Can I kill spider mites with dry ice (CO2) ?

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I don't mean any disrespect to anyone but so many people "think" they can just spray the plant with bug killer and get rid of 'em. Don't use anything but water or res water on the plant and use the poison or whatever on the grow-"op".
Another genius comment from the guy who said that mite eggs are in seeds...

How about some of you begin to understand that all these "works pretty good - keep attacking" things like any contact killer- including pyth and pyreth, neem, soap based killers or just about everything out there.....does not kill every mite or every stage of mite.....
Why do you have to use some 2-3 times "X" days apart? BECAUSE it did NOT kill the eggs or the larva or you missed some...
Now what does that matter? They become IMMUNE or TOLERANT to the method you attack with....You are creating SUPER mites!
You will fight this war on down the line till you break down and at some point or on another occurring bad infestation. You actually try Forbid or Avid.......
Forbid works the best - 100% of the time (you must buy real Forbid and mix and apply correctly)
Forbid is not systemic!

Here is something from the Chattanooga Rose Society :
Forbid 4F, and its active ingredient is spiromesifin, a tetronic acid, which blocks fat synthesis so the mites dry out and die. This mode of activity, inhibiting lipid biosynthesis thus causing dessication (i.e., drying-out), is virtually the same as that of soaps and oils. That is, the MOA for Forbid 4F can be considered, for the sake of simplicity, to be MOA 6 as defined in papers elsewhere on this website, and in articles appearing in the Rose Society’s newsletter, Basal Breaks. This is great because MOA 6 has little or no potential for the development of resistance – an analogy[1] would be a flamethrower: you may miss some of your targets, but when they return they’ll be no less vulnerable to the flame.

Another feature of Forbid 4F is that, like Avid, it is translaminar. The active ingredient, spiromesifin, while not systemic (i.e., it does not move through the plant’s vascular system like, for example, Merit does), is absorbed by the plant’s leaves and will move from the tops of the leaves to the bottoms where the mites feed. This ability to move from the tops to bottoms of leaves significantly reduces the tedium of the spray process – while care should still be taken to cover the entire bush, rigorous spraying of the undersides of leaves should not be required. Moreover, according to Bayer, Forbid 4F controls mites at all life stages and offers an excellent residual of four to eight weeks for mites.

The label for Forbid 4F indicates its toxicity rating is CAUTION (be aware that the Avid label carries a WARNING designation). The label further specifies a usage rate of 2 to 4 fluid ounces per 100 gallons of spray. This equates to 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of spray – Bayer recommends, however, using the lower rate.

Now the first person to come back and give me the "But it's poison and can harm us" shit! NEEDS to google up a toxicology report and,,,,,,,,,screw that here's several here!

http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/registration/ais/publicreports/5858.pdf

http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/insect-mite/propetamphos-zetacyperm/spiromesifen/spiromesifen_1206.pdf

http://nepis.epa.gov/Exe/ZyNET.exe/P1007KNQ.TXT?ZyActionD=ZyDocument&Client=EPA&Index=2006+Thru+2010&Docs=&Query=&Time=&EndTime=&SearchMethod=1&TocRestrict=n&Toc=&TocEntry=&QField=&QFieldYear=&QFieldMonth=&QFieldDay=&IntQFieldOp=0&ExtQFieldOp=0&XmlQuery=&File=D:\zyfiles\Index Data\06thru10\Txt\00000018\P1007KNQ.txt&User=ANONYMOUS&Password=anonymous&SortMethod=h|-&MaximumDocuments=1&FuzzyDegree=0&ImageQuality=r75g8/r75g8/x150y150g16/i425&Display=p|f&DefSeekPage=x&SearchBack=ZyActionL&Back=ZyActionS&BackDesc=Results page&MaximumPages=1&ZyEntry=1&SeekPage=x&ZyPURL

Don't like mites and you want to be done with them the first time every time?
Forbid 4F
Now bomb the grow area and be sure to spray a GOOD contact killer ON the media surface of every pot.

BOOM, DONE!

This works for me and I have been mite free now for (Be sure to treat any in-coming clones like I said earlier) 9 YEARS!
If you are in a house....Your problems can continue because the little buggers will travel through house vents! The idea of a sealed grow is now obvious.....

