lower rate.
Now the first person to come back and give me the "But it's poison and can harm us" shit! NEEDS to google up a toxicology report and,,,,,,,,,screw that here's several here!
http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/registration/ais/publicreports/5858.pdf
http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/insect-mite/propetamphos-zetacyperm/spiromesifen/spiromesifen_1206.pdf
http://nepis.epa.gov/Exe/ZyNET.exe/P1007KNQ.TXT?ZyActionD=ZyDocument&Client=EPA&Index=2006+Thru+2010&Docs=&Query=&Time=&EndTime=&SearchMethod=1&TocRestrict=n&Toc=&TocEntry=&QField=&QFieldYear=&QFieldMonth=&QFieldDay=&IntQFieldOp=0&ExtQFieldOp=0&XmlQuery=&File=D:\zyfiles\Index Data\06thru10\Txt\00000018\P1007KNQ.txt&User=ANONYMOUS&Password=anonymous&SortMethod=h|-&MaximumDocuments=1&FuzzyDegree=0&ImageQuality=r75g8/r75g8/x150y150g16/i425&Display=p|f&DefSeekPage=x&SearchBack=ZyActionL&Back=ZyActionS&BackDesc=Results page&MaximumPages=1&ZyEntry=1&SeekPage=x&ZyPURL
Don't like mites and you want to be done with them the first time every time?
Forbid 4F
Now bomb the grow area and be sure to spray a GOOD contact killer ON the media surface of every pot.
BOOM, DONE!
This works for me and I have been mite free now for (Be sure to treat any in-coming clones like I said earlier) 9 YEARS!
If you are in a house....Your problems can continue because the little buggers will travel through house vents! The idea of a sealed grow is now obvious.....
If it didn't work for you - you didn't treat the grow or you have clear access to other areas by house vents etc. not being sealed, or you did not get real Forbid/you did it wrong.
You still don't like it - don't use it!
But don't come back on here and tell me how wrong I am for my choice!!
Doc