Do NOT use Hydrogen Peroxide

FilthyFletch

FilthyFletch

Mr I Can Do That For Half
ok got ya. the valve is on the pump.The pumps I have have relief valve setup you can put on so instead of just like a 3/4 nipple sticking up from the punmp its a nipple with a valve that you can open or close to regulate the water pressure so most goes up the tubing but some goes out the valve keeping the water moving in the res. i will try to remember to get a picture for ya
 
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funnymunny11

Active Member
This could be the answer to all of my problems!!! I run a complete hydroponic system and it is going great... well except for one aspect: The pH in my cloner is always rising so my clones rarely ever root :(. I'm thinkin this is because of algae growth. Does that sound right? And is hydrogen peroxide gonna fix the problem without affecting my clones negatively?? I appreciate any help and your knowledge on this topic! Thankyou
 
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dbo24242

New Member
funnymunny11 said:
This could be the answer to all of my problems!!! I run a complete hydroponic system and it is going great... well except for one aspect: The pH in my cloner is always rising so my clones rarely ever root :(. I'm thinkin this is because of algae growth. Does that sound right? And is hydrogen peroxide gonna fix the problem without affecting my clones negatively?? I appreciate any help and your knowledge on this topic! Thankyou
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get proper pH buffers
 
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dbo24242

New Member
funnymunny11 said:
Considering the pH doesn't vary in my veg or flower res.... my pH tester shouldn't be the problem and either should calibration, wouldn't that make sense?
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um... yes... get proper pH buffers either way. a buffer is not a tester, its like pH up/down to adjust the pH. unless your plants are eating/drinking to change the pH the buffers will absolutely keep it where its supposed to be.
 
treefarmer

treefarmer

Active Member
Let me start by saying I think that’s its incredibly awesome that so many individuals desire so intensely to be successful as gardeners and at same time concerns greatly as these same individuals are willing to try just about anything they read or hear that makes claims of increased benefit. So to clear this specific issue up on I offer you this on Food Grade Hydrogen Peroxide H202 35% it is an excellent sanitizing agent for use in inert mediums like Rock Wool, CoCo Peat, Hydroton, Etc. 35%Food Grade is the only grade of H202 you want use. And the grade you will be to purchase without more attention then you desire. The stuff in the grocery and drug store is buffered with sulfuric acid and other non desirables that will kill your plants. Aside from its positive aerobic properties that oxidize the unwanted free radical’s in the garden it breaks down and decomposes into o2 oxygen which can create incredible growth enhancements when the o2 is released at the root zone and in the presence of nutrient rich solution at the proper PH. 35% H2o2 has a PH of 1 it will race right through your skin faster then you can wipe it off, moments later appearing as a white spot that begins to first itch then burn and it burns like a bee sting for a while then disappears completely. It is a potentially dangerous chemical that should be handled with respect and care only by those that understand the properties of the chemical completely. There are some common mistakes made by to many growers with H2o2 please allow me to ramble on around just a few 1) Posting the effectiveness of the chemical supplement in a specific application that has specific conditions under which the addition of the chemical is made, that fail to include of define the conditional parameters, for the uneducated reader! 2) One should never mix chemicals together that they do not fully understand the values of. IE the molecular composition of the element in which they are handling. That can always be found on The MSDS web site www.MSDS.com I suggest that all gardeners that mix fertilizers together into stock tanks visit this site and obtain the MSDS for there fertilizer, supplements and the components in them. This will not only spare you from accident and teach you the proper order for mixing fertilizer components it can make you a better more informed gardener that will begin to see through the fertilizer hype and provide awakenings into the problems gardeners experience and why. This site list chemicals, their incompatibilities, exposure limits, handling procedures, and accidental emergency response instructions. “There is nothing funny about the potential harm an unknowing reader can put themselves in as a result of there desire to succeed as a gardener” 3) Partially read gardeners with little to no chemistry knowledge or experience discover flubber in the garden and dub themselves an authority on it. How do you know a flubber dubber when you read one? They will be the ones not addressing the readers need for safety and education that the answer to there problem is to educate themselves further on the subject matter before taking anyone’s word on it, even further offering informational sites as references. Just because you had the notion to fly, would you jump into a plane and attempt taking off? Growers should always employ common sense when working with any chemical in the garden, and always prove ant theory or concept before taking the action as one of these allows for correction without loss. What works for some may not for others. Remember Hydroponics is an applied science that incorporates technique. Individual Technique is not the science! Believe me common sense is not change for a dollar! Never mix or store H202 with any of the following: Reducing agents, dirt, organics, wood paper, iron cooper, heavy metals, alloys or caustic substances such as ph up which is a common quagmire subscribed to the unknowing gardener when he checks his ph and its 3. 3) Adding H202 to any organic tank or fertilizer or Organic plant medium instantly kills off many of the beneficial microorganisms that are required for the production of available nutrients for the plant. Kill these your killing your plant! This applies to all organic fertilizers, so those of you that mix up a big fresh batch and toss in the h2o2 for that added kick just made me LOL 4)You should never mix concentrations greater then 120 ml per gallon of 35% food grade H2o2. This will equal to 4 ozs and a 3% solution suitable for cleaning only .A dilution of 15 to 30 mls per gallon can be used in the nutrient tank to create a solution of .39 to .78 % for application directly to the root zone. It is not the advice of this gardener to make any applications of this product without first obtaining a solid understanding of the use benefits and potentials both good and bad before commencing in such actions. H2o2 is acidic and works as also as ph down. So it can be added to the end volume of pure elemental nutrient solution to achieve the desired o2 ratio and PH at the same time this aspect of this chemical gives it twice the efficiency as a standard ph down 6) Using H2o2 all the time in is not suggested as your system and plants need to possess some immunity to the natural bacterial and viral pathogens present Constant use threatens the plants ability to defend itself naturally as it becomes reliant on you not to wage its battles for it,(look at the present state of antibiotics) this is not to mention the fact that it greatly increases the possibilities of breeding resistant strains anaerobic and potentially aerobic pathogens into evolution.( The dirtiest and most dangerous things come form the cleanest places) We don’t want to be breeding the next resistant cannabis blight simply because we were lazy in our gardening procedures. And relied on chemicals to solve all of our problems. http://www.essind.com/Carpet/CC-Dil-chrt.htm#DC1
 