If it didn't work for you - you didn't treat the grow or you have clear access to other areas by house vents etc. not being sealed, or you did not get real Forbid/you did it wrong.

You still don't like it - don't use it!
But don't come back on here and tell me how wrong I am for my choice!!

Doc
 

Flagg420

Well-Known Member
If you have the $, get the forbid, its brutally effective, if not, get some azamax, and a hand pump sprayer, hit the plants w/ a strong sprayed mist, literally blasting eggs, webs, and bugs OFF the leaves (I like to go leaf by leaf against my palm and power wash the fuckers...

wait 3 days... do it again.

Wait 3 days, hit it with either some safer 3-in-1, or Einstein/neem oil... Use this last, its much more a preventative than a solution....

Treat the whole room as well, again, in intervals so fresh eggs are hatched n killed b4 reproducing.

If at all possible, get your temps DOWN. Chill the room to the 60's and the plants will survive the cold, but the bugs reproduction slows way down. If you have pets/carpet near the grow..... get used to this, or get rid of the pests host....

Forbid kills mites and eggs, so if you are a little on the lazy/busy side, I would spend the $ n go that route....
 

bird mcbride

Well-Known Member
My first pump up sprayer was fashioned from an old pump up fire extinguisher:) I used it until the pump wore completely out. I can just imagine a spidermite traveling through miles of frozen tundra just to frequent my grow-op.
 

jaytea

Active Member
Thanks everybody ... I'm sure 4bid works wonders but I am hesitant to use anything like that on my grow. So to update , I did another spray and wipe today but this time I added some cayenne pepper and peppermint oil to my neem/soap concoction in my pump sprayer ... I let them dry real good under a box fan for about an hour and then inspected them with a jewelers loop and the good news is I couldn't find one single living spider mite. They are all dead and I looked good too , I inspected the undersides of at least a few dozen leaves on each plant and didn't find one single living mite... I saw lots of dead ones and lots of eggs .. So the fight is not over yet .. I'm gonna spray again in 3 more days and then again 3 days after that. I think I am winning the battle .... though I only have 2 plants so it's not like I have a whole lot of plants to deal with . I can't imagine facing this challenge with more than a few plants.
 

jellero

Well-Known Member
you can lay the pots on their side to spray under leaves, just roll it slowly as you spray. thing is with these little bastards is that the females lay about 200 eggs each that hatch in a week so spray well every few days.
i am having a problem with my adult charlottes web. i just have the one plus a tiny clone left after keeping the strain going two years now. i pollinated it with afghani which i did with one that was outside and froze... so, this plant is very important. i don't see any bugs. the soil is mix from the greenhouse though and i did have fungus flies. i took a bucket and trowel down to the river and got sand which i put on top of pot soil and set the pot in sand. i have not seen a fly since. can anyone tell what is going on with plant? droopy leaves curled under. i tend to under water so gave it about 12 oz. drink yesterday, no change. i don't use "nutes". some leaves are yellowing. f. flies might stll be munching on the roots i suppose. anyone? johnimage.jpeg
 

jellero

Well-Known Member
i forgot to remind you not to order from dominos... as high school kids we did some really gross things. i don't like to eat out since.

forgot to mention that these mites like it hot and dry so do the opposite. i buy window cleaner at walmart for a buck and use the spray bottles for plants. plain water sprayed on a couple times a day in a cool place will at least make them think of moving away. you can kill the plant with treatment though. chemicals build up in the soil.
 

jaytea

Active Member
i forgot to remind you not to order from dominos... as high school kids we did some really gross things. i don't like to eat out since.

forgot to mention that these mites like it hot and dry so do the opposite. i buy window cleaner at walmart for a buck and use the spray bottles for plants. plain water sprayed on a couple times a day in a cool place will at least make them think of moving away. you can kill the plant with treatment though. chemicals build up in the soil.
Thanks , I put one of those portable AC units in the grow space today and got the temp on 65 which is as low as it goes ... Was trying to figure out a way to add humidity and was thinking of putting one of those cold vapor humidifiers in there. I think I got the mites on the ropes ... Just got to be aggressive with them
 

smegpot

Well-Known Member
Its times like these when i'm glad I have a contained concrete space with separate ventilation and run hydro. I mix muriatic acid and hit the grow space just before any new cycle or transitioning to flower (removing plants and any thing else that needs to live, lol) with a pressure washer, never had any infestations or mold issues, even with a dog that sniffs around the plants every once in a while.

