DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes

madcatter

Active Member
I am going to make some tea up for my next grow.... I use House and Garden Root excellurator... great product but very expensive.... If I can brew my own teas way cheaper and keep my myco fungi's happy then I am gonna be real happy.... I grow in a dirt/coco/guano and castings mix.... the girls really like it... so I am gonna give this stuff a shot and see if the ladies are happy.... I may do a split run of 7 without and 8 with to see if I get a noticeable difference... if I do then it is gonna be switch over and go... great thread
 

smithmds

Active Member
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The above pics 22 hours into the tea brew, I'm at temperature of 24.6c with two air stones and a water pump in the bucket. It has a pH of 6.8 and a tds of 289 (.7 conversion ratio).

The pH has raised about a full point, from when it was straight RO water. Is this normal?

There is black substance on the inside of the bucket. Is this normal? It seems to be the particles that float on top of the bubbles and ends up sticking to the sides. Anyone had this happen before?
 

MRpoodle

Member
Hey all,

First of all, GREAT THREAD. Thank you for sharing this info.

I have a question about using non-chlorinated water to make the tea.... if tap water is my only option, will it ruin the effectiveness of the tea? Looks like i've contaminated everything in my veg room with slime (probably because i tried to add molasses directly to my dwc res.) and this thread has steered me away from trying enzyme products.

Thanks!
 

smithmds

Active Member
Hey all,

First of all, GREAT THREAD. Thank you for sharing this info.

I have a question about using non-chlorinated water to make the tea.... if tap water is my only option, will it ruin the effectiveness of the tea? Looks like i've contaminated everything in my veg room with slime (probably because i tried to add molasses directly to my dwc res.) and this thread has steered me away from trying enzyme products.

Thanks!

Chlorine evaporates over about 24 hours. Time various based upon temperature, surface air movement, and what not. If I were in your position, I would get a 50 gallon trash can and fill it with your tap water. Then get a water pump and try to create some surface water movement.

I have an RO unit going into a 50 gallon trash can. I have a pump in the bottom with a hose that comes back to the top of the trash can creating a fountain/waterfall type. This is great for aeration and would help you in getting that chlorine to evaporate.

I've also heard of Aquariums using dechlorinating products like this one. I've never used a dechlorinator though, so I can't say whether or not this is a good idea.
 

MRpoodle

Member
hmmm..... every time i look at this thread I have more questions and am ever more certain that I made it through my first grow with pure dumb luck! Not to mention, I feel ike i'm on a rollercoaster ride.... one day i'm on top of it and feeling confident, the next day i'm questioning the very idea of trying to grow anything successfully! AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHH!

so,
i'm growing dwc in 10 and 12 gallon bins.
I'm using foxfarm Big Grow in veg and Big Bloom in flower.
Recently have used some Cal/Mag and a root suppliment (can't remember the brand). Always careful to dilute everything with water before adding to the res.
I have a nice air pump with plenty of air stones.
Just started my second grow and sterilized everything first with water and bleach but apparently i still ended up with slime in my veg bin. (all the usual suspects... frothy foam in the res., clear to brownish slime on the roots...

so, is what i'm using for nutes considered "organic"?
can brew the tea and add it to my nutes?
 

Heisenberg

Well-Known Member
hmmm..... every time i look at this thread I have more questions and am ever more certain that I made it through my first grow with pure dumb luck! Not to mention, I feel ike i'm on a rollercoaster ride.... one day i'm on top of it and feeling confident, the next day i'm questioning the very idea of trying to grow anything successfully! AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHH!

so,
i'm growing dwc in 10 and 12 gallon bins.
I'm using foxfarm Big Grow in veg and Big Bloom in flower.
Recently have used some Cal/Mag and a root suppliment (can't remember the brand). Always careful to dilute everything with water before adding to the res.
I have a nice air pump with plenty of air stones.
Just started my second grow and sterilized everything first with water and bleach but apparently i still ended up with slime in my veg bin. (all the usual suspects... frothy foam in the res., clear to brownish slime on the roots...

so, is what i'm using for nutes considered "organic"?
can brew the tea and add it to my nutes?
"Grow Big organic based concentrate is a comprehensive blend of major, minor and micro nutrients."