FilthyFletch

FilthyFletch

Mr I Can Do That For Half
lol and thats the long version of what i have always said. Dont use store bought 3% as it has bad additives that will hurt plants. Use 35% for helping keep clean and adding o2 to water and be careful as it will burn your skin if exsposed. Gloves are reccomended
 
Canobuss

Canobuss

Member
GreenThumbSucker said:
Here are my two cents worth of experience with Hydrogen Peroxide:

My experience with H2O2 is with 35% from a hydroponic store, which I have used for about 15 years.

If you have plants that drain very slowly in soil, H2o2 will cure the problem. Plants that take five days to dry out in soil will dry out in 24 hours with a teaspoon of H2o2 per gallon in the water. Plants in soil can take more hydrogen peroxide without burning than plants in a hydroponic system because of the soil buffer.

In Hydroponics, when plants are small, H2o2 must be used hesitantly because you will burn them otherwise. I use about 1 tablespoon per 20 gallons for smaller vegetating plants with no problems. Hydrogen peroxide burns the little jagged edges of the shade leaves and in some cases the tips of the leaves if you over do it.

When plants are bigger in Hydro, I use two tablespoons per 20 gallons of solution with no problems.

If you have problems with algae growth on your hydroton or rockwool, add hydrogen peroxide when you top off your solution during the week. I add two tablespoons (for bigger or flowering plants) every time I top off my solution. Whatever algae you have will go away in a few days. Make sure you stir it in well so they don't accidently get a strong dose of undiluted to their roots.

If you have a sealed system, like an aquamist, I would suggest adding it when you first change out your solution and again midway between solution changes.

Hydrogen peroxide is awesome for cleaning out and sterilizing the system upon flush. When I clean out the system, I fill a five gallon bucket with water and add 5 or 6 tbsp of H2o2. I put my pumps and hoses into this bucket and run them for about ten minutes to sterilize them. I then use this water with a sponge to wipe down the whole system and sterilize everything clean as a whistle. I then fill the system, add two tablespoons of 35% H2o2 (to a 20 gallon system) and run it for a few hours to clean and sterilize everything, then I add my nutes.

It is best to err on the side of caution with Hydrogen Peroxide. A little too much can burn the shit out of your plants. I use very small amounts and get very good results. 2 tablespoons is about 30 ML which doesn't seem like much in 20 gallons, but if your system smells like fish tank water, the next day it will smell fresh as a daisy.

As far as bacteria are concerned, I could care less about them. I'm not into organics and just use the GH flora series nutes and get stunning results with no bacteria in my system. Of course, you might feel otherwise.

Don't spill it on yourself. Ouch. It doesn't burn for a few minutes but it eventually makes your skin turn white and burns like hell.
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Thanks for this posting, i'm pretty sure your information just helped me hone in on what I did wrong with my grow. You see I was using the 3% h2o2 from cvs and sprayed my plant with it undiluted. 5 hrs later s*** hit the fan. I made a post with some pics if you care to take a look...anyway I burned the hell out of my plant and now I think I know why thanks to your posting...
 
GreenThumbSucker

GreenThumbSucker

Well-Known Member
Canobuss said:
Thanks for this posting, i'm pretty sure your information just helped me hone in on what I did wrong with my grow. You see I was using the 3% h2o2 from cvs and sprayed my plant with it undiluted. 5 hrs later s*** hit the fan. I made a post with some pics if you care to take a look...anyway I burned the hell out of my plant and now I think I know why thanks to your posting...
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I am now growing DWC. Using H2O2 religiously now.
 
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ozzy

Active Member
Im using a soiless mix called sunshine mix #4. I just bought some food grade 35% h202. I mix my nutrients in a 4 gallon pail for watering. Can anyone suggest a mixture rate? Would 6ml/gallon work or is that too strong?
 
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ozzy

Active Member
oh sorry about wrong forum but I did a search and this one caught my eye. Im using it as an additive to help kill my spider mite problem.
 
Yow420

Yow420

Member
ok i use h2o2 and find it useful. i use roughly 16 oz upon water change and 4-5 days later the other half of the 32 oz bottle(30 gal cooler) its a bit higher than recomended by others and have no dryness issues. i also have some of the worst water i have read about as far as starting ppm..


and for spider mites i spray one early in veg(2 weeks in)(not germination stage veg stage. let teh seeds become plants first) with a non toxic water based mite spray then as soon as i change lighting to start for bloom i spray again.. whenio spray i do notice some browning leaves in hydro(never had the issue in soil) but it seems to do teh trick as it kept the mites away and hasnt killed just dried them out a bit.. i don't spray direct on plants i spray into fans and let them carry the spary tot he plants..
 
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