DIY Par Meter, $30-$45

visajoe1

Well-Known Member
In the spirit of all this DIY cob stuff I apparently fell into, I became curious what else I could do. Google to the rescue. I found this gem of a post on another forum (non growing forum) by a poster named Hoppy.

Take a gander and let me know what you think. I ordered the lux meter and upgraded photodiode, and a local paint store may have the gel filters i need. If not, I'll order from ebay for $8. I'll keep you posted next week after things arrive and I get it together.

Enjoy bongsmilie

Cheapest PAR Meter DIY
A PAR meter is nice to have, but, for most of us, there is no way to justify paying $350 for one, or even $150. This caused me to design and make a lot of DIY PAR meters that I sold for $50-$60 on the For Sale forum. But, even that is more than many people want to spend for something that is nice to have, but far from essential. Since I am also bored with making those PAR meters, I stopped, and decided to see just how cheaply I can make one that is usable for our planted tank purposes.

Amazon, Ebay, and a few other internet shopping sites sell Lux meters from China, specifically the LX1010B model, which looks like a PAR meter, and does exactly the same thing, but reads out in Lux units instead of PAR units, and is not waterproof, so it can't be dunked in an aquarium. But, it is cheap - as cheap as $13.50 on Ebay, but rarely more than $15, with shipping included in the price. That should be affordable for almost anyone with a planted tank.

The really ghetto way to make one of these Lux meters work as a non-waterproof PAR meter is simply use filters to adjust the sensitivity of the photodiode it uses, so the readout will be the same as a PAR meter.

This is the LX1010B Lux Meter (Don't even think of using the ones that are red, and that have the most listings on Ebay - I have not been able to make one of them work for this.)

If you remove the two screws on the back of the sensor module, you get this:

The little green glass square is the built-in filter that makes the photodiode read out in Lux units. The spectral response of this diode/filter combination is essentially green light, around 550 nm wave length. The numbers it gives on the read-out module are about 60-80 times as much as the equivalent PAR numbers. To shift the spectral response a bit away from green and make it a little bit wider in response you can use Rosco gel filters: http://www.rosco.com/filters/roscolux.cfm If you have a local dealer for Rosco filters you can get a free sample book of almost all of their filters, in roughly 1 1/2" x 3 1/4" pieces. Or, you can often buy a sample book on Ebay at a reasonable price. Using a Rosco #4730 Magenta and a #98 Grey, taped over the opening to the photodiode, makes the readings very close to those a PAR meter would give.

The spectral response of this "ghetto PAR meter" is:

The green curve is the basic Lux Meter response, and the pink line is the response with the filters. You can see this doesn't even come close to matching the response of the Apogee Quantum PAR meter, the black curve, but, as long as you use it just for typical fluorescent or LED aquarium lights, it is reasonably accurate. It reads "PAR" with the range selector on the meter read-out set at the middle, 20,000 range.
The calibration of the meter, compared to a Quantum meter is:


There is no way to improve the spectral response if the original photodiode is used, but that little diode is almost identical to an easy to obtain Excelitas VTB8441BH photodiode.

Remove the two screws that hold the green filter and cap on the sensor, and you see this. Remove the one screw holding the diode circuit board and you get this:

The Excelitas diode has the same lead spacing and size, so you can remove the original diode, melting the solder and/or cutting the leads next to the board, and prying it out. Now, you can put the Excelitas diode in its place and solder the cable wires to the leads - red wire to the side marked with a "+" on top of the diode.


Now, you have a "Lux" meter with a diode having a wider spectral response, which can be modified with filters to make it come closer to the Quantum PAR meter response.


After hours of calculations and testing I found this combination works very well:
2 - Rosco #4815 Pink
1 - Rosco #4930 Lavender
3 - Rosco #102 Diffuser
1 - Rosco #111 Diffuser

That is the combination giving the spectral response shown above.
 

visajoe1

Well-Known Member
I received all the items and began tinkering with the lux meter today per the above instructions. The entire process took less than 20 minutes. However, the sample pack of Rosco gel filters seems to have been updated since the OP put it up in 2013. None of the numbers matched, and only the Lavender matched by name. I dont think its going to matter though and so I removed them.

