Cant find what is wrong

mistergrafik

Well-Known Member
I think there is always going to be transplant shock, just sometimes it is so minor you don't notice it. I usually see mine take a few hours to perk up after transplant, but I still call that shock. Once the roots adjust they will take up the nutrients better and you'll be fine.
I think of it as shifting gears. Some people are smooth and some people give you whiplash. It takes a bit of finesse
 

mistergrafik

Well-Known Member
These are my 2 mothers I just watered them with straight RO water with ph of 5.8 hoping it fixes what ever is wrong. It is so hard to tell what is wrong cause all show different signs and are all getting the same feeding so I can understand how the Lucas formula makes sense to use
The mothers look like you might be cloning stress, homie!
 

mistergrafik

Well-Known Member
I mean shit.. I don't think I would consider those mother plants. They should be the healthiest of all. I could be wrong though I mainly grow blueberries
 

Fultron

Member
I mean shit.. I don't think I would consider those mother plants. They should be the healthiest of all. I could be wrong though I mainly grow blueberries
I have already done my cloning off them I going to put them in flower once they heal up a bit
 

Fultron

Member
You should be filling to a decent height otherwise you're limiting the amount of roots you can actually have. You want to be filling 2/3 of the depth of the table, and yes, using the overflow to regulate, that's what it's there for.

No, 4 hours wont drown them.
So we have flooded for an hour now and my ppm went from 10 to 80 my ph went from 5.9 to 6.7 . Should I drain table and balance my ph and then flood again
 

HighFlow

Active Member
You don't need to drain it. I guess you're using RO and it's a lot of water to keep replacing.. but you absolutely need to keep pH balancing the water back to 6.0 so that the elements are mobile, It's good that your pH and ppm are rising on the flush.. it means it's working.
 

HighFlow

Active Member
Well if you have salt buildup you might run something like floraklean, clearex, final flush or something to help break down the salts, other wise I would just cut back on the ppms and continue as you have. Continuously check PH and PPMs and make sure all other environmental factors are in check, invest in the infrared thermometer and make sure leaf temps are 85, usually LEDs only raise surface temp a few degrees so lower 80 ambient is about right. Look into VPD (vapor pressure deficit) and follow the chart.
I hadn't thought about using a flushing agent. That could be a good shout, though I don't know enough about them. Something to get the immobile, mobile again.. as that's surely the problem. I have to disagree with dropping ppm and continue as is though.. his plants look in poor health at every stage.. something is wrong.. and I'm almost certain it isn't the overall concentration of salts, but the ratio.
 

mistergrafik

Well-Known Member
I hadn't thought about using a flushing agent. That could be a good shout, though I don't know enough about them. Something to get the immobile, mobile again.. as that's surely the problem. I have to disagree with dropping ppm and continue as is though.. his plants look in poor health at every stage.. something is wrong.. and I'm almost certain it isn't the concentration, but the ratio.
LOOK AT THE MOTHER PLANTS. Does no one else see those things

** edit page 3 second post
 

HighFlow

Active Member
LOOK AT THE MOTHER PLANTS. Does no one else see those things

** edit page 3 second post
Yes.. that's the point..

I think the point you are trying to make is that sickly mothers make sickly cuttings, which is true enough, but the fact is...his plants are deficient,in every stage of the grow. The problem with the cuttings isn't that they were taken from unhealthy mothers.. it's that the feed they are receiving.. throughout every stage of their life cycle, is wrong.

EDIT: you can take an unhealthy mother on an incorrect feed schedule, and take a cut off it, and feed it correctly, and shock aside, they will be wildly different plants.
 

mistergrafik

Well-Known Member
Yes.. that's the point..

I think the point you are trying to make is that sickly mothers make sickly cuttings, which is true enough, but the fact is...his plants are deficient,in every stage of the grow. The problem with the cuttings isn't that they were taken from unhealthy mothers.. it's that the feed they are receiving.. throughout every stage of their life cycle, is wrong.
So you're working backwards. How can you Undo this?

** edit I'm not hating just curious as to how you can really un-do that after placing them in a completely different environment and then messing their feed more
 

DaFreak

Well-Known Member
I skipped ahead, I have never done ebb&flow, but after reading to the point where the overflow is mentioned I can't help but wonder if the real problem is that by not using it you caused a salt built-up. In other words, you have no problem with what you are feeding them as far as ppm and pH, but rather how you are feeding them.
 

mistergrafik

Well-Known Member
I skipped ahead, I have never done ebb&flow, but after reading to the point where the overflow is mentioned I can't help but wonder if the real problem is that by not using it you caused a salt built-up. In other words, you have no problem with what you are feeding them as far as ppm and pH, but rather how you are feeding them.
I still blame the mothers being unhealthy to clone. Also - if you have a seedling in there and you're running 600 PPM on a 500 PPM chart of course it's going to burn
 

boybelue

Well-Known Member
Probably the hydroton raising the ph out of range, I’ve had new hydroton that I just did a quick rinse raise the ph and kill a young teen before I realized what was going on. As for the feeding schedule/recipe you posted I see no problem with that, I use a similar recipe with no problem. But I do believe you need to dilute that down until you see the new growth straighten out and lighten up in color a bit. Nutrient strength for LEDs is less than what most folks are use to with other light sources. I start my ph at 5.5 and let it swing to 6.5 so I hit all the absorption range, 5.8 to 6.3 is fine though. With your ph swinging so high I would say your hydroton needs flushing with a lower ph, at least 5.5, if you have your overflow set where you can submerge your hydroton without any floating I would just let the pump run recirculating the water and ck ph periodically and adjust as necessary until you get it to stay at a suitable range. It doesn’t matter what the plants look like now when you hit the sweet spot with everything, the plants will recover rapidly.
 

Fultron

Member
Probably the hydroton raising the ph out of range, I’ve had new hydroton that I just did a quick rinse raise the ph and kill a young teen before I realized what was going on. As for the feeding schedule/recipe you posted I see no problem with that, I use a similar recipe with no problem. But I do believe you need to dilute that down until you see the new growth straighten out and lighten up in color a bit. Nutrient strength for LEDs is less than what most folks are use to with other light sources. I start my ph at 5.5 and let it swing to 6.5 so I hit all the absorption range, 5.8 to 6.3 is fine though. With your ph swinging so high I would say your hydroton needs flushing with a lower ph, at least 5.5, if you have your overflow set where you can submerge your hydroton without any floating I would just let the pump run recirculating the water and ck ph periodically and adjust as necessary until you get it to stay at a suitable range. It doesn’t matter what the plants look like now when you hit the sweet spot with everything, the plants will recover rapidly.
So u think the ph is to high cause of the clay ?
 

boybelue

Well-Known Member
When I say swing from 5.5 to 6.5 that’s over a weeks time, if it jumps up that quick something is wrong
 
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