"Foxfarm's classic 100% Natural & Organic Liquid Plant Food Big Bloom Concentrate, is manufactured using premium select earthworm castings, a high nutrient content bat guano, and other select organic ingredients."

I would switch to nutes better suited for DWC. Gen hydro's line is cheap and works great for DWC. Dutch master works even better. Don't get discouraged, things will come together eventually if you stick with it.
 

Heisenberg

Well-Known Member
View attachment 1377253View attachment 1377254View attachment 1377255View attachment 1377256

The above pics 22 hours into the tea brew, I'm at temperature of 24.6c with two air stones and a water pump in the bucket. It has a pH of 6.8 and a tds of 289 (.7 conversion ratio).

The pH has raised about a full point, from when it was straight RO water. Is this normal?

There is black substance on the inside of the bucket. Is this normal? It seems to be the particles that float on top of the bubbles and ends up sticking to the sides. Anyone had this happen before?
I honestly don't get black gunk on the sides, but different products could do different things. The ph being raised is probably from oxygenating the water.
 

MRpoodle

Member
I would switch to nutes better suited for DWC. Gen hydro's line is cheap and works great for DWC. Dutch master works even better. Don't get discouraged, things will come together eventually if you stick with it.
Do you have a recommendation? I've been reading up and looking for info elsewhere but I'd be interested in your recommendation. If you've posted it somewhere in this thread and I missed finding it, I apologize for making your repeat yourself. Thanks again for the help.
 

smithmds

Active Member
I honestly don't get black gunk on the sides, but different products could do different things. The ph being raised is probably from oxygenating the water.
Is there any chance the dark stuff is from bad bacteria? (or whatever stuff is producing that brown slime algae) I don't know how any bad bacteria could thrive in that bucket
 

MRpoodle

Member
Do you have a recommendation? I've been reading up and looking for info elsewhere but I'd be interested in your recommendation. If you've posted it somewhere in this thread and I missed finding it, I apologize for making your repeat yourself. Thanks again for the help.
Found your post in the thread about what nutes you're using.... will check into new nutes.
 

Heisenberg

Well-Known Member
Do you have a recommendation? I've been reading up and looking for info elsewhere but I'd be interested in your recommendation. If you've posted it somewhere in this thread and I missed finding it, I apologize for making your repeat yourself. Thanks again for the help.
Dutch master 'advance' for veg, no booster. For bud, Dutch Master 'gold' with Add.27, silica is optional. I highly recommend the liquid light + saturatior foliar sprays no matter what nutes you use.

Is there any chance the dark stuff is from bad bacteria? (or whatever stuff is producing that brown slime algae) I don't know how any bad bacteria could thrive in that bucket
If you have no bad smells then I wouldn't worry.
 

MRpoodle

Member
Heisenberg.... Thank you!
gonna hit up the hydro store later today and pick up some new nutes.

Anyone need a half empty(full) bottle of Foxfarm Big Bloom? ;)
 

poindexterous

Active Member
Dutch master 'advance' for veg, no booster. For bud, Dutch Master 'gold' with Add.27, silica is optional. I highly recommend the liquid light + saturatior foliar sprays no matter what nutes you use.
Hey Heisenberg, you've got me curious about Dutch Master products. What do you know about their Add.27 ? I read what's on their site, but cytoplasmic streaming and protein based chelating are new terms to me?
 