Nothing beats an acid pressure wash for prevention, fleas, mites, moths, molds...super bugs or not, they die.

Let the room air out for 24/48 hours and your good to go, environmentally friendly too.

Over kill....maybe.
Anal....absolutely.
Peace of mind = priceless.

 

Whodatt

Well-Known Member
you can lay the pots on their side to spray under leaves, just roll it slowly as you spray. thing is with these little bastards is that the females lay about 200 eggs each that hatch in a week so spray well every few days.
i am having a problem with my adult charlottes web. i just have the one plus a tiny clone left after keeping the strain going two years now. i pollinated it with afghani which i did with one that was outside and froze... so, this plant is very important. i don't see any bugs. the soil is mix from the greenhouse though and i did have fungus flies. i took a bucket and trowel down to the river and got sand which i put on top of pot soil and set the pot in sand. i have not seen a fly since. can anyone tell what is going on with plant? droopy leaves curled under. i tend to under water so gave it about 12 oz. drink yesterday, no change. i don't use "nutes". some leaves are yellowing. f. flies might stll be munching on the roots i suppose. anyone? johnView attachment 3540579
I would get some nuke em. Follow the instructions. I have seen broad mites and two spotted mites do similar things to plants. Hope that helps.
 

TheFuture

Well-Known Member
Ive used CO2 in 2000ppm concentrations and all it did was cost me a lot of money.

1) Get your temperature under 76. Get your Humidity under 60%.
2) Apply Azamax/Azatrol/Neem oil to your root zone in any stage. Apply same as a foliar, ONLY in the dark, ONLY in vegetative stage. This is an insect Growth Regulator and crucial to any Integrated Pest Management scheme.
3) 7 days later Apply a Pyrethrin + Synergist such as Evergreen MGK 60-6 with Piperonyl butoxide. (This is organic OMRI approved and safe.) Direct kill mode of action
4) Follow up with regular spraying any residual mites with an essential oil such as Peppermint, Clove, or Rosemary. Avoid White Thyme as it induces seeds.
5) 14 days elapsed repeat the process. Add Hot Shot pest strips every so often for a good clean kill but remember the gases they give off are not safe for humans and animals.

Once you have mites, you have them. They will never be gone.
 

jellero

Well-Known Member
Ive used CO2 in 2000ppm concentrations and all it did was cost me a lot of money.

1) Get your temperature under 76. Get your Humidity under 60%.
2) Apply Azamax/Azatrol/Neem oil to your root zone in any stage. Apply same as a foliar, ONLY in the dark, ONLY in vegetative stage. This is an insect Growth Regulator and crucial to any Integrated Pest Management scheme.
3) 7 days later Apply a Pyrethrin + Synergist such as Evergreen MGK 60-6 with Piperonyl butoxide. (This is organic OMRI approved and safe.) Direct kill mode of action
4) Follow up with regular spraying any residual mites with an essential oil such as Peppermint, Clove, or Rosemary. Avoid White Thyme as it induces seeds.
5) 14 days elapsed repeat the process. Add Hot Shot pest strips every so often for a good clean kill but remember the gases they give off are not safe for humans and animals.

Once you have mites, you have them. They will never be gone.
 

jellero

Well-Known Member
i haven't seen any evidence of mites. i'm lucky to get to 70 degrees but the plant is in a southern window. the edges of the leaves on little cutting are drying. ??
 

TheFuture

Well-Known Member
Is that soil ultra sandy? Is it heavy and water logged? I know it cannot really breathe much in that pot by the looks. Maybe you need to let it dry out or run some hydrogen peroxide through to give the roots some air.
 