Take a look below and let me know what you think?!

-PAR wavelengths mostly fall in between 400-700nm. This is the usable spectrum's for our plants.


-The replacement diode in the instructions above measures spectrum's from 330-720nm per manufacturer site. That range is about 22% larger than we need, so our readings will be high.
-So I can subtract 20% from my reading to get me closer to, what should be, our PAR rating



I found the below T5HO PAR rating chart to compare against with my T5HO. I couldn't find any PAR ratings for my cobs.






I would rate my reflector on the poor end. Here are my PAR ratings WITH 20% correction factor
2"= 352
5"= 184
10"= 99




P1250008.JPG P1250010.JPG P1250011.JPG

P1250009.JPG
I think I'm definitely in the ball park with this. Close enough to set lights and dial down/up drivers without completely guessing. Total cost was about $40 including the not needed gel filters. You should be able to build this for $30, shipped.

http://www.newark.com/excelitas-tech/vtb8441bh/diode-photo-580nm-50/dp/79K2473

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XLX1010B+Lux+Meter.TRS0&_nkw=LX1010B+Lux+Meter&_sacat=0
 

newguy41410

Well-Known Member
I received all the items and began tinkering with the lux meter today per the above instructions. The entire process took less than 20 minutes. However, the sample pack of Rosco gel filters seems to have been updated since the OP put it up in 2013. None of the numbers matched, and only the Lavender matched by name. I dont think its going to matter though and so I removed them.

Take a look below and let me know what you think?!

-PAR wavelengths mostly fall in between 400-700nm. This is the usable spectrum's for our plants.


-The replacement diode in the instructions above measures spectrum's from 330-720nm per manufacturer site. That range is about 22% larger than we need, so our readings will be high.
-So I can subtract 20% from my reading to get me closer to, what should be, our PAR rating



I found the below T5HO PAR rating chart to compare against with my T5HO. I couldn't find any PAR ratings for my cobs.






I would rate my reflector on the poor end. Here are my PAR ratings WITH 20% correction factor
2"= 352
5"= 184
10"= 99




View attachment 3885264 View attachment 3885267 View attachment 3885268

View attachment 3885266
I think I'm definitely in the ball park with this. Close enough to set lights and dial down/up drivers without completely guessing. Total cost was about $40 including the not needed gel filters. You should be able to build this for $30, shipped.

http://www.newark.com/excelitas-tech/vtb8441bh/diode-photo-580nm-50/dp/79K2473

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XLX1010B+Lux+Meter.TRS0&_nkw=LX1010B+Lux+Meter&_sacat=0
so what filters did you end up using since the filter numbers dont match anymore? Where can I find them? I went on rosco.com to search for places closest to me and theres only two within 50 miles. One is an event planner company so i doubt they sell those filters right? The other one is a stage & lighting company and i think they have a storefront. Do I call them and ask them if they have the Rosco Gel Filter Sample Pack or something? Please let me know what filters you used and where to find them since OPs suggestion is apparently obsolete?
 

ziggydb

Active Member
Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Just ordered a photocell to give it a try.

Newguy- Sounds like he didn't end up using filters.w
 

visajoe1

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, glad to have a couple other curious folks along. I found some more information last night, soo much to go through. The OP for the above made another post. It lasted for 5 years! All about DIY par meter, it got much more involved than we need, but I know some more answers are in there for us. I'll keep digging, but feel free to scope it out, it would be great if we can come up with a sticky post for a DIY par meter under $50, with accuracy.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20-diy/120109-diy-par-meter-yeah-you-heard-me.html
and
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20-diy/823705-diy-par-meter-2015-version.html
 

visajoe1

Well-Known Member
so what filters did you end up using since the filter numbers dont match anymore? Where can I find them? I went on rosco.com to search for places closest to me and theres only two within 50 miles. One is an event planner company so i doubt they sell those filters right? The other one is a stage & lighting company and i think they have a storefront. Do I call them and ask them if they have the Rosco Gel Filter Sample Pack or something? Please let me know what filters you used and where to find them since OPs suggestion is apparently obsolete?