Heisenberg

Well-Known Member
What they are suggesting is: It makes nutrient uptake a more smooth and easy process for the plant, which usually means the plant eats more. Also a plant can slow down eating or stop all together for a variety of reasons, such as stress or improper nute balance, ect. Sometimes maybe for just 5 minutes, other times hours. Add.27 will encourage the plant to continue eating like normal during these times. One of the things it does is coat minerals with a chelating agent. Think of a chelating agent as a sort of claw that latches onto the nutrients and carries it along. The plant can more easily uptake the chelated mineral so, basically it can eat more, faster. ( Not to be confused with a different type of chelating agent, which is meant to remove minerals from the bucket/plant.) Add.27 also encourages the plant to store little reserves of energy at the base of the leaves. If food becomes temporarily unavailable from the roots for whatever reason, the plant has plenty in reserve.

Liquid light is similar. In addition to supplying nutrients it also encourages the stomata to stay fully open. Stomata are like little mouths on the surface of the leaves that the plant uses to breath. The more efficiently a plant can breath, the more photosynthesis can take place. The saturator additive acts as a kind of chelating and wetting agent for the spray. Normally water beads and rolls off a leaf. Saturator will cause it to spread out and penetrate the surface. I only have a small garden, but I bought my 1 liter bottles 11 months ago. I spray every third day up until 3 weeks into bud. My bottle of LL is still 3/4 full, the saturator is a bit lower cos I use it for other sprays a well. So they are very economical. The results will speak for themselves. Be careful to mix as directed. Too much LL is counter productive.

Their reverse spray is also excellent. It wont do much for a true hermie, but plants that have developed male parts in response to stress are not true hermies. As long as the stress is corrected (light leaks, ect) reverse will cause the plant to revert to female, and cause any male parts to dry up and fall off.

I do not care for their rooting gel. It contains no artificial hormones and simply tries it's best to encourage natural rooting. For an accomplished cloner this is probably a fine product, but I personally prefer the help of rooting hormones. The APS spray is great for keeping clones healthy until they root, but it's optional. Again for an experienced cloner it is probably great, but I have better luck using wilt spray.

All DM products have an indefinite shelf life. It seems some hydro shops like to hike up the price for DM products. Shop around, they really aren't that expensive. My local shop wants $110 for the LL+Saturator combo, I got mine online for $60.
 

MRpoodle

Member
I picked up the DM Advanced A/B, Liquid Light, Saturator and Zone.

I went with the Zone because making a tea is not something I can do right at this moment and I was concerned about continuing with Bush Doctor Kangaroots organic root inoculant in a DWC environment. When I have the time and space, I'm going to start brewing some of Heisenberg's tea and try that in place of the Zone.

My res in the flower space looks good so i'm going to stick with the Fox Farm nutes in there until I have to change out my Res. next week and then I'll start with the DM Gold.
I've already applied my first spraying of the LL/Sat.
Looking forward to some nicer results with this second grow.
 

Heisenberg

Well-Known Member
I picked up the DM Advanced A/B, Liquid Light, Saturator and Zone.

I went with the Zone because making a tea is not something I can do right at this moment and I was concerned about continuing with Bush Doctor Kangaroots organic root inoculant in a DWC environment. When I have the time and space, I'm going to start brewing some of Heisenberg's tea and try that in place of the Zone.

My res in the flower space looks good so i'm going to stick with the Fox Farm nutes in there until I have to change out my Res. next week and then I'll start with the DM Gold.
I've already applied my first spraying of the LL/Sat.
Looking forward to some nicer results with this second grow.
Just remember Zone is not compatible with organics. Also, if you have brown slime algae then Zone wont stop it. It does however do a pretty good job at preventing it. So if you are slime free i'd say the zone + gold nutes should work well. If not, you always have the option of making tea.
 

smithmds

Active Member
Yo heisenberg, Cool thread bro
I'm currently putting his tea to test (i'm using sub cultures b and M though, which should work in lieu), in the last 4 days I've been severely attacked by this brown algae slime. About 2 hours ago I put the tea in after its 48 hour mix. If it works, I'll know within the next 24-36 hours. The real test will most likely be how well I did getting the environment sanitized! I'm really hoping it does as my ladies are starving for oxygen and wilting bad. Daily I'm rinsing them off but it but the brown algae slime is a real phucker

His thread though has given me hope and he's given out lots of really good advice.
 
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