JungleTime

Well-Known Member
Honestly just buy the forbid for 200 dollars. Dont fk with bugs man. I just had a russet mite outbreak and instantly bought forbid. Forbid kills everything and will continue to kill EVERYTHING for approximately 45 days. Spray or dip clones when you get them and then spray right before flower and you wont have bugs.
 

jellero

Well-Known Member
Thanks , I put one of those portable AC units in the grow space today and got the temp on 65 which is as low as it goes ... Was trying to figure out a way to add humidity and was thinking of putting one of those cold vapor humidifiers in there. I think I got the mites on the ropes ... Just got to be aggressive with them
get an evaporative cooler. a/c pulls moisture out of the air, an evap cooler adds moisture and makes it hard for small bugs to fly and land gracefully. it blows the gnats or whatever into the screen of the door. makes plants stronger too blowing on them. i have a 3500 cfs set on low for a 12'/16' greenhouse. the plants sway all day in the moist breeze. spider mites cannot set up webs when it is on. put the a/c in your shop or house...
 

jaytea

Active Member
get an evaporative cooler. a/c pulls moisture out of the air, an evap cooler adds moisture and makes it hard for small bugs to fly and land gracefully. it blows the gnats or whatever into the screen of the door. makes plants stronger too blowing on them. i have a 3500 cfs set on low for a 12'/16' greenhouse. the plants sway all day in the moist breeze. spider mites cannot set up webs when it is on. put the a/c in your shop or house...
I got only 2 plants and trying to avoid spending more on my grow then what it cost to just go buy the shit for 8 dollars a gram at the local shop. So far all the advice I have gotten tells me to spend almost a thousand bucks or more on 2 freaking plants. I still have not gotten a valid answer as to why CO2 will not work.
 

Groitco

New Member
PUREAG PEST CONTROL

PureAg Pest Control immediately impacts the exoskeleton structure of the pest upon contact by disrupting the molecular structure of the chitin and other protein substances that protect the insect. Unlike standard insecticides, no built-in resistance can be developed by the targeted insects because PureAg Pest Control does not act on the nervous system, it acts on the respiratory system.
Apply every 3 days 4 times use 2 oz to gallon we 100% success rate both outdoor and indoor and it's Organic approved for Marijana in Colorado Washington submitted to Oregon
 

Attachments

*BUDS

Well-Known Member
Yes it works very well. You need it at about 100,000 PPM for an hour ,it will cost you a lot more if you dont do it.
Also ive found that any spidermite killer with DICOFOL wipes them out for good, no sign of them after spraying on plants and around the room.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Ive used CO2 in 2000ppm concentrations and all it did was cost me a lot of money.

1) Get your temperature under 76. Get your Humidity under 60%.
2) Apply Azamax/Azatrol/Neem oil to your root zone in any stage. Apply same as a foliar, ONLY in the dark, ONLY in vegetative stage. This is an insect Growth Regulator and crucial to any Integrated Pest Management scheme.
3) 7 days later Apply a Pyrethrin + Synergist such as Evergreen MGK 60-6 with Piperonyl butoxide. (This is organic OMRI approved and safe.) Direct kill mode of action
4) Follow up with regular spraying any residual mites with an essential oil such as Peppermint, Clove, or Rosemary. Avoid White Thyme as it induces seeds.
5) 14 days elapsed repeat the process. Add Hot Shot pest strips every so often for a good clean kill but remember the gases they give off are not safe for humans and animals.

Once you have mites, you have them. They will never be gone.[/QUOTE]

This is one of the biggest lines of BULL SHIT I have heard about mites!

I've had mites.....I got rid of them! I have not had them back in YEARS!

Doc
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
PUREAG PEST CONTROL

PureAg Pest Control immediately impacts the exoskeleton structure of the pest upon contact by disrupting the molecular structure of the chitin and other protein substances that protect the insect. Unlike standard insecticides, no built-in resistance can be developed by the targeted insects because PureAg Pest Control does not act on the nervous system, it acts on the respiratory system.
Apply every 3 days 4 times use 2 oz to gallon we 100% success rate both outdoor and indoor and it's Organic approved for Marijana in Colorado Washington submitted to Oregon
SHILL! SHILL !!

SHILL FOR PRODUCT!!!!

SHILL ALERT!
 
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