I bought the filters on ebay, for $8, search for Rosco gel filter. They are pretty cool I think. We may still find a use for them
 

wietefras

Well-Known Member
I was tempted to built one of these too after reading the original posts a while ago, but I'd be worried about calibration.

Unless I'd have access to an actual PAR meter to calibrate and correct the DIY par meter, I'd rather just use the lux meter and divide the lumen value by 69 or something (depending on lumen-par conversion factor for the specific light).

Although a (cheap) lux meter probably doesn't use the exact lumen CIE curve so the correction factor might be a little off, but it's just an indication anyway.
 

ziggydb

Active Member
Ya i already have a lux meter so a $10 shipped photocell can only make it better. Haha at least it sounds good
 

ziggydb

Active Member
Visa Joe - Did you keep the blue filter in that sat on top of the old cell in the black cover? For a quick check of a shop light it was a difference of 120 without and 100 with. Will test my cobs tonight.
 

brazzik25

Well-Known Member
[QUOTE = "visajoe1, сообщение: 13329075, член: 958958"] Я купил фильтры на Ebay, за $ 8, поиск фильтра гель Rosco. Они очень здорово, я думаю. Мы по-прежнему могут найти применение для них [/ QUOTE]
Показать окончательную версию устройства, а также сравнение с нормальным метром PAR.
 

newguy41410

Well-Known Member
im looking for a way to measure my COB LEDs par. will this work enough to help me adjust my height to where it should be?
 

wietefras

Well-Known Member
The lux meter itself would work fine for that purpose too. No adjustment needed.

You only need to measure relative differences and unless you have different color COBs, a lux meter works fine for that.

You could even figure out the lux to PPFD conversion factor for your COBs and divide the lux value by that to get a PPFD estimate. It won't be super accurate, but neither will a DIY PAR meter be really accurate. It doesn't have to be super accurate anyway.
 

newguy41410

Well-Known Member
h
The lux meter itself would work fine for that purpose too. No adjustment needed.

You only need to measure relative differences and unless you have different color COBs, a lux meter works fine for that.

You could even figure out the lux to PPFD conversion factor for your COBs and divide the lux value by that to get a PPFD estimate. It won't be super accurate, but neither will a DIY PAR meter be really accurate. It doesn't have to be super accurate anyway.
if i get the lux meter what would you recommend i do to figure out what is too close and what is too far? im afraid my COBs might be too close to my canopy. It would help if i could put a number to what is too close or too far. would i read lumens with the lux meter and be able to determine that a specific lumen reading would be too intense for my COB's distance?
 

wietefras

Well-Known Member
h

if i get the lux meter what would you recommend i do to figure out what is too close and what is too far? im afraid my COBs might be too close to my canopy. It would help if i could put a number to what is too close or too far. would i read lumens with the lux meter and be able to determine that a specific lumen reading would be too intense for my COB's distance?
It depends on your COBs. If they are 80CRI 3000K COBs then dividing the lux by 70 would give you an estimate of the PPFD. If it's a 90CRI 3000K Citizen COB then dividing by 60 would give you an estimate.

Or look in this thread for some more specific conversion numbers: https://www.rollitup.org/t/par-multiplier-thread.928907/page-2#post-13196257

That lux meter you can use for finding a good uniformity. You shouldn't see too much difference between the darker areas and bright areas. If you see that then increase the height a little. Uniformity is really what you fix with the height. When you want less light overall, then it's better dim the COBs. Raising the lights to lose light would simply mean you'd be wasting light (electricity) on the walls.
 
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